3.0 headers/ y-pipe on a 3.5?
01-26-2010, 12:08 AM
#201
You mean that butchering style installation....with the OBX? Yeah my Cattman headers were relatively easy and fit without butchering up any other items other than my O2 sensor harness...Anyway I guess some ppl don't mind butchering up their car for some inexpensive performance....you know the saying ...Different strokes for Different folks or is it????? Different folks & different copes often strive for different lopes, but beware of that hand of soap, cause it'll make you really wanna stroke!!!!!
01-26-2010, 06:36 AM
#202
You mean that butchering style installation....with the OBX? Yeah my Cattman headers were relatively easy and fit without butchering up any other items other than my O2 sensor harness...Anyway I guess some ppl don't mind butchering up their car for some inexpensive performance....you know the saying ...Different strokes for Different folks or is it????? Different folks & different copes often strive for different lopes, but beware of that hand of soap, cause it'll make you really wanna stroke!!!!!
01-26-2010, 07:00 AM
#204
I know, but I like the idea of a three-piece setup better than a two piece. It'll be easier if I ever have to remove the headers in the future to do any kind of work...
01-26-2010, 08:33 AM
#205
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That little concession isn't worth 400 dollars though. You could buy a set of OBX and pay 350 to have them installed while still paying less than cattman's headers if you don't want to install them yourself. You are still getting OBX instead of Cattman, though, and I wouldn't waste all that money on having someone do it.
If OBX had been available when I bought my headers, I would probably have gotten those instead then had a new Y-pipe built at the local mandrel bender with 3" piping and a comfortably big flex section while still spending less than my headers cost new. Not that I regret what I have.
01-26-2010, 08:51 AM
#207
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I'm going to have mine modified sometime this spring. Starting with the 2-1 collector on the Y-pipe, it will be changed to 3" with a cutout mounted at the nearest possible point. I'm fairly certain I will see gains on nitrous, not 100% sure on N/A but since it's proven we gain on 3" cat-backs, there will probably be something from it (with cutout open).
01-26-2010, 09:09 AM
#209
I'm going to have mine modified sometime this spring. Starting with the 2-1 collector on the Y-pipe, it will be changed to 3" with a cutout mounted at the nearest possible point. I'm fairly certain I will see gains on nitrous, not 100% sure on N/A but since it's proven we gain on 3" cat-backs, there will probably be something from it (with cutout open).
01-26-2010, 09:13 AM
#211
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haha, you completely misread my post maybe. Do you not realize that ALL of my PB and track vids are with open Y-pipe? I am talking about gains going from 2.5" to 3" on the Y-pipe, with open Y-pipe/Cutout being an obvious given in both cases.
01-26-2010, 09:16 AM
#212
I just got done watching one of your vids too! Wow, reading > me this morning.
01-26-2010, 09:16 AM
#213
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Hope you can muffle it, that ish is going to be loud.
RJ in raleigh quoted me about 1,000 to do a true dual setup starting with modifying the Y-pipe to become an X-pipe. Kinda pricey, but it would sound cool and make decent power.
If I was going all out like that, though, I would also have him hack up my headers and redesign the primaries to be about 30-32" long and true duals from there out. I could care less about ground clearance in exchange for REAL long tube headers.
RJ in raleigh quoted me about 1,000 to do a true dual setup starting with modifying the Y-pipe to become an X-pipe. Kinda pricey, but it would sound cool and make decent power.
If I was going all out like that, though, I would also have him hack up my headers and redesign the primaries to be about 30-32" long and true duals from there out. I could care less about ground clearance in exchange for REAL long tube headers.
01-26-2010, 09:20 AM
#214
Hope you can muffle it, that ish is going to be loud.
RJ in raleigh quoted me about 1,000 to do a true dual setup starting with modifying the Y-pipe to become an X-pipe. Kinda pricey, but it would sound cool and make decent power.
If I was going all out like that, though, I would also have him hack up my headers and redesign the primaries to be about 30-32" long and true duals from there out. I could care less about ground clearance in exchange for REAL long tube headers.
RJ in raleigh quoted me about 1,000 to do a true dual setup starting with modifying the Y-pipe to become an X-pipe. Kinda pricey, but it would sound cool and make decent power.
If I was going all out like that, though, I would also have him hack up my headers and redesign the primaries to be about 30-32" long and true duals from there out. I could care less about ground clearance in exchange for REAL long tube headers.
but yea im looking into resonators and glasspacks, going to need a few of them
01-26-2010, 10:50 AM
#216
Once the headers are on, it is like 10 times easier to take them off and put them back on because all of the bolts and such are so much more accessible because the stock manifolds and heat shield is off.
You can get a wrench around there easier by going in between the tubes and that sort of thing.
You can get a wrench around there easier by going in between the tubes and that sort of thing.
01-26-2010, 11:06 AM
#218
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I usually let it cool down before sticking my hands near the hot metal 
Although when I'm at the track and I must disconnect my Y-pipe, I don't have that luxury. The cattman part is just warm to the touch in 5-10 minutes sitting (go go stainless), but the mild steel section with the resonator I have that bolted up to holds heat for freakin' hours. I've burned my hand/elbow/arm quite a few times because of that.
Although when I'm at the track and I must disconnect my Y-pipe, I don't have that luxury. The cattman part is just warm to the touch in 5-10 minutes sitting (go go stainless), but the mild steel section with the resonator I have that bolted up to holds heat for freakin' hours. I've burned my hand/elbow/arm quite a few times because of that.
01-26-2010, 01:28 PM
#219
The instal of obx2 really isn't that hard. It's not the right tools you need with those headers it's the right mind. Take a step back and take a look at it. I helped a bud with his and deinstallation was hell of course, but my buddy was stuck on getting the y pipe to fit the front header for 4 days fighting with it. I literally looked at it for 5 minutes, grabbed a jack, jacked it up(you put some pressure, don't be afraid nothing's going to break) and than line them up and tighten, no leaks at all after 2 tries. If you're reffering to anything else I don't remember running into any other problems. Drop the cross member also, makes the rear header instal tons easier.
01-26-2010, 01:29 PM
#220
Once the headers are on, it is like 10 times easier to take them off and put them back on because all of the bolts and such are so much more accessible because the stock manifolds and heat shield is off.
You can get a wrench around there easier by going in between the tubes and that sort of thing.
You can get a wrench around there easier by going in between the tubes and that sort of thing.
01-26-2010, 01:59 PM
#221
The instal of obx2 really isn't that hard. It's not the right tools you need with those headers it's the right mind. Take a step back and take a look at it. I helped a bud with his and deinstallation was hell of course, but my buddy was stuck on getting the y pipe to fit the front header for 4 days fighting with it. I literally looked at it for 5 minutes, grabbed a jack, jacked it up(you put some pressure, don't be afraid nothing's going to break) and than line them up and tighten, no leaks at all after 2 tries. If you're reffering to anything else I don't remember running into any other problems. Drop the cross member also, makes the rear header instal tons easier.
01-26-2010, 02:41 PM
#222
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Instead of dropping the crossmember, I'm just going to take an air chisel and beat the **** out of the engine mount cover so that I have enough room to move the headers up. If I have to grind on the crossmember to make it clear for the flex section, I'll do that later. I just want to get the car running for now.
01-26-2010, 04:28 PM
#225
LOL, EXACTLY, someoens going to post a thread soon claiming how they didn't drop the cross members and how the fitment sucks because they can't drop it. lmao. Anyays as stated above, only break **** if you HAVE TOO and it won't hurt your car. Spend the 2 minutes removing the long bolts in the front and rear motor mount than the 4 bolts holding the crossmember up. Do it right dude, and get it done with the first time. It'll give tons more room.
01-26-2010, 04:30 PM
#226
drop the cm
01-26-2010, 04:57 PM
#229
01-26-2010, 08:38 PM
#231
(pom pom pooom) lls
01-26-2010, 11:36 PM
#233
So uh...who wants to help me out?
Finally got them in. Put everything back together. Took it on a test drive, and had an exhaust leak. The thing is, as I drove further, it got louder.
Any help? Was it just getting louder because things were getting warm, or because the manifold might be working itself loose? Or cracked...?
I'm going to try and get under the car tomorrow and see if I can see anything...just my luck that it's the rear manifold, too.
Finally got them in. Put everything back together. Took it on a test drive, and had an exhaust leak. The thing is, as I drove further, it got louder.
Any help? Was it just getting louder because things were getting warm, or because the manifold might be working itself loose? Or cracked...?
I'm going to try and get under the car tomorrow and see if I can see anything...just my luck that it's the rear manifold, too.
01-27-2010, 05:27 AM
#235
You can't "spot" an exhaust leak by just listening to it - you may not be used to the sound yet. Have someone rev it while you look around to see if dust is blown off the ground or use a piece of paper to locate any moving air. Like Hustle said, tighten the hell out of everything again (make sure nothing is cross threaded first). Also check your gaskets and make sure all the flanges are lined up properly.
01-27-2010, 10:35 AM
#236
You can't "spot" an exhaust leak by just listening to it - you may not be used to the sound yet. Have someone rev it while you look around to see if dust is blown off the ground or use a piece of paper to locate any moving air. Like Hustle said, tighten the hell out of everything again (make sure nothing is cross threaded first). Also check your gaskets and make sure all the flanges are lined up properly.
01-27-2010, 11:02 AM
#237
Also I hope you got new better gaskets. I went to autozone and they didn't have any that fit my old stockers but I got lucky and he pulled one out and tested it and it fit. Was from a chrystler 300, and it was a serious heavy duty gasket haha, beat the stock one by 50*. I'd reccomend it to anyone getting headers.
I'm taking my car down to my buddy's exhaust shop in about an hour to find out why my Max sounds like an airplane. I have a sneaking suspicion one of my O2 sensors wiggled loose...
As far as "spotting" an exhaust leak, I've heard of introducing a bit of ATF into the fuel somehow (my guess is through the TB), plugging up the muffler a bit, and watching for white smoke. Yes, no?
01-27-2010, 02:27 PM
#238
no... you can 1... have someone cover the muffler tip and you feel the flanges for air, 2 do like puppet said, or just re tighten your o2 sensors up, if those were losse youd probebly feel a decent performance bog
01-27-2010, 02:54 PM
#239
Final question. Anyone with OBX notice a ticking noise? I can't decide if it's a small leak or the valve train I hear...