Rochester, I have the Racingline fstb as well, did you/do you have issues w/ the Racingline logo rubbing off?

I like the logo but it seems to be rubbing on the black thermal shield that's attached underneath the hood.

 

No, my bar arrived without any decal stuck to it, and I like it that way. I put the decal on the inner fender lip. RACINGLING on one side, and PROGRESS on the other.

 

Okay I see. It actually does look cleaner that way (wish mine came like that). I think I might just rub the rest of the logo out.

Thanks

 

The logo on my Racingline FSTB rubs as well, but I take a pic and hope it comes out pretty, that's how I make mine pretty .

 

The rubbing is caused by a plastic grommet that is holding the driver side wiper fluid tubing, if you reach up from behind the engine compartment insulation cover you will locate it. I simply pulled the grommet free which solved two issues, the rubbing off of the sticker as well as the pinching off of the windshield washer fluid from reaching the spray nozzle.

 

Hmm, will check that out next time.

 

Get rid of all that yellow, and your bay would look pretty darn good.

Merlot is such a great color on our cars.

 

I would have to agree with Rochester on this one and get rid of that yellow IMO. Made a huge difference in my car plus it's easy and cheap lol. How did you paint the V6 on the cover, I think that looks a lot better.

 

Yeah, I have been thinking of painting the yellow caps Merlot and the engine cover is not painted, it's off a Nissan Murano.

 

I like that alot. Do you have the part number or year?

 

Went to go order it, and of course the polished is out of stock. Hopefully they will restock it soon.

 

Nissan Murano 02-07, part # 140418J100, pricey, but at least the black comes out perfect.

 

At that price, I am going to attempt to paint the letters somehow and see how it turns out ...If I mess it up, then I have a reason to spend that lol..Thank you for the part number though just in case...

I ordered my NWP VIAS block plate though. Will be installed next week.

 

Oh....sweet. I took my FSTB off because of this.......thanks for the quick fix!

Now I just have to figure out how to get the smeared sticker off......

 

Nice, going to install my VIAS block plate most likely this weekend, here is a sneak peak of it....(Body color matched).

 

Razor blade and some Goo Gone

 

Ooo-o-o-o-o!

I like where this is going.

 

Installed VIAS block plate. Did not lose any power at low RPM and can't tell much of a difference at high. It looks a hole lot prettier though. Will have pictures next week waiting on my cover emblem.

Rochester, or anyone that would know, earlier when we were talking about the movement of the drop-resistor, I said I did not feel a difference moving it under the driver side fuse box. Well, now I have been noticing something with the auto shift and not sure when it started. When I go WOT the shift from 1st to 2nd is little strange. I read up on hard shifting when removing the DR but it doesnt seem like a hard shift, or atleast how they were describing it as shaking the car and such. With the CAI, I can clearly hear that when it is about to hit the limiter it quiets down a bit and the RPM drops a small amount then finally shifts. The actual shift itself is pretty smooth, and it picks right back up in the next gear. The thing is, sometimes it shifts completely normal.
Has anyone ever heard of a situation like this? If it could be the drop resistor, what is the purpose of it being mounted to the driver side strut tower? I searched multiple times trying to find this and had no luck.

On a better note, I just ordered my FSTB today.

 

In all likelihood, it's mounted there to support a manufacturing efficiency on the assembly line.

You might want to start a new thread with your DR concerns, better to get people who can help you.

 

Updated pics, installed the BOP, scratched the paint on it a couple times reinstalling that damn plastic wire cover, so me being as ocd and picky as I am, I have a couple spares that I'll be painting again.

 

That looks sweet...if my car wasnt silver I would prob do the same thing.

 

It seems kind of bright red, but in all likelihood the contrast is due to faded red in the engine bay, and not the fault of the BOP. Overall, I like it. I particularly like the way it ties in with the oil cap and the battery cap. Nice.

Understand, those nickle-plated M8 flange bolts will tarnish pretty heavily, and pretty quick. You may want to look into some SS or Titanium bolts, since you're calling such attention to the BOP.

BTW, you can disconnect that vacuum hose and cap it.

How about going red on the dipstick handle, then black on the yellow reservoir caps?

Here's another tip: that large AC coolant line will polish to a chrome-like shine with a little metal polish.

I see the scratch. Bummer. Must be driving you nuts.

 

Good advice, I've seen all the bolts you have in your engine bay, they are nice, the caps will go from Yellow to Merlot once I get a change, I don't know about the dipstick, maybe I can find one with a black handle.

 

Home Depot... buy a spray can of PlastiDip.

 

Ehh, I have a full can of Plastidip, not to fond on how it comes out, I did my grille and it looks Graphite/Greyish, not really black.

 

Agreed. All the love on the Org for PlastiDip, and personally I don't get it.

Before I purchased the chrome dipstick cover from ZeeToys, I had painted my dipstick with simple "Plastic" Spraypaint from the hardware store. It looks absolutely fine.



Of course, the shiny cover looks better, IMO.

 

Even if it were grayish, it would basically blend in instead of standing out like the yellow IMO. I painted mine black and if you look in the pictures on the previous page, you can barely see it.

Rochester, your talking about the only hose right above the cover by the BOP right? I think I remember seeing a post that you deleted the entire vacuum or something like that? What exactly does this do, it is not in the what is this on my 5th gen thread..

 

I like Rochesters dip stick(no homo), It's actually black, not plastidip black, and I think that vacuum line you have to cap it out on your own.

 

That line is what "feeds" vacuum pressure stored in that coke-can size canister bolted to the right-front of your UIM. It's a vacuum tank. The negative pressure inside that tank is what's used to actuate the lever in the VIAS butterfly valve that you removed when you installed the BOP. It's activated by the VIAS solenoid... also bolted to your UIM.

It's a stupidly elaborate design of disparate components for something so simple. To me, it feels like an engineering after-thought.

You can delete the tank, and cap the vacuum lead. But keep the solenoid plugged in to avoid a CEL.

 

I'm just gonna leave this one right here.

 

I knew I should of left a "no homo" next it for those immature minds. Will edit

 

With the NWP plate:




And this is my headlight that I can not get the fog off of. I tried Mothers and 3M and nothing will work. The lens itself looks somewhat clear and feels completely smooth, but with the light on or looking at it from an angle even if its off, you can see that the lens is not that clear.


I dont know what to do with the light. I read all the write-ups on how to clean them and none of it works for my lights. Although, my hole family got clean headlights out of the deal because I bought all the damn cleaners!! It worked on theirs and not mine!!!


The FSTB and new cover logo are on their way though.

 

Ooh pretty!

 

I just went throung everysingle page. I have a long way to go before I can post my bay on here.

 

Welcome to the Org.

 

Mine doesn't show in pics (probably too light) but pictures do 'lie' sometimes

Nice looking bay. (I can't wait to change my water pipes)

I gotta check that out. I thought it was rubbing on the heat sheet (or whatever that black thermal paper attached underneath the hood is).

I wish I had known sooner but I may just delete the logo and rock it clean like Roch (even though his came that way)

Bug/tar remover might help.

 

I just put on my fstb...for some reason the driver side hood is stuck up a litte bit. Its from the strut bar i just dont no why. I have it all tightened down and the strut bar to the actual brackets are as low as they can go. I loosened those up and made sure they couldnt go any lower. Any ideas? :-/

 

The FSTB on our 03's doesn't have much room between it and the hood its self. Tell me does your driver side windshield washer spray nozzle work when the hood is closed? ( I'll almost bet it doesn't) there is a grommet that the tubing runs through and it is being squashed by the pressure of the FSTB pressing against the hood so you get the idea just how tight its fitment is. The grommet I am describing is located just up under the insulation cover of the hood and it is made of a hard plastic about 1/2" to 5/8" in order to hold the fluid line. So when you consider the depth of this grommet and then the thickness of the insulation being restricted by the FSTB you can then understand how it may displace the hood a slight bit.

 

For your headlights you gotta wet sand them. Plenty of DIY on youtube. Basically use like 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit sand paper, then use a polishing compound, then use plastic-X and they should come out good.

 

I saw that this grommet is what causes the rubbing off of the logo but if I am looking at the right grommet, it doesnt seem even close to the logo. So I can just remove this grommet and it should let the hood close normal and prevent the rubbing off of the logo? I just leave the fluid line loose behind the insulation?