Mine doesn't on the two-step either, only at WOT on the rev limiter, and much more often when under load.

 

perfect.

 

this thread is interesting..

 

If it was perfect, it would be faster.. and not FWD

 

its the perfect grocery getter

hows your project car coming along

 

Well I got it all stripped down and cleaned up. However, one thing always bothered me about the car; the sunroof. As the weeks passed, I found myself gazing at it every time I went outside to work on the car. When I say gazing at it, I mean with hatred and disgust. It finally built up to the point that I realized I am simply not willing to start with a car that isn't 'perfect' for the project. So I'm scrapping the car. I'll be starting over with either another FC, a FD, or a 1995 S14 for the exact same swap/plans when I find the right one. Sunroof-less and 5 lug to start with, preferably with no major body work needed...

You're right... the maxima is a pretty awesome grocery getter, and good in bad weather. It also sounds pretty cool

 

dang that much hatred for the sunroof huh lol.. i vote for the S14

 

I would be quite happy with a '95 S14 and eventually do a Kouki front end swap after everything else is done. A 93-95 FD RX-7 would be nice too but more expensive and slightly heavier.

 

Yes Innovate has a new wifi OBD2 plug in that reads all that info and an Iphone/Ipod can be used as the display interface...real cool shi+.....

http://www.titanmotorsports.com/inotobwiin.html

 

since were all sharing...

 

DEK Injectors are actually the same as 350z/g35 injectors. They both flow 335cc at 3.5 bar.

The VQ35 Maxima however, has smaller injectors than both the DEK Maxima and 350z/g35.

VQ30DE injectors 259cc @ 3.0 BAR
VQ30DE-K injectors 290cc @ 3.0 BAR (FBJC100)
VQ35DE (Maxima) injectors 315cc @ 3.5 BAR (FBJC101)
VQ35DE (350Z) injectors 335cc @ 3.5 BAR (FBJC100)

I am actually in the process of putting 2003 Mustang Cobra 470cc injectors in my 02. I'll post a thread when I'm done for who ever cares.

 

What do you need so much flow for?

 

please do...

would like to know the flow rate on the SER (altima) although I believe they share the 335cc of the Z..

 

^^ maybe a bigger MAF in his future??

 

I have a bigger MAF also.

The DEK injectors are probably good for 330-350whp on stock fuel pressure...

 

More E-peen flaunting. You can't see the speedo in this one, but it goes 0-85 pretty quickly

 

And I thought I was the ziptie master. I would have looked at that and said, EF THIS!


What wheel and tire combo did you have there? That was an awsome launch!
I'm sure some driving skill had something to do with it too.

 

im on my 3rd one

 

^ me too

 

I like!

Is that a 4 cylinder. JK


so 350z injectors will work fine but run at a higher bar? what about if i set the dek's to 3.5 bar
I knew this was coming. Go back to your Jaypee thread !
Auto FTW.

 

lol

 

Fun starts at 1:35

 

did i hear some no lift shifting?

 

I had a 2 hour drive home and sure as hell wasn't paying for a tow bill. KingJames had a bunch of zipties in his car because that's how he rolls, so I went to town with them. I figured that if I put enough of them on from every angle holding it together, I could granny shift it until I got it replaced. It worked

Hoosier 225/50/15 "DOT" drag radials on 15" 4th gen sawblades. I would have went with slicks again, but these are legal for the street class at Maxus. Shaved stock brake calipers to fit the wheels. They were dead hooking, and my clutch is beastly... but I am so afraid of breaking an axle now. Has definitely pussified my launching.

Although that was my best run of the night due to the great launch, I screwed up on the second gear shift. I looked up at the board and saw a 1.83 '60 foot just before the top of 1st and had a moment, then instinctively lift shifted into second gear then got 3rd right. This one was about perfect for shifting, but has a 1.986 '60 foot which gave me a 8.4


Since I got the "updated" 6th gen bracket, I haven't broken another one.... yet...and I shift the **** out of it. Here's a pic of it, you can see where the break point looks much better reinforced.



DEK injectors on 3.5 bar (our stock fuel pressure) are 335CC. Same as the 350z injectors. They seem to be the same part number actually...

I saw this on your youtube channel, and was cursing you for the random boring driving around. Should have gotten rid of the beginning, lol. Windows movie maker is free and easy, lets you do that kinda stuff.

 

Yep. No lift shifting with a ceramic clutch... good stuff. I only do that a few times a year, can't be too good for the transmission.

 

Didn't wanna lose compression, Movie Maker tends to screw up a decent quality video.

 

I make most of my videos 1080p with movie maker. You just have to select the highest settings when compiling the video (there are tons).

edit: the best part of the video is where you turn off the radio. That was awesome.

 

I'm doing a turbo build.

BTW, how the hell do you trap so high in the quarter...I'm impressed.

You are trapping at like 107 while supercharged 06+ SI's trap at like 108 lol.

 

These cars can make as much power NA and weigh similar to 06+ supercharged SIs, lol!

I guess it's just a culmination of mods working together right and a TON of practice shifting this transmission. I did a test one day at piedmont of lift shifting vs power shifting and was picking up 1-2 MPH in the 1/8th...

That 107.48 trap was on a 84.52 1/8th mile trap with a 0ishDA full weight over a year ago now... I recently trapped 85.81 in the 1/8th on a 1288 DA with a better tune, tires, new clutch/flywheel, and more general "refinement" to my mod list.

Really hoping to finally tune this thing on a dyno (and compare SSIM vs vias delete once and for all in the process), then hit the track this spring on a sub 0 DA day with full track prep. A 109 trap would be amazing...

When I first got the car stock, I was pulling 14.3-14.4s at 95-96. With intake, SSIM, headers/Ypipe (stock catback), I was stuck on 14.0s at 99-101 for 8+ months. Unbolting the cat-back from the Y-pipe picked up another 3 MPH, then whole bunch of small mods, and a home-brew street/track UTEC tune later and the 107.5 from last year. This is all street tires stuff, mind you. I have pulled 13.0X multiple times on my slicks that I sold off, at anywhere from 103-106 with 83ish 1/8th mile traps. Now I have Hoosier drag radials that seem to hook just as good, but don't eat my trap speed...

I think I even have slips from when it was stock. Most of the 14.0@99-101 phase slips are gone and never made it onto my photobucket.

Bone stock in around May 2008 (#27):


Winter of 09 on street tires (#77)

 

Dear Perkman,

I have officially derailed and taken over your thread.

Thanks,

 

big fan of no lift shifting myself, except when spraying of course..

was trying to figure out a way to cut the nitrous between shifts with my controller.

hopefully i can get on this numbers race soon enough

also: how much larger are the 6th gen brakes than the 5.5?? how much did u have to shave?

 

Set the window switch about 200-500 rpms before you shift. If it's set at just the right RPM, you will feel the nitrous cut as your signal to slam in the clutch pedal, then no lift seamlessly, and the nitrous will cut back in immediately when the engine rev matches. That is how I was shifting on my nitrous runs at the track, except my WOT switch was a manual switch on the gas pedal that was calibrated to disengage (with an audible click) around a .10 of an inch off the floor, so I could just BARELY lift the gas pedal and still 90-95% shift without depending 100% on the window switch because of my slipping clutch at the time.

 

i did think about that and though at the time it seemed risky now it does not... lol..

 

As long as your rev limiter is set somewhere around 500-600 RPMs higher than the window switch, I would feel confident with WOT shifting. Although an ignition cut rev limiter like the N2MB would be MUCH SAFER for peace of mind. That way, if you do push in the clutch before the nitrous stops spraying, and it shoots to the rev limiter before the solenoids can quit flowing, you will have an ignition cut and fuel still spraying so there won't be ANY lean spike. If anything, a rich spike as you shift into the next gear with some loud exhaust pops and possibly flames.

 

carry on sparks I hand over the keys.

 

Wish I could install the 00-01 11" rotors so I could experiment with some 3rd gen 15" sawblades since I have an auto.....but the weird thing is with my lightweight 18" wheels, I have a hard time hooking up with more than half throttle out the hole/off the line....and on the street there usually a break the tires loose if I roll into the throttle after leaving the line b4 the shift into 2nd gear.....But I guess the gearing would give my motor more leverage w/15" wheels and keep the rpm's up in the power producing powerband longer and higher trap speeds....Sparks you're a geek when it comes to this crap....very scientific....LOL!

 

What street tires are you using? I've been running 245/40/18 general exclaim UHPs on the front (1/2 the price of dunlop star specs) and sporadically hook through most of first, hook hard into second if I don't no-lift, then generally don't run into traction problems again. When it's really cold out (especially below freezing), I'll spin through third... but that's a different story. Regardless my point was that I have shorter gearing and can usually hook on street tires (2.0s at the track), you may be able to remedy it with a difference choice next tire change

With 15" wheels, you can go with bigger sidewalls than you have now, while still using 22-24" total diameter tires for the gearing gains. You gotta think that stock auto third gear goes out to like 130 mph. If you can get that closer to 110-115mph through gearing (smaller tires), you will have much better gearing all the way down the track without any extra shifts and be higher in the meat of the powerband when you hit the end of the track.

Yeah I admit it, I'm a total geek about it... The number crunching type of stuff that normally drives people crazy is what I enjoy doing in my spare time. Wait until I get dyno graphs to play with

 

how much larger are the 6th gen brakes than the 5.5?? how much did u have to shave?

 

6th gen brakes are def bigger. It wasn't an even amount shaved, at the worst part I took off around 1/8" which gave the wheels some breathing room incase they flex a little.

 

We're on the same page regarding the gearing/leverage with the smaller wheels.....But I'm running 6th Gen brakes which would allow anyting smaller than a 17" rim to fit and 18" rims that weigh in @ 17 lbs each wearing the same size tire 245/40/18 (Nitto Extreme 555)!