Hey all,
so the wife was literally running out to the grocery store this afternoon, jumped on the highway and made it about 4 miles before the car basically kicked into limp mode.
couldnt go much over 40mph/2500rpms. it bucked a bit (as per her account)
2001 GLE 5AT w/180k (well maintained by me), SES has been on for about 5k (bank 2 sensor 1)

i immediately started thinking MAF-i'm still thinking this.
now i've also been feeling the batt is due for replacement (had the car over 5 years and never replaced it). i've noticed the headlights are a bit dim lately, corrosion on the terminals etc.

she had pulled off and shut down. i had her start it again (fine) and drive (also fine). she's going to park it and hang out at a friends for now-i'm going to go check it out on my break here shortly.

I'll probably take a batt along (test the old one prior to pulling) and disconnect for a bit then re-connect and see where we're at.

anyone have any other thoughts or input?

thank you very much!

-B

 

Happened to me once about a year ago. Was told that it could be a coil going bad, but the problem never came back.

 

Does sound like the charging system, possibly a weak battery but don't rule out the alternator as well the loss of engine power kind of points to that. I would have the complete charging system check for weakness, as for the MAF if you have a fellow member near by you could just swap in his MAF for testing purposes.

 

So it seems like it happened once it got warmed up or once it got over about 60mph? Did she say it was overheating? Ive never heard of a dead battery causing it to go into limp mode. What causes this is something catastrophic that if you continued at normal operation with the problem then you could destroy your engine so the car goes into limp mode to allow you to get home to to a shop

 

well, i'd imagine it was probably near operating temp-she said the gauge was normal, no abnormal lights or anything of that nature. I replaced the rad around thanksgiving (it blew up). she made it down to her sisters house no problem.
I agree, the batt needs tested if not just outright replaced..as i said its old and due. esp with colder weather ahead.

i told her to either stay there or go home the back road (no highway speeds)-its about 11 miles home at around 35mph.

Oh, and Ghost-i'm going to go home and clean the maf first..

 

Pull your OBD2 codes.....clean your cam and crank sensors, aqlong with your MAF sensor while you're @ it! I would inspect your grounds, cleaniness and tightness and belt tension.....Measure your batt Volt then your altenator voltage output! good luck

 

Ok, to update...

checked old batt, its shot. replaced.
with batt out, pulled MAF and cleaned then replaced. waited about another hr and put new batt in. fired her up. barely starts and sputters all over the place. cant hold idle at all. smells rich (in exhaust).

so i complete the Idle Air Volume Relearn-5 seconds after reconnecting TPS sensor the idle regulates to normal. But..it will NOT rev beyond 2400RPM

Shut car off-restart. Idle is again all over the place and car barely starts. run the IAVL again...Idle regulates but again wont go over 2400. This cycle continued 3 or 4 times. i then disconnected batt for over another hr (its now 8pm) and im literally stuck here.

I'm guessing either ECU issue or TPS? or MAF is actually bad. Anybody?

I greatly appreciate all your help!
-B

 

@Cmax - i agree, i really need to see if there is anything other than the O2 sensor code at this point as im positive there is.
Cam and Crank sensors...i'll have to look up these locations-thank you.

 

ok, got the diagrams/locations of both(all 3) sensors-i figured they were in different places than on my 3.5. also grabbed the FSM for testing.

its gonna be a chilly night on the ground under the Max, i can feel it.

 

I went through something similar. Bank 2 sensor 1 should be the heated O2 right off the front head by the radiator, I replaced mine and its working fine, from my experience with MAF is, it will idle but will miss under any load or wont allow you over 2400rpm's. The universal O2 should be a little over $50 (it was here in E. TN). I would start there personally. If its throwing a code for the O2 its for a reason.

 

id have to look at my diagram but i thought it was the one behind the oil pan on front of that downstream cat...
i've always had a bad habit of ignoring O2 codes since we dont have emissions to worry about in my county.

you're exactly right though, i can get the idle to normalize with the IAVL procedure but as soon as i shut off and start the car again its back to sputtering.

 

i've got a new MAF enroute...

does anybody have any other thoughts?

 

To update: car sat 2 days w/batt disconnected waiting on obd reader and maf. Pulled codes this morn..P0100-maf. Go figure. Installed and all is well w/the world.

Appreciate everyones input and as usual..the org.

Happy new year all!

 

How did you get a GLE with 5AT?

 

Dont really know, but 02 sensors dont think that is the problem I have my primarys in the piping but not connected to the Harness need to extend them since Headers Installed and the secondaries not plugged in at all...GL I hope you figure it out...

 

Post 13. ^^^

 

Thats what I was thinking.

 

Missed that one...

 

Oh for gods sake....give me a break, most of this thread has been from my phone.

 

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