Any tips on getting a stripped endlink off?

 

Angle grinder.

Or a nut splitter.

 

Just picked up some Moog strut mounts, is there any way to tell the parts I got are really Moog and not some knock off in a box with a MOOG sticker?

 

Not really. But post a pic of how they look both in the box and out. I can tell.

 

Weird cause I thought all MOOG parts were stamped. Pics below.

 

For some reason, not the mounts. Seems OK to me. That's how they've all looked for the past 2-3 years.

 

Why is it when I go over a speed bump the front takes it and the back bounces up like I hit a trampoline ... (even if I go the slowest possible)

 

Blown rear struts.

 

How do you blow rear struts ?

 

Over time, they just go. Or you hit a really nasty pothole/bump. Very simple fix, and fairly inexpensive.

 

Any how to guide

 

It's on shiftice.com. Very easy.

 

Ok so an update on my suspension situation. I got the stripped endlink off
My dremel 8200 took care of that like a champ i cut the nut and split it open.

Then i switched out my kyb strut mounts and bearings with moog strut mounts and bearings. Then i installed the oem springs isolators on the eibach springs.

Both my endlinks were loose feeling, replaced with moog endlinks.

I only drove around for a few minutes because i was so dirty but i dont hear anymore clunking like before it feels great when i hit a bump it feels like sturdy i think the endlinks do that and the kyb strut mounts look fine but they were definitely the source of my clunk i dont know why. They were brand new and i think kyb is a good company they just didnt make our strut mount correctly or maybe because of the stiffer springs? Who knows but if you go with moog you cant go wrong i learned that the suspension is something that you have to take Your time with, everything must be aligned and built properly and this is where experience comes in.

Im a diy guy with alot of tools so i didnt mind taking my struts apart like 3 times to get it right but i like to learn and this is a hobby for me so i had fun too. For the rest of you guys who need a good job done and not have to come back cuz they didnt do it right and ur having problems, go to a experienced installer, djfrestyle knows his stuff his advice helped me out greatly.

I still have more learning to do but for now my maxima and i very happy

 

Glad it all worked out!

If you had me do the job, I'd have been happy to teach as we went along.

Nice job regardless! Make sure you grease those endlinks. They arrive pretty dry.

Also, you owe me a PM response

 

mines were pretty decently greased from factory, my friends are dry as a bone!!
yea i need a grease gun, u think harbor freight grease gun is ok? i dont want to spend over $25 (including grease lolz)

 

im planning on doing a suspension refresh on my sisters 2002 sentra aswell in a month or two, front struts are blown and things are really clunking around, im planning on this

kyb gr2 front struts
oem nissan front bumpstops w/ dustboots
oem nissan strut mount and bearing
moog endlinks
moog tie rod ends
raybestos sway bar bushings
kyb gr2 rear struts
oem nissan rear bumpstops w/ dustboots

i priced that out between rockauto and courtesy nissan came out to $520 with shipping, thats all she can afford for now. any recommendations? i figured if moog was good for my car it would be also good for a b15 sentra??

 

Yea they're all the same.

 

I use Amazon for my non-OEM parts. Prices are generally better than RockAuto, and free shipping with Prime. You can also use Advance Auto Parts. They have RIDICULOUS online coupon codes like $50 off $150, $40 off $100 etc. But their prices are higher than Amazon so sometimes Amazon still wins.

Two comments:
1. Moog doesn't make mounts for the B15?
2. I'd go with Energy Suspension poly bushings for the sway bar instead of Raybestos.

 

Moog does make the strut mounts, i guess if they make a good maxima mount they'll make a good sentra mount i hope?

ES does not make a sway bar bushing for the b15 sentra

I was looking at rockauto and they have the monroe quick strut, how do you feel about that? Any experience or customers with these? My sisters car is a daily driver so she just needs a comfortable ride that wont clunk over everything and a quick strut is so easy to install im really thinking about t

 

Just a quick update here, new struts + two front strut mounts and 4 dust boots went in on the 26th. Handling did tighten up noticeably but now I am getting sloppy/loose/spongy feel from the steering. In addition, I believe I'm also getting spring creaking still.

Plus I don't think bump stops went in with the new struts, are these even required/needed?

 

Wheres frestyl? No days off man

 

Right here

Sorry, I thought I replied. Quick struts are a good option for the Sentra for sure, especially considering the driver.

RR5 - Bump stops ARE needed. If they were OEM then they're one piece integrated with the dustboots. Not sure what you installed though so hard to diagnose your sloppy steering issue.

 

Everything I looked seemed to show the bump stops as a separate item. I'll call the parts guy and try to find out more. The more I look at what problems I am facing the more it seems I'll have to replace most/all suspension and steering parts to get back the "almost new" feel!

 

Were they OEM or aftermarket?

What steering components have you replaced thus far?

 

i have a 2003 maxima 6sp, got it about 6 months ago.
seeing as this is a suspension thread, i have a creaking type noise coming from the right front tire when i make right turns.
when im going into a turn and shift into gear out of nuetral i hear a more defined creak or groan?
first post just throwin it out there thanks

 

Welcome to the forum!

Sounds like it could either be a control arm bushing or possibly the passenger side motor mount.

 

That I can say with certainty: Moog end links (some months ago) then the Moog front strut mounts with 4 kyb excel-g struts. Last year or early this year I believe it was the FR control arm. I'm ready to start over and go with the group buy 5th gen fcp import control arm kit (plus inner/outer tie rods) then add in the ES ball joints.

Beyond that I'm looking at steering bushings.

 

Not a fan of that FCImport kit. Keep your Moog sway bar links. Replace your OTR's with Moog tie rod ends.

I'd get some used arms and go Moog ball joints / ES poly bushings.

Did you use OEM or aftermarket bumpstops/dustboots?

 

Hmm, car-part.com lists a front lower and front upper control arm.

I went with OEM dustboots but I'm not very sure if that included or came with bumpstops. I'd imagine the strut assembly would have to be dropped to find out.

Only reason for going with that El-Cheapo kit is getting most of the checklist items from one place. The used control arms I see on car-part run $75-$100 where with the FCImport kit its not much more $.

 

There's no such thing as an upper control arm for our cars.

With OEM dustboots the bumpstop is integrated into the one piece. The upper part of it that's hard solid rubber is the bumpstop. The softer accordian rubber part of the part is the dustboot.

Even though it's easy, I still don't trust the FCImport parts. I can give you a list of equivalent Moog part numbers right now. I buy used control arms for $60 a pair. And I happen to have a set of gutted 5th gen arms in my garage right now....

 

djfrestyl - thx for all the contributions and info you post, it really makes it easy for a newb like me to learn. I really wish you lived in WI, or have a twin that does haha... I'd take my max to you in a heartbeat. I've read this thread in its entirety (and others you've posted in) and taken notes as I'm looking to do a suspension overhaul on my '01 max. But first, one question I couldn't find an answer for:
- If one were to replace their current spring/strut setup for a new one, will a lowered setup last just as long as a stock setup? (say H&R/Illumina setup vs OEM setup) Provided everything is done properly of course?

I ask because I'm searching locally for a mechanic to work alongside with, and the ones I've spoken to all advise against lowering as they say it wears things out quicker etc etc....

 

Great question. Your mechanics are right, but only if the question was asked/answered in a certain way, and with other factors taken into account.

With regards to the longevity of your CORE suspension - yes it will last the same length. For example, Tokico HP's or GR-2's on stock springs will last the same amount of time as GR-2's or Illuminas with H&R springs.

With regards to the longevity of OTHER parts of your car, no they will not last the same length. Your car is designed to be a certain height. When lowered, other suspension components take a beating because they're operating in an environment which they were not designed for. Control arms (including ball joints) and axles specifically. However this is also dependent on how low you go. An axle will go much quicker if you're slammed on coilovers or Tein S-Techs, than if they're on a moderate drop like H&R.

I would also submit that H&R is a very moderate drop and that the normal/expected operating range of your control arms or axles should include the change in height that the H&R works within. So the tradeoff is really not much of a tradeoff, especially when you consider the stance, improved cornering, lower center of gravity, etc.

Hope this makes sense. Feel free to ask any/all questions you've got.

 

I'm not sure I followed this part.... Are you saying that w an H&R spring setup the overall suspension should last just as long as an OEM setup (because the drop is within the normal operating range of the control arms & axle), but you'll still get the benefits of being slightly lower?

 

Correct, that's what I'm proposing. It's a hypothesis though. And it's very hard to prove or disprove unless you have two brand new cars that go through exactly the same life, one being dropped from the onset and the other being stock.

Axles go on OEM setups too. So do control arms. So expect repair of those regardless of strut/spring. What we're simply discussing here is the duration.

 

Got it, thank you!

Car is '01 AE manual 87xxx. I originally was looking for coilovers, until I saw you said that even the softest of them are still stiffer than most spring setups. So I moved on to researching spring/strut combos. I like the feel of the car now while driving straight, but as soon as I turn I feel like I'm back in my granddad's '92 Oldsmobile ninety-eight. So I guess I'm looking for the best of both worlds. I'm not a track guy. Just looking for improved handling for a daily-driver - to make it a bit more fun. The shift-ice page and others have said H&R is the most moderate drop. So those seems like a good fit. Any suggestions for struts?

 

GR-2, definitely. Illuminas are overkill for H&R.

They can be had for $300-$325 for all 4, shipping included.

 

Good to see an old head still around...

 

Hahah, hey buddy!

 

Need to revisit this, I took a quick trip to downtown seattle where the roads are terrible and it was non-stop thumping creaking and groaning metal sounds from my suspension..haha time made a fool of me. Plenty of what I'd describe 'sloshing' around, the feeling of the car moving side-to-side. The struts are new so the chassis feels rigid going around corners (any speeds) but the steering input has gotten completely soggy.

Feels to me any bump in the road transfers straight up to the strut mounts up top, you can clearly hear the 'wham' sound as the suspension/strut travels to its maximum limit.

I hesitate on the control arms because the 6th gen front calipers are larger and I recall having a scraping sound with the steering wheel fully to the left. An auto shop ground down some of the control arm to correct that. Adding to that the reports the FCimport control arms dont rub 6th gen calipers makes it appealing.

Unless I can scoop up the control arms, ES control arm bushings, inner and outer tie rods for a double take price.. I may just give in and pick up that FCimport control arm kit.

 

I see what you mean, although I like the idea of being able to adjust the dampening. Might be worth the extra $$...

I measured the distance from top of tire to bottom of wheel well (on the outside plastic cover):
- Front is 2.5 inches
- Rear is 1.5 inches

What's a common approach for that scenario?

edit: shortened