I feel like I've written this before but this is a VERY fast synopsis of coilovers vs spring/strut setup.

Cost is roughly the same for springs vs struts.

Coilovers - fantastic handling. Not AS comfortable as springs or struts (hence better on good roads). Require maintenance and TLC. Don't last as long as spring/struts

Springs/struts. Good handling. More comfortable than coilovers. More of a 'set it and forget it' installation. Last longer than coilovers.

All up to you. If you can deal with the shorter longevity and less comfort in exchange for the ridiculous handling, go coilovers. If you prefer a more conservative approach, springs/struts.

 

Dj, you're a wealth of knowledge my friend. I never would have guessed that, and I'm surprised I haven't seen it before considering how long I've been reading about it.

I'm gonna say that I'll do the GR-2 and H&R combo whenever school stops kicking my ***. Hopefully soon. But one last thing, do I need an alignment kit for the H&R springs like I do for the Eibachs?

 

Happy to help.

No camber bolts/camber kit/alignment kit of any kind are needed with Eibach's or H&R's.

 

it's a good idea to get an alignment as you are removing the strut from the knuckle. if you don't get it installed just right, the camber can be off.

I've done enough strut installs I can usually eyeball it pretty damn close. When I had my Maxima aligned after the strut/spring install, the only thing that had to be adjusted was toe on the RF wheel.

 

^^ Good point. I made mention of alignment KIT, not a standard alignment.

With any suspension job, yup a standard alignment is definitely adviseable.

AWeb80 - I bet my eyeball is closer than yours

 

Competition eh? Bring it.

 

Just wondering what the thoughts are on the Monroe Quick-Strut Complete Strut Assembly for someone not lowering their car. Just want to keep factory ride/ride height. Seems like the easiest to install, and least damaging to wallet!

Thanks.

 

They're OK, not great. Softer and floatier than OEM but you get what you pay for.

You're local...PM me. I do installs for local org members.

Difference in cost in Monroes vs other options is really not THAT large.

 

Hey dj, how would some I35 front struts/springs work on an 02 SE?

 

Exactly the same as on the I35. The only difference is that the I35 springs would likely be ever so slightly softer than on an SE.

 

Ive had Megan springs for about 3 months now, all was fine until the other day. My driveway is very steep and I backed into it (I usually go front in), put it in park and yanked the e-brake and got out. All was fine.

Then I went to pull out of the driveway and head away and now every time I hit a bump my front left side clunks. I've checked all my bolts to make sure they are tight. Any ideas?

 

Clunks are usually visible. What do you see?

Have someone shake the car at the fender (front to back, up and down, and side to side) while you look around underneath. Should be pretty apparent.

 

Check the top strut mount. The The nut for the strut should be dead center in the opening. When you shake the car side to side, that nut should not move at all.

 

Lowered on a blown strut But it looks nice tho' One baby finger gap tire to fender.

 

 

I'm looking to throw a Rear sway bar on now along w/ ES Trailing arm bushings.

Is there a sway bar brand you recommend? or should I just go with the ADDCO 655 bar on ebay.....although $180 seems a bit much.

Any input on the install of the ES TA bushings?

 

Addco, Progress, Stillen..pretty much all the same. $160 is what I remember paying for my Progress one (new) about 5-6 years ago. $180 isn't terrible.

ES TA...that's a lot more work than putting on an RSB. Hope you have patience. Gonna take you some time to drop the TA and burn out the bushings

 

So I don't have to press the old ones out? Just burn them out?

 

Press also works if you can get them out cleanly.

 

I'd rather burn them out. My dad has an oxy-acetylene torch. I just didn't know if there is an inner sleeve that needs to come out with it to make room for the ES bushings.

 

There will be. Cut a slit through the sleeve using a hacksaw or something similar. This will give you the relief to push the sleeve to slide out with a screwdriver/hammer.

 

Ok. Thanks.

Now to just figure out a free Saturday to tackle this....

 

I have Eibach/Illuminas. If I don't use camber bolts, they kill the inner edges of my tires. Just fyi.

 

First report I've heard of this.

Are you certain your alignment shop knows what they're doing?

 

That's a good question. It is sears, so that is certainly a question. But the specs come back within range and he has to adjust camber (which is not normally adjustable). One guy there is the only one that can align my car.

It was originally a tire shop that showed me camber was off.

If that's not typical, what could cause camber to be off besides lowering?

 

I'm skeptical.

I'd try somewhere else. If they can't get it aligned within specs on Eibach, then something else is wrong. Try another shop first and report back. We'll take it from there.

 

I guess I need to go get a regular bolt for the strut and pull out the camber bolt and see what they can do.

 

I don't believe in camber bolts. Even on Progress springs my alignment shop has been able to get the car back in spec.

 

I've got some suspension noise questions, inbox mee

 

Better for you to post your question in the thread so everyone can benefit from it.

 

After my suspension overhaul everything feels great but there is a clunk that I sometimes get that I am now able to replicate, but I'm stumped.

I have to go 5mph or slower and over rough roads, after a minute or two of this my driver side starts clunking and gets louder and you hear significant movement to the point where I pull over and check my lug nuts thinking my wheel might fall off. This happens in extreme traffic.

If I start to go faster or hit harder bumps it will completely go away even on big speed bumps no clunking at all until I go slowly through rough roads again.

What do you think? Which part can cause a on-off looseness

 

Get out of the car and find a friend. From the fender, have them push the car up and down, front to back, and side to side. Get under the hood and/or car and look for the noise. Clunks are generally visual.

 

Hey all, its been a while. I am going to be ordering another set of lowering springs soon and I have a quick question that I'm confused about. I currently am running Maxspeed Lowering springs 1.4F, 1.3R and I'm looking to go a little bit lower. I've owned S-techs in the past and I don't think I want to go that low on springs again as the ride was very uncomfortable and I used to bottom out frequently. So I've been looking at 3 different options.

Option 1: Megan Racing lowering springs 1.75F and 1.75R, I've only seen a few pics of these on our cars and it seems to be a decent set of springs. Does anyone have any input to these as far as quality, ride comfort, pics of their car with them on etc?

Option 2: Offbrand Ebay springs 2.0F and 2.0R, now these seem like a pretty low drop as well, the front isn't nearly as aggressive as the S-techs but the rear drop is lower. I haven't been able to find any good info or pics of these springs on a 5th gen so if anyone has any pics or opinions let me know.

Option 3: Tein H-Techs 1.6F and 1.0R, here is where I am really confused, these have a little bit lower drop in the front then my Maxspeeds, however the rear is only rated at 1.0", but almost everyone I have seen that has measured their cars and other comments say that these actually drop the rear lower than the Maxspeeds? If this is the case these are the springs that I'm going with but I don't want to raise my rear up higher than it already is if they indeed only drop it 1.0" lower than stock in the rear.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

Take a look at this, might help regarding ride height.
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html

1. They're fine. 1.75 is the lowest I'd ever go on springs. You MUST run Illuminas with these.
2. No. Don't trust them, and entirely too low for struts.
3. See the pics on the site above.

Your spring / ride height will determine which strut you go with. Anything lower than 1.5" IMO should be on Illuminas. Anything lower than 1.8" you should get Coilovers.

 

I have Megan racing springs on my car, paired with GR2's it is firm but its not harsh by any means. Here's some pictures:

 

Thanks for the input guys. Rcrootbeer that's a slick car man, I'm definitely leaning towards the Megan Racing springs. They seem to be the perfect mix of drop and practicality.

 

Hey Dj, first just want to say I bought one of your spare tire covers back before it was cool

My 01 se has 238000 on her now and I am about to do a suspension overhaul. I am replacing my ksport coilovers with Tein street advance coilovers, and also replacing all bushings etc, and doing a progress rsb. Here is my parts list


Front End Steering Pack - Nissan Maxima 00-03Part Number: Moog-PackageDeal090 $270.33

Front Control Arm BushingsPart Number: 7.3118 $55.99 Color:*- Red-*-*

Rear Trailing Arm BushingsPart Number: 7.7108 $69.99 Color:*- Black-*-*

Front Sway Bar Bushings - 23mmPart Number: 7.5125 $20.99 Color:*- Black-*-*

Front Sway Bar End Link Kit - Passenger SidePart Number: MOOG-K90431 $18.51

Front Sway Bar End Link Kit - Driver SidePart Number: MOOG-K90432 $18.51

Front Upper Strut Mount KitPart Number: MOOG-K90655 $47.26 qty 2 $94.52*Sub Total: $548.84

These prices are from EnergySuspensionParts.com Are the prices reasonable? Is there anything else that I should do? I still have my rear mounts but I think you just reuse those correct?

 

You can get better pricing. Check Amazon, RockAuto and other retailers.

The list looks good.

 

What do I need besides the two front struts, two moog mounts and two strut BUMPER ASSYBOUND - TOKAI
Part Number: 54050-2Y001 ?

 

All you are doing is fronts? If so, nothing.