Thanks for the quick input!

1. That's odd about breakage. Haven't seen that in here in AZ where there are no corrosion issues. Although some OTS Eibach applications have poorly designed rates, they are considered one of the higher quality custom springs for coilover applications along with Hyperco and Swift. I ran Eibach on my Trans-Am for 12 years with plenty of track time and no breakage. I only changed them because I wanted higher/linear rates.

2. Since you mention it, I will check again since its easy to do.

 

Confirmed that upper spring perch is installed with the OUT stamp facing outwards. I didn't remove the assembly from the car, but the finger wide "cutout" is facing out per FSM page SU-11. Hmmmmm......

 

Only ur rear springs would be loose while car jacked up because their significantly shorter than stock but im pretty sure your front springs should not be loose at all while the cars jacked up

 

Hey Dif:


05 Max, auto. Changed out all the front suspension parts (tie rods, sway, control arm, struts and shocks, mounts) except for the Springs (now with 222K miles on vehicle).


How can I tell if the springs needs replacing? Is this something that is changed with the Struts? Am wearing "Monroe" struts..Hola

 

H&R Lowering Springs is what I am positive I'm going with. Based on that, decent lowering and ride comfort, these are what I'm looking for. Strut price $300-$350

 

For both of you, KYB GR-2's (now known as Excel-G) are the best struts to mate with H&R on the 5th gen.

 

OEM springs don't go bad. Monroe struts are not great. What is the issue you are experiencing?

 

This reply is irrelevant to the quoted text...and is incorrect nonetheless. Neither front nor rear springs should have any play while the car is jacked up. If there is play, the spring is not seated properly.

 

Oooookay, not what I expected. I was thinking adjustable Illuminas. Why (learning question) would I go to a oem stock replacement instead of adjustable?

 

....Just know there's two front kyb struts to be had on ebay for $80 free shipping,if you change your mind

 

That's what I thought. Thanks. I need to lift the front again and compare left and right sides for "play" i.e. ability to slightly rotate spring on perch. The shaft nut was torqued with an impact and checked with a torque wrench. But I wonder if the assembly may somehow not be completely compressed. May need to remove and reassemble to make sure things are right.

 

GR-2/Excel G are not just an OEM replacement. They're better. They're very capable of handling H&R's, and they do it well.

Adjustability is only for someone that wants that additional level of customization. In my opinion Illuminas are overkill unless you're going lower than H&R. Save your money.

 

Never torque that down with impact. Easiest way to destroy your strut mount or strut itself.

 

This is a good price if they're legit. Usually front Excel-G's (aka GR-2) are about $80 each.

 

I haven't seen H&R in person, do they look lowered at all or does it still look close to stock. I do want to be able to tell that the car is lowered you know? Adj. means comfort and ride height, or just comfort?

 

10-4. Although it was a "light" impact tightening, it's entirely possible that we are actually over-torqued.

So at this point is it reasonable, as a check, to loosen the nut and re-tighten to the proper torque from under the hood without removing the strut from the car?

 

Here is a comparison of spring heights. H&R's are moderately dropped and a good balance of suspension performance while still maintaining good comfort.
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html

Adjustable struts mean the dampening (comfort level) is adjustable.

Height is NOT adjustable with Illuminas. The only suspension setups that are height adjustable are coilovers, air suspension, and wack Ground Control coilovers.

 

I will second this. I have around 4k miles on my H&R/GR-2 set up and love it.

My car is pictured with its current stance in my sig.

 

Not too shabby a setup on the 4th gen either

http://forums.maxima.org/8863681-post358.html

 

Last 2 things, am i sacrificing anything by getting the Excel-G's over the Illuminas? And does anyone know and good places to buy the H&R's and GR2(Excel G's)?

 

Dampening adjustability...that's about it.

My go-to is Amazon. Very fair prices and free 2-day shipping.

 

Thanks for doing this guys!

My Car: Mostly stock 2003 SE, Auto, 17" wheels, nearly new tires (6k miles) just rotated, 77k miles on car, just aligned yesterday.

My issues: When going around turns at highway speeds, or on/off ramps with right turns, there feels like a sudden weight shift (or sag) to the left rear wheel along with sudden understeer. Car is also very unstable when it is windy or on rough pavement where the rear end sometimes feels like it's "wagging."

I inspected the suspension. There are no visible issues with front control arms, links, tie rods and stabilizer bushings, and no visible issues with trailing arm bushings or lateral link bushings.

Rear struts didn't look bad, but I thought that was the most likely issue, so I replaced them with GR2s. The issue did not go away. In fact, it may be getting worse.

Any help you can provide in pinpointing the issue will be very much appreciated!

Thank you!
David

 

With suspension issues, very rarely will you see any problems with it when the car is static. You need to jack the car up, take the wheels off, and start moving things by hand/dead blow hammer to see what is loose and what not.

 

^^ Agree. But also, get under the car and have someone shake it up and down, back and forth, and side to side.

In the rear, other than struts, the only thing that really goes is trailing arm bushings. Can't be sure, but that would be my bet.

 

Thanks guys I'll do that.

So, Dj, if I'm hearing you right, you're saying it's pretty unlikely that it's the lateral link?

David

 

Also check autoanything. They had the best price on a recent Eibach/Illumina purchase.

If you think you might be sensitive to firmness or handling, Illuminas are an insurance policy for your overall satisfaction. Nothing worse than swapping things out and discovering the ride is too soft or firm and not being able to tune it. For road cars, a single adjustable is great for matching the springs and shocks to your taste. For track cars, a double adjustable (separate rebound and compression) is useful.

 

Haven't heard of many lateral links going. It could be, but unlikely.

 

I took out the passenger engine mount and it's pretty shot - the rubber is torn in quite a few places. I used the one from my spare car which isn't perfect (one small tear), but it's definitely alot better.

Anyway, no more rattling, and I can't get it to produce any vibration no matter what I do with acceleration / high revs.

Hopefully that engine mount will last for a little while, but I'd say I'll probably replace them all in the next go.

Anyway, djfrestyl - for you advice - THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!

 

Hi djfrestyl,
I have a question, which one of these i should buy to mate with kyb rear struts?
.P#55240-a33B001,a33B003 or a33B005?
Courtesy Nissan has three different ones to match my manufactured date 01/00?tia.

 

Glad it worked out!

 

Does not matter. Whichever is cheapest. The important part of the part # is 55240, not the second half.

 

Happy 27th birthday to me and her!when the fronts get here I'll be ready for install hopefully Friday

 

Tough not to come around on buying the h&r springs but i think coilovers are the way to go for any kind of drop around my side of the city...street are terrible

 

You are saying that coilovers are BETTER for poor roads?

Completely disagree.

 

I was under that impression,but coming from a knowledgeable guy like you i'm almost certain my assumption was wrong....

 

Yup, agree.

Stick with springs if you have poor quality roads.

 

Well i totally screwd it up...0_o...now to do the job twice..bacause i can't hardly wait to put the struts on...: i don't think i can wait for the springs to get here...the fronts eta is march 3, I'll be the 9th before i get them :

 

Patience! Do it once, do it right.

 

Is it normal for the front end to groan loudly on the way down from speed bumps? No noises while driving normal roads but big speed bumps i hear extreme groaning creaking, then smooth again, this is on my new refurbished front end

 

No, noises are not normal.

On a separate note, I replied to your PM but never heard back.