djfrestyl's DEFINITIVE "I HAVE A SUSPENSION QUESTION" THREAD!!!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 972
From: Bronx, NY
Ok i would like it to be noise free. Yea tryna figure something out i think both cars have several small problems, time is so hard to come by. I promise ill visit you one of these days, really waiting for the weather to get better aswell.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 27
From: Sherman, TX
About to pull the trigger on getting some GR-2's for my 2000 i30. Now the part number reads 334265 (x2). I've been doing a little research and usually the front is 334265 and 334266, I believe. From what I've seen only the back ones are the same part number. Could this be a problem?
You are correct and kudos on the research.
You need one each of 334265 and 334266 for the fronts on your 2000 i30.
Rears you need 2x of 341341 OR 341271, whichever of the two are cheaper. One is 00-01 model, other is 02-03, but they're identical. No idea why KYB did it this way.
You need one each of 334265 and 334266 for the fronts on your 2000 i30.
Rears you need 2x of 341341 OR 341271, whichever of the two are cheaper. One is 00-01 model, other is 02-03, but they're identical. No idea why KYB did it this way.
Can the Tokico blues be inserted with the 4th GEN SE OEM springs? Will raising her back up 1.5" with this setup make the ride smoother?
The progressive springs only dropped the MAX 1.5" but they have a lower Spring Rate that the SE OEM springs.
OEM SE springs (linear) estimated:
Front: 250 lbs/in
Rear: 250 lbs/in
Tokico (progressive)
Front: 111-225 lbs/in
Rear: 148-295 lbs/in
My 98 SE now has the Tokico blue struts with the Tokico red progressive springs that came in the HPK245 package. That setup along with the moog strut mounts only have 12,000 miles.
To keep the new fenders, repaired quarters and rocker panels from rusting again I might raise her back up. Changing oil will also be easier.
The progressive springs only dropped the MAX 1.5" but they have a lower Spring Rate that the SE OEM springs.
OEM SE springs (linear) estimated:
Front: 250 lbs/in
Rear: 250 lbs/in
Tokico (progressive)
Front: 111-225 lbs/in
Rear: 148-295 lbs/in
My 98 SE now has the Tokico blue struts with the Tokico red progressive springs that came in the HPK245 package. That setup along with the moog strut mounts only have 12,000 miles.
To keep the new fenders, repaired quarters and rocker panels from rusting again I might raise her back up. Changing oil will also be easier.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 27
From: Sherman, TX
You are correct and kudos on the research.
You need one each of 334265 and 334266 for the fronts on your 2000 i30.
Rears you need 2x of 341341 OR 341271, whichever of the two are cheaper. One is 00-01 model, other is 02-03, but they're identical. No idea why KYB did it this way.
You need one each of 334265 and 334266 for the fronts on your 2000 i30.
Rears you need 2x of 341341 OR 341271, whichever of the two are cheaper. One is 00-01 model, other is 02-03, but they're identical. No idea why KYB did it this way.
That's what I thought. Just figured I'd double check my research. Much appreciated dj!
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 27
From: Sherman, TX
Another question. What size sway bar bushings are needed for the 2000 i30? I see that the max SE uses 23mm and all other models are 22mm. I'm assuming that the control arm and rear trailing arm bushings are the same from max to i30.
Last edited by djfrestyl; Mar 12, 2014 at 05:11 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 27
From: Sherman, TX
Thanks dj that's what I was looking for. As for the color options, if I'm not mistaken, the red are softer than the black but mostly just offered for the people that want to add 5hp....
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 27
From: Sherman, TX
Don't quote me but I think I read somewhere that there is a subtle difference in stiffness. On another note I changed the sway bar links and outer tie rod ends on my girlfriends 6th gen. You would have puked at seeing what came off that car. 120,000 miles never been changed. I'll let your imagination take it from there. 
Don't quote me but I think I read somewhere that there is a subtle difference in stiffness. On another note I changed the sway bar links and outer tie rod ends on my girlfriends 6th gen. You would have puked at seeing what came off that car. 120,000 miles never been changed. I'll let your imagination take it from there.
No. 7.5124.
Last edited by djfrestyl; Mar 12, 2014 at 05:12 AM.
Wuz up dj, let me run something by you real quick...the install of the struts was going great note that was until(thank GOD i still have my face) it hit me i been riding on two left struts for the last 3months and don't know if the left spring is going to work with the new right "right"strut,i'm not near the garage right now so i can't go look,but it's got me thinking
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 106
Replacing front struts
Hello Dj. Ok, after reading MANY pages of this thread, I think I have it down. I currently have 225k on my max, all stock suspension. I'm going to tackle the front struts within the next few weeks (gotta replace a rear wheel hub assembly first). Not sure what struts I'm going to get yet, but do I HAVE to replace the springs? Also, by what I read I need to replace the strut mounts as well (going with Moog)? Just trying to get everything together so I don't get stuck needing something when I install. Thanks for your time.
Last edited by Emaximus; Mar 5, 2014 at 08:05 PM.
They're perfect for you.
Here's the part #'s of what you need
KYB's - roughly $325 shipped for the set of 4
1x 334265
1x 334266
2x 341341 OR 2x 341341 (whichever is cheaper)
Moog - Roughly $35-40 each
2x K90655
OEM Dustboots. Nissan ONLY. Do NOT get KYB, Monroe, or any other brand. Roughly $80 shipped for all 4.
2x 55240
2x 54050
These are the parts you need to do it right, with quality parts at a fair price.
Here's the part #'s of what you need
KYB's - roughly $325 shipped for the set of 4
1x 334265
1x 334266
2x 341341 OR 2x 341341 (whichever is cheaper)
Moog - Roughly $35-40 each
2x K90655
OEM Dustboots. Nissan ONLY. Do NOT get KYB, Monroe, or any other brand. Roughly $80 shipped for all 4.
2x 55240
2x 54050
These are the parts you need to do it right, with quality parts at a fair price.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
From: Bogota, COL
Hey, on my rear suspension, everytime I go over a pot hole it sounds like the car is going to come apart, the impact is so hard it is scary, like if there was no spring at all. last year I replaced the shock absorbers with KYB (closer to stock since I am using the stock springs, I think that would be GR-2 right?) thinking that it would help but no luck, what could it be? do I need to get bushings all over the rear susp?
Alson on the front I replaced at the same time shocks, mounts and LBB and that eliminated some cluncking I had but not it is back, everytime I go over speed bumps it clunks, I jacked it up last weekend and the LBB seem to be OK, it's too soon form them to fail though (I got the Moog ones, supposedly good stuff) where is the clunking coming from?
if no bumps on the road the car handles good, like it is supposed to I guess, no leaning, no bouncing around, so what could it be? please help!!!
Alson on the front I replaced at the same time shocks, mounts and LBB and that eliminated some cluncking I had but not it is back, everytime I go over speed bumps it clunks, I jacked it up last weekend and the LBB seem to be OK, it's too soon form them to fail though (I got the Moog ones, supposedly good stuff) where is the clunking coming from?
if no bumps on the road the car handles good, like it is supposed to I guess, no leaning, no bouncing around, so what could it be? please help!!!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 972
From: Bronx, NY
Idk it had two two blk metal brackets on each side and one big one around circumference of the trunk passage, i just wish i had bought the rear window shade from the i30 i saw Tuesday ,it would have been a nice time for the mod...
Edit:i finished the install earlier and test drove it, feels very stiff not even close to how it was,however I'll have to remove one of the front ones since the bottom perch and the spring are making contact creating a small rattle
,it would have been a nice time for the mod...Edit:i finished the install earlier and test drove it,
feels very stiff not even close to how it was,however I'll have to remove one of the front ones since the bottom perch and the spring are making contact creating a small rattle
Last edited by nestorlugo; Mar 6, 2014 at 08:34 PM.
^^^^^Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...d=251265861334
This is a suspension thread tho! Should really post that question on the noobie 5Th gen thread....:I
This is a suspension thread tho! Should really post that question on the noobie 5Th gen thread....:I
Last edited by nestorlugo; Mar 7, 2014 at 03:18 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
From: Bogota, COL
Hey, on my rear suspension, everytime I go over a pot hole it sounds like the car is going to come apart, the impact is so hard it is scary, like if there was no spring at all. last year I replaced the shock absorbers with KYB (closer to stock since I am using the stock springs, I think that would be GR-2 right?) thinking that it would help but no luck, what could it be? do I need to get bushings all over the rear susp?
Alson on the front I replaced at the same time shocks, mounts and LBB and that eliminated some cluncking I had but not it is back, everytime I go over speed bumps it clunks, I jacked it up last weekend and the LBB seem to be OK, it's too soon form them to fail though (I got the Moog ones, supposedly good stuff) where is the clunking coming from?
if no bumps on the road the car handles good, like it is supposed to I guess, no leaning, no bouncing around, so what could it be? please help!!!
Alson on the front I replaced at the same time shocks, mounts and LBB and that eliminated some cluncking I had but not it is back, everytime I go over speed bumps it clunks, I jacked it up last weekend and the LBB seem to be OK, it's too soon form them to fail though (I got the Moog ones, supposedly good stuff) where is the clunking coming from?
if no bumps on the road the car handles good, like it is supposed to I guess, no leaning, no bouncing around, so what could it be? please help!!!
Any ideas?
Hey, on my rear suspension, everytime I go over a pot hole it sounds like the car is going to come apart, the impact is so hard it is scary, like if there was no spring at all. last year I replaced the shock absorbers with KYB (closer to stock since I am using the stock springs, I think that would be GR-2 right?) thinking that it would help but no luck, what could it be? do I need to get bushings all over the rear susp?
Alson on the front I replaced at the same time shocks, mounts and LBB and that eliminated some cluncking I had but not it is back, everytime I go over speed bumps it clunks, I jacked it up last weekend and the LBB seem to be OK, it's too soon form them to fail though (I got the Moog ones, supposedly good stuff) where is the clunking coming from?
if no bumps on the road the car handles good, like it is supposed to I guess, no leaning, no bouncing around, so what could it be? please help!!!
Alson on the front I replaced at the same time shocks, mounts and LBB and that eliminated some cluncking I had but not it is back, everytime I go over speed bumps it clunks, I jacked it up last weekend and the LBB seem to be OK, it's too soon form them to fail though (I got the Moog ones, supposedly good stuff) where is the clunking coming from?
if no bumps on the road the car handles good, like it is supposed to I guess, no leaning, no bouncing around, so what could it be? please help!!!
If not your struts, then check motor mounts and control arms.
In the rear, there is not much to do except struts.
If struts did not help the rear then rear trailing arms would be your next focus point.
^^^^^Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...d=251265861334
This is a suspension thread tho! Should really post that question on the noobie 5Th gen thread....:I
This is a suspension thread tho! Should really post that question on the noobie 5Th gen thread....:I
Per my reply to Nestor, no need to go oem. Any of the known aftermarket brands are fine. Each mount should be in the $30-$45 range.
Yes i kind of knew but good looking out,but the reason i really got'em was because i plan to do the es insert on the front and back,i didn't want to mess with the oem mounts just disconnected them soon as i read they could damage ecu.
