Just get them local. Advanced Auto Parts, Pep Boys, etc. Just make sure the warranty is decent.

 

Bump!

PM me for a free consult and schedule an install day

 

64,000 Miles on my Illuminas... clock is ticking

 

Lol, sounds good.

 

DJ

Going to change out the entire stock suspension. Using these components which I've bought over the last 2 weeks.

KYB AGX Struts - Front and Rear
Eibach Pro Kit 6334.140
KYB mounts, bearing -front
KYB boots front and rear
KYB bushings -rear

I'd like to pre assemble them beforehand and then do a quick changeover. This allows me to put together 1 or 2 per night.

A few questions maybe you can help with:
1. I'm not liking the KYB boot material, (plastic) should I get the OEM rubber?
2. Does anyone make the isolators (wrap for the coil spring end where it meets perch) besides getting OEM? Do I need them? The stock ones seem very thin.
3. Do I need the cap for the rear struts? I looked under the trunk carpeting and they don't exist. Have never changed out the rear struts.
4. Cutting the bump stops for the rear boots. I've read in other threads to leave alone and some say cut 1/3" to 1/2". What should be cut in front and the rear? if any.
5. Considering replacing front stabilzer end links as well. Should I go with MOOG, NAPA or OEM? Are the ones that allow you to grease better?

Thanks!

 

Hey...

First, I recommend you re-read this thread in its entirety. Many of the questions you ask above have been covered.

That being said, I'll still answer them.

You didn't really have to spend on AGX's. You would have been fine with GR-2's. You're going to need additional hardware in order to make full assemblies. Specifically the stud plate, the large rubber upper spring isolator and the upper metal shroud. These are hard to come by, and expensive at the dealer. Unless you have these on-hand, your strategy won't work.

1. Yes. OEM boots ONLY. Also don't bother with KYB mounts, they suck. Return em and get Moog. I don't know what you mean by "Rear KYB Bushings"
2. Are you sure your Eibach's don't already come with isolators? If they don't, you can reuse OEM. If they seem worn just flip them upside down.
3. Cap? What cap? Are you talking about the rubber cap that the 6th gen Maximas come with? 4th and 5th gen Maximas don't come with this.
4. Usually with OEM Boots you cut the first section off. Eibach's aren't low enough to warrant any cutting at all.
5. Moog. While you're at it, replace the sway bar bushings with Energy Suspension poly bushings as well.

You're in NJ, and so am I. I'm kind of a seasoned installer so it might be worthwhile for you to have me do the installation. I'll teach you along the way. It would be to your benefit. It would take about 2.5 hours total, and you wouldn't have to fumble with something you're not familiar with. PM me if interested.

 

The set of AGX's were cheap, less than GR-2's or Tokico Blues only reason I got them. I have 2 OE front strut assemblies I can take parts from. Only replacing worn parts.

1. OK just ordered OEM boots all around. Local dealer didn't have any. KYB rear bushings- SM5123 upper/lower bushing, OEM 56217/56218.
2. No isolators included, their instructions tell you to reuse most of your existing parts. Ordered new ones from Courtesy.
3. OEM 56204 as per diagram from Courtesy Parts.

4. Will follow your advice and not cut.
5. Ordered Moog ones.


I'll send you a PM about possible install.

 

1. Oh, you purchased rear strut mount bushings. You didn't have to, they don't really wear. I've never replaced a single one unless they came with the replacement strut. IIRC Illuminas come with these.
3. Yea, you don't need that.

PM replied

 

Hey i was hoping you help me with a clunking coming from the rear, It seams to occur over small and large bumbps and even just rough road, the odd thing is, is it really only seams pronounced at slower speeds <25-35 mph and it really only seams to happen when both the rear suspension compresses.

If i go over a speed bump with only one tire its quiet I tested the struts (illuminas with Dropzone springs) and they rebound just fine and don't bounce. Not sure what else to start looking at, Rear mounts for the struts? sway bar components maybe?

Also its not the exahst rattling because i originaly thought that and had an extra hanger welded on and its pretty steady. Thanks in advance for any suggestions

 

How did you test the struts? Did you remove the assemblies from the car or just push down on the car? If you remove them you'll also be able to check the condition of the mounts and hardware.

Can you replicate the noise if you and a friend both push down on the rear at the same time?

You have an aftermarket sway bar? I'd check those bushings and all the mounting points.

Only other parts in the rear are trailing arms bushings and the center linkage - which hardly ever fail.

 

How did you test the struts? Did you remove the assemblies from the car or just push down on the car? If you remove them you'll also be able to check the condition of the mounts and hardware.

- i just pushed down on them and had a friend look for excessive bounce.

Can you replicate the noise if you and a friend both push down on the rear at the same time?

- I cannot replicate it except to drive, ive done slow drive by's with a friend and we think its coming from the passenger side but its hard to tell

You have an aftermarket sway bar? I'd check those bushings and all the mounting points.

- No, i wasnt sure if there was a factory sway bar, or if the center beam serves this purpose

Only other parts in the rear are trailing arms bushings and the center linkage - which hardly ever fail.

So what i gather from this is its gotta be something with the struts, a bad mount or even a blown strut? Is it common for Illumina's to blow after ~40,000k miles? I know that a loaded question especially with a 2" drop which is more then recommended.

 

Yea, pretty much. I would try to do some visual checks though. Often times you can see noises like this.

 

Ok, cool thanks for the help man

 

My pleasure.

Feel free to purchase a spare tire cover from me to thank me for the help

(see sig)

 

lol I actualy made my own version borrowing hevily on yours so i guess i should thank you twice

 

Thief!

 

To all my suspension friends...

Today and today only, I'm offering $5 off my awesome spare tire covers. If you have been thinking about getting one, today is the day to do it. Payment must be received today.

PM me if interested

 

So I'm thinking I might have a tie rod issue.

My car is currently at 100k miles and has been lowered since 30k. I just got new axles (both sides) on my car. The problem is that when I'm driving my steering wheel is shaking, not horribly but very annoying to the point that my watch is shaking on my wrist. It gets a little worse after I hit about 50mph. I got my car alignment done and my wheels have been balanced. Also my steering wheel feels loose when I'm driving.

 

Sounds like an appropriate diagnosis. Replace your OTR's with Moog and report back. It's a very easy job.

 

You happen to have the moog part numbers? I'm being lazy, haha!

Edit: I stopped being lazy and I found it. haha! MOOG-ES3438

 

You're lucky I have them memorized

Moog ES3438 - 5th gen OTR ends. They're not side specific so order two.

 

While you have them hanging, you might as well check the inners. It would suck to be in a rush, skip that step, and have to get back in there again just to check.

 

I have a 5.5 gen max, in the process of replacing the struts on it. I bought Megan lowering springs so i am going to 'build' a strut asssembly off the car and just replace the entire thing to make it easier, but so far i only have the struts and springs. im not sure what else i need to complete a strut assembly, so i need some help!!! lol thanks

 

Not worth the time to source all the extras - a few of them are dealer/junkyard only and a bit hard to find. They also may be expensive.

You're local to me - I'm sending you a PM. Let's chat about your suspension and what parts you really need.

FYI, have a look at the below diagram. 54034, 54036 and 54322 are the hard-to-source parts.

 

You could buy a quick strut Monroe or Raybestos and use all of the parts except for the strut and spring. The individual parts adds up quickly $$$. And some are hard to find an aftermarket maker for.

 

Quick struts don't exist for the 5th gen.

Also, you owe me a reply to my PM

 

what do you guys recommend for struts HP "blues" or Gr-2.. i am putting H-tech Springs 1.6" F drop.1.0 R Drop.. with 17" tires.. i live in city but not alot of potholes... illuminna is too damn expensive

 

GR-2's on H-Techs. Which city?

 

seattle WA/oregon... i want close to stock comfy ride/slightly better handling

 

With ANY lowering spring, the lower you go, the less comfortable the ride will be.

That being said, the most comfortable lowering spring is H&R. H-Tech's are less comfortable, but still bearable.

 

When I lower my Maxima after an oil change, I get a creaking sound from the front suspension. I know my struts are done and need to be replaced. What else can cause that creaking metal sound as the car is lowered?

 

Control arm bushings could be a culprit in addition to the blown struts.

Creaking metal against metal? Like grinding? Or is it a rubber-against-metal groan?

Do you have aftermarket dustboots?

 

I think its metal-metal stress groaning/creaking. As for dustboots, unsure. I got Tokico blues 1-2 years ago. Control arm bushings makes sense to me, I been struggling with some leaky trans-engine oil which eats those bushings.

 

Just a curious question since I am happy with my setup: How long would coilovers last on a daily driver before requiring a rebuild?

 

You're in NYC - potholes and rust, so it's hard to predict because of extreme conditions.

They don't all blow at the same time. I've seen some go as few as 15k miles, and others go as long as 70k miles.

Really hard to gauge, but on average, I'd say expect a rebuild (all 4) in the 40-50k range.

 

Ahh, ok. I just couldn't imagine the downtime of the car to get them sent out for a rebuild.

I'm happy with my H&Rs and Blues. Probably should have gotten the Illumina's, but the Blues are holding up well.

 

thanks i willing to risk it there is nothing worst than driving with blown struts...

On more Q for you sir.. what other parts will i need will i be able to reuse current struts mount.. i read i need oem dustboots i looked in Nissan courtesy but couldn't find them pls link or part # thank thank

 

I believe they are:

2 x http://www.courtesyparts.com/54050m-...957_2046_2048&

2 x http://www.courtesyparts.com/55240-b...957_2046_2050&

 

Correct

As for the other question, I do recommend changing strut mounts. Moog strut mounts come with replacement strut bearings too which is nice. Part # for those are K90655. You need 2, for the fronts. Rear mounts are unnecessary to change.

 

My 2002 is coming up on a 4 strut replacement. Any point in doing the mounts? Or just the front mounts? Also, is there cause to replace the dust boots? I don't think I ever bought those specifically. I'm going from Tokico to KYB GR-2. Oh yeah at 246,xxx!