hows it goin guys
bought a maxima with burnt ecu
went got a another ecu and idle control and key and iginition from different runing vehicle

installed everything went to start ecu burnt
i sent original ecu to avpro to get fixed came in installed turn key in the ON position heard a pop in computer sta509a broke bad ecu

i dont know what to do next i sent ecu back to get fixed now i need help to figure out whats goin on
checked the idle control valve that on intake with
black and brown plug
ohm shows 36

 

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=...ghlight=Sta509

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=...ghlight=Sta509


Also unplug your electric motor mount behind radiator

 

links dont work

 

You want to measure the resistance of 4 different coils in the IACV (Intake Air Control Valve). The connector has 6 pins in it, arranged in 2 rows of 3 pins. In each row, use the center pin as a common connection and then measure resistance to each end pin. I can't remember the exact resistance, I think it's around 25 ohms. If you have a shorted coil, the reading will be around zero ohms.

The 2000 Max with automatic transmission has 2 electric motor mounts, so un-plug them both. If you have a manual trans, ignore this, you won't have them.

Front motor mount connector -



Rear motor mount connector -

 

checked ohm on the idle control valve
used row 1 pin 2 for connection
ohm reading
terminal
2 to 1=13.9ohm
2to3=00.2ohm

5to4=16.7ohm
5to6=21.1

used this to check
my idle is completely off the thottle body




Thanks Jay!

 

You have a shorted coil in the IACV. That's what's killing the ecu.

 

so idle control is bad
i have a different one
ohm reading is
2 to 1=22.2
2to3=22.3
5to4=22.3
5to6=33.0

why is the last one so high maybe its bad also

 

also how do i check the tps sensor would that cause a problem also

 

If you got it together great if not search "New ECU fried in seconds" very long posts (good information on a major design flaw) but this is no simple fix for the 5th generation. First, low 20s on the IACV ohms and also check continuity on each pin preferably with a Multimeter that sings. Second, the TSP, check starting pages EC-115 and EC-438 the key with the TSP is for the winding to be above the throttle pins and not below and I set it by continuity as in open or closed tricky but using those feeler gauges is impossible for me--be sure to note difference between switch and sensor . Also I am firm believer in "coolant bypass of the IACV" because the functional design is ridiculous (water and electricity?)

 

I've read the threads about frying the ECU a few times now, and I've seen it end up being the engine mounts. I have a 2001 A/T with electronic mounts.. would it be a good idea to just unplug them and leave them unplugged as a preventative measure? Would it cause the CEL to come on? (sorry to hi-jack, didn't seem new thread worthy)

 

Yes.
No.