Washers on the caliper won't work, as Knight said. You need ot find out exactly how much you need to get it centered, then machine that amount off the Caliper mounting surface.

 

the caliper sits on the side facing you not behind the bracket on the car, so the actual bracket on the maxima will stop you....unless you flatten the caliper bracket points like pizza dough you wont be able to pull the caliper closer to the car.

 

I agree though that washers are not the best thing to use here. If you can be certain everything is straight/flat and clean on your mating surfaces, then you should be machining the caliper precisely to allign it correctly.

 

The calipers are bolted on the wrong side of the knuckle mounts to add washers. Material has to be removed in order for the caliper to move in the proper direction. Adding washers at the tabs will push the caliper out, we need to pull the caliper in
I'm probably going to do this to my car in the near future, especially since stock rims will fit over them. I'm running 4th gen wheels for the winter and high offset for summer so there is a good reason to do this. I will probably end mill the tabs on the calipers mounting points and test fit to get it right.

 

Knights right i checked, i think both issues can be fixed by finding the right rotor, any rotor size database out there?

 

Dba rotors show all the sizes on their website but I don't think you can enter the size you want and it will spit out model numbers.
If you know what cars use 66.1 hub bore you can look them up and try to find the right size.
Also hat offset might come into play. I don't think anyone gives that info

 

So i bought these dual pistons of a 350z locally for about 100 for the pair used. i had a 5.5 gen maxima spindle and 04 maxima rotor to test fit. The bracket and the caliper are locked on the rotor. This does verifies that either the roof of the mounting bracket and caliper need to be grinded down 2-3mm or rotors milled down 2-3 mm.