Any dyno graphs?

 

Proved to whom? We're also still waiting on your dyno results to show us all the mad HP you've gained.

 

Ohai!

How's da Paffy?

 

i second this ive worked at a shop and we have had numerous cars come in with blown alt fuses

 

I'll make this simple for you. Ready?


Your crappy lights were, to you, a baseline of performance. Doing what you did helped. But your "baseline performance" is what is known as SH!TTY GROUNDING!!! And that's POOR PERFORMANCE to the rest of us.

Now, your car is acting a lot better...so to you, that's a huge performance gain. But to us it's called NORMAL. Your grounding situation was sh!tty to begin with.


Welcome to normal.

 

iPhones are hard to type on brother.

 

fixed

 

Yes...since they automatically provide suggestions for misspelled words and automatically capitalizes the first letter of each sentence after a period. Of course you have to enable those settings (by the way they are enabled by default so you must have turned them off if you don't have them enabled). Very difficult indeed...

I have an iPhone and do just fine by the way...

 

Only thing I WILL give the iPhone over the Droid is that its autocorrect dictionary is a little sharper. And the keyboard is a bit more accurate.

Other than that. Still love my Galaxy S2 more.

 

Another question do you honestly think we are just picking on you because you are new? that everybody on this forum has just come down on you INCLUDING the mods. That we were just waiting for you to come through the door and **** it we gonna azz rape his post.

We are trying to stop you from ruining your car. If you fry your ECU thinking you are the best and most resourceful electrician that's ever lived, its a +$2000 to get a new ecu and no you cannot run to the junkyard to get an ECU for any maxima 99 on up. You have to go to through the dealer and you have to get it reprogrammed.

So just listen, no grounding makes any maxima faster, just makes its electrical system a little bit more stable and that only really helps if you have sh1tty grounding to begin with, its just placebo that your feeling. Save yourself the trouble that its going to cause later on and take those wires off the positive side of the battery. Thats just asking for trouble.

 

Galaxy S3 with Swype FTW.

 

Still waiting for theses scientific manors of testing and resulting data. Please amaze me...

 

I'll take my paid for (thank you company) iPhone...

 

I second the paid for part. I get $200 every two years and $85 a month for my Samsung. Just sucks I can't root because I am stuck using Good for Enterprise.

 

I have Swype on my S2 as well. I'm not really a fan of it...haha. I prefer the old chicken-peck method with my thumbs. Swype is good for sending quick texts when you're driving or otherwise busy. Which...I'd never, ever do something like that.

My buddy just picked up an S3. Both phones are awesome. The S3 doesn't really seem to have any improvements over the S2, though, short of a slightly faster processor. I upgraded my S2 to ICS as soon as I bought it, and it's just as reliable as my buddy's S3.

Now I'm waiting for Jellybean to come out for the S2. I know it's already out for the 3...

 

I will be shocked if it turns out to be actual manors for testing.

 

Oh okay.

Well you win this time.

 

Yeah, my GF has the S2 and the only real difference seems to be a slightly thinner profile and slightly larger screen. That and the 4G that's not available in my area yet.

 

The point in my picture where R1 and R2 meet does not need to be a conductor as long as the battery connects to the chassis "somewhere" (as a conductor). The chassis will only be used for conducting electricity from other remote chassis grounds (on other circuits) are needing to get back to the battery.... but not for the engine-to-chassis-to-battery cables.

 

4G LTE ftw.

Sadly, the 4G on my S2 is faster than my home internet...

I don't think the S3 is really any thinner. Honestly, with the case off my S2, I can barely tell it's in my pocket.

 

SHUT UP U HO, U JUS' USIN' DEM BIG WORDZ N ****!!1!2!

 

Crusher.

 

waT?

 

neither do you

Using "two (2)" ground cables makes no difference. Reducing the resistance makes a difference, which is what you achieved by using 2 cables. But you could just as easily have use one (1) 0GA wire to get the same result. Naturally when you are using 4GA wire to do a man's job, you're going to need to use it in more than one place because it's not all that thick.

And your "guaranteed gain in resistance" is the bolt's fault (well really your fault for not keeping your shiit clean and maintained), not the chassis' fault. If you keep everything clean, the resistance of the chassis (between any 2 points on the chassis) will never change with any multimeter you can afford unless you are measuring it FROM a rusty/dirty point. If you measure from shiny metal to shiny metal it will never change.

But the metal under the rust and under the paint (especially the thick frame rails) is so abundant and plentiful that you'll break the car in half from a lack of structural integrity before you have an issue passing electrons across it. Which giving your lack of interest in math and science, you probably have no idea what an electron is.

 

Conductor is a big word.....

 

1986 Dodge Diplomat. You were close.

 

all dem wrdz b 2 big man.

 

:metalmax:

 

when the amateur is stupid enough to think the expert is wrong, there's a problem.

I have an experiment for you tho.. replace EVERY fuse in your car with a nice thick piece of jumper wire, since as we all know, fuses have resistance inside them. Then install the biggest amp and subwoofer you can find, and run it off your windshield wiper circuit. Then sit back and enjoy the show.

 

I guess you're right... S2= 0.33" S3= 0.34" lol

I love my home internet. I'm one of the lucky ones. Phone's 3G sucks azz though.

 

This is better than shark week.......

 

http://forums.maxima.org/other-cars/643154-ohai-2.html

 

Oh. Durr.

Reading comprehension > me.

 

i drew a picture of YOUR car sorry i forgot the dryer duct but it was intended to be an exploded (no pun intended ) view not a plan (something you don't understand the concept of) view.

and idfk man, i dont work on 4th gens or 4th gens or whatever the **** you have. But the electrical concepts don't change from car-to-car unless you end up with a positive ground car from the early 20th centry, or a car running a 6v system or a 24v system... 12v-with-negative-grund is pretty well understood by the rest of us tho.

 

I will pay $100 right now to see this. I really would.

 

You stuff is brighter because you fixed a problem with your ground. Congrats, you have a normal brightness gauge cluster. Same for responsiveness, it is now normal.

I have added a grounding kit to my car and also removed it. I have alot more in my car that would make me feel a difference in the butt dyno like you are talking. The difference is just not there. What you are feeling is a fix to your problem.

I had a similar feeling when I fixed my MAF for the first time. I had never driven the car with a working one. It was like a whole new car. Difference is I didn't come here and tell everyone replacing my MAF with a new one made it faster and more responsive. It made my car normal again.

Also you don't have a cold air intake. A cheap short tube on ebay and a filter from autozone will give you more gains that that awful laundry system you have. Unless you funnel that tip OUTSIDE of the engine bay you will always be getting warm air. I don't care what you say. That is why you don't see many true CAI for our car and the ones you did see required drilling past the battery to put the intake into the wheel well.

:metalmax:

replace swype with swift key flow though. it's still beta but my god its great.

 

i'm going to have to call pot-kettle for suggesting brake work to someone whose car is in a marginal state.

 

you mean if his voltage regulator crapped itself at high RPM?

 

i never said your upgrades "don't work". I said that you don't understand much of the things involved in how it worked, how you could have done it differently (and more safely) and still had it work, and the idea that just because it works now doesn't mean it will work forever.

Case in point, a guy with a Porsche 911 who was trying to be a backyard mechanic decided to experiment with his car's timing. He bumped it up a little bit, the car got faster. He bumped it up some more. Car got faster again. He was so excited how he was seeing real and immediate results from his modifications. So he cranked the timing up further still and the car was like a stabbed rat, greased lightning, a bottle rocket in july.

Until it started running rough and performing poor a few weeks later... then he took it to a trained mechanic (my friend and former coworker). Mechanic pulled out the spark plugs, which ALL had their electrodes burnt into nonexistence. Mechanic replaced his plugs, set the timing back to stock and said "don't touch it again". If you want a faster 911, buy the Turbo.