ffcbairn

Details: Cali spec 2000, I had P0430. I bought an aftermarket pre-cat, but couldn't get it installed. I then made the decision to gut the pre-cat and install nonfoulers, which I did successfully.

I am now getting P0158 - O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

I am trying to run down what could be causing this so was hoping someone else might have experienced the same thing. Couldn't find any results searching here.

I don't think I have installed the nonfouler wrong, I followed these instructions to the letter.

I did see a couple non-maxima people suggest adding a third nonfouler; however, due to space constraints I don't think a third one would fit on the front pre-cat.

Anybody got any ideas? Possible I damaged the O2 during reinstallation?

Aviation005

Have you tried without the fouler? I have read some people do no get codes when gutting. It may be worth a try given your situation. Be sure to clear the light when trying!

maybe the o2 was damaged during the gut/remove? maybe try switching them to see if the code changes

Galactica

iTrader: (5)

Subscribed. This will be interesting to see how it gets fixed. What about just using 1 fouler instead of 2? I'm not sure how the voltage readouts are supposed to be though..

ffcbairn

Seems the first thing should be to pull the nonfouler and see what it does without that. I didn't even think of that, even though now I do recall seeing some people who only needed it for rear precat. If it still registers I will try it with 1.

I assume you mean try switching it with the Bank 1 Sensor 2 to see how the codes change as a response to that?

03blackSE

If the bank 2 sensor 2 is reading a high voltage that means your O2 is sniffing too much exhaust fumes and your antifouler isn't working. Do you have a picture of the antifouler you purchased/installed? It may not be long enough or the hole may be too big.

A decent shop should have a OBDII hookup that can read the O2 sensor voltages in real time. When I was diagnosing my own pre-cat gutting antifouler trick the sensor 2 readings were around 0.1-0.4V. Whereas the sensor 1 readings would go up to 0.8-0.9V when revving. Your code indicates your sensor 2 is reading too high probably in the neighbourhood of the sensor 1 readings.

The good news is your bank 2 sensor 2 O2 sensor isn't broken and working just fine...

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

There are 2 high voltage codes:

1. P1038 (bank 1), P1058 (bank 2)
Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 MAX VOLTAGE MONTIORING

2. P1040 (bank 1), P1060 (bank 2)
Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 HIGH VOLTAGE


Testing for P1058:

Engine temp - operating temp
Rev up from idle to 2000 RPM
Monitor H02S2 Voltage during this test, spec is 0-0.3V <--> 0.6-1.0V
This fault is for Max voltage, which means that it's probably reading 1.0V or higher, but you need to confirm that.

Things that cause this fault:

-Open or shorted wiring
-Bad Oxygen Sensor #2
-Fuel pressure
-Injectors
-Intake air leaks

It's safe to say the last three are highly unlikely.
I'd start by checking the voltages in the test provided. Post results. If the voltage is consistantly high that means the O2 sensor is reading 'lean', or, excess Oxygen.
Assuming the sensor and wiring are good, this is likely caused by the sensor being TOO far out of the exhaust stream, if that's the case turning the non-fouler would likely help (if you got the 90* one)

What one DID you get, anyways?

There's not really one thing it could be more than others though, it could easily be the wiring, sensor itself, or it's just installed too far away and isn't seeing enough exhaust flow.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

My above post should clear up that the quoted post is backwards.

High O2 voltage = Lean
Low O2 voltage = Rich

If the problem was his O2 seeing too much exhaust fumes his voltage would be low, not high. He would also likely be getting the P0420 code, not a high voltage code.

03blackSE

Tuner you're correct. I mixed it up with the engine code I got; P0171 which is engine running lean as a result of my bank 1 sensor 1 reading low voltage (consistently 0.07-0.08V).

Aviation005

your welcome. tuner does not get the credit. I said it first

dared3vil0

Haven't you realized your like the kid sitting at the adults table yet? When you talk, People just smile and pat you on the top of your head and tell you to go play with the little kids, Nothing you say matters.

T_Behr904

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Cool I wasn't sure until I looked it all up for him to verify.
Easy as pie to mix up, just wanted to clear it up before the poor guy jacked the car up or cut anything, etc

ffcbairn

Got the HELP! brand model 42009 18mm non-fouler which has two to a pack.. Drilled out the first one, capped it with the second as in the picture below:



If you are telling me that it may just be not getting enough exhaust then it would seem the logical troubleshooting step would be removing the non-fouler and seeing if it still registers. If that doesn't work then I could try just the drilled out non-fouler without the second one capping it.

I was under the impression high voltage meant rich vs low voltage for lean.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0158

DjHackStyle

I think the FSM page EC-255 should be better to read than those generic obd pages. In the FSM it does say 0-0.3V is a LEAN condition and 0.6-1.0V is a rich condition

ffcbairn

Reading the FSM page then it sounds like it would throw that code whether voltage is high or low? I guess that is the part that is confusing me, is the code description "high voltage" different from the actual function, high or low voltage.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Looks like I stand corrected, I read that completely wrong in the FSM. Thanks guys for clearing that up, and my apologies for confusing the OP!!!!


OP: Next diagnostic, shove a small amount of steel wool in the non fouler and reinstall the O2. Don't put it in a way that it can fall out or get pulled into the engine or sucked out the exhaust. This will decrease the gasses the O2 sees.

I'm partial to the 90* style of non-fouler, those straight ones dont seem to work as good in all my readings. the 90* style works WAY more consistantly.

Again, very sorry I mixed that up and sent you on a loop

03blackSE

My advice on the 90* antifouler is to make sure you put it on your Y-pipe or front pre-cat BEFORE installing it back on the car. I made the mistake of putting everything back together first and then tried installing the 90* antifouler. No go! Not enough room for the 90* bend to be twisted on. FML...

That being said, I have a similar straight antifouler as posted above and the real time voltages I observed are pretty tight - fluctuates from 0.2-0.4V.

JonBlz

iTrader: (11)

If anyone needs the fouler I have one already done and all I bought it a while back and never installed it went with the O2 Sim instead whoever wants it hit me up

Aviation005

they have school for that

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Wow.
Please start another thread so everyone can discuss this.

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

o2 simulator

/thread

ffcbairn

In searching and talking to some folks on my other post I was not at all impressed by the results of the O2 sims. It seemed like a number of people installed them only to have them not work, or they work, but then break often. I am not completely ruling out the possibility that I will eventually have to get one, but would like to play with this for a few weeks to see if I can get it resolved with the non-foulers.

Gonna get it jacked up this weekend and try the steel wool, and if that doesn't work I am gonna try removing the non-fouler after that. If those two things fail I will probably try the 90* non-fouler, and if that fails then I will go to the double sim.

sontakke

What was the time gap between installing non-foulers and getting the P0158? I got few years of successful no P0430 code with non-fouler until recently it started giving me P0158.

ffcbairn

About 80 miles