El_PrOfE

iTrader: (4)

Each time a code has fired letting me know of the bad coil. I have replaced 3 different coils, everytime I replace a coil the problem goes away but soon after I would say about 1 month down the road the problem persists. Today it happened to me again and the symptoms are always the same: Hard Idle, loss of power, and the car feels like it's jumping when I am coming to a stop at a light or stop sign. My question is could it be another issue that is causing my coils to fail? I recently changed the MAF and one of the crankshaft sensors as my car went into a ditch full of water back in June or July. Has anyone else had a similar issue or can offer me what else I can look into to stop having to replace my coils. This will be my 4th replacement.

zsolt117

how many miles are on your car and the coils if they are factory?

L_U_D_I_AMaxima

iTrader: (3)

after messing around for almost 6 months tracing those codes I just gave up, called Dave B and ordered 6 new gray dot coils with oem spark plugs... cost me about $600 for everything shipped... about 2 years latter and almost 40K I have no issues with the coils what so ever... no offense, but there is no point of creating a thread about "bad ignition coils"
its a well know fact that the coils on the 5th gen are complete junk, order the "new & upgraded" gray dot coils with the oem plugs, install and live a happy and "coil trouble" free life ever after...

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

New OEM coils are the answer.....screw all that Oem replacement crap..from AZ, an elsewhere.....But the other preson sounds like they have a crank/cam sensor issue.....

El_PrOfE

iTrader: (4)

As much as I would like to $600 is hard for me right now. I had to get bwd ones. My car has about 150k miles on it. Ill have this one replaced and hopefully itll be the end of it. The car has not been the same since I had it fixed after the accident. It kind of sucks.

L_U_D_I_AMaxima

iTrader: (3)

trust me... it was not in my budget neither but when it comes to vital electronic parts on the engine i chose only OEM... there are many threads here about people using aftermarket coils with no luck... it just sucks that Nissan never issued a recall on those knowing that they go bad... unfortunately the only way to bring the car back is to get the oem coils and correct spark plugs for the engine... the VQ engine is on the 5th and 5.5 get in my opinion are really picky when it comes service. Sure I didn't like the fact I had to spend $600 on a simple engine tune up but ever since I did it the engine runs smooth as butter... a friend of mine could not believe that my 5th gen has almost 200K... its a well balanced engine that is just high on maintenance... the next big $$$ that I spend were on the Idle Control Valve out the door it was $375 from nissan but I again I don't regret any of those expenses b/c now my car runs nice and smooth... and yes if I take easy on the hwy at about 65-70mph I do get a solid 30mpg and I am still on the original oem clutch at 198,XXX miles... the moral of the story here is: "if you want to play, you have to pay..."

L_U_D_I_AMaxima

iTrader: (3)

a simple test with a volt meter will determine that... but even if the engine needs a crank/cam sensors I would still recommend OEM

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

make sure your grounds are good and sound.

El_PrOfE

iTrader: (4)

so i went to the mechanic, and as it turns out one of the coils was loose. so he just clipped it back in and the problem went away. I drove it on the highway for a few miles and it seems to have fixed the issue. I will continue to monitor it. Im going back to the auto part store to get a refund so I got lucky there and saved a few bucks. my problem that ive always had since I got the car back was that I every now and then it hesitates sometimes like i hit the gas and it crawls then after a second or so it kicks back up and drives fine. My engine light is not on so i dont know how to diagnose that.