For what it's worth, I think cylinder 1 misfire is common and is same **** that I had on mine. I've only replaced that one coil so far, and that was around 80k miles and I'm at about 103k miles now.

That said, they don't always all go bad.

 

I happened to be in the garage when my wife started the 03 this morning, and the starter turned over slower than normal, prompting me to check the battery voltage and the Altenator output voltage and even at 3000 rpm I'm only producing 12.8v...Damn it's altenator replacement time...Anyway I've ordered a Hitachi remanufactured Hitachi unit and hopefully it's here tomorrow...I'll purchase the possible failed part once I remove the defective altenator and disassemble, inspect, and test it....I'm sure it's the IC module/regulator that's defective and there's a web site, I went too that offers the internal components of altenators...My buddy's 350z failed about a year ago and I was ready to replace the failed part until I proved it to be the stator windings shorted out! Anyway it's a $30 core and I'll fix it, have it bench ran under load and set it to the side for a rainig day!

 

Today i did the GAB mod hanger method. Also did some detailing on the interior. Then it started snowing so i had to quit. Added a picture of the car with snow. My bad its to cold right now to take more.

 

:

 

Altenator made it here yesterday,So I removed the defective Altenator and installed the New altenator....pulled tensioner pulley, fans, and radiator....Got everything installed and topped off Coolant and started and volt was only 12.5v-12.8v !!!! WTF!!! Performed a Battery test with my analyzer and it should my Red Top Otptima having only 490cca compared to the rated 790 cca....I let it run for awhile and since the field voltage was low the was low....after about 20-30 min of idling the output was now a solid 13.0v and retested the battery and 545cca...So I'm headed in the right direction I'll let Advance test the defective altenator that wouldn't put out more than 12.0-12.4v....

 

^
You got a defective alternator!!

Ahaha welcome to the club

 

^^ Nicely done on the alternator, big issue taken care of is always great!

As for my 5th gen, drove her to stealership, bought a new (7th gen) brilliant silver twin for her.

Cursed the salesman for making her 1st tank of gas be regular 87...What an idiot.

Planning on AE pedals install, full engine cleaning after the long winter, replacing all remaining Jap hose clamps with worm clamps, etc...soon as it gets warmer out again. Cant wait for the warm

 

^ Congrats on the purchase!

I had my front rotors resurfaced and did my second AT drain/fill.

 

Thanks!

Good work on the rotors and drain/fill, keeping the maxi nice and fresh.

 

My tranny bogs for the first block of driving, going from first to second every time, the same type of bog, but after that first shift then it's alright, should I flush?

 

Fresh indeed. I recently bought my wife a sweet-a minivan so the Max needs to last me a good long while . I also restored the headlights.

I'd recommend a Drain/Fill over a full on flush just there's no confusion. The drain/fill process is cake and is a relatively cheap maintenance related thing to do.

 

Nice. And I hear that. Trying to make mine last as well. Plenty of older Altimas/Hondas/Toyotaa and other cars at the dealer parking last night with people trying to upgrade. All those cars were at least half the age of my Maxima yet mine was the only one that left the lot and was in way better shape than any of those.

Definitely do drain/fill not full flush, especially if your tranny has already exhibited slipping. Flush can make things even worse.

 

New battery to bring it back from the dead

 

Is the difference just not running new atf through or what? What is the difference between drain fill and flush

 

A full on flush would have to be done at a dealership or some other auto-shop. They'll hook your tranny up to a machine that removes all the fluid, forces a solution through the transmission to remove sludge and other deposits, and then fills it up with new fluid.

A drain/fill is basically the same procedure as an oil change, just with your transmission. Pull the plug, drain the fluid, fill it back up.

 

Ohhhh yeah in that case, that's what I meant

 

You bought another Maxima?

 

What is that a joke? Lol

This is a Maxima forum after all, george

Btw, it's not another Maxima its to replace the wifes 7th gen that just got totaled.

 

Omg. I hope she's okay!!!

 

Yikes! Didn't realize the purchase was prompted by a wreck. I hope all is well.

Congrats on the purchase still, but that's a sucky reason to have to buy a car.

 

Thanks guys! Luckily she was fine and I have to say 7th gen held up very well in the wreck.

It sucks for sure, having that be the reason for a new car. But, at least we got a better one than last time and upgraded.

 

Installed homemade grounding kit...

 

^
Good job

 

Props for making your own. It's so easy and fun, better than paying for it.

 

Thank you D.Stillwell ! Yea definitely almost free!
Thank you george_...!

I used 2 gauge 99% ofc wire

Big three is next....

 

Picked up 6th gen rotors and Calipers to start my Big Brake Kit 😍😍

 

 

And i replaced my old horn with a new one from a i30

 

Installed a new K & N air filter.... Also finished my Big Brake Kit upgrade for my front brakes 😍😍😍🙌🙌

 

installed grounding kit and half-assed cleaned engine bay along the way. also dealt with this corrosion issue

cleaned this side


replaced the other piece for the positive terminal


was dark when i finished so didn't get final pics of the work

 

Pulled the blanket off of it and took it to the body shop for some TLC.

 

Redtop1 (original Red Top battery) was replaced with a New Optima Red Top battery (RedTop2) last night after RedTop1 measured an anemic 145 CCA from a 720 CCA rated battery....I charged the RedTop1 for about 6-7 hrs last night and the CCA were then measured at about 575 CCA.... I'll install RedTop1 in my 4th Gen Maxima and monitor the CCA over the next week or 2, just to see if it starts to decline again and then I'm sure I have a damaged cell internally...My altenator took longer than I thought, usually rockauto takes about 2-3 days to deliver whatever I order and this time it was a 5 day wait....So I may have burned or damaged a battery cell riding around with a low output or no output altenator.....Redtop2 measured a whooping 840 CCA before I installed it, and my new Altenator's output is a staedy 13.0v- 13.2v under a load!

 

Nicely done Cmax. I may get myself a redtop soon as well, my 3yr old duralast is not likely to last another winter.

 

Rechecked CCA on both RedTop1 and RedTop2 and both are still rocking....RedTop1 isn't hooked up to anything yet and still has 643 CCA, RedTop2 measured 853 CCA...Is it overcharging? The both batterys are identical and are rated at 720 CCA....

 

Bought an AEM dry flow cone filter and swapped out my cheapo Spectre oil filter.

 

Good move, that's a way better setup. AEM FTW

 

That's what I figured...The whole oil thing is annoying.

 

I've got a couple of AEM's 3" and 6" cone filters and I think R2C's filters flow smoother....especially the 6" cone filter.

 

Agreed. R2C filters are excellent, I'd put them #1 overall, followed by Amsoil and AEM.

But, you can also buy 2 comparable AEM's for the price of 1 R2C. They are expensive, and I'd say would provide most benefit in forced induction motors, not as much for an N/A Maxima.

Also, I really like the AEM material for how clean it remains, because it pretty much never gets dirty for me and I've seen tons of sand and dust this winter. Id think the R2C mesh on top of the filter element might make it harder to keep clean long term?

My AEM 6" vel. stack flows well, you can hear it just sucking air even sitting at idle.

 

03 SE TE. Replaced rear calipers, rotors and pads. Caliper locked and ruined the rotors.

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