Motor Trend has 2000 auto at 8.1 and 5sp at 6.7. I guess at 17 yrs, and non professional driver, 10.2 sec not too bad.

 

who else forgot about this thread?
i did.

Made a wing nut type of terminal to pull the battery out easier and some thick azz welding wire. might as well.
ps, looks like flickr doesn't like this site.

 

I have a 2003 Infiniti I35. I replaced the entire AC system - compressor, AC hoses, condenser + drier. My old AC was not functioning and the local garage wanted $2000 to fix it. LOL. I ordered the parts off amazon and did it myself. This was my first time doing AC work and I learned a lot by doing it. Now the air coming out of my vents is an icy 25 degrees F. Total cost was around $200. A fun project if you have some spare time.

 

25F eh? I'd pay to see that reading. Might wanna get that checked out. Your coil is going to ice up and you'll be back to no AC in no time.


You forgot to replace your evap coil

 

Replaced #5 coil with a "hitatchi" from cockauto.

Works fine though
runs good just weird that it doesn't have the brand name on it.
old one had 0.11 more resistance on it.

how do the NGK g-powers look? they're about 35,000mi old.
Didn't smell like fuel and wasn't fouled so
left the oil and kept the plug. recovered my lost 3hp.

 

Thnaks for the tip. The mechanic detrmined that my evaporator was working fine. So I did not mess with it because it meant taking apart my dash. The vent temperature was 25 degrees in the winter but it is now in the 30's since it is the summer and it is warmer outside. I will replace the evaporator if I need to at a later time.

 

I'm kidding. Nice work! That's a big job most people won't even consider. The problem with your temps is that a frozen coil restricts air flow. My suggestion to have it checked was passive. 25F is unheard of, and you in fact have a problem if your vent temp is below freezing.

 

Wokring on the 03 I bought earlier this week for $500. Had already pulled the old (dented) oil pan, and the bad (covered in oil) alternator. Got the upper intake off today, pulled the spark plugs and coils (get to that in a second)- and front valve cover gasket was major leaking so I removed it.






Ordered new plugs, valve cover and upper intake gaskets, and a bottle of AT-205 from rockauto yesterday, plus I have the new oil pan and alternator on the way from ebay. Going to be a fun week!

Re the coil packs: I have no idea what I'm looking at. I have at least 3 different brands here. These two both say "Hanshin" and appear to have a part number 22448-8J115:



These 3 have no name on them, they all appear to be the same EXCEPT one (on the far right) has an extra little rubber "boot" sticking out the bottom...:



And finally, the last one says "OEM" but with an apparent different part number (111018) and on the other side cleary says "Made in China".



Are ANY of these coils actual OEM Nissan parts??

 

I changed out my valve covers after finding massive amounts of oil in the firewall sparkplugs. New plugs and cleaned/serviced my coilpacks.

Last week cleaned tcb and maf along with eam drop in filter.

Two weeks from now, headers, spacers, catback.

After that comes suspension. Thinking Megan... Recomendations around that or less expensive, please.

 

The little extra boot is the inside folding outward. Mine did the same.

 

Happen to be paired with headers? I ask because I'm about to do same and wondering as to sound. Deep and bassy or raspy?

 

V6=raspy, V8=deep and bassy

 

I had to tackle my AC system out of necessity. I live in the south where summer temperatures can reach 100 degrees with 100% humidity. So not having a functional AC is more than an inconvenience; it is a health hazard. I took the car to a couple of shops. One shop wanted to replace compressor, AC hoses, condensor + driver for $2000. The second shop kept telling me that they think it is a leak. After bringing it back and forth a half dozen times, I came to the conclusion that the second shop have no idea what they are doing.

I read a bunch of threads here and when I realized that I could replace the parts myself for <$300, I got brave and it all worked out. I learned so much about car AC's. Quite gratifying.

 

changed spark plugs from Gpower to laser iridiums
one of the rear tube seals was leaking so i had to do this today.

The Gpowers were 35,000 old they still looked good but the new ir plugs
did make it run better and cleaning the throttle body cleaned up the idle too.

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/156811228@N08/, on Flickr

 

I just did the same job. Both valve cover gaskets and intake plenum gasket. I also replaced the PCV valve and the back side cam position sensor. There was a lot of oil all over it and I wasn't sure if it came from the valve cover or the o ring from the position sensor.

I also replaced the VIAS and the right rear ABS sensor. I reset my codes and everything is off for now. I'm sure once I start driving it more some will come back. I had a EVAP code, so I think that one will return.

 

I finally took time to fix the Bose sub. A simple reflow fixed the issue.

 

Yo what up yall. I just adjusted the camber today felt like it was off a little now its good but im on to the next issue lol

 

I really like that paint color. What is it called?

 

Pearl merlot or merlot pearl. Stock maxima color.

 

Yep...62k miles

 

I plugged in a VAG COM KKL adaptor that just arrived and fired up nissan datascan II, and found an error code thats been causing all of my problems P1335, and I suspect all of the previous owners problems, then I ordered a new crank sensor, and went inside with a smile on meh face

 

Well I just installed a new set of NITTO 555 G2's, another set of Front Powerstop 6th Gen Rotors w/Z26 Ceramic fiber pads, New Front Axles, Installed clean 6" POP' Charger Air filter...
Next items to be worked will be as follows:Fuel filer, Fuel pump, fuel strainer and ES subframe poly bushings...

 

Fixed what i thought was a high idle after taking intake off to replace rear tube seals.

it would have a high idle when hot and while driving
then go back to normal at a complete stop.
hard down-shift when coming to complete stop, like down-shifting into 1st at 1,000rpm. CLUNK.

other threads said it needs an idle relearn or if not, clean the idle control valve, maybe i have a vacuum leak.

so i popped the hood since i have time finally and guess what....

The cruise control cable was juuuuuuust alittle too tight to where if the long cable moves from engine movement
it'll slightly tug the TB open just slightly.... and close at a stand still.


maybe i reversed where the cruise and throttle cables go on the TB because the throttle cable was on a loose side too. Hmm.
All is well now.

Thought my tranny was totally fvcked, or my icv. sheesh.

 

I blacked out the chrome around the windows.

 

I continued to remove all the components between me and the power steering rack. Removed a strut, driver inner and outer tie rod, y-pipe all to get to two bolts on the steering rack. I called it a day when the rear bolts on the sub frame refused to let go.

I started this job 2.5 years ago without a garage, or basic mechanical tools. I purchased the car for a grand to be a cheap daily. One day i noticed it was leaking p/s fluid on the exhaust. I figured it was just a p/s hose... I was wrong.

 

Added Roof Rack.

 

changed oil to 0w40
noticed i had the crossover breather hose disconnected front the front side of the engine.

now i'm wondering if that's why i'm getting like 30 miles per tank better on mpg somehow
and not from the new plugs. hmmm.

 

Changed my starter. The short and long bolts really inconvenient to get to. The hoses and cables in the way make getting the right depth socket very important. Plus, with big hands, there's not a lot of room to work in there.

 

Only issue I had on 3.0 starters is that the bolts are glued in there. I had to use 1/2" ratchet with all my strength for a guy stuck at a gas station one time. The others weren't as bad, but not loosey goosey like every 3.5 engine/tranny bolt.

 

Put in a new alternator. The main issue I had was the tensioner nut rounding off when I went to get the belt off.

 

When I got this car from my brother, the AC control bulbs were all burnt out. I finally replaced the bulbs to LED...so much brighter now...now to do the speedometer/rpm gauge cluster...

 

Addressing MIL p0400. Might as well clean TB while here. So you guys think it's got some build up? Lol This is a first for me on the 3.0. I'm use to the 3.3 vg33e. EGR so much easier on the 3.3. I had a hell of a time getting the small tube out. The studs kept me from just lifting it up and out. I had to bend the main tube down just a tad. Also I cannot for the life of me disconnect the egr temp sensor connector because I cant see it. Trying the blind feel thing not working at all. Is there something that needs removed so I can disconnect it? Dont know if I can post a question here. If not then just don't answer and I'll get the hint. Wish me luck.

Carbon filled.

 

Finished painting stock wheels using VHT Graphite paint and VHT clearcoat. Also installed wood grain console and door pieces from parts I got at Pull-a-part.

VHT GRAPHITE WHEEL PAINT

 

Took her out today for a blast at high speeds - 5 grand in 5th gets crazy at times
There is no one on the road here in NY.

 

Hell yeah! **** Cuomo and all crooked know-nothing politicians!

 

been smelling coolant for some time now and the fluid jug would always go down.
couldn't figure out where until now that's been very hot.

the neck of the radiator is cracked. ordered a new denso unit from rock auto.
while looking stuff over i checked tranny fluid level on an even floor and turns out it was 1/2 qt overfilled.
maybe it could fix some weird shifting issues. idk.

 

overfilled doesn't affect them, every single one I've seen is overfilled by a quart or more lol

 

idk i think it could be running alittle better maybe, maybe not.

check it out. crack all the way across.
couldn't figure it out for like years and **** feels like but hope it's good now.
good thing it's just a daily i don't even floor it.
maybe my engine is damaged i'm going to do a compression test soon.
never pressurized i'm sure there's some hot spots in the head.

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/156811228@N08/, on Flickr

 

That's actually odd. Every single plastic radiator I've seen cracks near the inlet, since it's the hottest. Hell, I had one that was leaking, but I was confused until I pulled the hose. The neck CRUMBLED in my hands. I have no idea how it didn't just puke everywhere.

 

I decided to give the intake system an overhaul so I bought a remanufactured OEM throttle body, all new OEM air and coolant hoses, all new hose clamps, and I also got all new OEM coils and replaced the spark plugs while I was in there. Cleaned her up today - still amazes me how much I like this car after owning it for 16 years. New cars (aside from some sports cars) just don’t have the same type of fun factor: the road feel, engine response, lack of electronic nannies, etc. make this car so much fun to drive and it does exactly what you want it to do. Even if it rides a little harsh and has more road noise, I still love to drive it. I also own a 981 Porsche Boxster S and this old girl still brings a smile to my face.

240k miles and looking like new!