Wheel bearing/hub issue
05-01-2014, 08:38 PM
#1
Wheel bearing/hub issue
I have an 02' SE AT Maxima, and recently I've noticed a whirring noise coming from my passenger side wheel at low speeds of 20-30mph. Once I get passed 40mph and above it goes away until I slow down again.
According to my searching, I'm suspecting a wheel bearing issue here. I've purchased new Timken wheel bearing/hub assemblies for both sides, and I am sure I can remove/install the wheel bearing, hub, and knuckle if everything was pressed together already.
Trying to be as cost effective as possible, I was wondering if it would be better to buy a used knuckle and get the new wheel bearing and hub pressed on that one, install it myself, or just take it to the shop and let them do the entire job.
I've found a pair of knuckles for $100 at a junkyard pending visual inspection, and a shop has quoted me $120 for pressing labor...So i'm looking at an additional cost of $220 to do the install myself. Just looking for advice to see if this sounds reasonable...I don't mind paying for service, but not if I can do it myself!
According to my searching, I'm suspecting a wheel bearing issue here. I've purchased new Timken wheel bearing/hub assemblies for both sides, and I am sure I can remove/install the wheel bearing, hub, and knuckle if everything was pressed together already.
Trying to be as cost effective as possible, I was wondering if it would be better to buy a used knuckle and get the new wheel bearing and hub pressed on that one, install it myself, or just take it to the shop and let them do the entire job.
I've found a pair of knuckles for $100 at a junkyard pending visual inspection, and a shop has quoted me $120 for pressing labor...So i'm looking at an additional cost of $220 to do the install myself. Just looking for advice to see if this sounds reasonable...I don't mind paying for service, but not if I can do it myself!
05-01-2014, 09:02 PM
#3
Just asking, but why do you suspect you need to buy 2 whole knuckles to put the new bearings in. To me, it doesn't make sense buying the junkyard knuckles (they'll have the bearing and hub already in them) unless you just plan/hope on them being in good shape so you can slap em on as-is. I've replaced my bearings and I just removed my knuckles then took them to a shop up the street to press/repress the bearings. As a walk-in customer that same shop (mom-and-pop place) charged me $20 per side, so $120 does sound pretty high to me (just for pressing). You might consider shopping around to save some cash on that one (it doesn't take but a few minutes for them to do it with a proper press). Also, once you get a shop to take the old bearing out visually inspect the original hub for damage as 9-out-of-10 times the hub is still in good shape and you could return the hubs you bought to save cash. I know some will disagree and say you should always replace the hub (I don't) but your question was talking about saving money and I feel there's no need unless you see damage. Hope this helps.
Last edited by ManualMaxima; 05-01-2014 at 09:30 PM.
05-01-2014, 10:40 PM
#4
I appreciate the swift responses fellas. It's the front passenger side. I'll shop around to see who can effectively press these for me(no hammer time), and do the rest of the labor myself. To have wheel bearing/hub/knuckle already pre-assembled is the ultimate goal, so I'll just ask my gf or someone to take me to the shop to get it done being that this is my DD...Voila!
I am definitely going to change out the hubs though....me and peace of my mind hmph
I am definitely going to change out the hubs though....me and peace of my mind hmph
Last edited by jjubert; 05-01-2014 at 10:46 PM.
05-03-2014, 05:20 PM
#5
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: berkeley, ca
Posts: 107
yeah, its manageable diy. i would highly suggest an impact wrench for all 4 axle nuts and a torque wrench to get them to 180lbs-240lbs on fronts/ ?? rears. you can find all that good info in the FSM. hardest part is removing the ball joint nut. every other nut/bolts should not be problem with impact wrench/breaker bars. it can go easy if it doesn't stick on the threads, but for me and many others a dremel/or metal cutting handheld machine was the only way out.
it may be worth your while to look at all the joints and bushings since you have it all out. control arm bushings and ball joints. the bj's go bad faster than the front/rear bushings in the control arms, imo. tie rods ends, they connect to the steering knuckle, check the boots.
i refreshed items that were easy to get to and relatively cheap and good quality; i put in moog front sway bar endlinks and moog front sway bar bushings, napa tie rod ends, napa ball joints and timken hubs and bearing kit front and generic rear hubs, most parts from rock auto.
i got nutso with anti-sieze on all my parts that were out, first cleaned with liquid wrench and applied anti-sieze to most nuts, bolts and axle shafts, btw you have to pull axle shaft out of the hub/steering knuckle assembly and then you can remove it off the ball joint on the control arm, same for right/left sides.
i got the timken hub and bearing kit, there great after 10k+ miles, had them pressed in at a machine shop for about US$30 each hub/knuckle, so $60 total. the rears don't need bearings pressed into hubs, you have to buy the entire hub with bearings and make sure if you have ABS, you get the ones with the ABS sensor rings, check out rockauto.com they have pictures of the non-abs rear hubs and with abs hubs, the rears are much easier than the fronts, just plug and play.
i took a long time bc i dilly and dally over everything i can clean and lub, everything. most rubber boots were lightly cleaned and coated with sil glyde, as were most exposed plastic parts. i applied a small dab of dielectic grease to all electrical couplings and to most electrical rubber parts, like the spark plug ignition coils packs. liquid wrech, sil glyde, dielectic grease, anti-sieze, silicone and lithium grease are invaluable in protecting and weatherizing.
it may be worth your while to look at all the joints and bushings since you have it all out. control arm bushings and ball joints. the bj's go bad faster than the front/rear bushings in the control arms, imo. tie rods ends, they connect to the steering knuckle, check the boots.
i refreshed items that were easy to get to and relatively cheap and good quality; i put in moog front sway bar endlinks and moog front sway bar bushings, napa tie rod ends, napa ball joints and timken hubs and bearing kit front and generic rear hubs, most parts from rock auto.
i got nutso with anti-sieze on all my parts that were out, first cleaned with liquid wrench and applied anti-sieze to most nuts, bolts and axle shafts, btw you have to pull axle shaft out of the hub/steering knuckle assembly and then you can remove it off the ball joint on the control arm, same for right/left sides.
i got the timken hub and bearing kit, there great after 10k+ miles, had them pressed in at a machine shop for about US$30 each hub/knuckle, so $60 total. the rears don't need bearings pressed into hubs, you have to buy the entire hub with bearings and make sure if you have ABS, you get the ones with the ABS sensor rings, check out rockauto.com they have pictures of the non-abs rear hubs and with abs hubs, the rears are much easier than the fronts, just plug and play.
i took a long time bc i dilly and dally over everything i can clean and lub, everything. most rubber boots were lightly cleaned and coated with sil glyde, as were most exposed plastic parts. i applied a small dab of dielectic grease to all electrical couplings and to most electrical rubber parts, like the spark plug ignition coils packs. liquid wrech, sil glyde, dielectic grease, anti-sieze, silicone and lithium grease are invaluable in protecting and weatherizing.
Last edited by zenjia 03merlot; 05-03-2014 at 05:28 PM.
05-03-2014, 10:01 PM
#6
yeah, its manageable diy. i would highly suggest an impact wrench for all 4 axle nuts and a torque wrench to get them to 180lbs-240lbs on fronts/ ?? rears. you can find all that good info in the FSM. hardest part is removing the ball joint nut. every other nut/bolts should not be problem with impact wrench/breaker bars. it can go easy if it doesn't stick on the threads, but for me and many others a dremel/or metal cutting handheld machine was the only way out.
it may be worth your while to look at all the joints and bushings since you have it all out. control arm bushings and ball joints. the bj's go bad faster than the front/rear bushings in the control arms, imo. tie rods ends, they connect to the steering knuckle, check the boots.
i refreshed items that were easy to get to and relatively cheap and good quality; i put in moog front sway bar endlinks and moog front sway bar bushings, napa tie rod ends, napa ball joints and timken hubs and bearing kit front and generic rear hubs, most parts from rock auto.
i got nutso with anti-sieze on all my parts that were out, first cleaned with liquid wrench and applied anti-sieze to most nuts, bolts and axle shafts, btw you have to pull axle shaft out of the hub/steering knuckle assembly and then you can remove it off the ball joint on the control arm, same for right/left sides.
i got the timken hub and bearing kit, there great after 10k+ miles, had them pressed in at a machine shop for about US$30 each hub/knuckle, so $60 total. the rears don't need bearings pressed into hubs, you have to buy the entire hub with bearings and make sure if you have ABS, you get the ones with the ABS sensor rings, check out rockauto.com they have pictures of the non-abs rear hubs and with abs hubs, the rears are much easier than the fronts, just plug and play.
i took a long time bc i dilly and dally over everything i can clean and lub, everything. most rubber boots were lightly cleaned and coated with sil glyde, as were most exposed plastic parts. i applied a small dab of dielectic grease to all electrical couplings and to most electrical rubber parts, like the spark plug ignition coils packs. liquid wrech, sil glyde, dielectic grease, anti-sieze, silicone and lithium grease are invaluable in protecting and weatherizing.
it may be worth your while to look at all the joints and bushings since you have it all out. control arm bushings and ball joints. the bj's go bad faster than the front/rear bushings in the control arms, imo. tie rods ends, they connect to the steering knuckle, check the boots.
i refreshed items that were easy to get to and relatively cheap and good quality; i put in moog front sway bar endlinks and moog front sway bar bushings, napa tie rod ends, napa ball joints and timken hubs and bearing kit front and generic rear hubs, most parts from rock auto.
i got nutso with anti-sieze on all my parts that were out, first cleaned with liquid wrench and applied anti-sieze to most nuts, bolts and axle shafts, btw you have to pull axle shaft out of the hub/steering knuckle assembly and then you can remove it off the ball joint on the control arm, same for right/left sides.
i got the timken hub and bearing kit, there great after 10k+ miles, had them pressed in at a machine shop for about US$30 each hub/knuckle, so $60 total. the rears don't need bearings pressed into hubs, you have to buy the entire hub with bearings and make sure if you have ABS, you get the ones with the ABS sensor rings, check out rockauto.com they have pictures of the non-abs rear hubs and with abs hubs, the rears are much easier than the fronts, just plug and play.
i took a long time bc i dilly and dally over everything i can clean and lub, everything. most rubber boots were lightly cleaned and coated with sil glyde, as were most exposed plastic parts. i applied a small dab of dielectic grease to all electrical couplings and to most electrical rubber parts, like the spark plug ignition coils packs. liquid wrech, sil glyde, dielectic grease, anti-sieze, silicone and lithium grease are invaluable in protecting and weatherizing.
Thanks for the info, Berkeley in the house!!! I'll be taking all of this under consideration before I get started on the job...still waiting for more parts.
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