futurechad

ECM, not ESM, sorry.

Hey brilliant minds. I have a crazy issue I am facing..... Please help! My 2000 Maxima SE 5spd. Won't start. Here is the story:

I bought a new key (flip key like vw), programmed the keyless entry and tried to start the car. It slipped my mind that the keys are chipped and need to be programmed at the dealer. Thus the car cranks but will not start and the security light is now on.

I checked a few things I found for ideas to fix the car online, but no help.... I had it towed to the local Nissan dealership and they hooked it up to the computer to re-program the keys which was my best guess for fixing the issue. The scanner was unable to connect to the car... AT ALL!!!! Just a blank screen.

They said that the issue was for sure the ecm/ecu was fried and there also may be a need to replace the main wiring harness. I said go ahead and put in a used ecm (I found one that matched the car (100% sure)). That didn't fix the issue of the car being able to start and it also didn't make it possible for the scanner to connect to the ecm.

I am having a hard time believing that the wiring harness is bad. Any ideas?!?!

P.S. I'm running out of available funds for this project.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Do you have any check engine codes in the P16xx range? These are codes for the NATS immobilizer. The sensor box by the ignition switch could have left the world.

There are 2 fuses that send 12 volts to the connector that an OBD reader and CONSULT hooks up to, fuses 10 and 12. Both are 10 amp.

Fuse # 10 is in the top row, 2nd from the right end.
Fuse # 12 is in the middle row, 1st one on the left end.

futurechad

The check engine light is not on. The code reader wouldn't be able to read the code of it was. The reader goes blank when it gets connected to the car. I (and the Nissan tech) checked all of the fuses and none seem to be bad. Weird, huh? They're next move is to replace the wiring harness (which may have some damage from me) but this happened all of a sudden after trying a non-programmed key... It worked the time i tried starting it prior to getting the key.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If you did a continuity test on the fuses, fine. If you only did a visual check, you could still have a bad fuse.

It will be interesting to see if it is the wire harness. I don't know how using an incorrect key in the ignition could cause a wire harness to go bad.

Merdan

iTrader: (1)

Why didn't the original key work before you had the tow to the dealership?

I would re-seat the fuses in question and look for loose/corroded contacts. Make sure there is voltage on both sides of the fuses. Confirm that the voltage gets to the ecm by back probing the ecm connector. Confirm that the ecm gets a good ground through the connector also.

futurechad

I tested the fuses. My guess is that it isn't the whole harness, but maybe a wire blew or something from trying to start it too many times..... No idea, I have a company that specializes in auto electrical work looking into the fix. They said they plan on it being done tomorrow.... Praying for a miracle.

futurechad

Got the pros looking at it.... They seemed confident it would be done tomorrow.... And the original key didn't work because the security system locked me out, thought it was being stolen.

futurechad

The auto electrician fixed it in 3 hours including waiting to get the needed part... It was a bad relay. I then called the Nissan dealer and complained about the poor diagnosis and he is planning to refund my diagnostic cost!!!! It's all turning around. Will be needing some new suspension parts in the coming months though... Ideas. Would like a somewhat luxury feel.

maxiiiboy

So that we can all benefit: What does "egi" stand for, and which relay did you replace?

Re. you suspension, I can highly recommend the KYB Excel/GR2 struts. I too have an early 2000 SE; I replaced my front struts with the KYB's last November and the car drives like when it was new. Excellent and not expensive.

futurechad

It is called the Egi relay. Im not sure what it stands for but it is labeled on the plastic relay box under the hood. It is the primary relay that connects to the ecu/ecm.