AT978

Hey guys, hopefully this thread sparks interest in more people than just me.

I'm not sure if this has been done before but it would be a sweet deal if somebody did. I just ordered myself some, I know... the aftermarket halos are ehh but I've been wanting some for the longest time.

Anyway, my question is, how difficult would that task be? Or is it even possible? It would be a definite cool feature to show off to friends (seeing the halos flicker on as you press unlock, and have it dim off with lock)

Hope to see some good responses guys!

The_Fixer

iTrader: (1)

just hook to dome light circuit

AT978

Would overdraw from the circuit? Is it as simple as that?

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

anythings possible, the time and effort are not worth it on those headlights though, u would be better off doing custom rings, in oem housing

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

It wouldn't overdraw if you used a relay. The problem would be that you'd still be sending power back to the dome circuit when you turn the halos on and opened the door. You could use a diode in the circuit to prevent that from happening.

If you did that you'd have the halos turn on with the dome OR the headlight switch.

AT978

How exactly would you integrate a diode within the circuit?

Heel Til I Die

Hey OP,

I just did something similar to what you're trying to accomplish when I finished up my retrofit. I wired my demon eyes to illuminate when my dome light comes on after unlocking the car with my key fob. It think it looks pretty awesome at night. Demon eyes turn off whenever the dome light turns off.

I used this post as a guide: https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ome-turns.html

I implemented a 4-pin SPST relay and grounded the relay to the ground trigger for the dome light from the SECU.

Now, if you wanted to wire your halos so they come on with the dome light, BUT you can still have the option to turn them on while driving (and the dome light is off) then you would need to wire it differently.

The thread I posted above (and following commentary) should help you out, but let me know if you need some more assistance. Happy to help.

EDIT: If you want to run the halos apart from only being triggered by the dome light, then you could use an SPDT relay. Post #42 of previous thread.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

Now that I think about it you shouldn't even need the diode if you use a relay.

I would wire the halos to turn on with the headlights like normal. Then I would wire the relay to be switched by the dome light circuit. I would power the relay from the headlight circuit (before the switch) or directly from the battery.

With the relay you wont be creating any extra draw on the dome light circuit and you wont send power to it (or anywhere else) when you turn the halos on manually.

Also, I know we keep saying "dome light" but you can access the circuit from under the dash too.

Heel Til I Die

Absolutely. By all means, you definitely don't have to run a wire under your headliner to the ground of your dome light. The SECU is located under the steering wheel just above the accelerator pedal.

The dome light illuminates whenever the SECU completes the circuit with the ground trigger at terminal #31 which should be a red wire. By connecting the ground on your relay to the ground for the dome light trigger at the SECU #31, it would complete the circuit and make your halos light up with the interior light.

This wiring schematic from the FSM should help:

AT978

[QUOTE=Heel Til I Die;9087030]Absolutely. By all means, you definitely don't have to run a wire under your headliner to the ground of your dome light. The SECU is located under the steering wheel just above the accelerator pedal.

The dome light illuminates whenever the SECU completes the circuit with the ground trigger at terminal #31 which should be a red wire. By connecting the ground on your relay to the ground for the dome light trigger at the SECU #31, it would complete the circuit and make your halos light up with the interior light.

This wiring schematic from the FSM should help: QUOTE]

I'm not quite understanding this whole thing. So take out the relay so far. If I tap into the positive wire of the SECU which is located under the dash. How do I get that power to the headlights?

AT978

Hey, thanks for the reply. Though upon further testing with the volt meter, the wire that the SECU is hooked to only output 5 volts. How were you able to run your demon eyes on that?

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

He told you right there. You need a relay triggered by the dome light circuit.

Heel Til I Die

It's explained in the initial thread/link that I posted, but if you're only getting a 5v reading on your multimeter then you've got the wrong wire from the SECU.

You hook up Battery power from any source that is on while your key is on to terminal 85. As long as the wire is bigger than 18 Gauge, you'll be fine. This is your "TRIGGER" wire feed. Whenever the key is on, you'll have power at this terminal now.
2. Then splice into SECU terminal #31, and run a wire from that splice point to terminal 86 on the relay. (this is your ACTUAL TRIGGER, when this ground is activated, the relay 'closes' the circuit and allows power to flow)
3. Now you want to hook up "big power" to terminal 30 on the relay. How big and where you get it from is all up to how much stuff you're running off this relay. If you're only installing 10 standard individual LED's, you'll be fine with taking this power from any 15A fused circuit inside the car. I would suggest AUDIO. You SHOULD BE GETTING THIS POWER DIRECTLY FROM THE FUSE PANEL, OR FROM UNDER THE HOOD.
If you're running more or just want to be safe, run a 12 Gauge wire directly off the battery + terminal and make sure to install an inline fuse that is the right amperage for what you're installing (Probably less than 5 Amps)
4. Lastly, you run whatever you are powering onto terminal 87

The trigger at terminal 31 does not output a positive/volt signal - instead it grounds the circuit when the interior lamp lights up.

Essentially, you're using that ground signal from the SECU to complete the circuit for the SPST relay so you tap into that wire for terminal 86 on your SPST relay.

If you're having a hard time finding the ground for the dome lamp, you can always remove the lamp from the headliner and find the two wires. Remove the A-pillar and determine which wire is the ground for the lamp and trace it down to the SECU.

Or you could always splice into the ground wire under the A-pillar.

Heel Til I Die

If you wanted o avoid using a relay, then I suppose you could ground your halos to the SECU terminal 31 ground and run constant power to your halos ALL the time, but I would not recommend this method.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

I wouldn't even hook those halos up

They're crap.

AT978

I'm 99% sure it was the right wire. I pulled the dome light and there were two wires. One was a 12v (which was a constant on) and the other was a 5v (which was hooked into the secu. I had to check many times because I was confused at why it only had 5 volts of current running through it.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The way the interior lights work is that they have 12 volts on them constantly. To turn the light on, the switch connects the light bulb to ground. In the case of the dome light, the SECU is the switch.

In a circuit like this when the light is off, you will measure voltage on both wires. If you have the voltmeter on the solid red wire that goes to the SECU, the wire will go down to almost zero volts when the light goes on.

Heel Til I Die

If you're sure that you have the two wires from the dome light, the ground is the wire that you're not getting the 12v reading.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

thats what i said day one, seemed too debbie downer tho i guess

Heel Til I Die

Agreed. I would go with some halos from TRS. It's more work, but worth it IMO.

AT978

I'm thinking I may put some hid retrofit projectors in

Heel Til I Die

I went with a quad set-up like one of the sets that Genes1s did. I used FX-Rs where the D2R bowl is and mini H1s in the high beam bowl.

I think the output, beam pattern, and cutoff on the FX-Rs are ridiculous. But, they are huge and require so much more cutting and fabricating than the H1s.

Check out his thread for some inspiration: https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...fit-build.html