My son and I are about to take on this engine swap.
I am reading up as much as I can before hand. I have not done this work in a long time. Not sure what issues lie ahead. The engine I have came out of an 08 Quest with 72k miles. The 02 has over 200k and cam sensor codes that keep it from being registered in AZ. Dealer quoted 6k for repairs. My first question is should I replace the timing chain guides, or the whole chain and water pump on the newer motor while it is out.
My son wants to put headers on, but I am worried about passing emissions. I have to learn about O2 sims.
Pictures to follow.

 

I did a 06 Nissan Quest engine swap on my 02 maxima a couple years ago. My motor mounts are pretty much broken. I'm saving up money to buy a newer Maxima engine and manual transmission since I think my engine is burning oil and is going to give up soon. Are y'all only swapping the engine, or both the engine and transmission?

 

Which cam sensor codes does the car have? I find it hard to believe that a new engine will solve the problem.

 

I am swapping the engine only, keeping the 6 speed, I am pretty sure the Quest engine must have had an automatic hanging off of it.

What kinds of problems did you face on your last swap?

P0011 and P0021, dealer says it is due to low oil pressure. The sensors (all newly replaced) are oil pressure driven and there is not enough pressure where they are located. Could be clogged ports or leaky timing chain gasket. The Maxima motor has over 200k looks to have had a rear head job and the timing chain cover gasket looks like it has been replaced at some point due to liquid gasket ooze all over. The quest motor looks like new, has 6 month warranty.
I decided to go with a motor with less miles if I am going to pull it and do the timing chain replacement.

 

The only problem that I had was that the engine block doesn't have a hole for the crankshaft sensor. So ever since I did the swap, it takes about 7-10 seconds for it to start. That's the only thing I hate the most about my car because it's embarrassing from how loud it is. I'm thinking about making a hole on the block since my original transmission has the hole for it but I'm not sure yet. Thinking back to my decisions, I should've bought the engine with the transmission. And the other problem is the motor mounts, I had to switch to manual motor mounts and it's always had that loud thump when you let off the gas. Nobody wants to buy my car cause it takes a while for it to start but I'm thinking of keeping it and doing a newer maxima swap and 6 speed transmission but that's later on. My advice to you is to check if that engine has a hole for the crankshaft sensor and if it doesn't, then make a hole for it cause it's hard to make the hole with the engine installed in the car already. That's why I've been neglecting the sensor.

 

So you guys are saying that the 5.5 gen engine is not a direct bolt on with the 6th engine? you have to make modifications?

 

Those two code could also be due to oil gunk build up in the ports of the actuators.
You could try something and if it works it works. There is a product called seafoam for engines, grab that. Pour half of it in the the oil port, now disconnect the vacuum port at the brake booster and SLOWLY let it suck the seafoam through that. After you are done turn the car off. let it sit for about 5 minutes. Start it up and let the smoke show begin IN A SAFE MANNER well ventilated. Let it idle for a good 15 minutes, turn it off.

Drive the car for 100 miles or so, or if you cant let it idle for awhile.

Get some brake cleaner take BOTH actuators off after the car is cool enough to work on. Give them a GOOD cleaning. Put them back on carefully remembering the way the gasket was facing. Drain the oil. Leave the plug off and pour in a clean liter of oil, to get some residual gunk out. Fill with new oil.

Sometimes the actuators are clogged and become non responsive. There is actually a metal screen on the IN port of the actuators. Also MIGHT be the pickup in the oil pan. I dont know why the dealer is not mentioning this stuff. Which is just plain laziness to be honest.

 

I wonder what it looks like under the valve cover? I would say it's possible that the motor is sludged.

edit: Scratch that. The odds of both not getting oil is just too high. The mechanic has the right idea. If the bozo had the engine apart, then the heads could have been swapped or screwed up.
Now, idk **** about cams, could the trigger wheels be wrong and that's why it's throwing codes? I would pull of the VC and inspect.

We already went over this in your thread. You didn't swap the oil pan. It has nothing to do with the engine or tranny.

 

The oil pan has nothing to do with it. Last time I checked, the hole for the crankshaft sensor is on the side of the block not under where the oil pan is.

 

The crank shaft sensor actually is on the oil pan. Remember, there is an upper and lower oil pan.

Ok that makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions, I'm local and can lend a hand if need be.

 

We replaced the leaky valve cover gasket, and the valve cover and engine looked clean. No sludge.

Since it appears the rear head was rebuilt, maybe the codes existed since the head job due to timing?

 

Not direct, but the modifications needed are minimal. https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...5-5-gen-2.html



Here's a good reference for general swap info: https://maxima.org/forums/all-motor/...it-my-car.html

I'd also say clean the IVT solenoids and re-install them. But I'm thinking maybe the head job could have been botched.

Also, no engine swap needed I'd say.

 

If the head job was botched, this means pulling the timing chain cover and readjusting the timing?
I have no experience adjusting timing in this engine. I would have to read up on how to do it, maybe buy some tools or software? Back in the old days on Chevy motors it was easier
From what I have read here, it seems like pulling the timing cover in place is as much work as pulling the engine.

 

Let’s go ahead and put everything in perspective. Maybe I missed it, but how does the vehicle run currently aside from the ECU code? Does the engine have sufficient oil? You mentioned no sludge so that won’t be the issue, so I’d say check engine oil level and condition.

No, this is more than just headwork as in back in the day. Not sure what he did, but might want to remove the VC and remove the IVT solenoids and see if everything is lining up. Before you start that, unplug each of the IVT sensor plugs and start it and see what happens and how it runs.


Believe me as you know Chevy’s engine are the same as this, and probably even more sophisticated since this car is showing its age. IGN timing won’t do anything I believe that’s what you’re referring to. That’s done at the ECU via the CPS (Crank Pos Sensor). The codes you’re pulling are cam timing codes.


I wouldn’t say so, but like I said earlier you would definitely know if a cam tooth was off.

Seems as if you really want to go through with the swap, so this is a good weapon: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2003/ec.pdf

Check EC-166 for your current code(s).

 

The Engine runs fine, just a little rough when idling cold, after it comes up to temp it smooths out. It has good power, no grinds or rattles, except for maybe the cats, they may need changing as they look like stock.


If I could make these codes go away, trust me, I would much rather not do the full swap at this point. I am on a tight schedule since the car registration has expired and requires passing emissions. No codes allowed.
Thank you for the pdf and your helpful advice. I will explore all options and check the things you suggested.

 

Went through the diagnostics specified in the service manual. I have a much better understanding of how this works. All the sensors check out fine, they should because they are all new. I did not check continuity to the ECM since I dont know where that is It would be nice if I had a CONSULT II or some diagnostic software and an oscope. I checked everything with a fluke meter.
I visually checked the intake cam for chips, nothing. The oil and cams are clean as a whistle and up to correct level.
This leaves the head rebuild as suspect. Maybe the IVT control vanes aren't lined up properly?
Maybe I should take the solenoid off and see how much oil squirts out when I start the engine? maybe not
I am thinking if I have to remove the timing chain cover and mess with the cams, I may as well go ahead with the swap. I dont have a perfect shop, seems to me it would be easier to work on all that stuff with the engine out. I have new timing chain kit with oil and water pumps and a new clutch and main seal. Just need exhaust parts. (and whatever other issues that spring up)

 

removal of lower oil pan




decided to put new timing chain kit on swap engine with 70k miles

 

After pulling the engine and transmission from the car we found broken and loose bolts in the timing chain cover where the water pump access cover is. This is where the oil was leaking from. Looks like the previous owner might have put too long a bolt in and snapped the head off. They must have been too tired from tearing down the engine to bother fixing it. It'll be ok, just add more silicone. Another bolt was next to it was bottomed out with the head not touching. There were also 4 bolts missing from the bottom half of the transmission housing where it meets the engine. Also the amount of rtv silicone used for the job was obscene. The screen on the oil pump inlet in the oil pan was clogged with bits of rtv that had broken off inside. This could also have clogged the screen on the ports to the IVT solenoid.

 

sounds like the motor is toasted from oil starvation, anyway, then

Stupid people need imprisoned. There's no excuse for that kind of "repair."