Hello everyone,
My front and passenger side engine mounts both need to be replaced. I was wondering if anyone can offer some advice as to which brand to go with? I have read that the Front mount should be replaced with an OEM part. Could someone link me to the OEM part? Or offer an aftermarket part that would not cause any vibrations?

Basically, can somebody link me to the replacement parts that I can trust, so I can buy them haha.

Thank you !

 

You can find the mounts and all other oem parts here, google is your friend http://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanparts/?action=replacement&siteid=14.

Even has a vin checker to make sure its a perfect fit for your car.

 

Yes, I have been on that website, but it is quite confusing and does not have the Mounts listed directly, rather has 10 smaller parts, each with its own code. In fact, that site is of no help at all.

 

Re. your passenger-side engine mount, pretty well any reputable replacement is OK. The mount from Anchor (sold by Rockauto.com, part #9031, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....374533&jsn=390) is only $23 and it works well in our cars.

Re. the front mount: Does your car have a Manual Transmission (MT) or an Automatic Transmission (AT)? If your car has a "MT", then the same answer as above applies; Anchor #9532 (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....374533&jsn=391) or others will do just fine.

If your car has an "AT", you need to do a bit of thinking before replacing your mount. The following should help in your decision making:

• Educate yourself about the "failing mount burns your ECU" issue. Read this note https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...psNVBqUVk/view, or search this forum, or even better, do both.
• If you want to: (maintain the original vibration-damping quality) AND (if you are willing to accept the risk of potential ECU failure), your best solution is to purchase the OEM mount and connect it to the ECU harness (yes, the OEM mounts are expensive, close to $200). If you want to eliminate the potential ECU-failure risk, you can install a 3A fuse into the mount. Alternately, you can leave the mount disconnected and accept the penalty of some/occasional vibrations.
• If you can/want: (tolerate some additional vibrations) AND (eliminate the ECU damage risk), then purchase a mount that is normally used in MT Maximas. Anchor #9532 is such a mount. Another choice is Anchor #9633 ("with sensor wires", a much cheaper alternative to the OEM mount, at about $50). You can leave it disconnected or install a fuse into the mount (that's what I plan to do).

Good luck, and let us know how it worked out!

 

Thank you so much for the write up! Last question, which is the best option? I would think the last one, where I can buy the Manual Transmission and install a fuse into the mount. What exactly is the fuse part? I actually have no clue what that is, or how I would install it into the mount. My mechanic will be doing the work, but if it is not a heavy addition (the fuse) I'd like to install it. If I put the Manual Transmission Mount, and do not plug it into the ECU, will there be lots of vibrations?


Also, the Anchor 9633, say this.
Updated Design - No Sensor Wire
Front; Automatic trans.; Front w/ AT & Electrical Sensor Wire

It literally says no sensor wire, then says electrical sensor wire....

 

Most members here on .org either disconnected their electronic mounts or they are using the mounts for MT.
Re. Anchor #9633, it actually has the electronic control but you can leave it disconnected.

 

maxiiiboy is right on with his advice

i am using mt mounts and my opinion is that any added vibration is minimal

 

So, final decision, buy the anchor 9532, and accept a little more vibrations?

In terms of otherwise performance, is the 9532 on par with the 9633, not considering the electronic aspect?

 

Cornholio has told you that MT mounts are OK.
Should you go with #9532 or #9633? Nobody can really tell you unless he/she tried them both. Perhaps you may do that.

 

If you browse on Auto Zone they sell the rubber absorbers for the side mounts and you just reuse the brackets.

 

the only ones i see on autozone are the energy suspension ones. DO NOT do this unless you want the added vibration. plus i think it's more expensive than the anchor mounts maxiiiboy suggested from rockauto

 

Last question then guys, if I buy the MT version, and have nothing connected to the ECU, will I get a check engine light? As in something is not connected...

 

Not at all! set it and forget it

 

If there are so many posts about the mounts shorting the ECU then why no TSB?

 

There is, while it does not directly say "it will damage your ecu" they do acknowledge the noise which leads the the death of the ecu eventually.

see link below.

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB01-010.pdf

 

Got you. "The Buzz"


The Mounts installed during a certain time of assembly. Is it the actual mounts that fail? Why don't the mounts installed in the 2002 max in 2001 damage the ECU but the mounts installed in 2000 for the 2001 max do?


Do the aftermarket electronic mounts fail the same way or are they remanufactured to prevent this? Do they exceed OE specs?

 

I did not have good luck with the Anchor 9031 passenger side mount. The top hole on the mount is off by about 1/4". I started a thread on it here. I think I'll probably go with Knights inserts.

 

I think some people are not aware that the 5.5 gen 2002/2003 maxima is different from the 99/01 maxima that had these issues with the engine mount shorting out the ecu. Both front and rear mounts in mf car have gone bad, yet no damage to the computer, and both are electronic mounts.

 

Both front and rear mounts went bad in my 2000 without damaging the computer, does that mean I shouldn't take precautions?

 

 

Does anyone have a link for front and rear motor mounts or inserts, not sure which ones I need? I'm ignant and can't find them. Looking for the manual ones?

 

So is it that only the original Bridgestone mounts fail? Are the aftermarket electronic mounts better built to prevent this? Is it a glitch or bug in the system that creates the damage? Is it corrected by a Remnfcturd ECM or a reprogramming?

 

That's what they're saying that it doesn't make difference it can still damage the ECM. When they seem to be inoperative is when they damage. Cut the wire to the ECM on both.

 

Is there only one wire to cut? Does this solve all the problems caused by these mounts?

 

do yourself a favor and read all of post #4

 

No ****

 

You have to remove the intake air duct. You'll see red wires running by the starter. just follow those wires and cut the one to the front mount. I would assume yes cut the other one from the rear mount to the ECM. This apparently prevents the $1800 in damage.


I've already been through it. $2000 It takes the IACV sensor with it too!

You'll be accelerating one day and get to 2nd or 3rd gear then boom! the car just gives out. It's like you have a lawn mower motor in your car. It still drives but it doesn't accelerate nearly as fast as it normally would. I think it flashes a P0505.


The ironic thing is it feels almost identical to traveling in a GM car like a tech 4 or 3800 or something and the coil pack/module blows out.


So you won't realize it's the mounts until your new parts fry.

 

So the manual mounts are noticeably harsher but not TOO bad.

My manual mounts have broken. So it's either buy them again and again or go with poly.
Looks like ES is the only option but the seem to be really harsh. They don't list how hard it is either.

 

Not just ECU but IACV too it flashes a P0505 you'd think it would be a P0605.

 

For the front mount, could someone explain to me the difference between the Anchor 9633 and the Anchor 9532. 9633 is listed for AT while the 9532 is for MT. There is almost a 100% price increase between the MT to AT. Why? The 9633 is also listed as updated design, with no sensor wires.

 

The #9633 is listed as an "updated design", with "no wires". That's an incorrect statement by Anchor and/or Rockauto. In reality, this mount has wires and can be controlled by our ECU. How do I know? I bought it, and it's sitting in my garage. I subsequently called Anchor and complained, told them about my concerns re. ECU damage. They told me to "just leave it unconnected".

The #9533 is a mount for MT cars. It has none of the soft/hard logic and that's why it's so much cheaper.

 

As ridiculous as all these mount threads are getting, I should just go to the junkyard, grab about 20, fill them with urethane (can make soft or firm) and start selling LOL

 

So, the 9633, gives superior dampening even without being connected to the ECU?

 

Sorry correction they're 3 wires in a black wire cover coming from the engine mount. mine are cut and the car has ran beautifully for five years.

The wires are cut further up over head the transaxle housing They just lay there so I'm unsure if it could short out the CPU.

 

or just disconnect it if you're not a ding dong