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ok guys when i first got my i35 i was sold on how cold the a/c was. It was cold and i had not problems with it until i had to change my heater core around the end of last year and i evacuated the system, basically unbolted the low pressure line from the firewall to have more room and let all the a/c freon out. So its been without freon for like 5 months. So i went to get a vacuum and recharge today at some shop thinking that was all it needed because another shop told me that was all it needed since it was working before i let the freon out. So they semi finish the job and inside the car is still hot. i was so mad!. The compressor is coming on i hear it click and both fans kick on like normal. Air is only getting kool while sitting , if i drive off it turns warm again. So i dont know what they did wrong. Now im out of $85 and still in a hot car smh. Im no a/c expert but i do know how to add freon, and like i said nothing was wrong with it until i emptied the lines.
ok guys when i first got my i35 i was sold on how cold the a/c was. It was cold and i had not problems with it until i had to change my heater core around the end of last year and i evacuated the system, basically unbolted the low pressure line from the firewall to have more room and let all the a/c freon out. So its been without freon for like 5 months. So i went to get a vacuum and recharge today at some shop thinking that was all it needed because another shop told me that was all it needed since it was working before i let the freon out. So they semi finish the job and inside the car is still hot. i was so mad!. The compressor is coming on i hear it click and both fans kick on like normal. Air is only getting kool while sitting , if i drive off it turns warm again. So i dont know what they did wrong. Now im out of $85 and still in a hot car smh. Im no a/c expert but i do know how to add freon, and like i said nothing was wrong with it until i emptied the lines.
i know that if you overfill the ac lines the compressor will kick in and back off to prevent damage. i had a previous car that had no ac, i let some freon out and ac starter blowing cold.
Sounds like you have air in the system or there is too much ac gas in there. Go to autozone or whatever store you can borrow an ac vac pump from. I used autozone because advanced didnt't have it. It was on a civic but you won't have to pay because when you return the pump you get your money back. It's part of the tool free rental. Walmart has r-134a for like $2-$10 a can depending on time of year. Good luck.
Sounds like you have air in the system or there is too much ac gas in there. Go to autozone or whatever store you can borrow an ac vac pump from. I used autozone because advanced didnt't have it. It was on a civic but you won't have to pay because when you return the pump you get your money back. It's part of the tool free rental. Walmart has r-134a for like $2-$10 a can depending on time of year. Good luck.
Thanks for the advice man I wish I knew this earlier lol by the way how much vacuum and how much / freon does the system hold. Also do they sell the quages with the pump.
Thanks for the advice man I wish I knew this earlier lol by the way how much vacuum and how much / freon does the system hold. Also do they sell the quages with the pump.
I always use my credit card and they charge it incase you don't bring the loaner tool back. Yes they had the vac pump and guages. It created a vacuum instantly but to do it properly you're supposed to take a really long time and make sure the system has no leaks. Then just put a can of r-134a on the one hose and fill it. I watched a youtube video and was certified in a few minutes. http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refri...acities/nissan
I always use my credit card and they charge it incase you don't bring the loaner tool back. Yes they had the vac pump and guages. It created a vacuum instantly but to do it properly you're supposed to take a really long time and make sure the system has no leaks. Then just put a can of r-134a on the one hose and fill it. I watched a youtube video and was certified in a few minutes. http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refri...acities/nissan
Ok I'm going to watch the video. But what I'm seeing now is the a/c blows cold air after sitting for a little while. If I give the car gas or move/ accelerate it gets warmer
BTW you can get two cans of r-134a from walmart for like $4.88 each. Then borrow the vac pump and guages from a parts store like autozone, advanced, etc. and it's pretty easy.
The 2001 takes 16oz so what id suggest is to get a small digi scale and weigh the second can as you feed it into the system. Also what I picked up was to dump an oz of PAG 46 into the feedin line before you hook it up to the low side for charging.
BTW you can get two cans of r-134a from walmart for like $4.88 each. Then borrow the vac pump and guages from a parts store like autozone, advanced, etc. and it's pretty easy.
Does the r34 from Walmart come with the correct Pag oil?
where would the expansion valve be located on 02 i/35. I plan to buy a new reciever dryer and see if that helps. I believe the evaporator is still good i can see it dripping water under the car, and the line is cold.
The expansion valve is inside the car's cabin, in with the evaporator coil that is behind the left side of the glove box. To replace it requires removing the evaporator core, which requires disconnecting the lines from the a/c compressor.
A bad expansion valve would cause bad pressure readings. Did the place that charged the system say anything about bad readings?
Maybe the controlling circuits for air temperature are messed up. Run the self diagnostic and see what that shows.
If you run this outside at night or in a not-so-well-lit garage, the test for sunload sensor will fail, error 25. Test #5 displays the readings from the various temperature sensors, so have an idea of the outside air and inside the car temperatures. Also, one of the test sections (#3 I think) takes a while to run, so don't panic thinking the test died.
Once you determine what the problem is and you're ready to recharge, my advice would be to review the applicable portions of the FSM to determine the proper refrigerant oil. Assuming you run PAG46 may be incorrect as some of the Maxima systems run PAG100.
Also, stop venting refrigerant to the atmosphere.
... basically unbolted the low pressure line from the firewall to have more room and let all the a/c freon out.
Experiencing a failure that results in a leak is one thing but intentionally releasing refrigerant is just irresponsible. An A/C shop will charge an minimal amount to evacuate your system.
Have you replaced them ? Matbe they are failing intermittenly. They should come on and stay on all the time when AC is on. Both. If AC off they should come on at 203ºF. Then if your car isnt cooled by then both fans run at a higher speed at 214ºF
Have you replaced them ? Matbe they are failing intermittenly. They should come on and stay on all the time when AC is on. Both. If AC off they should come on at 203ºF. Then if your car isnt cooled by then both fans run at a higher speed at 214ºF
Yes I replaced both fan motors last year. It cools fine when it sits for a little while, then when i move it blows hot air. My car is 2002 I-35.
Once you determine what the problem is and you're ready to recharge, my advice would be to review the applicable portions of the FSM to determine the proper refrigerant oil. Assuming you run PAG46 may be incorrect as some of the Maxima systems run PAG100.
Also, stop venting refrigerant to the atmosphere.
Experiencing a failure that results in a leak is one thing but intentionally releasing refrigerant is just irresponsible. An A/C shop will charge an minimal amount to evacuate your system.
Wasnt exactly intentional, But i did need to replace my heater core and needed more room without removing the entire dash.
The expansion valve is inside the car's cabin, in with the evaporator coil that is behind the left side of the glove box. To replace it requires removing the evaporator core, which requires disconnecting the lines from the a/c compressor.
A bad expansion valve would cause bad pressure readings. Did the place that charged the system say anything about bad readings?
Maybe the controlling circuits for air temperature are messed up. Run the self diagnostic and see what that shows.
If you run this outside at night or in a not-so-well-lit garage, the test for sunload sensor will fail, error 25. Test #5 displays the readings from the various temperature sensors, so have an idea of the outside air and inside the car temperatures. Also, one of the test sections (#3 I think) takes a while to run, so don't panic thinking the test died.
No the shop didnt say anything about the pressure readings being bad. They just recommend replacing the evaporator, expansion valve and dryer at a cost of $600. I went to another place and they said there may be a blockage since the air comes out with the car idleing, and pressing the gas pedal it blows warm air. So the recommend replacing the receiver dryer.
i know that if you overfill the ac lines the compressor will kick in and back off to prevent damage. i had a previous car that had no ac, i let some freon out and ac starter blowing cold.
I think this is whats happening now i can hear the compressor going on and shutting back off on hott days. I guess when i accelerate it shuts back off.
I think this is whats happening now i can hear the compressor going on and shutting back off on hott days. I guess when i accelerate it shuts back off.
Note: you will only see the low pressure side using the Gauge provided by AC Pro, etc. So you really don't have an accurate pressure reading you're relying on just the low pressure which isn't enough when you having a problem
Temperature is very important when adding freon or verifying the pressure. There will be different pressures at different temperatures. So there could be too much pressure at higher temperatures which causes the compressor to shut down. This is the chart provided by AC Pro. Which is the same for all 134a applications. People don't use this as they should.
Last edited by rodent_infested_03; 06-20-2018 at 04:41 AM.
Your tools are exceedingly important in evaluating and diagnosing your AC system.
Here's another useful symptom chart:
The point I'm trying to make by posting this chart is to stress that, in order to properly diagnose your problem, a quality set of manifold gauges is needed in that both low and high pressures have to be evaluated.
Your tools are exceedingly important in evaluating and diagnosing your AC system.
Here's another useful symptom chart:
The point I'm trying to make by posting this chart is to stress that, in order to properly diagnose your problem, a quality set of manifold gauges is needed in that both low and high pressures have to be evaluated.
Yes i think im going to pick up a set from harbor freight. You are correct it seems that higher temps make the compressor shut off more frequently. Ive noticed during the evening and at night only while sitting the a/c comes out ice cold again until i start to drive.
Ok so I ended up taking my car to pep boys this morning since they had a free a/c check and further diagnosis was about $40. So they told me at first there was too much freon in the system so they would remove some and get the levels to right amount. Then they said they would ad die and see oil and see if there are any leaks and do an evav and recharge for $119. But what they found was the climate control box has a hole in the bottom in which most of the cooler air is coming out of and onto the passenger side floor. I'm hoping that me replacing the climate control box will solve the problem. Also im not sure where the evaporator drain outlet is but I feel it dripping a bit right under the evaporator box/ housing. So pep boys informed me about the climate control box/ housing and didn't charge me anything. So basically the air is still kinda warm but now it comes out a little cooler than the outside tempwhile driving than it did before but not cold enough and I'm guessing because the box has a hole in it.
Last edited by maxinout93; 06-24-2018 at 01:28 PM.
My 03 AC drain is passenger side crash wall behind a metal heat sheild. I had to put the car up on ramps to get to it. Use a coat hanger to get behind the heat shield and into the hole to free debris.
My 03 AC drain is passenger side crash wall behind a metal heat sheild. I had to put the car up on ramps to get to it. Use a coat hanger to get behind the heat shield and into the hole to free debris.
ok I finally have cool air blowing out my vents now while im driving. last weekend i took the glove box apart and cleaned out the cabin air filter while seeing if any bolts were missing on the climate control box. I noticed one bolt was missing at the bottom and alot of the air was escaping on the floor thru a gap. So i put the screw in lifted up the exap box. now there is barley any air seeping thru. I also had to replace my alternator as it went out shortly after i did this. Now the air seems to blow no matter if im driving or sitting. Only problems is when its over 100 degrees it struggles to get cool. Im thinking I should replace the reciever dryer. I dont know.
I'm in the Northeast and it's hi 90s low 100s here for days. And I have a brand new condenser with a dryer and all brand new freon. When it gets close to 100f it just can't keep up. Fans going like crazy. In my opinion based on how much road noise I hear compared to my other vehicles it's just not insulated that well. So it doesn't hold cool air that well. I also notice that perhaps my fans just don't suck enough air over the condenser to keep it cool. I'm leaning more towards the former.
I'm in the Northeast and it's hi 90s low 100s here for days. And I have a brand new condenser with a dryer and all brand new freon. When it gets close to 100f it just can't keep up. Fans going like crazy. In my opinion based on how much road noise I hear compared to my other vehicles it's just not insulated that well. So it doesn't hold cool air that well. I also notice that perhaps my fans just don't suck enough air over the condenser to keep it cool. I'm leaning more towards the former.
Hmm I don't know exactly my ac use to do good on really hot days. But I'm starting to get a weird smell thru the vents so I'm thinking receiver dryer may need replacing
My username has meaning. The 03 DD I rescued from under a shade tree was absolutely infested by mice. Most recent find was a clogged drain vent which made it smell really bad. Are you sure it's draining underneath? Maybe poke something up there and make sure it's open? That would make for a bad smell the water
I had just recently a vinegar like smell out the vents when first turned on the ac. Googled and one cheap fix is to turn heat on high for a few minutes. It seems to have worked for me. Need to check my drain hose as well but apparently when the car doesn't have many opportunities for moisture in a.c. operations to dry out it can create mold and the heat kills it.
It worked for me. Maybe something else is going wrong, idk.
My username has meaning. The 03 DD I rescued from under a shade tree was absolutely infested by mice. Most recent find was a clogged drain vent which made it smell really bad. Are you sure it's draining underneath? Maybe poke something up there and make sure it's open? That would make for a bad smell the water
THat may be the issue also. It seems that sometimes it drains good and sometimes it does not. Like a long puddle of water some days and other days just a small drip.
Well the problem seems to have fixed itself. I now have cold air blowing while i drive. The climate control on my car seems weird, lol if its 100 degrees here i can turn my ac down to 81 and cold air starts to blow. I guess the point is to not turn the a/c all the way down to 60 on a really hot day because that over works the a/c compressor. I havent had to turn it down to 60 yet and it blows cold. I think the problem was the sensor behind the steering wheel, along with me also cleaning out the cabin filter, and best part is I didnt have to replace anything like the dryer or the expansion valve. thanks for everyones input.
i keep it at 60 but, hit the AUTO button and the A/C kicks on. sometimes if it's on manual the compressors doesn't kick on. i skimmed through. My 2 cents is if you do not know the pressures levels i'd have that checked, i think higher than spec or lower than spec for too long may not be good on the compressor and lines.
05-02-2018, 07:43 PM
