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I'm flying solo with the labor in this swap because I don't know anyone that can help. I have the engine attached to the hoist and ready to pull. I have the engine and tranny separated approximately one half inch all the way around the bell housing (see pics, sorry they suck). When I begin to lift, I just can't seem to separate the two enough to release the engine. I am pulling the engine and tranny separately and out the top, but I will be installing both as a single unit. I'm at a loss at this point and have quit for the day. Am I missing something? How far apart do the two need to be in order for the engine to rise? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. And I'd like to extend a special thank you to all whom have helped me thus far!
If you would like a short video or more pics, let me know and I will get those uploaded.
Last edited by User1; 10-21-2018 at 02:16 PM.
Reason: Advice
Leave the mount on the pass side and lower driver's all the way down and slide off the tranny (remove crossmember). You're fighting the input shaft and weight, plus there's not enough room.
Good luck dropping them in together. I could barely get them out in one piece and had to bend stuff. It's easy to just pull the tranny up and slide it back in. I've done this several times and a few times by myself.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-21-2018 at 03:49 PM.
Leave the mount on the pass side and lower driver's all the way down and slide off the tranny (remove crossmember). You're fighting the input shaft and weight, plus there's not enough room.
Good luck dropping them in together. I could barely get them out in one piece and had to bend stuff.
Child, you have come through once again. I don't know how to thank you. I will try again tomorrow.
To clarify;
1) Remove tranny mount
2) Remove crossmember
3) Lower set and pull tranny away from engine
4) Lift engine
5) Lift tranny
6) Deal with installation later
Child: I feel I need to state that I have a 4MT. Is there still an input shaft? Forgive my ignorance, I have no previous knowledge about this motor. Just want to make sure we are on the same page. Thank you, kind sir!
I don't know why you didn't pull the transmission first? Take the axles out, take the stuff of around the transmission,take the bolts out of the transmission and drop the transmission. Don't take the engine out till then.put a cushion like a couch cousin or something similar if your alone . And just let it fall. use a jack to get it off the dowel pins.
And another thing why does no one put their location by there user name anymore. It would help a lot. For instance i could come and help if i was close.
Child, you have come through once again. I don't know how to thank you. I will try again tomorrow.
To clarify;
1) Remove tranny mount
2) Remove crossmember
3) Lower set and pull tranny away from engine
4) Lift engine
5) Lift tranny
6) Deal with installation later
Oh, yeah, forgot you're auto.I think you can leave the mount on the tranny as lowering it will make it all clear (fuzzy on auto details). If you have the car high enough, you should be able to slide it out.
Originally Posted by krismax
I don't know why you didn't pull the transmission first? Take the axles out, take the stuff of around the transmission,take the bolts out of the transmission and drop the transmission. Don't take the engine out till then.put a cushion like a couch cousin or something similar if your alone . And just let it fall. use a jack to get it off the dowel pins.
And another thing why does no one put their location by there user name anymore. It would help a lot. For instance i could come and help if i was close.
Yeah, a tranny jack is good to have. Harbor Freight has an el cheapo that I use. You can also just use some big lumber (like 4x4s for elevation) with cardboard/padding as a bed for it to fall on if you don't have a jack.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-21-2018 at 09:09 PM.
Definitely possible to pull with the tranny attached, but its a project. I had to tilt the motor+trans all the way to the trans side (so trans was much lower) otherwise the bellhousing would get stuck on the chassis. You need to mess around with lowering and raising your hoist a bit, i also had a floorjack underneath to help with angling things where they had to go in conjuction with my hoist. Its all going back in tomorrow, going to attempt to get it back in with the tranny on but i know already that its gonna suck a big one getting the perfect angle. Worst case scenario i just zip the trans off again and put it in from the bottom.
I don't know why you didn't pull the transmission first? Take the axles out, take the stuff of around the transmission,take the bolts out of the transmission and drop the transmission. Don't take the engine out till then.put a cushion like a couch cousin or something similar if your alone . And just let it fall. use a jack to get it off the dowel pins.
And another thing why does no one put their location by there user name anymore. It would help a lot. For instance i could come and help if i was close.
That is way cool and kind of you to offer to help! That really made my day, thank you! I am in Tampa, however, so that might be a bit of a drive Thanks for the tips, thank you all! I am going to plug away at it soon. I'm pretty booked with work right now but I intend to have the new motor in on Sunday. I'll keep you guys posted. You guys have all been a really big help and it is very much appreciated! I'll be back on the forum soon. Till then..
Drop the tranmission, then pull the engine... you might wanna remove drivers LCA as well to make it easier removing the transmission.
Jesus Christ, I'm starting to think it may be easier just to remove the entire car from the engine! I've got this all backwards! Just kidding Thanks for the LCA tip. Do you think my 1300ft lb half drive impact will break those three big bolts loose? I have a 25 inch breaker bar too if I need it.
Jesus Christ, I'm starting to think it may be easier just to remove the entire car from the engine! I've got this all backwards! Just kidding Thanks for the LCA tip. Do you think my 1300ft lb half drive impact will break those three big bolts loose? I have a 25 inch breaker bar too if I need it.
Ironically, this is exactly how the motor is designed to be removed lol. Nissan drops the motor along with the entire subframe from the engine, literally lifting the car from the motor rather than the motor from the car - which is why its such a PITA to pull the motor out the top. Its also why you dont see any lift hooks on the motor like you do on many other motors. As far as LCA bolts, the tightest one is at like 150ftlbs iirc, tight but nothing crazy. Youll want to look up the actual torque settings when putting them back on of course. If you were able to get your crank pulley off, youll get the LCA bolts off no problem. Just take care not to tear your balljoint boot, its easier to do than youd think.
Ironically, this is exactly how the motor is designed to be removed lol. Nissan drops the motor along with the entire subframe from the engine, literally lifting the car from the motor rather than the motor from the car - which is why its such a PITA to pull the motor out the top. Its also why you dont see any lift hooks on the motor like you do on many other motors. As far as LCA bolts, the tightest one is at like 150ftlbs iirc, tight but nothing crazy. Youll want to look up the actual torque settings when putting them back on of course. If you were able to get your crank pulley off, youll get the LCA bolts off no problem. Just take care not to tear your balljoint boot, its easier to do than youd think.
Yep, a two post lift is on my list to santa clause. Then we'll be cooking with gas and lifting cars off of motors. My crank bolt wasn't actually that bad. Had a friend stand on the engine stand and steady the motor, then pulled up on the breaker bar til it about snapped and broke it loose. The Pittsburgh pro line 25" bar from Harbor Freight actually shined quite well. I was expecting it to break. I didn't even need a puller for the crank pulley. It just wiggled off. I got a good deal on a clean motor. I'm really pleased with it. I talked to a 4th gen guy and he uses a chain and the two opposing bolt holes on the intake manifold to lift with. I'd be ok with that method to get the old one out, but I'd fear a drop in with both as a unit or even engine alone on only those two bolt holes would be too much weight for my comfort. It's probably a popular method though.
I watched Tilley . First person to do a 3.5 swap i was the second. Jack the front of the car up ,put blocks under the car.He had the engine, transmission ,crossmember , he started with removing the brakes axles and control arms. He put the crossmember on the garage floor. Then he lifted the car up until the engine would clear the radiator support underneath . Then he would drag both out.
I watched Tilley . First person to do a 3.5 swap i was the second. Jack the front of the car up ,put blocks under the car.He had the engine, transmission ,crossmember , he started with removing the brakes axles and control arms. He put the crossmember on the garage floor. Then he lifted the car up until the engine would clear the radiator support underneath . Then he would drag both out.
Figured id drop an update. Got the motor in with 6speed attached along will all accessories. It was a bit of a PITA but not as bad as i though. Pretty much going in reverse of when i pulled it out. Trick is to get the tranny to clear the chassis as much as possible before dropping the front end of the motor, you kinda need to twist and wiggle it in while lowering it. Did it alone but would be much easier with another person to work the jacks while you guide it where it has to go. Had to bend a little flap on the battery tray thing, also you want to be very careful with the ABS box. Stop every inch and make sure you check that nothings getting pinched or crushed. Overall, i dont think this would be any harder than attaching the tranny from the bottom, i think both options sorta suck lol.
Surprisingly, getting the damn motor mounts bolted back on was much more difficult. The one in the back just did not want to line up. It might be easier to get the one in the back bolted up first since the front one is much easier to deal with.
Figured id drop an update. Got the motor in with 6speed attached along will all accessories. It was a bit of a PITA but not as bad as i though. Pretty much going in reverse of when i pulled it out. Trick is to get the tranny to clear the chassis as much as possible before dropping the front end of the motor, you kinda need to twist and wiggle it in while lowering it. Did it alone but would be much easier with another person to work the jacks while you guide it where it has to go. Had to bend a little flap on the battery tray thing, also you want to be very careful with the ABS box. Stop every inch and make sure you check that nothings getting pinched or crushed. Overall, i dont think this would be any harder than attaching the tranny from the bottom, i think both options sorta suck lol.
Surprisingly, getting the damn motor mounts bolted back on was much more difficult. The one in the back just did not want to line up. It might be easier to get the one in the back bolted up first since the front one is much easier to deal with.
IIRC, I just mount the engine with side mounts, then install crossmember. Only put like one bolt in partially to help hold crossmember, then everything should be able to be wiggled into place.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-23-2018 at 02:32 PM.
Figured id drop an update. Got the motor in with 6speed attached along will all accessories. It was a bit of a PITA but not as bad as i though. Pretty much going in reverse of when i pulled it out. Trick is to get the tranny to clear the chassis as much as possible before dropping the front end of the motor, you kinda need to twist and wiggle it in while lowering it. Did it alone but would be much easier with another person to work the jacks while you guide it where it has to go. Had to bend a little flap on the battery tray thing, also you want to be very careful with the ABS box. Stop every inch and make sure you check that nothings getting pinched or crushed. Overall, i dont think this would be any harder than attaching the tranny from the bottom, i think both options sorta suck lol.
Surprisingly, getting the damn motor mounts bolted back on was much more difficult. The one in the back just did not want to line up. It might be easier to get the one in the back bolted up first since the front one is much easier to deal with.
Outstanding! When you say "with all accessories", do you mean all 7th gen accessories, or did you modify the block to accept 5th gen stuff? I'm so booked with work that I haven't had a chance to attack the pull again yet. I think I'll have time Sunday to get it out along with the tranny. I bought a bunch of degreaser and cleaning supplies to detail the empty engine bay while I'm at it. I need to get the PS pump and new hose to the hydraulic shop to have the connection made. What did you come up with for your PS pump? The only other modification that I will need to make is the bending of the AC line set tubing at the compressor to clear the radiator, as the ports on the 2014 compressor are offset to about 3 o'clock vs 2003 pump ports at about the 1 'oclock position when looking at the compressor axially from the clutch side. Along with my DC Power Inc. alternator that should be here soon, and that will conclude an all 7th gen accessories setup. I'm really happy to only have the one drive belt and a nice auto-tensioner. Should make maintenance life a lot easier.
No ,he would drop the car 100% to the floor,with engine tranny installed. Touching them on the floor. everything was unhooked ,except the tranny and the pass side mount.
Then he would ,lift the car up away from the engine, trans,and crossmember.(he would leave them all hooked together) when it was high enough ,he would drag them out. To install he would do reverse. He would install engine, tranny,crossmember all at once. With the car on the floor ,it all bolted in. Kind of like, if the jack fell, that kind of on the floor.
No ,he would drop the car 100% to the floor,with engine tranny installed. Touching them on the floor. everything was unhooked ,except the tranny and the pass side mount.
Then he would ,lift the car up away from the engine, trans,and crossmember.(he would leave them all hooked together) when it was high enough ,he would drag them out. To install he would do reverse. He would install engine, tranny,crossmember all at once. With the car on the floor ,it all bolted in. Kind of like, if the jack fell, that kind of on the floor.
How did he lift the car that high? Everything is easier with a lift, b/c that's how it's supposed to be done. Portable lift?
How did he lift the car that high? Everything is easier with a lift, b/c that's how it's supposed to be done. Portable lift?
Id imagine you just use your engine hoist and attach it to the radiator support. Only issue with that is you would need a strong enough hoist, and that the hoist might be in the way of dragging the motor/trans out. Maybe just get some tall jackstands or put your jackstands on blocks to keep the car high enough. Dont see why this wouldnt work, I strongly considered doing it this way but considering I was working in my backyard ontop of plywood I figured going from the top would be less chance of problems.
he would jack then blocks ,the angle makes it higher. he would only jack the front.Car is easy to lift without weight of trans and engine.When mine was out i actually could lift the front(by hand) and move the car.
10-21-2018, 02:15 PM
Thanks for the tips, thank you all! I am going to plug away at it soon. I'm pretty booked with work right now but I intend to have the new motor in on Sunday. I'll keep you guys posted. You guys have all been a really big help and it is very much appreciated! I'll be back on the forum soon. Till then..
