2001 maxima crank no start, all 3 new OEM sensors all fuses ok
11-19-2018, 06:03 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: MO, greater KC Area-ish
Posts: 773
2001 maxima crank no start, all 3 new OEM sensors all fuses ok
2001 maxima crank no start, all 3 new OEM sensors, all fuses ok. cleared codes will wait to see what pops up but the only codes i did have were 02 sensor and misfire. it does miss fire when cranking at start.
EDIT: it will start and run fine after 3 or attempts, sometimes on first attempt (usually when warm). unless the new OEM cam sensor i just installed requires the ECU to re learn???
EDIT: it will start and run fine after 3 or attempts, sometimes on first attempt (usually when warm). unless the new OEM cam sensor i just installed requires the ECU to re learn???
11-20-2018, 01:26 AM
#3
2001 maxima crank no start, all 3 new OEM sensors, all fuses ok. cleared codes will wait to see what pops up but the only codes i did have were 02 sensor and misfire. it does miss fire when cranking at start.
EDIT: it will start and run fine after 3 or attempts, sometimes on first attempt (usually when warm). unless the new OEM cam sensor i just installed requires the ECU to re learn???
EDIT: it will start and run fine after 3 or attempts, sometimes on first attempt (usually when warm). unless the new OEM cam sensor i just installed requires the ECU to re learn???
The 2 crank sensors have problems compared to cam. Your symptom matches crank sensor problem identically IF it'll start if you just keep cranking. I wonder if one is bad or maybe the connector. Did you replace all three at once? If so, I'd start with one at a time and see if you can narrow down if a new one is defective. And clean the connectors.
I read you think bad FPR in the other thread. That's possible. The way you test that is to cycle the key several times to keep priming the pump. If it starts fine immediately, then that's your issue. You can also spray fluid (starting or brake cleaner) in the intake manifold and see if it starts instantly.
I read you think bad FPR in the other thread. That's possible. The way you test that is to cycle the key several times to keep priming the pump. If it starts fine immediately, then that's your issue. You can also spray fluid (starting or brake cleaner) in the intake manifold and see if it starts instantly.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 11-20-2018 at 01:34 AM.
11-20-2018, 08:28 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: MO, greater KC Area-ish
Posts: 773
i replaced 1 at a time. FSM and multimeter for testing the connectors unless anyone knows what pins to test off the top of their heads. i'm thinking wiring since the head lights tend to flicker brighter on some bumps? i'd think unrelated or semi unrelated. wouldn't the triggered security system cause it to honk? i know when the door doesn't fully unlock on my 2004 vw bug it honks when i try to crank the engine.
11-21-2018, 11:42 AM
#5
The car has 2 security systems. One is a basic "break-in" system that honks the horn and flashes the headlights if the door is opened. It will also disable the starter for no crank (auto trans only).
The other security system is the NATS/NVIS system. This one centers around the chip in the ignition key. As you probably know, the ignition keys have to be programmed to the car. This system has been known to burp and activate by itself. When activated, the NATS system will allow the starter to crank the engine, but the engine will not start because NATS has turned the fuel injectors off. The red led in with the clock will be illuminated when trying to start the car if NATS is activated.
The other security system is the NATS/NVIS system. This one centers around the chip in the ignition key. As you probably know, the ignition keys have to be programmed to the car. This system has been known to burp and activate by itself. When activated, the NATS system will allow the starter to crank the engine, but the engine will not start because NATS has turned the fuel injectors off. The red led in with the clock will be illuminated when trying to start the car if NATS is activated.
11-22-2018, 12:49 AM
#7
The car has 2 security systems. One is a basic "break-in" system that honks the horn and flashes the headlights if the door is opened. It will also disable the starter for no crank (auto trans only).
The other security system is the NATS/NVIS system. This one centers around the chip in the ignition key. As you probably know, the ignition keys have to be programmed to the car. This system has been known to burp and activate by itself. When activated, the NATS system will allow the starter to crank the engine, but the engine will not start because NATS has turned the fuel injectors off. The red led in with the clock will be illuminated when trying to start the car if NATS is activated.
The other security system is the NATS/NVIS system. This one centers around the chip in the ignition key. As you probably know, the ignition keys have to be programmed to the car. This system has been known to burp and activate by itself. When activated, the NATS system will allow the starter to crank the engine, but the engine will not start because NATS has turned the fuel injectors off. The red led in with the clock will be illuminated when trying to start the car if NATS is activated.
He should get locked out trying to start multiple times, though. He gets it running, so I don't think that's it. But, yep, solid right is the indicator.
11-25-2018, 07:25 AM
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 81
Not to sidetrack the original question, but why would it not be a starter issue? The reason I ask is I had the same symptoms with respect to sometimes having to crank the car two or three times to start. My issue was I went with a cheap starter several years before and it was failing. I replaced with a Bosch and it solved the starting issue. Again, I did not have the misfire or codes. Just curious.
Chris
Chris
11-25-2018, 08:21 AM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: MO, greater KC Area-ish
Posts: 773
1 it some times tries to fire when cranking and causes what sounds like a hiccup or back fire so that makes me question a security module. 2 just had the alternator and starter rebuilt none of that parts store reman bosch crap with tons and tones of poor reviews. it's cranks like a fresh dose of Monster with a side of speed when it gets to cranking. it also has an optima yellow top. i'd think i wouldn't be a power drain issue but, like mentioned the heads lights now have this odd flicker but, i'm not unsure it isn't a relay under the dash especially with that clicking sound, that being a new issue where as the crank no start has been going on for a while probably a little before or at the time of the starter Bendix finally giving out.
surely i have several issues going on? i did try unplugging one of the security modules and re plugging that made no change. could the circuit i fried for the gas door and trunk release be contributing? if my memory serves that may predate the crank no start/hard start. ALSO i have cleaned the MAF. My only codes are O2 and a lean or rich code, i'll throw a scanner on tonight if possible.
EDIT: Also thank you guys for chiming in.
surely i have several issues going on? i did try unplugging one of the security modules and re plugging that made no change. could the circuit i fried for the gas door and trunk release be contributing? if my memory serves that may predate the crank no start/hard start. ALSO i have cleaned the MAF. My only codes are O2 and a lean or rich code, i'll throw a scanner on tonight if possible.
EDIT: Also thank you guys for chiming in.
11-25-2018, 02:56 PM
#10
1 it some times tries to fire when cranking and causes what sounds like a hiccup or back fire so that makes me question a security module. 2 just had the alternator and starter rebuilt none of that parts store reman bosch crap with tons and tones of poor reviews. it's cranks like a fresh dose of Monster with a side of speed when it gets to cranking. it also has an optima yellow top. i'd think i wouldn't be a power drain issue but, like mentioned the heads lights now have this odd flicker but, i'm not unsure it isn't a relay under the dash especially with that clicking sound, that being a new issue where as the crank no start has been going on for a while probably a little before or at the time of the starter Bendix finally giving out.
surely i have several issues going on? i did try unplugging one of the security modules and re plugging that made no change. could the circuit i fried for the gas door and trunk release be contributing? if my memory serves that may predate the crank no start/hard start. ALSO i have cleaned the MAF. My only codes are O2 and a lean or rich code, i'll throw a scanner on tonight if possible.
EDIT: Also thank you guys for chiming in.
surely i have several issues going on? i did try unplugging one of the security modules and re plugging that made no change. could the circuit i fried for the gas door and trunk release be contributing? if my memory serves that may predate the crank no start/hard start. ALSO i have cleaned the MAF. My only codes are O2 and a lean or rich code, i'll throw a scanner on tonight if possible.
EDIT: Also thank you guys for chiming in.
Did you try priming pump a bunch or fluid to start and see what happens? At least you can remove fuel delivery off the table if problem remains.
11-25-2018, 03:01 PM
#12
11-25-2018, 04:45 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: MO, greater KC Area-ish
Posts: 773
MY hang up with junkyard parts is all weather, UV, cold and hot the plastics break down versus climate controlled warehouse with new and OEM stuff. So if the MAF IS the culprit it will fire right up?
i have tried in the past to prime it first but, that seemed to have limited if any affect. i due to try to turn it on fora few seconds, off and then on and crank. i know on newer cars the plastic fittings shrink and leak after a while and fuel pressure can drop after sitting.
i have tried in the past to prime it first but, that seemed to have limited if any affect. i due to try to turn it on fora few seconds, off and then on and crank. i know on newer cars the plastic fittings shrink and leak after a while and fuel pressure can drop after sitting.
11-25-2018, 07:31 PM
#14
11-25-2018, 07:47 PM
#15
Hey now, we're supposed to be a community! On that note, I haven't forgotten about you. As the sole responder and therefore winner of the sensors, your package has been packaged and is ready for shipment. Looking to get it out tomorrow or Tuesday. I give myself leeway as I'm not sure at this point how many more drinks will be consumed tonight and so my ability to make it to the UPS store before they close tomorrow may or may not be compromised 
In any event, congratulations!
In any event, congratulations!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ofsalesmen
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
34
12-19-2020 04:43 PM
ssneakster
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
3
01-09-2014 03:20 AM
Toolrocks
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
7
08-08-2002 09:26 PM