I have to pass smog bad, anybody know what the drive cycle is to set all the monitors? Google isn't helping me at all....

 

You're the guy who posted about the catalyst problem? Just drive a lot. Normal driving should do it. If you use the FSM instructions you're going to need a copilot to read and instruct you and it probably isn't going to be any quicker than normal driving

 

that's assuming you can understand what the manual is saying.

 

Got that right. I read part of it. I'm glad it isn't an absolutely essential procedure.
OP here is a generic drive cycle that is probably all you need.

1. The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of each other).
2. The ignition key must not be left on prior to the cold start – otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
   • As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and one-half minutes, with the air conditioning (A/C) and rear defrost turned on, if equipped.
   • Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph under moderate, constant acceleration. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
   • Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch for manual transmissions).
   • Accelerate again back to 55 to 60 mph.
   • Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

 

Not true.
"Normal driving" may not do it - it certainly doesn't do it for me. Read my posts (#10 and #12) in this thread https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...t-monitor.html.

 

Of course it's true but you're welcome to believe what you want. It's just your car diagnostics checking the system to see if everything is working as it should under normal driving conditions.. That's the whole point of having the readiness monitors. Those monitors are cleared every time the battery is disconnected or loses power. It also happens if you clear a code, which is why you can't just clear a code and then have your car inspected before the code returns and the CEL comes on. No car manufacturer is going to have a system that requires some crazy complex procedure that the owner has to perform every time the battery is disconnected.

 

Fair enough, I guess I'll just drive it for another week or so. I already have foulers on the way in the mail in case this week goes by, and it doesn't work.

 

yeah I am that guy haha I have the registration paid for. just waiting for the dang monitor to set, so I can get my registration.

 

I feel your pain. That white chevy truck in my sig pic took weeks to complete the readiness monitor tests even tho I took it out nightly and drove under every possibly condition. It was probably 300 to 400 miles before it was ready. I don't think yours will be that bad.