6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

Basic Mods to see 300hp from the Max

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Old 07-18-2005, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JiuJitsuThug
darrinips & E55 - 5spd auto and tested AFTER the following mods (Greddy's & Intake).
Thanks for the info.

OK then, so 265 * .80 = 212 (note that 20% loss is a complete "guesstimate" and will vary from make to make)

Add 7 HP for the mods yields 219. This sounds about right. Maybe a tad low if you believe the advertisements but well within what you would expect. That would make your HP at the output shaft about 274 or so. Add a Y-pipe, headers (when available) and recalibrate everything (when an aftermarket module is available...or use the in-line option menioned early on) and 300 should be within reach.

BTW, here is an interesting read on HP loss for components (not Nissan specific though): http://x-ram.com/dynotuning.html
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Old 07-18-2005, 12:58 PM
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And luckily you guys actually came with 265, whereas I still belive the 5.5gens have 240 hp / 265ft/lbs @ the crank, judging from the many stock dynojet #'s.

Also, your torque is also underrated, but that's a good thing in some cases.

For an auto, 240whp with a 20% loss, would obviously equate to 300 CHP, so it;s not terribly difficult, but headers are a MUST.
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Old 07-18-2005, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
And luckily you guys actually came with 265, whereas I still belive the 5.5gens have 240 hp / 265ft/lbs @ the crank, judging from the many stock dynojet #'s.
Maybe, but then again maybe these things just lose more power than what some people think.

Does anyone have a dyno on a manual 2004+ Maxima? It should be in the 222-225 HP range if the engine does make 265.
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Old 07-18-2005, 01:23 PM
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Maybe, but then again maybe these things just lose more power than what some people think.
Explain what you mean by this?

The 6 speed stock 5.5g made 204-207 whp... And supposedly they have "255" ... doesn't seem right to me, but this is an old subject, and seems to have been corrected by Nissan for the 04+ model years...
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Old 07-18-2005, 01:30 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Explain what you mean by this?
Sure.

My point is that on a chassis dyno all we can do is guess at what the engine is making. It may very well make the rated HP, but more of that HP is getting robbed than what the "guesstimate" was.

For example, say the 265 figure is correct, but the automatic was really losing about 25%, not 20%. The wheel HP would only be about 198. Working backward, you would think that the engine was only making 245-250 HP, when it really was making 265 all along.
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Old 07-18-2005, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JiuJitsuThug
darrinips & E55 - 5spd auto and tested AFTER the following mods (Greddy's & Intake). I have not retested since adding the Unorthodox pulley. Don't even want to bother with it since I also added 19's. It would be too depressing

As stated, I'm done with the performance mods from here on out. I don't see much point in it anymore since I got the R6 that will smoke any MAX ever made LOL - so for me the max is now just a good looking cruiser.

Dyno was done on a DynoJet in April 04'.

Best of luck to you guys in attaining those numbers though

219whp/.77 (conversion rate for nissan 4spd autos) = 284.42chp

Im not sure what the drivetrain loss is for the 5 speed, but Im sure its less than the 23% of the 4AT. So, 284.42chp is pretty much the max its making.
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Old 07-18-2005, 01:57 PM
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V8 Max

I stopped by the Nissan dealer today and bought a V8 emblem for the Titan truck and slapped that bad boy on the trunk of my 04 Max SL. I felt the difference right away, at least 55 more HP. My neck is sore from the whiplash after mashing down on the pedal. And it was a cheap mod.

Seriously, the way some have moded out their Max has me jealous that I don't have the spare change to do some myself. (My wife and 2 kids eat up my mod money.) I like some of the things that are done and some I wouldn't do even if I had the scratch to do it.

I think that the basic, fundemantal thing we have learned here is that we are all looking to improve our Max's and that some have chosen a differnet path than the others. Why do we need to finger point at those that have taken a different path and have name calling and other shows of disrespect?

Also, this IS the 6th gen board, so why is it that we have other gens coming on here and bashing 6th gen members that were just minding their own business? Just a thought.
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Old 07-18-2005, 01:58 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by chernmax
The comment is based on SR20DEN dyno run where he took off his A/C belt and achieved a higher pull as a result.

I have never proven what if any affect this has on the dyno. I still 'think' removal of the A/C doesn't produce results worth the trouble. But I do now have A/C on my car and it wasn't removed specifically for my trip to the dyno. The past two winters I have removed the A/C compressor and the condensor, only to reinstall everything before summer. A few extra 'unproven' HP isn't worth suffering 80-100º temperatures at 70-100% humidity for any length of time.
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Old 07-18-2005, 02:04 PM
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[QUOTE=ramberg]
Originally Posted by Glude
I will always listen to what you have to say. Just wish you would stick around here more. We could use your advice because I know I dont like spending money on mods that arent going to gain me power


I thought that your set-up is like mine. and if it is you must feel the that extra power when you step on the gas pedal.
Im not running the Injen anymore because it didnt do anything, stock intake with the front snorkel and fender resonator has felt the best to me so far. The pulley made the car rev a lil quicker. Exhaust did nothing other than add so sound. I ran my best time stock so I dont think many of the mods did to much. Later
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Old 07-18-2005, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
And luckily you guys actually came with 265, whereas I still belive the 5.5gens have 240 hp / 265ft/lbs @ the crank, judging from the many stock dynojet #'s.

Also, your torque is also underrated, but that's a good thing in some cases.

For an auto, 240whp with a 20% loss, would obviously equate to 300 CHP, so it;s not terribly difficult, but headers are a MUST.

Mine made 196whp stock....255chp....
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Old 07-18-2005, 02:15 PM
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Approximately the same ... I guess 22% vs 20%, I did my math a bit differently, as I use 20% for autos ...

Do you have any of your dynorun files E55AMG2, I think it be interesting to see your gradual improvement.
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Old 07-18-2005, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Approximately the same ... I guess 22% vs 20%, I did my math a bit differently, as I use 20% for autos ...

Do you have any of your dynorun files E55AMG2, I think it be interesting to see your gradual improvement.

I do....I will PM you later (when I get home) so i can send you some.

This was confirmed to me by a nissan engineer, the 4at loses 23%, the 5mt loses 15%, and the 6mt loses 18....
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Old 07-18-2005, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by E55AMG2
I do....I will PM you later (when I get home) so i can send you some.
Much appreciated.



Originally Posted by E55AMG2
This was confirmed to me by a nissan engineer, the 4at loses 23%, the 5mt loses 15%, and the 6mt loses 18....
Well, I had the 5MT and 6MT correct in my guesses. Funny because I don't own either.
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Old 07-18-2005, 02:32 PM
  #174  
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muffler bearings
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Old 07-18-2005, 03:16 PM
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Cool stuff - this thread really turned around for the better. Glad I hung out to learn a bit more - thanks!
JJT
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Old 07-18-2005, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I have never proven what if any affect this has on the dyno. I still 'think' removal of the A/C doesn't produce results worth the trouble. But I do now have A/C on my car and it wasn't removed specifically for my trip to the dyno. The past two winters I have removed the A/C compressor and the condensor, only to reinstall everything before summer. A few extra 'unproven' HP isn't worth suffering 80-100º temperatures at 70-100% humidity for any length of time.
Well, I was just taking your advice and educating myself on some of the past history you experienced during your dyno, I noted for one run during your tweak, the A/C belt was removed, gave you more whip, which is good, however it's good to know you put it back so people looking for power pockets don't run out and start removing their A/C belts. Your numbers were impressive, I give you that. However for my needs, whatever I get on the street, I will except on the track, it works for me.

Glade to see ADULTS can take it down a notch and get the communication flowing again. Good luck, believe it or not, I still want to hear what you have to say...
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by chernmax
Well, I was just taking your advice and educating myself on some of the past history you experienced during your dyno, I noted for one run during your tweak, the A/C belt was removed, gave you more whip, which is good, however it's good to know you put it back so people looking for power pockets don't run out and start removing their A/C belts. Your numbers were impressive, I give you that. However for my needs, whatever I get on the street, I will except on the track, it works for me.

Glade to see ADULTS can take it down a notch and get the communication flowing again. Good luck, believe it or not, I still want to hear what you have to say...
Having just come from the Dyno and All Engine sections the only thread started by him is some cam "info" that he doesn't want discussed - I'm wondering about his expertise.
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:33 PM
  #178  
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I actually do this ( remove A/C belt during winter mos) and use a smaller one (by-passing the A/C) on my 95 Maxima, have since I bought it in 2000. Placebo or not .. Maybe I'm just bored.
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:39 PM
  #179  
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Just a little note on Fuel

We must remember that the result of your dyno will also be altered to some effect by the fuel in your tank at the time .. over here our 98 Super premium unleaded fuel will add 10 hp at least and that is as advised by the petrol companies ... but it also goes off very quick and must be bought from a service station which moves it quick...



and I still cannot get mine dynoed as I have "VDC" .....

Love that Night Photo Warren ... it's blooody great....
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Old 07-18-2005, 06:20 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by savagecat
Having just come from the Dyno and All Engine sections the only thread started by him is some cam "info" that he doesn't want discussed - I'm wondering about his expertise.
Don't beat around the bush, be direct and ask the questions that you want to ask. Otherwise they probably won't get answered.
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Old 07-18-2005, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by savagecat
Having just come from the Dyno and All Engine sections the only thread started by him is some cam "info" that he doesn't want discussed - I'm wondering about his expertise.
I believe it can be discussed, just not in that particular thread, because it will then get cluttered with posts, good/bad/constructive or otherwise, and the thread will be convoluted. Whereas, the thread as is alone, is a good source of camshaft information.

It is there for those want to use it and appreciate it.
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Old 07-18-2005, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I believe it can be discussed, just not in that particular thread, because it will then get cluttered with posts, good/bad/constructive or otherwise, and the thread will be convoluted. Whereas, the thread as is alone, is a good source of camshaft information.

It is there for those want to use it and appreciate it.
Thank you.
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Old 07-18-2005, 07:44 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by savagecat
Having just come from the Dyno and All Engine sections the only thread started by him is some cam "info" that he doesn't want discussed - I'm wondering about his expertise.

Those are specs pulled from factory manuals posted for quick reference.....
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Old 07-18-2005, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by blackpaladin67
and I still cannot get mine dynoed as I have "VDC" .....
you should be able to disable the VDC (it reactivates at 50mph, but that shouldnt affect your dyno performance as its in its "passive" mode). I have dynoed a 350Z with VDC and it worked just fine at 239.9 stock RWHP
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Old 07-18-2005, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by chernmax
Well, I was just taking your advice and educating myself on some of the past history you experienced during your dyno, I noted for one run during your tweak, the A/C belt was removed, gave you more whip, which is good, however it's good to know you put it back so people looking for power pockets don't run out and start removing their A/C belts.
I never kept up well with the note keeping between runs, they usually don't list everything that may or may not have been done. The file dates are better tips between mods. And I promise you I have no comparisions of the A/C belt being on vs. off. Hopefully one day I'll get the chance to provide some real data to everyone on that subject.
Your numbers were impressive, I give you that. However for my needs, whatever I get on the street, I will except on the track, it works for me.

Glade to see ADULTS can take it down a notch and get the communication flowing again. Good luck, believe it or not, I still want to hear what you have to say...
I just read back through this thread and as I see it I have answered just about every question that was asked of me specifically, just not in the mannor of which the questioners approve of. But I never stooped to name calling or personal attacks.
This is simply the way much of my content flows in text form and I stopped making appologies for it a long time ago. It also isn't my intention to just give away answers to certain problems. I love to get people to think it over for themselves. Because the more people we have actualy thinking over a problem the more productive we are as a group. I don't get jealous or offended when someone comes up with a better idea than mine. I know I personally can't come up with all the answers. I have to rely on you guys to help me help you.
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Old 07-19-2005, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I just read back through this thread and as I see it I have answered just about every question that was asked of me specifically, just not in the mannor of which the questioners approve of. But I never stooped to name calling or personal attacks.
This is simply the way much of my content flows in text form and I stopped making appologies for it a long time ago. It also isn't my intention to just give away answers to certain problems. I love to get people to think it over for themselves. Because the more people we have actualy thinking over a problem the more productive we are as a group. I don't get jealous or offended when someone comes up with a better idea than mine. I know I personally can't come up with all the answers. I have to rely on you guys to help me help you.
Well after retiring from the military (US Navy) I took a job with a multi-billion dollar consulting firm as a master training specialist, in that capacity, like the Org, we must find a common median when we talk with people young and old, newbie or advanced. This is what I like about the Org. Learning as well as educating. When some posters bark out comments like that’s old news, been posted before are you dumb etc. it sets off a bad tone which I believe is 180 degrees out of balance from the original intent of this forum.

You have been here a lot longer than most of us and people like me who are fairly new (with more Org sign ups daily), you cannot get around being asked the same questions numerous times, any educator will tell you that. And as a diverse community with different upbringings and backgrounds, we will never be able to please everyone, in those times, don’t loose your professionalism because it dilutes your expertise and if we both go back to earlier thread post, we know what can happen. The message got lost and no one learned $hit but hostility. I appreciate your feedback and for answering my questions. I really am one of the good guys, hope you are too. NOW BACK TO BUSINESS…
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Old 07-19-2005, 06:37 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by E55AMG2
I do....I will PM you later (when I get home) so i can send you some.

This was confirmed to me by a nissan engineer, the 4at loses 23%, the 5mt loses 15%, and the 6mt loses 18....
I'd be shocked to find that the 6sp loses 3% more than the 5sp. Anything over a 17% loss from what I have read is either meant to handle a lot more power (stronger/heavier gears) or is of poor design. The 6 speed should not be that much heavier than the 5 speed. I've contacted Nissan about this and will wait to see what they have to say.

Also, here is some very interesting reading...highly recomended: http://www.superstang.com/horsepower.htm

It talks about HP and dynos and why HP is lost and ever touches on light weight flywheels (yes...they do help).
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Old 07-19-2005, 06:40 AM
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It's a known fact the 6M flywheel is morbidly obese.
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Old 07-19-2005, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by darrinps
I'd be shocked to find that the 6sp loses 3% more than the 5sp. Anything over a 17% loss from what I have read is either meant to handle a lot more power (stronger/heavier gears) is of poor design. The 6 speed should not be that much heavier than the 5 speed. I've contacted Nissan about this and will wait to see what they have to say.

Also, here is some very interesting reading...highly recomended: http://www.superstang.com/horsepower.htm

It talks about HP and dynos and why HP is lost and ever touches on light weight flywheels (yes...they do help).

Im thinking the 6mt is heavier overall (not sure by how much) and the fact tht there are extra synchros and an extra gear inside...all of which contribute to the extra 3%. Not sure exactly where you read the 17% figure, but manuals are safe up to 20%
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Old 07-19-2005, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
It's a known fact the 6M flywheel is morbidly obese.
This too
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by E55AMG2
This too
Does anyone know the weight of the 6 speed flywheel? From what I could find, assuming it's like th 350Z 3.5, the weight is around 28-29 pounds. A little heavy yes, but not "morbidly obese".

Is that number (28-29) incorrect?
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by darrinps
I'd be shocked to find that the 6sp loses 3% more than the 5sp. Anything over a 17% loss from what I have read is either meant to handle a lot more power (stronger/heavier gears) or is of poor design. The 6 speed should not be that much heavier than the 5 speed. I've contacted Nissan about this and will wait to see what they have to say.

Also, here is some very interesting reading...highly recomended: http://www.superstang.com/horsepower.htm

It talks about HP and dynos and why HP is lost and ever touches on light weight flywheels (yes...they do help).
Great info, good job...
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by darrinps
Does anyone know the weight of the 6 speed flywheel? From what I could find, assuming it's like th 350Z 3.5, the weight is around 28-29 pounds. A little heavy yes, but not "morbidly obese".

Is that number (28-29) incorrect?
The 350z and Maxima do not share the same tranmission.

The 02 + Maxima flywheel weighs 31+ lbs, and the FWD 6M is known to cause a lot of drivetrain loss, as it is the same tranny used in the QR powered Sentra SE-r.

Some 5 speed flyhweels weigh in @ ~ 18lbs ..

Maybe morbidly obese was a little off the wall, but it sounds cool
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Maybe morbidly obese was a little off the wall, but it sounds cool
I thought so too...just didn't know how accurate it was.

Now, 31 pounds as you mention is getting up there. Of course, this does help fuel economy, and since the Maxima is a "family sedan" I suppose it makes sense.

It would be interesting to see how much a lightened (not an aluminum...just a stock one put on a diet) flywheel would help acceleration and hurt fuel economy and driveability in a 2004+ Maxima.
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Old 07-22-2005, 09:39 PM
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New mod for maxima?

I was looking at the stillen site and there is an available mod for the Maxima that nobody has really talked about.

CAMSHAFT S1 BILLET SET (VQ35DE), '03 NIS 350Z/MAX/ALTIMA



"S1 BILLET CAMS ADD 15+HP WHILE MAINTAINING EXCELLENT DRIVABILITY AND IDLE QUALITY. THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST CAMS BOTH HAVE THE SAME LIFT AND DURATION SPECS, 260 DEG DUR. / .428"(10.9MM) LIFT, INT. ADVANCED 2 DEGREES. DESIGNED TO USE WITH STOCK SPRINGS. PATHFINDER/QX4 MUST USE SPROCKET ADAPTORS. "

Has anyone installed this? I know it's VERY expensive ($1,335.00 stillen price), but maybe that's the way to go to get into the 300chp realm, don't you think?
Let me know what's the difference from the OEM camshafts.
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:17 PM
  #196  
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Try this!
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=417441
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Old 07-23-2005, 05:24 AM
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I'm not talking about how to make the max get to 300chp, just about this mod. Anyone knows anything about it?
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Old 07-23-2005, 07:39 AM
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I don't think anyone has attempted yet because I'm sure that one would void engine warranty... And the price is steep...
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Old 07-23-2005, 07:49 AM
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I mentioned this before on other threads, and what they say is it don't make enough diffrence to waste your money on it..

they claim 15hp on the site, but its prob for the Z or so.. the max don't react the same..

but to truely get some "fact" on the subject someone will have to try it out and dino it and get results..

so who's the lab rat?...
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Old 07-23-2005, 09:00 AM
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For a 15hp gain it should retail for no more than $300.
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