What weight motor oil are you guy running???
02-03-2008, 09:38 AM
#41
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
Chern, What kind of city/hwy mpg have you been getting before you turboed your max? What about after the turbo? How often do you change oil and filter?
I have to check my mpg closely with the new oil. I am just irritated by the fact that I changed from synthetic blend to dyno oil. I wanted to use the same oil for the first 20k miles and then switch to full synthetic. From the next time, I am doing my own oil change.
Light, the Maxima manual says -- "Your engine was filled with a high-quality engine oil when it was built." Do you know exactly what oil comes from the factory? Also, what filter?
I have to check my mpg closely with the new oil. I am just irritated by the fact that I changed from synthetic blend to dyno oil. I wanted to use the same oil for the first 20k miles and then switch to full synthetic. From the next time, I am doing my own oil change.
Light, the Maxima manual says -- "Your engine was filled with a high-quality engine oil when it was built." Do you know exactly what oil comes from the factory? Also, what filter?
I was changing my oil every 5K miles, I now do it every 3-4K miles since the motor oil is also used to lubricate the Turbo now...
02-03-2008, 12:38 PM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: a meadow south of Atlanta
Posts: 8,143
bb700092 - Maximas definitely come with 5W-30 oil. I'm not sure which brand of oil. As to the filter, the new Maximas probably come with the same filter the Nissan dealer service departments use, but I haven't bothered to ask who makes it.
Don't be hard on youself for changing from blend to dino. Dino has served well for a hundred years. I drove dino a Maxima for over 200,000 miles in Atlanta traffic (the WORST) and the engine never missed a beat. In fact, I still stay with dino the first 36K on all my Maximas.
I feel the best oil program for enthusiasts would be to use dyno the first 10K, then use a blend the next 10K. After the odo reads 20K, any quality oil will work fine. That would be a good point for synthetic oil fans to make the permanently switch.
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chern - I have always been extremely dubious about sites touting stats on their own product. It would not be to their advantage to show any tests that did not result in their product appearing superior.
Even if Royal Purple did increase HP from 2 to 3 percent over the WalMart special dino (and I remain to be convinced), that would not be obvious to drivers in everyday driving, and would be difficult to detect from the driver's seat, even in extreme maneuvers such as a timed quarter mile, until one actually checked the elapsed time.
Having said that, there is no question that synthetic oil lubricates better than dino, and once an engine is broken in (AND NOT BEFORE), is clearly a better lubricant for an engine. This is especially true if the car is being driven hard, and could even be critically important if the engine has been supercharged, turboed, or otherwise boosted.
But everyday drivers in Maximas with unboosted engines who almost never push their Maxima really hard would be wasting their money changing to synthetic, unless they plan on changing the filter every 7K or so AND LEAVING THE SYNTHETIC OIL IN THE CRANKCASE FOR 30K or so; properly filtered synthetic oil is that good, and it would be a shame to throw it away after only 7 to 10K.
Don't be hard on youself for changing from blend to dino. Dino has served well for a hundred years. I drove dino a Maxima for over 200,000 miles in Atlanta traffic (the WORST) and the engine never missed a beat. In fact, I still stay with dino the first 36K on all my Maximas.
I feel the best oil program for enthusiasts would be to use dyno the first 10K, then use a blend the next 10K. After the odo reads 20K, any quality oil will work fine. That would be a good point for synthetic oil fans to make the permanently switch.
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chern - I have always been extremely dubious about sites touting stats on their own product. It would not be to their advantage to show any tests that did not result in their product appearing superior.
Even if Royal Purple did increase HP from 2 to 3 percent over the WalMart special dino (and I remain to be convinced), that would not be obvious to drivers in everyday driving, and would be difficult to detect from the driver's seat, even in extreme maneuvers such as a timed quarter mile, until one actually checked the elapsed time.
Having said that, there is no question that synthetic oil lubricates better than dino, and once an engine is broken in (AND NOT BEFORE), is clearly a better lubricant for an engine. This is especially true if the car is being driven hard, and could even be critically important if the engine has been supercharged, turboed, or otherwise boosted.
But everyday drivers in Maximas with unboosted engines who almost never push their Maxima really hard would be wasting their money changing to synthetic, unless they plan on changing the filter every 7K or so AND LEAVING THE SYNTHETIC OIL IN THE CRANKCASE FOR 30K or so; properly filtered synthetic oil is that good, and it would be a shame to throw it away after only 7 to 10K.
02-03-2008, 01:43 PM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 607
Light, After I bought my Maxima, I was getting about 19 mpg in the city (my home to my work and back -- the same street everyday at the same time in the same traffic conditions). After my first oil change at 2900 miles with Castrol synthetic blend, the mpg increased in the same city driving conditions to 21 mpg. I also noticed increase in hwy mpg. I thought the engine has been broken in and so my mpg got better. But after my second oil change at 6300 miles with Valvoline, I am noticing a decrease in city mpg to 19 in the same driving conditions. So the increase in mpg before was not due to my engine broken in but due to the Castrol synthetic blend.
I am not quite sure I believe what you say -- "As to the filter, the new Maximas probably come with the same filter the Nissan dealer service departments use..." I am sure these dealers don't even know what oil or filter a Maxima comes with from the factory. I have changed oils at two different Nissan dealers after I bought my Max and they used different filters and different oils. They only care about their business, not about anyone's vehicle -- thats the bottomline.
I am planning to go with Castrol GTX upto 20k miles, then with a pure synthetic. BTW, Walmart has a number of different oil change services. They use a Castrol oil which costs $22 approx, Castrol GTX costs $30, Castrol Synthetic blend costs $36, and Castrol full synthetic costs $40. So its better to get my oil change from Walmart with Castrol GTX for $30 than from a Nissan dealer with Valvoline for the same amount of money. However, Castrol GTX (5 qt) costs about $12 at Walmart, so its best to change oil myself.
Now, the question I have is this: The oil change services include "check and top-off other fluids". Other than the washer fluid, do they actually need to top-off any other fluid? If they do, then there is a chance that two different brand (or even composition) fluids will be mixed. For e.g., the transmission fluid that the oil change service guys top-off with might not exactly match the fluid that is already in. Will that not adversely effect the transmission?
I am not quite sure I believe what you say -- "As to the filter, the new Maximas probably come with the same filter the Nissan dealer service departments use..." I am sure these dealers don't even know what oil or filter a Maxima comes with from the factory. I have changed oils at two different Nissan dealers after I bought my Max and they used different filters and different oils. They only care about their business, not about anyone's vehicle -- thats the bottomline.
I am planning to go with Castrol GTX upto 20k miles, then with a pure synthetic. BTW, Walmart has a number of different oil change services. They use a Castrol oil which costs $22 approx, Castrol GTX costs $30, Castrol Synthetic blend costs $36, and Castrol full synthetic costs $40. So its better to get my oil change from Walmart with Castrol GTX for $30 than from a Nissan dealer with Valvoline for the same amount of money. However, Castrol GTX (5 qt) costs about $12 at Walmart, so its best to change oil myself.
Now, the question I have is this: The oil change services include "check and top-off other fluids". Other than the washer fluid, do they actually need to top-off any other fluid? If they do, then there is a chance that two different brand (or even composition) fluids will be mixed. For e.g., the transmission fluid that the oil change service guys top-off with might not exactly match the fluid that is already in. Will that not adversely effect the transmission?
Last edited by bb700092; 02-03-2008 at 02:00 PM.
02-03-2008, 02:24 PM
#45
Is this what I should do if switching from conventional oil to Synthetic Mobil 1 5W-30 ?? I have an 04 SE , drive it pretty hard most of the time and do ALOT of rough city driving (NY)
02-03-2008, 05:33 PM
#46
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
But the Royal Purple tests they are touting were not done by them but by some of the top rated car and truck shows in America for driving enthusiast!!!
- Horsepower TV shows the advantages of using Royal Purple's 5W30 synthetic motor oil and gains 8 horsepower and 6 ft-lbs of torque in the process.
—courtesy, Horsepower TV - This dyno run from Horsepower TV shows a gain of nearly 9 horsepower when Royal Purple is tested on an LS1 engine.
—courtesy, Horsepower TV - Hot Rod TV verifies other independent tests showing how Royal Purple can increase horsepower by 2.5% and torque by 1.5%.
—courtesy, Hot Rod TV - Trucks TV uses Royal Purple to increase torque as much as 3.5% throughout the power curve.
—courtesy, Trucks TV - With the help of Royal Purple products, V8TV realizes a 2% gain in horsepower in their '90 convertible mustang.
—courtesy, V8TV
But everyday drivers in Maximas with unboosted engines who almost never push their Maxima really hard would be wasting their money changing to synthetic, unless they plan on changing the filter every 7K or so AND LEAVING THE SYNTHETIC OIL IN THE CRANKCASE FOR 30K or so; properly filtered synthetic oil is that good, and it would be a shame to throw it away after only 7 to 10K.
Last edited by chernmax; 02-03-2008 at 05:37 PM.
02-03-2008, 08:24 PM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: a meadow south of Atlanta
Posts: 8,143
bb700092 - You may well be right that some Nissan dealers go with whatever oil and filter they can get the cheapest. I would be disappointed, but not surprised.
I still feel it is impossible to get a really accurate reading on mpg whenever city driving is involved. I drove in Los Angeles and Atlanta city traffic for 35 years, and although I stuck to a few preferred routes, I NEVER ONCE MADE TWO TRIPS THAT WERE EXACTLY ALIKE. To attribute a 10% decrease in mpg (21 to 19 mpg) to a change in oil is not realistic. Even the Royal Purple folks know most of the public wouldn't believe that.
I feel your plan to go with Castrol GTX to 20K, then go with full synthetic, is excellent. I have always had a good opinion of Castrol products. In reality, most of the engine breakin happens during the first 10K, so you could ease into full synthetic a little earlier than 20K without any problems if the mood strikes you.
Your info on WalMart oil change options is very interesting. I had never even considered having my oil changed at WalMart, but after you laid out the many options they offer, I will definitely keep them in mind.
Oil changes at places where things are done right do include checking/topping off all fluids. This is where a shop can be your best friend or your worst enemy. There is a right way and many wrong ways to do everything.
One would think changing the oil would be rather straight-forward. It is not. The 2nd gen Maxima required either heat-proof gloves or someone who didn't mind serious burns in order to extract the filter from between the engine and the firewall. Twice with that 2nd gen Maxima, I caught shops actually leaving the old filter in and charging me for a new one. In 58 1/2 years of driving, I have three times had the new filter not put on exactly right, and had oil leak out around the filter gasket. Twice, I have had the threads stripped on the drain plug at the bottom of the crankcase. Once, the drain plug was tightened so tightly the crankcase suffered a tear about two inches away, and the oil leaked out. Twice, the old filter had to be extracted by running a crowbar thru it and tearing it to shreds. Of course, considering I have had hundreds of oil changes, I could have had worse things happen.
The windshield washer fluid should be no problem, as long as they use quality fluid with a low freezing point. The power steering fluid and brake fluid can vary between vehicles of different auto manufacturers, but there are only a few varieties of each, so reputable shops should have no problem with this. Non-sealed batteries should be topped off with distilled water, but every shop I know uses tap water. If the coolant level is low, it should be topped off with a 50-50 mixture of anti-freeze and coolant. It is best to not mix different coolant types, but most types can be mixed without major problems.
But the most important 'top off' for 6th gen Maxima owners is the 5 speed auto tranny. Nissan is VERY VERY particular as to the type it REQUIRES in this tranny. Be sure and use ONLY the type recommended by Nissan (specified in the manual), else warranty issues can 'happen'. In an effort to avoid problems in this area, Nissan makes it difficult to even add tranny fluid.
But I am overloading the server here, so . . .
04Max_ILLIN - In your situation, and considering the way you drive, the engine should be fairly broken in by 10K, and you should be able to go straight to full synthetic at that time should you choose to do so. Of course using a blend during the conversion period would also work fine.
Chern - I suppose I have been jaded by a lifetime of finding that tests and claims were often not exactly what they were purported to be. Sure, the tests were done by other entities, but there could be other less-favorable tests by other entities that are not linked to the Royal Purple board. They surely would not link to any test that didn't make them look great. I will admit the linked tests seem meaningful.
I will also admit that the more aggressively a vehicle is driven, the better synthetic oil is for that vehicle. I would be much more inclined to switch to synthetic to give my engine better protection and a longer life than for what I would feel would be a small MPG increase. I would also feel that, especially in tough driving conditions, or with a boosted engine, the mpg difference with synthetic might actually be large enough to be measured.
I still feel it is impossible to get a really accurate reading on mpg whenever city driving is involved. I drove in Los Angeles and Atlanta city traffic for 35 years, and although I stuck to a few preferred routes, I NEVER ONCE MADE TWO TRIPS THAT WERE EXACTLY ALIKE. To attribute a 10% decrease in mpg (21 to 19 mpg) to a change in oil is not realistic. Even the Royal Purple folks know most of the public wouldn't believe that.
I feel your plan to go with Castrol GTX to 20K, then go with full synthetic, is excellent. I have always had a good opinion of Castrol products. In reality, most of the engine breakin happens during the first 10K, so you could ease into full synthetic a little earlier than 20K without any problems if the mood strikes you.
Your info on WalMart oil change options is very interesting. I had never even considered having my oil changed at WalMart, but after you laid out the many options they offer, I will definitely keep them in mind.
Oil changes at places where things are done right do include checking/topping off all fluids. This is where a shop can be your best friend or your worst enemy. There is a right way and many wrong ways to do everything.
One would think changing the oil would be rather straight-forward. It is not. The 2nd gen Maxima required either heat-proof gloves or someone who didn't mind serious burns in order to extract the filter from between the engine and the firewall. Twice with that 2nd gen Maxima, I caught shops actually leaving the old filter in and charging me for a new one. In 58 1/2 years of driving, I have three times had the new filter not put on exactly right, and had oil leak out around the filter gasket. Twice, I have had the threads stripped on the drain plug at the bottom of the crankcase. Once, the drain plug was tightened so tightly the crankcase suffered a tear about two inches away, and the oil leaked out. Twice, the old filter had to be extracted by running a crowbar thru it and tearing it to shreds. Of course, considering I have had hundreds of oil changes, I could have had worse things happen.
The windshield washer fluid should be no problem, as long as they use quality fluid with a low freezing point. The power steering fluid and brake fluid can vary between vehicles of different auto manufacturers, but there are only a few varieties of each, so reputable shops should have no problem with this. Non-sealed batteries should be topped off with distilled water, but every shop I know uses tap water. If the coolant level is low, it should be topped off with a 50-50 mixture of anti-freeze and coolant. It is best to not mix different coolant types, but most types can be mixed without major problems.
But the most important 'top off' for 6th gen Maxima owners is the 5 speed auto tranny. Nissan is VERY VERY particular as to the type it REQUIRES in this tranny. Be sure and use ONLY the type recommended by Nissan (specified in the manual), else warranty issues can 'happen'. In an effort to avoid problems in this area, Nissan makes it difficult to even add tranny fluid.
But I am overloading the server here, so . . .
04Max_ILLIN - In your situation, and considering the way you drive, the engine should be fairly broken in by 10K, and you should be able to go straight to full synthetic at that time should you choose to do so. Of course using a blend during the conversion period would also work fine.
Chern - I suppose I have been jaded by a lifetime of finding that tests and claims were often not exactly what they were purported to be. Sure, the tests were done by other entities, but there could be other less-favorable tests by other entities that are not linked to the Royal Purple board. They surely would not link to any test that didn't make them look great. I will admit the linked tests seem meaningful.
I will also admit that the more aggressively a vehicle is driven, the better synthetic oil is for that vehicle. I would be much more inclined to switch to synthetic to give my engine better protection and a longer life than for what I would feel would be a small MPG increase. I would also feel that, especially in tough driving conditions, or with a boosted engine, the mpg difference with synthetic might actually be large enough to be measured.
Last edited by lightonthehill; 02-04-2008 at 02:40 AM.
02-04-2008, 08:15 AM
#48
bb700092 - You may well be right that some Nissan dealers go with whatever oil and filter they can get the cheapest. I would be disappointed, but not surprised.
But the most important 'top off' for 6th gen Maxima owners is the 5 speed auto tranny. Nissan is VERY VERY particular as to the type it REQUIRES in this tranny. Be sure and use ONLY the type recommended by Nissan (specified in the manual), else warranty issues can 'happen'. In an effort to avoid problems in this area, Nissan makes it difficult to even add tranny fluid.
But the most important 'top off' for 6th gen Maxima owners is the 5 speed auto tranny. Nissan is VERY VERY particular as to the type it REQUIRES in this tranny. Be sure and use ONLY the type recommended by Nissan (specified in the manual), else warranty issues can 'happen'. In an effort to avoid problems in this area, Nissan makes it difficult to even add tranny fluid.
The CVT is even pickier about the fluid required. Another reason not to let the grease monkeys touch your car. Warranty will be voided if anything other than Nissan CVT fluid is used. Those things you mentioned about stripped drain plugs and improperly installed filters scare me! Its so easy a caveman could do it...
02-04-2008, 06:39 PM
#49
Not sure where the 6k mile mark came from but that is a waste for full synthetic. Mobil 1 lists up to 15k miles and Amsoil full syn is 25k miles. I recommend to most of the people I sell Amsoil to that they run it at least 10k miles and swap filters at the halfway mark. If you are under warranty and don't want to run the oil that long full syn is kind of a waste of money. A blend is better. I would recommend an oil analysis if you are going to run a daily driver for a year on the same oil. My truck oil goes a year but it rarely gets driven. Fiance's Jeep gets the XL-7500 and oil changes at max interval per warranty of 6k. Its not a blend but its priced like one!
Yes, Mobil 1 Extended Performance does as it contains different ratio of lubricants to cleaners.
Running an oil for a year is not a problem as long as you don't go past the milage mark. When I said 6K miles or a year, I also said whichever comes first.
At $25 per 5 quarts of Mobil 1, I'd rather be safe then sorry. Sometimes my lunch costs more.
02-08-2008, 08:28 AM
#50
Double the 3K mark of dyno oil. Not really a waste as last time I sent it in to BlackStone there was a little life to it left.
Yes, Mobil 1 Extended Performance does as it contains different ratio of lubricants to cleaners.
Running an oil for a year is not a problem as long as you don't go past the milage mark. When I said 6K miles or a year, I also said whichever comes first.
At $25 per 5 quarts of Mobil 1, I'd rather be safe then sorry. Sometimes my lunch costs more.
Yes, Mobil 1 Extended Performance does as it contains different ratio of lubricants to cleaners.
Running an oil for a year is not a problem as long as you don't go past the milage mark. When I said 6K miles or a year, I also said whichever comes first.
At $25 per 5 quarts of Mobil 1, I'd rather be safe then sorry. Sometimes my lunch costs more.
I didn't know they had two versions of Mobil 1. That is pretty lame. I thought they simply used the 15k mile interval to show how great a product the original Mobil 1 is. How much more does the extended performance cost? Amsoil's standard synthetic eats Mobil 1's lunch as far as extended drains go. 50% more SuperSyn! Whoa, watch out, that snake oil can get slippery.
08-04-2008, 11:02 PM
#52
Like you said, a lot of it depends on mileage. We have a guy at work who drives 80 miles a day commuting. I am much closer. But you're saying if 6k miles pops up, you need to change the oil. That is only true if you are under warranty. I like to use 10k or a year as a more realistic alternative to the average persons schedule.
I didn't know they had two versions of Mobil 1. That is pretty lame. I thought they simply used the 15k mile interval to show how great a product the original Mobil 1 is. How much more does the extended performance cost? Amsoil's standard synthetic eats Mobil 1's lunch as far as extended drains go. 50% more SuperSyn! Whoa, watch out, that snake oil can get slippery.
I didn't know they had two versions of Mobil 1. That is pretty lame. I thought they simply used the 15k mile interval to show how great a product the original Mobil 1 is. How much more does the extended performance cost? Amsoil's standard synthetic eats Mobil 1's lunch as far as extended drains go. 50% more SuperSyn! Whoa, watch out, that snake oil can get slippery.
Amsoil is a great oil but just telling people to leave it in for 10k is no different then doing the same with any off the shelf synthetic, I've seen the the full setup for Amsoil long life oil or whatever it's called and only after I install the amsoil air filter, fuel filter and secondary oil filters would I go long distance, but as of right now the system in most cars is adequate at best in keeping the oil clean, cause it's not that oil needs to be replaced cause it wears out but because all the air and fuel contaminants that end up in it.
08-05-2008, 06:34 AM
#54
I wish I had the mentality of a girl, if the dealer tells me to drive 7000 miles on dino oil, the next time I come in for an oil change I'll have 7000 more miles on the car, I'll be more concerned with the alfit that day then anything else
08-05-2008, 05:21 PM
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