Racingline FSTB Install
04-03-2008, 01:14 PM
#83
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13
Racingline FSTB installation A/C line relocation
I just installed my Racingline FSTB and I thought I would share my solution to repositioning the A/C line that runs close to the passenger side strut tower.
I removed the white nylon retaining clip (that holds the 5/16" diameter A/C line) from the mounting bracket that bolts to the strut tower. I replaced the clip with a 3/8" nylon cable clamp (available from Lowes or Home Depot). I could not find a 5/16" cable clamp, so I wrapped the A/C line in a piece of scrap insulation from a heavy duty electrical cord I had lying around. It was just thick enough to give the line a snug fit in the 3/8" cable clamp. I attached the cable clamp to the bracket using a #10 x 1/2" screw with a locknut through the existing hole in the bracket.
I also used 2 pieces of 5/16" fuel line that I split down the middle and wrapped around to the A/C line and secured with zip ties to prevent any possible damage to the A/C line by rubbing at potential contact points. This probably wasn’t even necessary, as it looks like the A/C line has adequate clearance at all points.
I only took one short test drive with the new FSTB installed and I really think it makes a noticeable difference in tightening up the front end.
I removed the white nylon retaining clip (that holds the 5/16" diameter A/C line) from the mounting bracket that bolts to the strut tower. I replaced the clip with a 3/8" nylon cable clamp (available from Lowes or Home Depot). I could not find a 5/16" cable clamp, so I wrapped the A/C line in a piece of scrap insulation from a heavy duty electrical cord I had lying around. It was just thick enough to give the line a snug fit in the 3/8" cable clamp. I attached the cable clamp to the bracket using a #10 x 1/2" screw with a locknut through the existing hole in the bracket.
I also used 2 pieces of 5/16" fuel line that I split down the middle and wrapped around to the A/C line and secured with zip ties to prevent any possible damage to the A/C line by rubbing at potential contact points. This probably wasn’t even necessary, as it looks like the A/C line has adequate clearance at all points.
I only took one short test drive with the new FSTB installed and I really think it makes a noticeable difference in tightening up the front end.
Last edited by DocJohn; 04-03-2008 at 01:35 PM.
04-22-2008, 06:18 AM
#88
Strut bolt torque specs
I just installed my Racingline FSTB and upon taking the three bolts off the strut mount I noticed they weren't as tight as most of you have posted in the past. At the time I was using my torque wrench, set at 50 lbs, all bolts torqued fine except for one. It wouldn't torque to spec. I'm worried the nut might be on the verge of being stripped. It's in place and holding. I think when I have my Eibach springs and GR2's installed I'll have them put a new bolt and nut in it's place. What is everyone's thoughts on this?
Is 40 to 50 lbs really the spec'ed torque? I wonder....
Kevin
Is 40 to 50 lbs really the spec'ed torque? I wonder....
Kevin
04-22-2008, 06:50 AM
#89
04-22-2008, 09:44 AM
#91
I did mine as tight as I could get- using all of the torque my 6'1" and 196 lbs body and a 18 inch long socket wrench could muster. With that wobbly suspension I figured tighter is better. 
04-22-2008, 10:10 AM
#92
This was the exact thread I actually was refering to. I can't imagine those bolts holding that much lbs. Atleast mine won't. I was just shocked to find mine to loose in the first place. The car only has 27k on it. I called the nissan stealership, of course, they didn't care to give up the specs. I've tried looking online for official documentation. No luck there. Oh well. Like I said, I'll just replace the bolt & nut that isn't tightening to 50 lbs. Thanks everyone!
Can someone close this thread, please????
Kevin
Can someone close this thread, please????
Kevin
04-22-2008, 06:13 PM
#93
Service manual say 31-37 ft-lb for the 3 nuts. If the bolt or nut is stripped, I would get a new strut bearing/mount - KYB SM5409 $45.
OEM strut center nut is 44-65 lbs.
OEM strut center nut is 44-65 lbs.
Last edited by madmik; 04-22-2008 at 06:17 PM.
06-24-2008, 08:13 AM
#94
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Toronto
Posts: 82
Happy Birthday to Me!!
My FSTB and tie down bar arrived last week. Looks great and fit with minor AC line bending. Also feels really nice in conjunction with the Progress rear sway.
Thanks Taz!
...sorry about the camphone pics.
Here's the trim (dremel) you need to do on the right strut cover....
...and the very slight trim your need to do on the left one.
Fin.
Thanks Taz!
...sorry about the camphone pics.
Here's the trim (dremel) you need to do on the right strut cover....
...and the very slight trim your need to do on the left one.
Fin.
Last edited by Mikesima; 05-05-2010 at 02:45 AM.
06-27-2008, 03:37 PM
#96
Gotta get my MMI installed soon. With the IM spacers, I get knocking on acceleration/some turns.
Hopefully the MMI will nip that in the bud.
But I'm waiting for the headers from Brian, so I can just do it all together. Wah!
Hopefully the MMI will nip that in the bud.
But I'm waiting for the headers from Brian, so I can just do it all together. Wah!
Can't wait.
07-09-2008, 08:13 PM
#98
Question ...Racingline performance is on ebay? Is that you Taz, not some knockoff guy ? The endlinks and FSTB are way cheaper on ebay...hmmm. I dunno if its real or not.
Last edited by 04MAX_ILLIN; 07-09-2008 at 09:10 PM.
07-09-2008, 10:03 PM
#99
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: vancouver, BC
Posts: 589
ya I put some stuff one ebay last week just to test the waters, it is only slightly cheaper after shipping is factored, and only for exposed/testing purposes. Prices will rise to reflect those of racinglineperformance.com within a weeks time or so. Concider it an unofficial sale.
07-10-2008, 06:55 PM
#100
ya I put some stuff one ebay last week just to test the waters, it is only slightly cheaper after shipping is factored, and only for exposed/testing purposes. Prices will rise to reflect those of racinglineperformance.com within a weeks time or so. Concider it an unofficial sale.
07-14-2008, 01:42 PM
#102
07-22-2008, 04:28 PM
#106
Yes. I had to lossen the bolt between the bracket and the bar. Keep the bolt in there but only lossen the locking nut. This was the only way to get the drivers side braket to sit flush
07-24-2008, 08:28 PM
#109
No rubbing so far. I did pump more air into my new HP General Z rated tires. I found that since I only lowered the front that the HP tires do great with 40psi in rear and 38 in front. This reduces the Squat that the stock rear shocks like to do when accelerating. Now I can feel the handling with the bar and I can pretty much swing the car around corners without fully hitting the brakes....
07-25-2008, 09:03 AM
#110
Looking at everyones sigs you can tell they have 04-06 models.
07-26-2008, 09:41 AM
#112
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 607
After spending almost $100 on a handling mod, you can't say much for handling? What kind of mod is that? I wonder if all the talk about better handling is legit or just psychological and ways of justifying the money spent. After so many people purchasing the Racingline FSTB and posing rave feedbacks, we now know multiple people having rubbing issues, just like the Stillen FSTB.
07-26-2008, 10:14 AM
#113
well fstb's on maximas never really provided huge benefits. since our struts are located so close to the rear of the engine bay.
BUT
when i upgraded my rsb and endlinks, i changed the handling from understeer to oversteer. which i wanted.
adding the fstb the car handles almost neutral.
just wanted to give a heads up that my bar rubbed. i did replace my hood, so maybe that's why, but i see others have it in the same spot.
BUT
when i upgraded my rsb and endlinks, i changed the handling from understeer to oversteer. which i wanted.
adding the fstb the car handles almost neutral.
just wanted to give a heads up that my bar rubbed. i did replace my hood, so maybe that's why, but i see others have it in the same spot.
07-26-2008, 11:47 AM
#114
After spending almost $100 on a handling mod, you can't say much for handling? What kind of mod is that? I wonder if all the talk about better handling is legit or just psychological and ways of justifying the money spent. After so many people purchasing the Racingline FSTB and posing rave feedbacks, we now know multiple people having rubbing issues, just like the Stillen FSTB.
No rubbing so far. I did pump more air into my new HP General Z rated tires. I found that since I only lowered the front that the HP tires do great with 40psi in rear and 38 in front. This reduces the Squat that the stock rear shocks like to do when accelerating. Now I can feel the handling with the bar and I can pretty much swing the car around corners without fully hitting the brakes....
07-26-2008, 07:13 PM
#115
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: vancouver, BC
Posts: 589
well I've sold nearly 250 of these since october and the 3 posts above are the only mention of rubbing I have heard of to date. I'm sure by searching you will see that most people will say theirs are not rubbing and they DID fell a difference in handling. AS for teh 3 that said they do have rubbing All I can say is either (a) maybe they gt a SLIGHTLY misaligned product, or (b) has their car even been in a frontal collision? cause that will throw the geometry out a little reguardless of what the body shop says "spec" is. That little bit may be enough to allow rubbing to occur. Certifiable spec ratings on a frame are actually pretty big with big alignment settings used to compensate.
07-26-2008, 09:42 PM
#116
Check your steering axis inclination and included angle during alignment. Best way to know.
well I've sold nearly 250 of these since october and the 3 posts above are the only mention of rubbing I have heard of to date. I'm sure by searching you will see that most people will say theirs are not rubbing and they DID fell a difference in handling. AS for teh 3 that said they do have rubbing All I can say is either (a) maybe they gt a SLIGHTLY misaligned product, or (b) has their car even been in a frontal collision? cause that will throw the geometry out a little reguardless of what the body shop says "spec" is. That little bit may be enough to allow rubbing to occur. Certifiable spec ratings on a frame are actually pretty big with big alignment settings used to compensate.
08-20-2008, 06:43 AM
#117
Make me the fourth person. I just noticed a rub mark on my hood and tower bar.
well I've sold nearly 250 of these since october and the 3 posts above are the only mention of rubbing I have heard of to date. I'm sure by searching you will see that most people will say theirs are not rubbing and they DID fell a difference in handling. AS for teh 3 that said they do have rubbing All I can say is either (a) maybe they gt a SLIGHTLY misaligned product, or (b) has their car even been in a frontal collision? cause that will throw the geometry out a little reguardless of what the body shop says "spec" is. That little bit may be enough to allow rubbing to occur. Certifiable spec ratings on a frame are actually pretty big with big alignment settings used to compensate.
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