View Poll Results: What is your experience with the 5AT?
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RE5F22A TRANSMISSION FIX
They will match the price
2 local dealerships matched the $845 price for me, didn't even ask who and where Courtesy Nissan was. I even mentioned to one that I knew I would have to pay shipping, they still matched it. I got everything done for $1015, took about 2 1/2 hours. Car shifts great after scooting around town and romping it on the highway a little. Time will tell...
2 local dealerships matched the $845 price for me, didn't even ask who and where Courtesy Nissan was. I even mentioned to one that I knew I would have to pay shipping, they still matched it. I got everything done for $1015, took about 2 1/2 hours. Car shifts great after scooting around town and romping it on the highway a little. Time will tell...
2 local dealerships matched the $845 price for me, didn't even ask who and where Courtesy Nissan was. I even mentioned to one that I knew I would have to pay shipping, they still matched it. I got everything done for $1015, took about 2 1/2 hours. Car shifts great after scooting around town and romping it on the highway a little. Time will tell...
Ok so I called napleton nissan off of blue heron blvd, the guy said the price for the valve body would be 1,056 and that he couldn't give me the $844 on courtesy parts because it was a big discount. He also mentioned that he didn't know where the other dealer got $1200 from. And the part he was giving me was also 8Y00A, if this 8Y00A is the replacement for 8Y001 is this valvebody updated or is the same OEM one? Meaning same problems down the road.
Sorry if some of these questions already been asked, I may just be overlooking them.
Sorry if some of these questions already been asked, I may just be overlooking them.
Ok so I called napleton nissan off of blue heron blvd, the guy said the price for the valve body would be 1,056 and that he couldn't give me the $844 on courtesy parts because it was a big discount. He also mentioned that he didn't know where the other dealer got $1200 from. And the part he was giving me was also 8Y00A, if this 8Y00A is the replacement for 8Y001 is this valvebody updated or is the same OEM one? Meaning same problems down the road.
Sorry if some of these questions already been asked, I may just be overlooking them.
Sorry if some of these questions already been asked, I may just be overlooking them.
No, these are revised valves. they fix the other issue.
Any reputable shops in the SF bay area?
Hi,
I am too having the same issues on my maxima and I would like to have my transmission fixed however it seems like all the dealers/shops around me are starving and want to charge an arm and a leg for any of the options.
The one shop who even knows what i was talking about claims to have a really skilled former employee of transgo that can do the kit but they wanted $1500 for it and no warranty!.... what a bunch of crooks
The 2 delaerships near me (Nissan in Petaluma and Santa Rosa) know about the problem and were surprised i had knowledge of the TSB and told me that they could order it for me and install it for around $1800 but they recommended me to replace the transmission instead since thats what they have been doing for customers with that problem.....
Does anyone know a reputable shop/dealer in the bay area that will do either a kit or order and install the oem valve body at a reasonable cost?
Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I am too having the same issues on my maxima and I would like to have my transmission fixed however it seems like all the dealers/shops around me are starving and want to charge an arm and a leg for any of the options.
The one shop who even knows what i was talking about claims to have a really skilled former employee of transgo that can do the kit but they wanted $1500 for it and no warranty!.... what a bunch of crooks
The 2 delaerships near me (Nissan in Petaluma and Santa Rosa) know about the problem and were surprised i had knowledge of the TSB and told me that they could order it for me and install it for around $1800 but they recommended me to replace the transmission instead since thats what they have been doing for customers with that problem.....
Does anyone know a reputable shop/dealer in the bay area that will do either a kit or order and install the oem valve body at a reasonable cost?
Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I know it is a little far for you but i picked up a new valve body at nissan in san leandro, they quoted me 1200, but i told them I could get it at courtesy nissan for 845 and they then matched the price. I took my car to Schucks transmission in dublin, very happy with the service and would definately recommend this shop. Only charged like 300 to install valve body, but I did have my own tranny fluid and gasket, so it might be more if you dont supply your own.
Ok so I emailed the 1st dealership yesterday (Royal Palm Nissan) that had quoted me 1200 for the part. I told them my issue. I gave them my info as far as year of the car, vin number and told them I was quoted 1200 for it. I sent them a link to courtesy parts and that there price was 845, I got a reply a short time later from I am assuming the manager. He was apologetic about the prize mix up and said he would match courtesy parts price. BINGO I pick the part up tommorow morning, I would suggest anyone having price issues to email the dealer as it would possibly go to a manager and not some parts employee that thinks that's to much of a discount. Good luck guys and hopefully this fixes my issues.
Hey guys, I had my transmission replaced with a factory rebuilt last April (2010) by a local transmission shop, but I still experience occasional hard shifting, but no slipping that I'm aware of.
My question is; is it worth my while to buy the Transgo kit and take it back to my tranny shop and ask them to install the kit or have I probably already damaged this new transmission?
Thanks for any input!
My question is; is it worth my while to buy the Transgo kit and take it back to my tranny shop and ask them to install the kit or have I probably already damaged this new transmission?
Thanks for any input!
Hey guys, I had my transmission replaced with a factory rebuilt last April (2010) by a local transmission shop, but I still experience occasional hard shifting, but no slipping that I'm aware of.
My question is; is it worth my while to buy the Transgo kit and take it back to my tranny shop and ask them to install the kit or have I probably already damaged this new transmission?
Thanks for any input!
My question is; is it worth my while to buy the Transgo kit and take it back to my tranny shop and ask them to install the kit or have I probably already damaged this new transmission?
Thanks for any input!
Odds are the problem was never with the transmission. Do the kit or replace the VB.
Edit: Take it to a performance shop to install the VB kit.
Last edited by xxzimmer; Sep 15, 2011 at 07:13 PM.
Excellent information on this thread regarding the Maxima transmission issues. I am dealing with the same problems with my 2006 Maxima SE. The hard shift and occasional RPM flare. I want to go the TransGo shift kit route, but it is hard to find anyone to do it. Can anyone recommend a person, transmission or performance shop in the Va/Md/Nc area that will do this work? I live in Richmond, Va and I'm willing to travel, but it is hard to find anyone to do the work. Everyone wants to replace the whole transmission, which is not necessary.
Questions:
So I believe I'm ready for a new valve body. I will need a VB which is @ $850. and fluid. Are there any other parts needed, like a gasket or anything else? And what is a reasonable fee to have it installed by a decent mechanic/shop? Do you usually get a guaranty from shops or dealerships on these jobs?
So I believe I'm ready for a new valve body. I will need a VB which is @ $850. and fluid. Are there any other parts needed, like a gasket or anything else? And what is a reasonable fee to have it installed by a decent mechanic/shop? Do you usually get a guaranty from shops or dealerships on these jobs?
Excellent information on this thread regarding the Maxima transmission issues. I am dealing with the same problems with my 2006 Maxima SE. The hard shift and occasional RPM flare. I want to go the TransGo shift kit route, but it is hard to find anyone to do it. Can anyone recommend a person, transmission or performance shop in the Va/Md/Nc area that will do this work? I live in Richmond, Va and I'm willing to travel, but it is hard to find anyone to do the work. Everyone wants to replace the whole transmission, which is not necessary.
No idea, look up local race shops/performance transmission shops. Look under local car forums. If you want to take it off yourself and ship it to me I'll do it for 125, plus parts and shipping.
EDIT: Googled "performance shops in Richmond VA" and this was one of the first listed http://www.performanceautosport.com/...d-fabrication/
Last edited by xxzimmer; Sep 16, 2011 at 05:50 PM.
Questions:
So I believe I'm ready for a new valve body. I will need a VB which is @ $850. and fluid. Are there any other parts needed, like a gasket or anything else? And what is a reasonable fee to have it installed by a decent mechanic/shop? Do you usually get a guaranty from shops or dealerships on these jobs?
So I believe I'm ready for a new valve body. I will need a VB which is @ $850. and fluid. Are there any other parts needed, like a gasket or anything else? And what is a reasonable fee to have it installed by a decent mechanic/shop? Do you usually get a guaranty from shops or dealerships on these jobs?
If a shop is gonna do it, 350-425 (and that is HIGH.) No gasket needed you use rtv, but if you are due for a fluid change do that too and change the filter.
I have the same issues as many other, so glad I found this forum. Now the decision on the best way to fix the problem.
I have a 2006 Maxima with 62,000. The problem started a couple of months ago when slowing down to make a turn once you accelarate the car revs, back off the throttle and try again all is fine. Then the hard shifting started, almost like the car has a race performance shift kit and the the P0780 code which many other have gotten. Local guy that works on Toyota's suggested I unplug the battery for several hours, that the ECU learned driving habits and that resetting the computer on Toyota's fix this type problem is some cases.
Car drove better for a couple of weeks they the code came back. Let the guys flush the transmission. The fluid was brown and he said had a metalic look to it although no metal. I have read thru all 20 pages and it seems everyone here has the same issue. Any regrets changing the VB or using the kits mentioned?
Thanks
I have a 2006 Maxima with 62,000. The problem started a couple of months ago when slowing down to make a turn once you accelarate the car revs, back off the throttle and try again all is fine. Then the hard shifting started, almost like the car has a race performance shift kit and the the P0780 code which many other have gotten. Local guy that works on Toyota's suggested I unplug the battery for several hours, that the ECU learned driving habits and that resetting the computer on Toyota's fix this type problem is some cases.
Car drove better for a couple of weeks they the code came back. Let the guys flush the transmission. The fluid was brown and he said had a metalic look to it although no metal. I have read thru all 20 pages and it seems everyone here has the same issue. Any regrets changing the VB or using the kits mentioned?
Thanks
I have the same issues as many other, so glad I found this forum. Now the decision on the best way to fix the problem.
I have a 2006 Maxima with 62,000. The problem started a couple of months ago when slowing down to make a turn once you accelarate the car revs, back off the throttle and try again all is fine. Then the hard shifting started, almost like the car has a race performance shift kit and the the P0780 code which many other have gotten. Local guy that works on Toyota's suggested I unplug the battery for several hours, that the ECU learned driving habits and that resetting the computer on Toyota's fix this type problem is some cases.
Car drove better for a couple of weeks they the code came back. Let the guys flush the transmission. The fluid was brown and he said had a metalic look to it although no metal. I have read thru all 20 pages and it seems everyone here has the same issue. Any regrets changing the VB or using the kits mentioned?
Thanks
I have a 2006 Maxima with 62,000. The problem started a couple of months ago when slowing down to make a turn once you accelarate the car revs, back off the throttle and try again all is fine. Then the hard shifting started, almost like the car has a race performance shift kit and the the P0780 code which many other have gotten. Local guy that works on Toyota's suggested I unplug the battery for several hours, that the ECU learned driving habits and that resetting the computer on Toyota's fix this type problem is some cases.
Car drove better for a couple of weeks they the code came back. Let the guys flush the transmission. The fluid was brown and he said had a metalic look to it although no metal. I have read thru all 20 pages and it seems everyone here has the same issue. Any regrets changing the VB or using the kits mentioned?
Thanks
Bump
Scrui,
I still don't undertand why did you go with 31705-8Y00A instead of latest version 31705-8Y00B?
Here is the break down if someone need to understand this whole valve body part numbering scheme.
31705-8Y000 = First version = Discontinued
31705-8Y001 = Next+ version = Replaced by 31705-8Y00A
31705-8Y002 = Next ++ version = Replaced by 31705-8Y00B
(I was told 31705-8Y00C is coming out soon.....seems like NOT)
They all are interchangeable. At least that's what I confirmed from 3 dealers.
The price is right at $850. Almost 80% of dealers will agree to let this go for $850.
I still don't undertand why did you go with 31705-8Y00A instead of latest version 31705-8Y00B?
Here is the break down if someone need to understand this whole valve body part numbering scheme.
31705-8Y000 = First version = Discontinued
31705-8Y001 = Next+ version = Replaced by 31705-8Y00A
31705-8Y002 = Next ++ version = Replaced by 31705-8Y00B
(I was told 31705-8Y00C is coming out soon.....seems like NOT)
They all are interchangeable. At least that's what I confirmed from 3 dealers.
The price is right at $850. Almost 80% of dealers will agree to let this go for $850.
Exactly what was done to mine in replacing the valve body last weekend after years of shift problems. now it shiftslike a charm.
Thanks everyone for posting on this subject. I was having all the symptoms as everyone else with the 5sp at. I just got my body valve replaced today, and its day and night difference! Roughly 1200 out the door at local Nissan stealership. 844 for the new revised Nissan valve body, and 2hrs labor @ 88 an hr. Biggest surprise was them charging me 8 $ per pan bolt. If I were to do it myself I prob wouldn't of replaced them, butt yeah. Thanks Again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The 6th gen is a nice car, but Nissan certainly screwed up on its tranny big time. And now, in some devious fashion, they are making cool cash from the VB.
Last edited by Costee; Sep 27, 2011 at 02:55 AM.
Tell me about it. I'm here as a newbie to the ORG and as you'd guess it have been plauged with the same issues- Hard shifting from 1st-2nd-3rd, time lapes from R to D when tranny warm. About 11mths ago the tranny (5sp- SE) was stuck in 5th- Wouldn't come out other than P, R, N. No manual shifting as stuck in 5th. Took it into the trans shop and was notified the CSP sensor and the crank shaft sensor needed to be replaced. ($640) later, the guy noticed the bump in shifting and told me i needed to change the fluid. I didn't of course as I was trying to get rid of the shifting issue with a better solution but only came to the dealer wanting to sell me a new trans ($4600). I didn't buy it. Instead have been taking it very easy on the trans as much as I could until Friday when the Service engine soon light appeared. Took it right to the shop as yet again it stuck in 5th for a short time, until i cut it off. I've read the thread about the kits, and the "NEW" OEM VB. The code which was given is stating the VB silonid is stuck- Replace VB ($869) Plus labor and Fluid= $1200. Wish I would have found this forum earlier but what do you think my chances are to replacing the VB, Flushing the Trans a few times and getting more miles out of it. Current miles 167k.
Last edited by beas1977; Sep 26, 2011 at 06:41 PM. Reason: More to add
Yeah I know, I was anything butt happy to drop 1200 to fix someone else's F up, butt I got her fixed. It's always the workin-class stiff that gets the shaft. I really feel for those who don't have the time an money to get this fixed. I used to be a thousandaire, butt now I'm only a hundredaire. Spank You very little Nissan!
Tell me about it. I'm here as a newbie to the ORG and as you'd guess it have been plauged with the same issues- Hard shifting from 1st-2nd-3rd, time lapes from R to D when tranny warm. About 11mths ago the tranny (5sp- SE) was stuck in 5th- Wouldn't come out other than P, R, N. No manual shifting as stuck in 5th. Took it into the trans shop and was notified the CSP sensor and the crank shaft sensor needed to be replaced. ($640) later, the guy noticed the bump in shifting and told me i needed to change the fluid. I didn't of course as I was trying to get rid of the shifting issue with a better solution but only came to the dealer wanting to sell me a new trans ($4600). I didn't buy it. Instead have been taking it very easy on the trans as much as I could until Friday when the Service engine soon light appeared. Took it right to the shop as yet again it stuck in 5th for a short time, until i cut it off. I've read the thread about the kits, and the "NEW" OEM VB. The code which was given is stating the VB silonid is stuck- Replace VB ($869) Plus labor and Fluid= $1200. Wish I would have found this forum earlier but what do you think my chances are to replacing the VB, Flushing the Trans a few times and getting more miles out of it. Current miles 167k.
I think my biggest concern would be if there were any slivers or chunks of metal in the ATF, butt I don't know. There's a lot of good eggs here that know a lot more than I do. I drove mine for about 20k, til I thought things were gettin really bad. Thankfully I had my ol Honda Civic w/ 285k to fall back on. Good Luck!
I am looking into buying a 2007 Maxima V6 CVT 3.5L SE, does anyone know if there has been any tranny issues with this model year? i am currently driving a 2004 3.5 SE. I was having many of the same problems that others have reported on here. I had the transmission fluid and the filter changed, that increased my mileage by 100 miles per tank. still having problems though which is why I am interested in the "07.
Thanks in advance
Roger
Thanks in advance
Roger
I am looking into buying a 2007 Maxima V6 CVT 3.5L SE, does anyone know if there has been any tranny issues with this model year? i am currently driving a 2004 3.5 SE. I was having many of the same problems that others have reported on here. I had the transmission fluid and the filter changed, that increased my mileage by 100 miles per tank. still having problems though which is why I am interested in the "07.
Thanks in advance
Roger
Thanks in advance
Roger
I think my biggest concern would be if there were any slivers or chunks of metal in the ATF, butt I don't know. There's a lot of good eggs here that know a lot more than I do. I drove mine for about 20k, til I thought things were gettin really bad. Thankfully I had my ol Honda Civic w/ 285k to fall back on. Good Luck!
My gf's '04 started banging about a month ago. I was backing up at a gas station on our way to the best BBQ known to man... when I shifted to drive it slammed the car so hard I could swear I backed into the guy at the pump.
Anyway, I truly appreciate all of the knowledge you guys have compiled and shared with the world. I've ordered the shift kit from a guy on eBay for $99 shipped. Now I just need 15 posts so I can find a good shop in the Austin area to get the work done.
Thanks again for all the information.
Anyway, I truly appreciate all of the knowledge you guys have compiled and shared with the world. I've ordered the shift kit from a guy on eBay for $99 shipped. Now I just need 15 posts so I can find a good shop in the Austin area to get the work done.
Thanks again for all the information.
Just scooped a new valve body off ebay for $670
I am wondering what else I need to get
I hosted a quick guide previously written in this thread on my site for quick reference.
http://djliquidice.net/stuff/replace_valve_body.docx
Looks like I'll need a new gasket (just in case)
Also going to need RTV Silicone Sealent (i got the blue stuff)
Anything else I may be missing? (already got 6 quarts of ATF from a previous ATF change I bought a case of 12 bottles)
I wish someone had some pictures a little farther back so I could see where the valvebody is in relation to the axle etc.. other parts of the car so I know where I can imagine these pictures on the car. I know it's under the battery plate.
I am wondering what else I need to get
I hosted a quick guide previously written in this thread on my site for quick reference.
http://djliquidice.net/stuff/replace_valve_body.docx
Looks like I'll need a new gasket (just in case)
Also going to need RTV Silicone Sealent (i got the blue stuff)
Anything else I may be missing? (already got 6 quarts of ATF from a previous ATF change I bought a case of 12 bottles)
I wish someone had some pictures a little farther back so I could see where the valvebody is in relation to the axle etc.. other parts of the car so I know where I can imagine these pictures on the car. I know it's under the battery plate.
trannys in and the timing chains on its way out. Rear cat and 2 O2 sensors bad @ 98k miles. I only put grade A parts in my car and change the oil every 2500 miles. My cars worth 9500.00 and I just had it painted. I think it's time to jump ship. The trannys go from 40 to 80k depending on where and how you drive, Not to mention they were bad to begin with. The timing chain set up is so stupid. PLASTIC?? Come on. As for the cat I took it in before the 80 k mark because the exause was getting loud and someone told me it was a cat. Pine Belt Nissan in NJ said theres no code so its ok. Guess what. Now theres a code @ 90k. Don't get me wrong I love my car but it's like an expensive date and you wonder if it's worth it at the end. Good luck boys! If I didn't have so much in the decision would be very easy.
trannys in and the timing chains on its way out. Rear cat and 2 O2 sensors bad @ 98k miles. I only put grade A parts in my car and change the oil every 2500 miles. My cars worth 9500.00 and I just had it painted. I think it's time to jump ship. The trannys go from 40 to 80k depending on where and how you drive, Not to mention they were bad to begin with. The timing chain set up is so stupid. PLASTIC?? Come on. As for the cat I took it in before the 80 k mark because the exause was getting loud and someone told me it was a cat. Pine Belt Nissan in NJ said theres no code so its ok. Guess what. Now theres a code @ 90k. Don't get me wrong I love my car but it's like an expensive date and you wonder if it's worth it at the end. Good luck boys! If I didn't have so much in the decision would be very easy.























