I have had my 07 into the dealer recently and wanted to summarize the issues.

2 Years back ABS light came on.

Dealer wanted $3000 to fix it so I have been driving without ABS.

One month back the car started to experience intermittent acceleartyions issues. For example trying to get on expressway, the car would not get above 35-40 even with the RPM at 4k

I tool to my dealer and the car had no codes.

They said to take to nissan as they do not work on CVT.

$500 later, the dealer ran some codes and looked up the NTB.

-ABS controller is not responding across the CAN.
-Speed sensors need to be replaced.

Cost to fix $2500.

I spent the easter weekend replacing the ABS module and speed sensors

ABS module was hard to find for the 07 that is same module #.

47660 ZK40A is common but not the 47660 ZK30A

Finally found a donar vehicle after 4 hrs.

Front sensors where easy.

Rear I took recomended precautions, but still snapped one bolt. Will figure out the fix latter

 

So after all the work, I have following

From Key on I have Slip and VDC Off lights

After moving 10-15 ft the ABS and brake light come on

For codes, recall I had no codes before with hand scan tool

Now I have U1000, and C1124 and C1155 with hand scan tool

Scan tool says C1124 is Shaft speed signal, but online it says brake fluid level. The brake lines where bleed after module was replaced and the fluid is full

C1155 says Front wheel sensor so I need to recheck

So now for question.

I assume no need to flash the ABS module or clear the U1000.

Should I go back to the dealer to have them rescan, or should I tear the nuckle down and do a deep cleaning.

I wish I had an option to the dealer as they clearly have no experience with this issue.

I would be fine to getting back to no ABS, but the lack of acceleration is something I need to resolve.

 

I would go with "...should I tear the nuckle down and do a deep cleaning." Your time is free.

The 07s rear nuckles are problematic for the ABS. I would clean those up first. Being an 07, I imagine they are are not pristine.

 

Update for today.

I got the right rear hub off and cleaned up. The drain was completly plugged. I am debating wether I need a new plastic shield or not. New hub and brakes on order. I am still fighting with the broken bolt. About 3 hrs into that one. Having E brake and backer plate off allows access from the outside of vehicle to drill down center and soak from both sides. There is 1/4" tip on bolt that has no thread. The dissimilar metals sieze up in this region.

Needs new E brakes, but will do that latter.

 

Good. Clean up them drains. That is a significant issue with our 07s.

Take your time and have patience. She is an old girl. Take your time and she'll treat ya right.

 

Todays Update:

New rear brakes, rotors, and hubs, Cleaned out and opened up the drains. Put everything back together and same issue.

Only one light at key on (Slip). ABS pump actuates for 2-3 seconds then shuts off.

After driving 15 feet, the ABS pump comes on again. Immediatly the ABS, Brake and Traction control lights all come on.

So frustrating after 4 hrs doing all the brake work.

At this point everythin the Nissan said needs to be replaced has been replaced.

I guess the ABS pump could be bad.

My only option would be to try my luck with anouther module.

Any opinons if I should pay Nissan to scan for codes again before I replace the ABS module.

From what I have read, the ABS modules do not need to be flashed.

It is weird that the brake light is on now, and was not on when the original module was in.
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Weekend Update:

The car now has all new parts according to what the dealer told me. $500 service fee for nothing.

All new rear bearings, speed sensors, rear brakes, working abs Module.

I also cleaned the hub drains and opened up the passageway.

Still throwing the exact same codes as before.

The only change is now I have more lights on the dash. (All 4 after vehicle moving)

I did confirm the lights pop on regardless of forward movement or reverse movement.

10 seconds after any movement the ABS pump comes on for a second time and all the lights come on.

I took it for a drive, and had no issues accelerating.

Since I waisted $500 on the first visit to dealership, I can not believe I will be takin git back for more worthlerss advise.

Maybe they will let me watch over their shoulder so I can demand to see the scope readings from each wheel sensor.

I will call a couple shops to see if any have the equipment to see the speed sensor signals.

 

Update: Took the car down to shop so I could see if the Speed sensors working. Sure enough, all sensors are working. Mechanic again told me only the dealership has the tools to look deeper and it should not be a fishing expedition on their part.

Called up the dealership, and was told that they would charge me a $300 fee to go over all the work and confirm it was done right. After some heated words, I go tthe service manager. I went through the ful lhistory of how I had payed $500 for a list of parts that needed to be replaced, then spent $800 replacing all those parts, and in the end, I still have the exact same error code. He agree to cut the fee down to $150 to run the basic code scan again.

When I asked why they had me change the speed sensors, they said becuase there was static on the signal. My responce was, with 15 years of crude buildup, they could have recomended a cleaning before the replacement.

Dropped the car at the dealiship, and we will see if it does any good. This way they can look to see if there can find any difference in codes given the $800 in new parts.

 

Update: The dealership ran all the advanced codes and said everything checks out except the ABS module.

They confirmed no flash was needed.

They believe the new to me ABS module has same design flaw as the original causing the same error. They advised that I spend the $1000 for a NOS unit of the latest generation ABS module. They said nearly every used unit has been overused because of the design flaw with the rear ABS sensors.

I decided to have one more go with a used ABS module. Going with a newer vintage, I may need to have this one flashed.

 

Good luck, bro!

 

I recieved the new ABS module, First thing I noticed was that it did not feel as heavy. everything looked good so I started to install.

First problem I noticed is that two of the brake lines would need to be swappe3d out to a smaller size.

Hmm

Took a deeper look at the electrical connector is different.

So frustrating. Why would Nissan say this is an upgrade to the ABS module I have, then change out the electrical connector.

I have no idea if I am suppose to move the electronics over to the new Alluminum block that has the soln. Even if I do this, I would neet to cut into two of the brake lines. It just does not seem right to me that an interchange part would need such work without there being others that had same issue.

 

That does not sound like the correct part. Things like this happen all the time; it is just people and logistics. Take it back to the Dealer.

 

So I ran the VIN # of the doner vehicle and sure enough, I was sent the wrong part. I specifically asked for ABS module with vehicle dynamic control. Shipping invoice says that is exactly what I was sent. However running the VIN at Nissanpartsdeal.c_m says that vehicle has an abs module without vehicle dynamic control. So frustrating sellers are not double checking what they are selling.

So now I am on to my 3rd ABS module. I am going to insist that I get photos this time. From the electical connector polarity it is pretty easy to see which version is being sold.

On Monday I will try to get by shipping refunded as it is clearly an error on sellers part.

 

Update: It has been 6 months since I installed a used 47660-ZE51A

Original problem was the ABS module put the car in limp mode so it would not accelerate.
Worked with Nissan dealer on isolating the problem after new hubs, brakes, sensors. The NTSB was also applied to keep the ABS from overheating.

The new to me module only lasted 7 months.

I am now back to the periodic limp mode.

I have just started looking for a replacement module.

Nissan has a crazy scam going here in that they do not make any new modules for the 07-08 maxima.

Only option is to go with used, and these are harder and harder to find. 75% of the modules that shipped with 07-08 maxima will no longer work with an 07-08 maxima as Nissans latest software only works with the latest ECU.

Just need to get lucking that a 08 model built in late 2007 gets scrapped.

Now for the question. I keep seeing other threads where recomendation is to pull the A
BS module plug and the car shoudl run without the ABS.

This is fine for me as I just need to avoid the car going into limp mode.

Anyone know how to bypass the faulty ABS module that is causing perfectly good cars to be scrapped.

 

Hey Chablis,
I'm running into the same problem with my 07 Maxima. I'm having hell of a time trying to find a replacement for 47660ZK30A!! I'm on my 2nd ABS order from a salvage yard saying they have 47660ZK31A, and they send me 47660ZK40A. Heck, I tried searching for 47660-ZE51A and I couldn't find one.
There are plenty of maximas out there but these things are incredibly hard to find. I refuse to go to the stealership. Even if I did find a ZE51A, I don't want to miss around with updating ECM software. Its a waste of money. I'm at a point of asking salvage yards to show me a picture of the part with the part no stamped on it to prove they do have a 47660ZK31A.
How did you end up finding one?

 

hello

I used the vin number, You can not use eBay. I am not home, but there is an online marketplace that lists used inventory by year and vin. There are always 5-10 for sale but many are getting pricey. I always have them confirm pn. Many say they are interchangeable, but they are not.

I can not recall if I put the website on earlier post. It is used as an exchange between junk yards.