not exactly. if you have the S model, you will have to purchase the switch as well for it to come on with the headlight

 

So, I had a wierd thing happen with my DIY HID install. Last night, when I turned the car on, both bulbs sparked but failed to stay lit. I turned the lights on manually (from auto mode) both sparked and one stayed lit. I didn't notice it until I got home. Then I turned them off and on again and both stayed lit.

For what it's worth, I have the AGT Digital Slim ballasts. Now I'm paranoid that only one bulb will be lit up all the time...

Anyone else with similar experiences?

 

Just got a chance to throw my new bulbs in yesterday. This pic is obviously in direct sunlight, but I've found this is when the 4300k's look the yellowest. Look very carefully and you can tell that the 4300k on the left have a slight yellowish tint, while the 5000k on the right is much more of a pure white, thus matching the OEM color a bit better. They look even better at night.

 

Why did you remove the front plate? The grill looks really good and I wish sometimes I had bought a used one and not a lease this way I would have money to play with. Oh hid's look good.

 

Just registered so bear with me! lol All this talk about D2s and H11 and connectors and everything else has my head spinning. I have a 2010 Max S and I'm looking to put HID's in(headlights only). I bought 8k's with ballasts off Ebay and seen nothing but good reviews about em. With that being said..."out" of the ballasts there are 2 AMP connectors that are connected to the H11 bulb itself. But there is also a wire with a female connector on one end and 2 metal connectors on the other. These wires are put throught the rubber boot also. Do I even need those wires? Or do all I need is the "out" of the ballast right to the bulb itself?

 

Nope. No need for that other Wire or that stupid rubber part. I am not sure what they are for but those kits are made to cover a wide range of cars so they are possibly used for some other make and model but not with the 7th gen. D2s is the stock bulb for our cars that come with factory HIDs. Good luck.

 

Nice. From the daytime picks you can def tell the diff from left to right. They look nice. When you get a chance snap some night pics so the color is more visible. How do you like them? I am running 6000k top and bottom. I would want to switch them to 5000k if they are more pure white ( less blue than 6000k, less yellow than 4300k.) Let us know you opinion from the drivers seat. They say the lower the K the more Lumens the light puts off and I want to see the most clear road without that ugly yellow tint. Where did you get the 5000k? Have you found them in a D2S? Thanks for the pics!

 

Ok, so I don't usually black out my license plate for posting, but I was already in paint to crop the close-up and it seemed like my license plate was so darn huge in that pic, lol.

Flip- thanks, in person you can see the difference even more. They are definitly less yellow, but no where near blue. I will take some night pics when I get around to it. My first impression is that they are the whitest you can go without getting into blues. And light output is great, I can't notice any difference from the 4300's.

I havn't even looked for D2S bulbs because I plan on just keeping the OEM hids. My goal was to simply match the fogs as best I could. That being said, VVME.com (where I got all my stuff) sells D2S in allll sorts of colors (even pink if you want) here. What quality they are, I don't know. I have had fine luck with my fogs though.

 

Because I have the S model it doesnt come with factory HIDS. And when I checked the buld size in the manual it says H11 because its not "equipped" with HIDs. So do I need to buy D2S or will the H11's that I have work?

 

You want H11's. D2S is the OEM HID bulb size.

Is the kit "plug-n-play"? i.e. does the factory H11 harness plug right into the ballast (this is not usually the case)? If not here's what I did - soldered a weatherproof connection onto the HID leads where the stupid spade terminals used to be:

 

This is the setup I have. I haven't checked the setup yet on my car yet to see what the factory housing looks like, but I'm assuming its plug and play.

 

Oh nice, that looks like you should be all set. If not, now you know what I did.

 

OK cool! So just to double check, if it all turns out to be plug and play I can ditch the connection with the 2 metal connections right?

 

Correct.

 

you need the H11.

 

You bought the right kit. It will work our perfect. Plug n play

 

I had to make an adapter for mine because the ballast connector was a female connector - same as my car's harness. I can't quite tell from your picture, but you may be in the same situation.

 

H11 headlights (the actual bulb) has a female connection. Your saying your cars harness is a female aswell? Are you sure about that? The plug to switch the ballast on and off is made to act like the original H11 bulb so the factory wires can plug right into it.
I dunno what you did to your car but here is an h11 bulb. I would imagine the wire that plugs into it from your car would have to be a male

 

Nope, that's a male H11 connector on that bulb. The metal prongs stick out on it (it's like a very small metal ***** LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL, that's why they call it male )

 

Agreed, and the car's harness has a pair of holes that those prongs go into.... hence... female

 

Now before I go ripping things apart, is there any trick to dropping the fender wall? I'd rather not start snapping the plastic shroud tabs.

 

for fog install or headlight conversion?

 

This is just gonna be for the headlight conversion

 

the tabs come out easily. flat head screw driver and slowly pop out the center of the clip. the clip will fall right out

remove the front wheel
wheel well liner: pull out the forward (towards front of car) clips and the clips on the far side near the front
Also remove the 3 little screws along the bottom of the bumper and two plastic clips for the the splash shield (underneath)

 

I'm just thinkin on the bigger scale like the car wires plug into the bulb like a slightly bigger plastic *****...

Anywho, either way you should always have to have a male and female style plugs or else you can't make little HID babies...

 

That kit is not plug n play. It is a universal kit with H11 bulbs. The two wires with prongs connect to your factory harness which is currently attached to your factory bulb. You need to slide them in and then wrap it in tape or do as ANNINO did and add the proper connector. The connector with the yellow gasket attaches to the one coming off the ballast and should be tested for proper polarity prior to closing everything up. You could also order new bulbs that have the connector built in therefor making it true plug and play. It will work with what you have but you need to do more than open the box. This is what most Hid resellers are using to keep cost down and move units non specific.

 

So am I going to have to buy another connection or just insert the metal connections into the factory harness?

 

Yeah, it gets complicated. All these transvestite plugs, where the male metal contacts go inside the female plug, which is then surrounded by the larger male plug. I think the determining factor is the metal contact, though.

 

Yup you are right. Atleast you understand where I went wrong. Maybe if these plugs had a sack like the ones you see on the hitch of a big truck it would make it more clear at first glance. Haha

 

Yes that is correct! Look at the pic of the adapter and you will see which side is positive. Its so called plug and play kits like that one that make the average afraid of installing anything on their cars.

 

You can do this without removing many clips, but from experience the 1st time around remove as many clips as you feel necessary and comfortable enough to go in and work. The first time I swapped out my H11's it took me quite some time to figure it out, but the second time around when I swapped them out for a retrofit, it was a piece of cake. If you need any help just ask any of us

 

keep in mind that a standard plug connection will be waterproof. Simply inserting the metal clips into the factory harness will result in a connector that will be susceptible to water intrusion. In addition, the outer plug shell holds the connection together. By just inserting the metal clips into the factory harness, you are relying on friction to keep the connection together rather than a physical positive lock.

If you want, buy the H11 harnesses that Annino and I bought and ship them to me along with the HID interface wiring (not the whole kit) and I'll make you up a spiffy truly plug and play harness.

I had a whole post made out about this a few days ago explaining to you that yoru kit was not plug and play but I didn't want to seem like an a$$ because my ballast is different than yours and I coudln't truly be sure that the connector for the car harness from your ballast was the same as mine.

Anyways, here's a pic of the adapter I made up to interface with my car's plug. It's plug and play and is a watertight connection!



Here's a clarification picture I made the other day then decided not to post.



As far as the clips on the fender liner, I pulled the clips out to the top of the fender arch. That allowed me to bend the fender liner back behind the front suspension assembly out of the way. Provides mroe than enough room to work. I had also jacked my car up and removed the front wheels.

As a side note, I was impressed that jacking the car up from right behing the read sub-frame mount just behind the front wheels also raised the back-end up. That says something about the body stiffness!!!

 

Where did u get the male connectors u made up? I been to a few stores and can't find any!

 

This is what you want

http://www.amazon.com/Go-Model-Plug-.../dp/B002RZXWQA

You'll have to do a bit of soldering but it's really not difficult!

 

Great explanation umdpru! This really makes things clear to a novice like myself. The pics in your album are also very helpful.

 

I guess you have options,ship or buy. Either way we are all here to help you out.

 

OK guys. Looks like I just said screw it and cut the factory harness off and Used BUTT connectors to wire it up. Works like a charm! The lights are 100x better than regular halogen lamps!

 

Holy sh$$ batman you really wanted hids this weekend. I guess it really won't make diffrence for you but the next owner will be cursing you till the end of time. Nice job anyway.

 

This is the 1st kit I used.



Straight-up PNP.



I have a picture of them turned on, but I need to find it somewhere.

 

That's PNP! Same type kit here and two more on the way soon.