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I have searched high and low on this forum. Just upgraded from my 03 GLE , knew that car inside and out, but I don't have a damn clue on this one. Since there's no after-market anything for this car yet, I'm reaching out!!! How do I get the stereo apart to install the line converter, where to install it if I need to attach it to the head unit, or where is the amp so I can tap into it? I saw rear parcel shelf, but there isn't a damn thing there, either that or they hid the **** out of it.
Tommie70's write up on the Non-Bose Install was pretty awesome which I will be looking at that for future needs.
But I've seen many of these posts are for the '16 models and a lot of comparisons to the SR, SL, Plat, but nothing really on the S or SV. I've seen quite a bit on ripping out the system or how crappy it is, but nothing to show how to mod the current "basic" system. Anyone got a bone?
I am not sure if there's a big difference in 2016 vs 2017 and s vs sl when it comes to audio but you don't need to take apart the stereo.
I tapped into left and right rear speaker wires and connected line out converter. My LOC had rca and remote wire outlet.
Connected my ground wire wire to a bolt underneath the rear seat and pulled the power wire from the wheel well via where hood release linkage is going through.
Routed all my wires and connected the amp and subs.
I am not sure if there's a big difference in 2016 vs 2017 and s vs sl when it comes to audio but you don't need to take apart the stereo.
I tapped into left and right rear speaker wires and connected line out converter. My LOC had rca and remote wire outlet.
Connected my ground wire wire to a bolt underneath the rear seat and pulled the power wire from the wheel well via where hood release linkage is going through.
Routed all my wires and connected the amp and subs.
What qauge wire did you use? I am looking to run 0 gauge but have read other places where the biggest they were able to get through the hood release, was a 4 gauge and that was a feat in itself.
What qauge wire did you use? I am looking to run 0 gauge but have read other places where the biggest they were able to get through the hood release, was a 4 gauge and that was a feat in itself.
I actually found a hole in the firewall on the passenger side behind the glove box. It's pretty high up there but you can feel for a rubber grommet, pull it out and you've got a free open space.
From a great install thread by Tommie70: the hood release grommet on the driver's side allows 4ga wire.
I thought about using the leads for the rear deck speakers for my line-out converter, but had read several other threads about upgrading from the factory wire; especially since you'll have the interior of the car apart anyway. How did the factory wiring sound with your upgraded electronics? Do you wish you'd put in new wire?
I haven't noticed any real sounds changes (i.e. distortions, fuzzing, static, etc.) I will say however, not sure if this is a direct result of, but i practically have to turn the volume up pretty high to get any real results. The system itself still sounds pretty good with the LOC spliced through my rear speakers (which that was a huge pain in the A$$!! they don't give you squat for room).
I do have a 4 gauge running to my amp, don't bother with the hood release "trick" it creates hours of pain (figuratively and literally). If you reach up and to the right of the passenger foot well (behind the glove box) you will feel a rubber grommet, this is a very nice big hole that you can run just about everything you need through. I mean it's a good half-inch in diameter. it was actually harder to take the pic than to find the hole (that's what she said). If you run your had up the insulation, by the quarter panel, you will feel a slit in the insulation, feel up and slightly to the right and you will feel the rubber grommit. pull hard cause that is in there! Then i ran a wire hanger, with the wire tied to it, and pull through to the other side. Then ran it through the back end of the engine (windshield well) and around to the battery post. Cut off that little tab on the positive cover and fits like a glove! I mean you have plenty of wire if you bought a kit. There is zero place to ground the amp, so i bought a nut and bolt from Lowe's, used one of the premade holes in the trunk and chipped away the paint.
As far as switching out my wiring, not worried about it right now. It's a good temp until i can get aftermarket speakers and a diagram to get behind the stereo. I spoke with Nissan and you practically have to rip out the entire middle console just to get to the dashboard bolts to get to the head unit.
NoobSaibot, I know the hole you're talking about behind the glove box. What did you secure your power cable to when running it across the engine compartment to prevent it from moving around and laying against something hot? I didn't see anything convenient.
Can you post a photo of your connection to the positive battery terminal?
I actually found a hole in the firewall on the passenger side behind the glove box. It's pretty high up there but you can feel for a rubber grommet, pull it out and you've got a free open space.
This worked great! I don't know how you found this hold, but it was a life saver!!
I just ran my power wire this way. I actually pulled the glove box out, which is pretty easy, this gives you a straight shot to the hole. I pulled the grommet out, cut a hole in it fed the wire thru the grommet and then fed the wire thru then used put the grommet back in. This way there wont be any chaffing on the power cable.
I still have to buy the amp and sub. I am still up in the air as if I am going to put in a single 10" sub or 2 10's. Not looking for deep car rattling bass, just nice tight bass. Also debating whether to use a LCQ2 converter or just use the high inputs on the amp. I have the BOSE system in mine. I just need to find out if the the rear deck speakers get full range of bass and if the factory system turns down the bass when you turn up the volume.
This worked great! I don't know how you found this hold, but it was a life saver!!
I just ran my power wire this way. I actually pulled the glove box out, which is pretty easy, this gives you a straight shot to the hole. I pulled the grommet out, cut a hole in it fed the wire thru the grommet and then fed the wire thru then used put the grommet back in. This way there wont be any chaffing on the power cable.
I still have to buy the amp and sub. I am still up in the air as if I am going to put in a single 10" sub or 2 10's. Not looking for deep car rattling bass, just nice tight bass. Also debating whether to use a LCQ2 converter or just use the high inputs on the amp. I have the BOSE system in mine. I just need to find out if the the rear deck speakers get full range of bass and if the factory system turns down the bass when you turn up the volume.
Eh mate.. Do you recall how you removed the glove box? I need to run a wire through the firewall and your way sounds the easiest. Thanks!
Eh mate.. Do you recall how you removed the glove box? I need to run a wire through the firewall and your way sounds the easiest. Thanks!
It's not hard, there are something like six screws that hold it in. The only thing to watch out for is the connection for the glove box light. If I remember correctly, there are three screws along the bottom of the glove box, along the hinge. There are two more in recesses in the back of the glove box, near the top and you have to take the bracket the latch catches onto out. Then the glove box can be lifted/ slid out. While you're back there, change your cabin air filter.
Since this thread has been resurrected, here is some more information:
To get to the back of the factory head unit, you do, in fact have to take most of the center console apart. It's a big job. I was only able to do it because I had the factory service manual that gives step-by-step instructions. There is a post by Maxima.org member logicallysick that gives a link to the service manual. He may have posted in one of my threads. BE CAREFUL if you take the head unit out. There are two identical connectors back there and if you switch them when you reassemble everything you'll short a bunch of stuff out and have to have your car towed in for service. Expensive service.
Once you have your center console apart you may find you have room in there for a LOC, or impedance matcher or some other small component. There is actually quite a bit of room in there.
If anyone is interested, I also posted my install in a non-Bose Maxima. I think you can find it by searching for my username.
It's not hard, there are something like six screws that hold it in. The only thing to watch out for is the connection for the glove box light. If I remember correctly, there are three screws along the bottom of the glove box, along the hinge. There are two more in recesses in the back of the glove box, near the top and you have to take the bracket the latch catches onto out. Then the glove box can be lifted/ slid out. While you're back there, change your cabin air filter.
I just tried this last night but cant' figure out how to get it to come out.. I removed all the screws shown.. I'm guessing I'm missing the bracket the latch catches to? Any ideas? Thanks mate.
Take a look at the attached file. It's from the Factory Service Manual. Once you get all the fasteners out the glove box pulls out toward the passenger seat. Be gentle and don't forget about the wiring harness.
Take a look at the attached file. It's from the Factory Service Manual. Once you get all the fasteners out the glove box pulls out toward the passenger seat. Be gentle and don't forget about the wiring harness.
Didn't see this until just now.. So I looked at the pdf.. I have all the screws out that it talks about.. I'm guessing I'm missing the removal of the "Pawls".. WTF is a pawl? It shows there are four of them.. I just want my damn sub installed lol!
I don't know if you have to remove these screws, but I did (see the yellow circles), and the glove box came out.
Screws below the glove box, on the outside. Screws inside the glove box, at the top. Screws inside the glove box, back inside. Pull straight out, firmly. Be careful of the wiring for the glove box light.
Not to revive an old thread, but this one helped me out today. To the guy that said it's a nightmare to run the power wire through the hood latch grommet, you must have done things very wrong. It took not even an hour to get the wheel off, pop the fasteners off, remove the three screws, pull back the fender liner enough to get in there and pull the power wire. While the glove box method might be easier, you're going to require more power wire which will in turn draw more current. This will impact the efficiency of your amp, not to mention put unecessary strain on the power wire itself. The only way I would go the glove box route is if you used 1/0 AWG wire to make up for the resistance.
This worked great! I don't know how you found this hold, but it was a life saver!!
I just ran my power wire this way. I actually pulled the glove box out, which is pretty easy, this gives you a straight shot to the hole. I pulled the grommet out, cut a hole in it fed the wire thru the grommet and then fed the wire thru then used put the grommet back in. This way there wont be any chaffing on the power.
will 0 gauge wire fit through this space as well? Thanks
Just pull the drivers side tire and wheel liner and feed it through the large factory grommet that all of the other wires run through with a nylon puller . I ran 1/0 through through there and I run almost 4 thousand watts rms, although I don't know what your goals are for a subwoofer or if you want to upgrade your alternator also.
Garbage skar amp in those pics has been replaced with a Helix p6.
Morel tweeters in the a-pillars, audiofrog 6x9s in the doors, audiofrog gs25 mids in the dash. CSS SDX 12" subs on the taramps 3k. JS alternators 350a alt. No pictures really of all the speakers because it's all behind the factory panels except for the tweeters. And my a-pillars are just covered in black neoprene until I can find leather that matches the factory dash color, which turns out is a huge pain in the ***.
Just pull the drivers side tire and wheel liner and feed it through the large factory grommet that all of the other wires run through with a nylon puller . I ran 1/0 through through there and I run almost 4 thousand watts rms, although I don't know what your goals are for a subwoofer or if you want to upgrade your alternator also.
Sick setup, and thanks for that info. I haven’t installed sounds in 15 years and I’m not about to try now lol. The shop I’m going to get it installed seemed a little intimidated at running 0 gauge wire in a Maxima. I’m still waiting on my sub box, wiring kit and car to get shipped here lol (Hawaii takes long) but I have a 15” Kicker cvx (1000rms) with a 1200 cxa kicker amp. I used to run the 15” solo baric L7 but getting that sub out here to this island and a box is too pricey. Only thing is I will be running it off a LOC to the factory stereo so the sound quality may not be the best from what I’ve been reading but we’ll see how it sounds. I have a bass **** so I’ll be able to turn it down when I have the little ones riding with me lol
Thank ya, and any shop shouldn't be too intimidated by taking off a wheel and liner. They just might not be familiar with the car.
Sounds like with that much power you could get away with oversized ofc 4gauge if they keep the run as short as possible.
And the LOC thing.. coming from the stock head unit might sound kinda crappy depending on which LOC you get.... I wouldn't go with anything less than an audiocontrol lc2i that way you have bass restoration that will defeat the factory equalization when you turn up the volume.
I was thinking the exact same thing ( running 4g wire however went with a 0gauge kit. As for the LOC I have the basic kicker Loc off of amazon for like $30. I figured the bass **** would help me to control some of what you’re talking about. I’ve been out of the sounds game for awhile, some of this is new to me. Before it was just sub/amp/tweeters/deck.
02-06-2017, 06:50 PM
