K-Sport Coilovers Talk
I went on mini road trip to atlanta. well 2hour drive for me all the way to downtown atlanta. I had the chance to take my car and test out how the ksports were on the hwy. I was alil scared with hitting uneven pavement on the hwy but hell it was a great ride! I'm 3/4 soft front and rear and it felt pretty darn good. Even tho I've had problems with them they ride great. I'm 3inches dropped and i think the ksports ride like Tockio/H&R setup or maybe even better if I tune it them alil more. rock on ksports
Originally Posted by TJ_Max
Fellas, what's full stiff? Righty tighty? Turn it clockwise until they dont turn anymore? Is that full stiff or full soft? Thanks.
ok, i just installed my ksports and i love them, but i noticed that when i put them on the were slightly lower than my gcs w/ tok. blues right out of the box. I also noticed that there is a slight clicking noise when im driving but mainly when i am turn with the wheel almost locked. could this be my halfshafts making the noise. I am planing on raising it up a little, but my question is are the ksports dropped all the way when they come from the factory? how much lower can i go, also could i possibly damage anything by going too low? thanks
The concept is pretty simple really. If you play with the coilovers enough you can see how the collars and everything works.
Bottom mount spins on the threads making it longer or shorter. The skinnier collars lock against the bottom mount and the top one goes against the preload spring.
There is no "factory height" I don't think. It just comes threaded on there.
Bottom mount spins on the threads making it longer or shorter. The skinnier collars lock against the bottom mount and the top one goes against the preload spring.
There is no "factory height" I don't think. It just comes threaded on there.
Originally Posted by chillin014
The concept is pretty simple really. If you play with the coilovers enough you can see how the collars and everything works.
Bottom mount spins on the threads making it longer or shorter. The skinnier collars lock against the bottom mount and the top one goes against the preload spring.
There is no "factory height" I don't think. It just comes threaded on there.
Bottom mount spins on the threads making it longer or shorter. The skinnier collars lock against the bottom mount and the top one goes against the preload spring.
There is no "factory height" I don't think. It just comes threaded on there.
Originally Posted by Max4Spd
yea its kinda tricky at first....took me some time to figure it out.
when reading about these things before i bought them, i was extremely confused. but once i bought them and took a gander, it wasn't really all that complex.
ok, i know how they work, but my main question is that my car is making like a ticking noise doing about 40-50mph slightly on/off the gas. Could this be b/c of the height, could i damage something? please help asap thanks
Axles. My car is doing the same thing, and this is its third set of axles.... 
I've said it before, and I'll say it again: If your axles are anything less than PERFECT, you WILL notice it with a drop. I got cheap NAPA remanufactured axles, and now I'm definitely regretting it.
Raxles will definitely be seeing the next $260 I get once I recover from some recent expenditures.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again: If your axles are anything less than PERFECT, you WILL notice it with a drop. I got cheap NAPA remanufactured axles, and now I'm definitely regretting it.
Raxles will definitely be seeing the next $260 I get once I recover from some recent expenditures.
If it's any consolation to you, 99% of the time the only serious problem you'll get from your axles is noise. They won't wear down to the point that they break completely; they'll just make more and more noise over the months (or years) until your replace them. In the worst possible case, you might get a little bit extra torque steer or uneven braking, but unless you're big into performance driving, it most likely won't be a big deal.
Just replace them when the noise becomes unbearable.
Just replace them when the noise becomes unbearable.
Hey guys, am planning to get myself a FSTB and/or RSTB after my Ksport is settle, but i not sure which one to get? Does it matter which one to get, if its not then i'll go for cheap EBay, since am nearly broke.
It's debatable. If you're really particular about how your car handles, then shell out the extra and get at least the Otto Racing bar (other alternatives are Alutec and Stillen). Otherwise, get the cheapest you can find.
If you can't decide, just get the Otto Racing bar. Should be $50-ish.
If you can't decide, just get the Otto Racing bar. Should be $50-ish.
When I tightened my FSTB and RSTB with the car jacked in the air (a huge controversy surrounds this; most of the Org thinks this is pointless), I noticed a big difference from both the FSTB and RSTB. IMO it's an Org-perpetuated myth that the rear of the car doesn't really need a strut tower brace because the backseat/rear deck somehow provides enough structural support. This is all based on my limited experience so don't take my word for it.
They have the same general design as the Ksports, so theoretically they could have the same noise problems.
On the other hand, they're supposed to be a little better made... JICs have been getting some conflicting reviews so it's hard to tell.
But either way, if you install them right you won't have any problems.
On the other hand, they're supposed to be a little better made... JICs have been getting some conflicting reviews so it's hard to tell.
But either way, if you install them right you won't have any problems.
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,586
From: the OC & Silicon Valley
i was curious... how often (if at all) do you guys have to tighten stuff up? I joined the ksport club last week and started having noise issues from day one after a hundred miles of driving. after dealing with it for a week, i finally got my lazy *** to check out what was wrong yesterday... turns out it was just a loose spring perch on the front driver's side. now.. today i was doing some HARD driving w/o any noises... when i finally got home and made a 3 point turn to park against the curb, the noise came back! it's too late and cold to check on it now, but i'm pretty sure it's the same issue...after one day! now, i know it's best to tighten the perches w/ the shock uninstalled, but since it's already in there, what's the best way to tighten them? yesterday when i was tightening it up, i simply put all my weight into it and used both wrenches at the same time... but apparently this isn't enough. i'll try again in the morning but if it happens again i guess i'm gonna have to reapply some threadlock... i have zero issues w/ noise or looseness on the other ones though (they too have threadlock applied)
Hard driving doesn't put anywhere near as much stress on those collars as steering while you're at a stop, so it's not really surprising.
As for how to tighten them... have you been reading?
As for how to tighten them... have you been reading?
do you think anyone has got custom driveshafts to accomodate the driveshaft angle when the car is slammed. I had to raise my car back up b/c it seems like the cv's were angled to much. Does anyone have a fix other than raising the car up??? thanks
what kind of price are we talking? I mean if i got custom ones (shorter) which is why i think its making noise because have the a-arm flexing past 0 it pushes the driveshaft more into the cup for the diff
Originally Posted by i30dvr
what kind of price are we talking? I mean if i got custom ones (shorter) which is why i think its making noise because have the a-arm flexing past 0 it pushes the driveshaft more into the cup for the diff
As far as i know, nothing has been made to accomadate a severe drop. Anything over a 1.5" drop distorts the geometry. If something were to be made that would be awesome. I know to many people *cough* VIP maxima *cough*
it would be a relief from all their lowered problems. Me, i'd hate to raise it up...it just looks so good slammed
Originally Posted by Poowill
Raxles are $119 drivers side and $149 passenger side. Well worth it though if you are lowered and don't want to hassle with going through autozone axle's every 2 weeks. Check out their site, they just look like high quality stuff! Ofcourse, raxles hold up to your axle problems, but i don't think it solves the CV boot and other issues. but overall raxles are just built very tough.
As far as i know, nothing has been made to accomadate a severe drop. Anything over a 1.5" drop distorts the geometry. If something were to be made that would be awesome. I know to many people *cough* VIP maxima *cough*
it would be a relief from all their lowered problems. Me, i'd hate to raise it up...it just looks so good slammed 
As far as i know, nothing has been made to accomadate a severe drop. Anything over a 1.5" drop distorts the geometry. If something were to be made that would be awesome. I know to many people *cough* VIP maxima *cough*
it would be a relief from all their lowered problems. Me, i'd hate to raise it up...it just looks so good slammed 
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i just found pics of rockin stock rims on k sports. i have to admit that proper offset can make your car look really low or high. in these pics my car looks like those two cars in NYC posted a few pages back.


boy was it slammed back then. im talkin about less than 2" ground clearnace. the 19's definetly raised it up by two inches. scrary stuff.


boy was it slammed back then. im talkin about less than 2" ground clearnace. the 19's definetly raised it up by two inches. scrary stuff.
Originally Posted by VIP Maxima
i just found pics of rockin stock rims on k sports. i have to admit that proper offset can make your car look really low or high. in these pics my car looks like those two cars in NYC posted a few pages back.


boy was it slammed back then. im talkin about less than 2" ground clearnace. the 19's definetly raised it up by two inches. scrary stuff.


boy was it slammed back then. im talkin about less than 2" ground clearnace. the 19's definetly raised it up by two inches. scrary stuff.
check mine out, the back is lower than the front am thinking of raising it up cuz it keep scratching my stock exhaust (piece of crap aniway), suggestion shoudl i raise it up an 1" or 2" for later one for my ionic side skirts and 2 rear piece.


That's a very clean car, nice paint, but it looks way too low and you need some rims with a lower offset. I don't like the tucked under look. I think the back should be equal or higher than the front, otherwise it looks like you've got all your possessions in the trunk.
Very clean car, i still wish i coulda found a black one. It looks awesome!
I like the drop but i agree with Vquick, a little lower offset would help. You could get some spacers to fill up the front a little more. I have 37mm offset on mine and it fills out about perfect:

But nice max, i actually kinda like the primed front bumper and lip
I like the drop but i agree with Vquick, a little lower offset would help. You could get some spacers to fill up the front a little more. I have 37mm offset on mine and it fills out about perfect:

But nice max, i actually kinda like the primed front bumper and lip
Originally Posted by Poowill
Very clean car, i still wish i coulda found a black one. It looks awesome!
I like the drop but i agree with Vquick, a little lower offset would help. You could get some spacers to fill up the front a little more. I have 37mm offset on mine and it fills out about perfect:

But nice max, i actually kinda like the primed front bumper and lip

But nice max, i actually kinda like the primed front bumper and lip



