-1 degree here.

 

i know the shop will adjust camber. all i am asking is how much negative camber they have. and the peopel that are dropped that the tires are tucked they would have more negative camber because if they would have it set to factory sepcs the tires would rub the fenders.

 

hows the tire wear with -1 degree camber?

 

-1° camber should not be a problem, especially if you drive the corners with any enthusiasm whatsoever. In fact, the harder you typically corner, the more negative you should be setting the static camber in order to reduce wear (primarily on the outer shoulder areas). If you more frequently engage in very hard braking than in hard cornering, you'll probably want a slightly less negative camber setting.

Just for comparison, the factory shop manual for my 626 (which has struts all around) lists up to -1.6° up front and up to -1.15° in the rear as being factory-acceptable. Since I doubt that there's all that much difference between different factory struts, control arms, and bushings, -1° should be fine for the front of just about any strut-suspended car. FWIW, i'm closer to -1.8° on the front of that car but have no uneven tire wear problems to report.


Norm

 

what camber arre you running on the maxima though?

 

my camber is -0.5*

 

Oh your asking how much negative camber can we adjust to? I'm not sure exactly. If I had to guess I would say you could push the plate all the way in (towards the engine) and probably get about -3* Just a guess.

For those tucking they would be running more negative camber to point the tire inwards to keep it from getting cut up on the fender. Those people are probably very close to the edge of the factory boundaries.

 

well i spent a good couple of hours today with the k-sports and i think i am satisfied with the way the front is. i still have to put the back in and get an allingment because my toe is out and the tires rub the fender wells even though there is some negative camber.

 

what Norm said.

My tires are wearing evenly. I'm not exactly an easy driver, though...

 

anyone selling there k-sports??????

 

try the group deal forums...

 

i'd rather pay for a used set to get a feel with out paying retail price

 

Hi',

This is my first post, I've been a avid Nissan user for many years. I do own a 240sx and while looking for info about the ksports, found this interesting thread. This is the best I've seen about ksports. I have a fairly new set on my car now. The right front started clunking yesterday, I found that the bottom plate came loose, making the spring chew the isolator and bounce around a bit. I readjusted everything and it seems to be working now. Something else, the pillow ball is rusty....yes rust...

I think this keeps the coil from turning when is supposed to and the bottom plates work his way loose due to this. Is it safe to lightly lube the ball to keep it from rusting?? I also have a small amount of oil around the rubber protector cup on my left front coil...Is this a leak??? do I need to send this in for replacement??? The coils warranty will be over in Dec this year....

thanks and keep the great work, I will be reffering a lot of ksport users to this link......

 

Yes, yes, and yes.

 

what torque do you guys tighten the upper nut where the camber plates are? or do you tighten it with an impact gun? i think the noises that most people have are comming from the pillow ball area.

 

according to ksports, it's 40lbs...

 

Quick question. Am I the only one that has had this happen? When installing the k-sports on the rear the whole assembly comes really close to the rear beam. Actually it hits it. This has happend both on a 5th gen and my 4th gen.
I have some pictures to show what I mean exactly.





These pictures you can see where the assembly was hitting.

 

Now these two pictures show the rear k-sports installed and tha part that was hitting had to to be grinded down so there would be some cleareance.





Now this was on both sides meaning the rear right and the rear left.

 

hmm, how weird...i never had this problem...seems to be sufficent clearance when i install the lower bolt

 

Well the thing is when maxs had these installed on his 5th gen he had this problem adn then when we were installing them today on my 4th gen the same thing hapend. So maxs took a grinder and fixed the problem. I am just posting this because it could be a source of noises.

 

has anyone tried 7/5 spring rates? i believe this is the lowest spring rate you can go, without ksports charging u extra for re calibrating the dampers...how is the ride quality with 7/5 springs?

I'm interested in hearing soft, medium, and full stiff settings...and what kinda tires you running?

 

i've been browsing some of the post, but i haven't found anything about changing the Alignment/Camber Kits . is it not needed?.. also i know when lowering your angle for the tires ends up changing and the sidewalls tend to get alot more wear, is this relevant to k sports?

 

Hasn't happened to me either...

 

Ksport apparently doesn't have a 5 kg/mm spring available, but people have tried 8/6 with apparently very good results.

 

Not sure what you mean. If you're asking whether these come with camber plates, then yes they do, and there have definitely been a few posts on how to use them.

Couple of vocabulary issues here, but I understand the question. You're asking whether installing Ksport coilovers will change your camber and cause faster-than-normal wear on the inside or outside edges of your tires. The answer is yes, although how bad it is depends on how much you lower your car: The more you lower it, the worse the camber will get.

 

how about 7/6? is that a good setup for daily & semi-hard driving?

 

I'm sure it would be.

That's the setup that Tein uses on their Basic coilovers, so it can't be that bad. It's not necessarily a perfect comparison since there's more to a spring's behavior than the overall spring rate, but that should give you some idea.

There's even a chance that 7/6 springs would give you less understeer than 9/6, even though it might compromise grip and response in some cases.

 

sounds good...and if i go with this setup, i get no additional charge for re calibrating the dampers right? i could have sworn...if it's over 2kg, then re calibrating is necessary...

 

Exactly. A re-valve would be nice, but it's not necessary.

 

has anyone tried anything stiffer like 10/8 or 10/7?

 

now are you guys jsut saying it hasnt happend to you or its just that you havent looked?

 

hasn't happened to me

 

Hasn't happened to me.

 

I don't think anyone's been brave enough...

If you want to stiffen things up, IMO, it'd be best to start in the rear.

 

I hate to make a stink, but beware. I have been trying to get ahold of K-Sport to have some warranty work done for about 6 weeks with no response. They don't answer the phone or respond to e-mails, and I feel like they are trying to cheat me. I wrote like 3 e-mails over a 3 week period and have tried to call them numerous times. I spoke to a rep. at Autoline Industries who does the repairs. He told me I need a return # and that I should e-mail to info@ksportusa.com. I did, and no response. What can I do to get this resolved. Doodfood, is there a "special" way to get ahold of them, even though it shouldn't be this difficult? Thanks.

 

Try AIM. they're on almost every day. The screenname is ksportsupport

 

yup, that's actually the best way to reach them. they get swamped with massive emails that you probably don't get to go through all of them. AIM is the best way to go.

 

on the AIM suggestion.

That company needs more staff...

 

they could use more staff but that staff's pay check is gonna be coming out of all you guys' pocket (higher cost of business, higher the price for customer)

 

Pretty weak that all the contact methods that they provide are useless. Am I supposed to hang out on the computer all day waiting for them to come online? This company sux.