915Max

iTrader: (6)

I just finished wiring up the VAFC II to my 4th gen. This is how I have done it.
Red Wire-- to the power source of the ECU
Red/Black-- to the power source of ECU (1cm away from red wire)
Green Wire-- To the Tachometer
Yellow wire-- connected to cut MAF wire(closest to the ECU)
White wire-- connected to MAF wire (to the other end of cut wire)
Purple wire-- Knock sensor
Grey wire-- Throttle position sensor
Pink wire-- to positive terminal of VIAS solenoid
Brown wire-- to ground of the ECU
Black wire-- to ground wire of the ECU (1cm away and behind of bronw wire)

What I am left with:
Orange wire-- ???? Apexi shows it is for: VTC
Blue wire-- ???? Apexi shows it is for: VTM signal
Light Blue-- ????? Apexi shows it is for: TDC

Which one am I supposed to use as ground for the VIAS? And are the other ones left disconnected???

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

subscribing for later info

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...68&postcount=2


When(RPM) do you plan on activating the 2k2 VIAS?

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

the ground wire coming from the plug thats plugged into your VIAS can be grounded at any ground point, doesn't have to be hooked up to the VAFC.

so i hooked up my VAFC2 as well, but i didn't cut my MAF wire yet, so those 2 wires i have not hooked up. how hard is it to tune? b/c right now my vafc is acting as a fancy rpm switch for my 00vi, and when i get time to mess w/ tuning i'll cut the MAF wire and hook it up to the vafc.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

If you have a wb o2 sensor w/datalogging capability, tuning is very easy.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Sorry to say but the V-AFCII WILL NOT control the 2k2 VIAS properly. You need something that will stay ON until a certain RPM then turn OFF after that because the 2k2 VIAS is open by default and closes when vacuum is applied. That's the exact opposite of the V-AFCII's capabilities.


This should be in the sticky.

915Max

iTrader: (6)

Well im not sure if theres a difference between the 2k2 VIAS and the 2K4 VIAS. I have the 2k4 engine/VIAS set-up.

Okay, so after going over the wiring diagram through Apexi, I did find the reason on why not to connect the purple to the knock sensor. So the knock sensor goes untouched?? And what about the other wires?? Do those stay disconnected??

This is my first time installing and messing with an air/fuel controller so I hope evreything goes well. I have been tight on money so getting a WB O2 sensor is out of the question.. at least for a couple of months. I plan on just taking it to a local shop and getting it tuned, then leaving it alone, and when I get the WB O2, I can start messing with it.

Are there any typical set-ups, or numbers anyone can recommend for me to try to tune the car (safely) for the time being. I need to go back in and make sure it is connected and functioning correctly before taking it to the shop.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

2k2 VI refers to 02-07...

915Max

iTrader: (6)

Oh..

I was thinking about what you mentioned regarding the VAFC II not controlling the VIAS properly. I see reason in that because the V-tec kicks in as soon as it hits a specific rpm and continues to function until it drops back under that rpm range.... so this means in addition to the AFC, I would need to keep my rpm switch... Hmm.... okay.

I got the set-ups down... 1 in 1 out, 6 cylinder, up/right arrow v-tec 1<-- which this wouldnt mean anything anymore...

Now I have my points as follows:
Lvt: 2000,2200,2400,2600,2800,3000,3200,3400,3600,3800, 4000,4100
Hvt: 4200,4400,4600,4800,5000,5200,5400,5600,5800,6000, 6200,6400

Would this be okay?
Now i've been reading about how to set the Narrow throttle and high throttle... and it seesm to me the ideal place would be to set it at 40% on wide throttle but where would I poisition it for the narrow?? Or am I even doing it right?
I wish you guys were local so I can get some help.. There's no luck for me in this Honda infested city.

915Max

iTrader: (6)

I still havent made any adjustments on the air/fuel side, but I did disconnect the vtec wire and connected my msd rpm switch... The car feels a whole lot better. I guess nismolgy, you were correct, unless I didnt have the VIAS hooked up properly to the Vt-ec controller. Before I did the change, the car was very torquie but lacked a whole lotta top end.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

ECU takes care of part throttle for you, so just leave that alone. It's the WOT map that needs conditioning.

915Max

iTrader: (6)

I know we both have differnet set-ups, but how do you have your correction points set?? I dont have a WB so I dont know how to put it... I just want to mess with it and see how it would feel. I'm taking it to a shop this weekend to get it tuned. Can you help a brotha out NmexMax?

Hey, did you get my pm regarding the shootout in Deming??

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Well, right now, I'm pulling back ( -4 --> - 7%) @ 800-1400, since I have a slightly rich idle problem/lo throttle(12.8-13.0) issue with the larger MAF. I think this is actually caused by me not having my primary O2 sensors in. I also reset my base fuel schedule when installing the new MAF, so that too may have had an affect. It would work fine before (maintain 14.7:1 even w/o primaries in), but now with the larger MAF it went a touch rich. But I'm sure getting my primaries back in the mix will help out. I wont know for sure until I reconnect my primaries and then check AF.


Also, I have a full tune TS ECU, so my WOT readings are actually pretty good. Raw street tune looks to be - 3%--> - 5% from 4k+.

Smartest thing to do is to stay away from blind tuning. Wait for the weekend so they can do it at that shop.

I did get your message..... I'm going to try and make it

915Max

iTrader: (6)

Yeah.. your right. I guess I have to be impatient... cuz it may cost me my engine... oh well.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

I'm am EXACTLY at the SAME stage of mods (minus the VQ35 swap) has yours actually. I wired it yesterday and left the knock sensor- the purple one- untouched because theres no knock reading in the vafc2 (S-afc2 has it) leave it like that. The pink one is the one that will control it PARTIALLY like nismology wrote (he's right because we tried the single stage changeover point setup in his car and lost a lot of top-end due to the bad VI switchover point and single stage, we learned through that) the ground is wires directly to the negative post of the battery. so one wire goes to the pink wire on the Vafc2 and the other one to the negative terminal. I works but not has intended from nissan with the dual activation points. I was also looking for the good RPM setting because when my car is hot, I reads rpm well but when i lift the gas, it goes to 22.. rpm when it decelerates, the needle in the tach goes down... what the heck!! Had the throttle fully closed and fully opened to get the tps learning curve ,arrow pointing in the 2 oclock position and cylinder number to 6!! anybody could help on that?? I was also looking for some good corrections factors to get a rough tune out of it. Somebody could share??? I gonna follow this thread to get help and t help others also!!!

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

EXACTLY what happened to us last sunday at the track opening, my buddy was running alongside me the whole 1320 at 15.2(sucks because he used to run 14.2 at 101+ the whole day) we cut the wires to get it set by default on short runners and he got the 14.2 back...

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=NmexMAX]Well, right now, I'm pulling back ( -4 --> - 7%) @ 800-1400, since I have a slightly rich idle problem/lo throttle(12.8-13.0) issue with the larger MAF. I think this is actually caused by me not having my primary O2 sensors in. I also reset my base fuel schedule when installing the new MAF, so that too may have had an affect. It would work fine before (maintain 14.7:1 even w/o primaries in), but now with the larger MAF it went a touch rich. But I'm sure getting my primaries back in the mix will help out. I wont know for sure until I reconnect my primaries and then check AF.


Also, I have a full tune TS ECU, so my WOT readings are actually pretty good. Raw street tune looks to be - 3%--> - 5% from 4k+.

Smartest thing to do is to stay away from blind tuning. Wait for the weekend so they can do it at that shop.


Great, I see you help others now, good thing since you have a lot of knowledge. I also have that same kind of hurry to get results. On my last S-afc2 I had, I tunned it up to -12% at 5000 rpm with super good results (94 octane and a good eye on knock readings) It ran well. I switched it for a V-afc2 this weekend but not tunned it yet. I have problem with my rpm readings, it goes up when i lift the gas!!! 1 in 1 out arow at 2 oclock 6 cyl v-tec type 1... Could you help a bit?? I have no idea but the wires are all connected well.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I thought I was rich like every other stock 5.5g, but turns out TS made me AF curve pretty nice, so those down low corrections are great for my set-up.

i DO have a wb monitoring afr 24/7. that's the safe way to do it.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

should be my next logical mod step to get it on the spot so...

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

but any ideas with my rpm problem?? when it goes up its about as close as it can gets but when i lift, it goes up... stock 97 fed ECU

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Might be a wiring problem. RPM signal is a frequency (hz) and is sent to the VAFC, the VAFC then deciphers it as RPM depending on how many cyls you chose when setting it up.

With that said, it may be a wiring problem/issue.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

all wires has been soldered and recover with electric tape. Is it possible that the computer puts himself in a learning curve of the tach signal? Gonna check the wires anyway because there is nothing to do besides that.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

one thing i forgot, there are two red wires from the v-afc2 and only 1 from the ecu. We connected the two vafc red wires 1 inch apart on the red power wire from the ecu, is it correct to do so? like the brown and black???

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

The SAFC is different. Nope, that's not the way it goes on the SAFc, but maybe for the VAFC it does, I have no clue.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

so far, no problem but rpm difference needle at 700-800rpm V-afc2 at 2200... did a lot of researches in the stickies but nothing that lighted me up... there is certainly someone that have a v-afc2 in a vq30de 4th gen around!!! Gonna go try do a run and gonna come back a bit latter.

jmeister

iTrader: (12)

Curious... Is you're VI activating with the vtec set to 1 on the VAFC?
Not sure what to tell you about the tach issue, I know there is some discrepancy usually but not that much.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

I doubled the red power wires when installed. I phoned a dyno shop that are used to work with V-afc's and he told me I had a 'loop' in the reading circuit or something like that that's why it read doubles because the infos are circulated in loop... SOB!! still trying to figure out what it may be!! Today, the rpm's completely went to 0 on a stop light...WTF!! tach signal is soldered and taped with electric tape. The idle rpm's are doubled and as I rev past 1500rpm all is fine correct rpm's showing. I'm going crazy and gonna sell the thing to get me a EB for god's sake!! If not corrected in 2 weeks, FOR SALE!!!

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

Cardana24, please join the researches!! please

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I will try to monitor mine today and tomorrow. Mine is in the glove box so I am not looking at it while I am driving. I will try to see if my RPM's are reading correct. As I told you in PM I also have the two red wires hooked up to the power pin on the ecu. I'll report back when I have info.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

My RPM and throttle reading are also screwed up. I need to go read my manual. the only thing that I can think that I may have done wrong is hook up the two red wires to the ECU when it should have been only one...I am not sure but I am going to go read my manual. My RPM is showing to be around 1500 when the tach shows the car idling at 800. And my throttle does not start showing a reading until I have pushed the gasy pedal about 20% in, then the throttle reading starts at 1%. If I figure anything out I will report back.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I read through the manual and the the initial set up again and made sure everything was set right. My engine size was set to 4cyl so I changed it to 6cyl. After I double checked everything else I left the throttle closed for at least 10 seconds and then wide open for at least ten seconds (ignition on, but engine not running). After i did this I turned the ignition off...waited a few seconds and started the car back up. I went to the monitor function and now it appears to be reading correctly. RPM and throttle position appear to be correct now.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

same over here, cut the second red wire and nothing changed. My tps% is now o.k thought... I checked all the solderings on the green(tps), grey and reds. all seems fine to me actually. gonna see the nissan guru over here in delson. so freaked out that i will need to pay for getting it fixed!!! but have you remarked after 1500rpm and part throttle, all the readings are dead on, in my case... so only idle speed is doubled(I don't mind if not displayed on the v-afc. Gonna simply show my corrections factor and tps now in 2 channels. I still have the rpm needle to look at. I put mine on the steering column behing the steering wheel. Super cool in the dark and no need to leave sight on the road.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

Go through the set up again, and make sure you car learns the throttle. Its on page 13 of my manual. You have to leave the throttle closed for at least 10 seconds, after that you push the throttle to WOT for at least 10 seconds then turn the car off. Check that and see if that helps anything.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

ok so, I initialize the computer, get the car hot to get the ecu to learn the hot idle speed. 1 in 1 out 1 cyl 2 oclock arrow v-tec type 1. get the 1 channel thr% and wait 10 seconds at 0%. floor it for min. 10 seconds at 100% thr. Cut the ignition after... Gonna try to do the exact thing and gonna post tomorrow. I snowed a lot over here today. I had an appointment with the dyno guy but there's 5 inches of white **** on the ground.f..ck!!
I'm gonna print the manual on the apex-i site. I used to hooked the damn thing in 30 minutes. I made 6 and this is by far the most problematic install I had.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

waddaya think of the procedures. Is it ok with what you made or...

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Good luck with that.

As of late, they do not have SAFC or VAFC manuals on there.

I had to DL and decipher a Japanese version of my SAFC, until I found the damn thing in a huge stack of papers at home.

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

just got it printed in technical documentation on the official site took 4 minutes... gone to page 13 like cardana24 told me gonna get it done by the book right now. gonna post tomorrow, my results.