It is something I wanted to do for a long time, but originally I was thinking of buying and older american muscle car, like a chevelle 66, GTO or something like that. After thinking and searching for the right car I figured why should I get and old rusted car to start with and foremost take like 5-7 years to build it when I have the max in a fairly good condition. I really have to get going if I want this car on the road by the spring, I'm working on the car every evening and one of the 2 days on the week-end, I still have to take car of that lovely family if I dont want ending up sleeping in the garage. Lol

Thing are going well at this point, we will finish to paint all the parts this coming saturday. The subframe connector, engine support and hopefully the direction & suspension will be install this week-end or during the week evening next week.

The puzzle is to remember where all the bracket goes, I mean I have a basket full of bracket that we sandblasted since they where all rusted, we are painting some of them, some are getting chromed.

 

wow the amount of labor that you are putting into this car is simply incredible. Best of luck for re-assembly! Coming along great so far

 

It's almost like overhauling but a guy alone and a friend that help on week-end.Lol

 

Does anyone know what is the part # for that part/sensor:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0461.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0462.jpg

This morning I went to the dealer had the part with me and they couldn't find it, the guy didn't had a clue and could not help. I told them it is attach to the hood latch but they couldn' t find it anyway. I'm going to ask Dave B first thing in the morning but if you know what I'm talking about please let me know, as usual it will be greatly appreciate

AA

 

Thanks to Dave B. This part is called an Air Bag sensor, cost is 220$ US so I'm going to try to find one at the local junkyard cuz 220$ is a little steep to my taste.

BTW D ave B told me that all the connectors that are yellow are related to Air Bags.

 

I have been reading through the posts on VQ30 heads on a 35 block. issues reguarding tuning and less air flow on the 3L seems to be the main concern. VVT also seems to not be retained. I was hoping for some oppinions and factual advice, because I just bought 3.0 heads last weekend at a junkyard for 75 bucks. some of this reading is making me worried it is a waste of my time.

currently, my friend and I are porting the lower plenum so I can use the 02 VI. since the motor is out right now, I thought I should take opportunity to experiement....


current set up,
02 spec-vq35
I/H/3inch ex
AEM EMS(vqswap.com)
247whp
226wtq(w/o VVT, pwm doesn't work very good)
http://myspecv.com/f/t164058.html

I want to use stock 3.5 cams(I plan to get the conversion kit), JWT springs, P'n'P, ARP studs, Z33 gasket, stock 3.5 bottom, 350z manifold(possibly). rev limit 7K(budget build as you can see)

is it possible to use 3.5 valves, if I re-seat and machine valve guides(would it be worth it? are dimensions different)?
I do have the FSM on file, but seeing it is huge, I am biding my time until I have to open once I start the project.
I have researched a bit on it, but seeing tuning as not an issue with my set up, and increasing the flow through head work, I don't see how I could go wrong with this setup. 11.5:1 CR with good bottom end TQ should put me at 270whp granted I have all the CFM ratios right.

hopefully no one will ***** me out for posting a none maxima car, I just wouldn't know where to get a better oppinion or advice. the Z guys don't do crazy **** like this, only hard corps FWD VQ enthuisiast.. thanks in advance....

James

 

I'm not sure why you would want to use VQ30DEK heads on a VQ35 knowing that VQ35 heads flow better.

You can have the valve seats bore by 1-mm and still retain the stock valve, but you will need to have the valve regrind to match the new seat angle. You will have to check the valve to piston clearance since when you bore the valve seat buy 1-mm the valve clearance with the piston might be affected since the valve is pushed inside the heads not by much but still you want to make sure it will not hit the piston otherwise you know what will happend.

There is an advantage doing so, since a machine shop will also check the valve to bucket/cam clearance. On my VQ30DEK heads they where able to adjust/grind it and get the perfect clearance.

If you replace the valve guide for Manganese/bronze one it will cost you around 350$ including the valve guide and the installation, but if you are not boosted and your engine is in good condition you dont need to replace the stock valve guide.

AA

 

using 3.5 valves in 3.0 heads is not exactly possible, without major modification and alot of time and money, explained in this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...ves-3-0-a.html

I wouldn't honestly do the 3.0 heads on a 3.5 as there are no real advantage to it besides the raised compression and if you are going that far to have the heads off the engine I would suggest doing at least some form of cams (ebay cams have proven to be a good set).

 

Maybe I didn't get it right the first time... When I was referring to the valve jobs all I was saying is you can use the VQ35 valve on VQ 35 heads and have the valve seats bored by 1 mm and still retain the stock valve with the proper grind sorry to not have specified wich part on wich engine.

 

thanks for the info man. I realize that they do not flow very good, obviously not needed to with a smaller displacment, lower compression motor. I am going to change that, and the 11.5:0 is what I am after. I really don't want to mess with the valve guides. how would piston to valve clearence be an issue if the 35 valves are even shorter? the valves I pulled out of this head are really worn, and it was in the weather, so there was rust on some of them.
I realize the dome or chamber on the head is much shallower(valves will be closer to piston), but if I can get it to flow like a 35, that CR would be great...if machine work is not to much of an issue and I can get a hookup, maybe if I fly cut the stock pistons?....
can I use the stock seats with 35's valves?? what I don't understand if flow is good and compression is high, but streetable, how would I end up with less power?

Thanks Davevq, that link really helped, a lot of links on here don't work, such as the "none searches" thread.
I was reading through that thread, I guess my knowledge of valve lash and VQ heads in general is not so good. I am gonna have to get my hands dirty to completely understand how much of a b--ch it would be.... the loss in bottem end and ofcourse greater lift on the cam lobs(piston to valve clearence) I figured wouldn't be worth the trouble for that little bit of gain up top....



scheduled to pick up a vq35 with a broken timing cover(2000 miles for 200$!!!) febuary 6th, project should be under way on the weekends to follow, and once my post count gets up I will post a progress thread....

thanks for all the advice, I am going to push through and see what I can pull off....
here are some pics of my buddy grinding away on the lower plenum, and taking the heads off.





and some pics of getting the NASTY heads off a broken, water-logged vq30

 

ok , just got that, so interchanging valves(35 valve in 30 head) is not going to work on a budget build??? only 35-35, yes?

 

I cant really speak for VQ35 since I dont have one but I believe the valve are different size. As for the rusted valve if they are not bent you just may want to buff them with a cotton wheel and black emery and see if the rust went true the coating if not your good to go and can use those for the 1mm bore.

I was reading back one of the answer I gave you about the valve to piston clearance, I was wrong it's not going to affect the valve to piston clearance since your keeping the VQ35 cam. I guess my mind was spoiled since I have a VQ30DEK with VQ35 cam wich are different that the stock VQ30DEK cam, on my set-up they had to adjust the length of the valve and re-grind the tip to avoid hitting the piston.

 

Those heads are dirty but once cleaned no one would tell.

 

wow those heads are nasty...

I was going to try and use the 3.5 IM on the 3.0 but determined it was kind of a waste cause of the amount of porting and risking scraping a set of heads.







If I were you since your on a budget.

Since you want high compression.
-Main/rod bearings
-ARP Rod bolts
-Set of 11.5:1 pistons (HR pistons can be had cheap)
-keep 3.5 stock
-do the porting
-ebay cams with the HR Springs and double shim
-fidanze flywheel and nice clutch

about ~$1,500 right there

Messing with the valves and oversizing on the VQs can be done but its risky...cause you face alot of other issues (as you've already mentioned).

Personally, I wanted to do my 3.0 engine like doublea's just with high compression no boost. I was about to make my own set of custom headers, which were basically long tube headers (can be done just need to route it right), collect the headers into 3" and run dual 2.5" after that (yes its okay for high compression NA).

Another guy I know who did the a 3.5 swap into a sentra b13 (1997??), did a standalone AEM ecu. He dynoed at 260whp with just headers and intake on a relatively stock 3.5. So thats another option IMO a standalone a good way to unlock alot of the VQs power.

Lastly don't forget the block off plate for the IM and remove the VIAS that will give you some nice power

 

wow, your lower plenum port match looks great! suprised you didn't use it.

I was thinking about just using HR springs. I think I read on here somewhere that they were only 4.70$. that is a lot less that the JWT's. and its not like I am reving over 7000 anyways.

1500 is a little above m y budget.
as of now I am not trying to break 800 total.
250.00 for VQ35,
120.00 HR springs
120.00 Z33 haed gaskets
100.00 head studs(may just uses stock, here they are just as good as ARP)
50.00 Z33 IM
cams are great, but I can really appriciate the bottom and, and in truth I rode in my buddies VQ sentra and wasn't impressed with the JWT S1's, so...

I am going to take doublea's advice and see if I can get away with 1mm bigger on the valve ports, leaving the stock vq30 seats and valves. if it turns out the valves are too worn, I will just have to do some trial and error, see if I can get those 35's to work.
another question, the cam conversion kit.... does it just change the timing setup so you can run W/O VVT? if that is the case and I can use the 35 VVT setup, then I would rather keep it.

I spoke with the guy with the b14, almost exact setup as mine. he has the car for sale now.10k i think. 255whp... very impressive car(lot lighter than mine).
thanks again for the suggestions,


James

 

IMO heads that don't line up with combustion chamber dimensions doesn't sit well with me but thats my opinion.

I have not heard of any great success stories with the hybrid 3.5/3.0 engines...I would personally stick with the 3.5 heads if your not gonna do cams on the 3.0 heads the restricted flow vs the 3.5 heads will not net you any gains besides raising compression which is good for maybe 5-10whp if that, besides oversizing the valves on a 3.0 head and porting it to match a 3.5 head will just make the 3.0 head a 3.5 head, as the 3.0 heads valves are 1mm smaller then the 3.5 heads.

 

forgot to mention...there are water jackets everywhere on the VQ30 heads...port matching the 3.5 LIM to a 3.0 head is gonna be tricky, one slip and the heads are scrap metal. I didn't like how the fuel injector holes were way too far off on the port...

Fitting the 350z IM to the 3.0 would be sweet...but you can't honestly beat the 00vi as it has the best flow. I've investigated every possibility for IM setups from other cars and such. The only way its gonna get better flow is if you make custom.

 

Well said Dave VQ... That's why I've decided to port the 3.0 UIM, basically I have bored each runner to the maximum possible, I probably gain a 1/4 -3/8 of an inche on the diameter of each port.

 

The painting of all the brackets an miscellaneous parts is coming close to the end, I have 1 or 2 evening of work to finish the rest of the parts and then it's going to be re-assembling fun time. We're going to start either this coming week-end or the next one, if we dont get into major focked up, the car should be ready by may. I'll post some pics tonight of the parts that have been getting painted yesterday, the LCA'S really came out very nice with the Silver Star paint, I'll let you be the judge.

Have a good one every body.

AA

 

wow....

 

Sorry for not posting the pics, my daughter has left with my digi cam so I'll take the shots during the week-end. The LCA'S has turn out very nicely with the 6 coats of clear, talking about being crazy... Lol

We have finally painted 95% of all the part that goes in the engine bays, now I just need to put the clear coats on the last few parts I've painted and we're good to start assembling the biatch.

 

Here see the links for more pics of the work in progress. I'm starting to re-assemble the car tomorrow. I have painted over 60 parts in the engine bay but those are only a few of since many are in a sealed boxed waiting to be installed.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0477.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0478.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0479.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0480.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0481.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0482.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0483.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0484.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0485.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0486.jpg

 

Nice work. Glad to see you are making progress

 

Sandblasting and painting the engine bays parts took many evening and week-end of works, but now we are good to put the car together, thing should advance much faster now, it's just about time. Wait to see more pics tomorrow.

 

Hey guys, here the pics of the subframe assembly with the R & P.

The center beam is not tighten yet, I need to order new ES subframe bushing before final torquing, that's going to give me some time to clean up the last few parts / bolts & nuts / brackets I need to move on with the assembly.

When I removed the engine I had to cut some of the brake & gas lines as you will see in the pics. I was just unable to unscrew the fitting but my friend has a repair kit so we will try that otherwise I'm going to replace the entire line.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0497.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0496.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0495.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0494.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0493.jpg

Miscellaneous freshly painted parts.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0487.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0488.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0489.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0490.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0491.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0492.jpg

 

I just got the Arias 9.25:1 piston today, so that mean i should get my engine back within 2 weeks now. The car assembling is going very well, today I ordered a new SE front sway bar with the 2 brackets, strut nuts, strut isolator and other stuff as well, so if I can get all my parts tomorrow the front suspension with the JIC VIP will be done this week-end.







P.S: The C/R on the piston are 9.25:1 not 9.3:1

 

So beautiful!

 

The skirts on those pistons look nice and light...easy revving for you my friend

 

I drop the piston at the shop about 30 minutes ago, the technician was pointing out the fact that Arias also bundle some high quality ring saying that I got a zero leak ring, he kind of explained but it was the first time I heard about that. Today I got some more parts so I should be able to assemble the front & rear suspension beside the front sway bar that i will only get in a week or so. I'll post few other pics tonight, yesterday I have installed the engine support, the cross link bushing, the ABS bracket. Now seing thing coming along is quite encouraging. I only have few parts that still need to be sandblasted and painted but let say that 95% of all that stuff is done at this point, I'm going to drop the tranny next monday at a local shop to be sandblasted and then I'm going to paint the housing and put few coats of clear on it . More to come...

 

Here is few more pics. BTW I'm not installing the wheel hub in the pics. Lol

 

Starting to look good my friend. But the paint WILL chip off the rubber portions of the motor mounts.

 

That's why we didn't bother to tape the rubber part on the engine mount, anyway the masking tape hardly stick on the rubber so I didn't bother.

 

Is there suppose to be any play in the wheel hub ? while installing the used one I have yesterday I found out to have a bit of play in it and I'm not happy about that since that will generate some noise while going over bump and such. Is it possible that the bearing have been damage while they got pressed in ? I mean I had brand new wheel bearing installed but I suspect that I need to replace the wheel hub now. I'm ordering new wheel hub now, but can I re-use the bearing or do I have to replace it again with new one ? Thanks for helping.

AA

 

There will be play in it until you have an axel installed. No point in buying new ones if they already have new bearings.

 

Ok I see, good point I didn't though about that but thanks for the precision.

I will just slide the axle tonight and see if the play is reduced or how it change the play in the wh.

Thanks again.

AA

 

Got a call this morning from Mr Chromy, my engine parts are ready so I'm heading strait to the chrome shop in the next 30 minutes to get my parts. I'll post the pics later this afternoon.

 

Gentleman contemplate these beauty:






The link to the remaining pics:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0527.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0526.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0525.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0524.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0523.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0522.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0521.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0520.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0519.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0518.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0517.jpg

 

i think i need to change my pants...

 

When I picked up the parts this morning, I couldn't speak for a little while, I mean the 30 months of hard works is now starting to show. I'm very excited the way the project is going, I'm now waiting for the front sway bar and bracket to arrive before I can finish the suspension. For the next 2 weeks, I'm going to finish to clean all the remaining bolts and brackets and few parts that need to be paint & clear. That is about is for now.

Have good week-end every one.

 

Wow, that looks great man. Make sure you don't scratch it! Tape it up or something