The final C/R ratio is 9.5:1


I will start the engine N/A at first and make sure it run perfectly then once it's done, I'll just put the blower on and finish the install and hope for the best.

 

Tuning it NA will be best if you can too.

What about the exhaust setup? I know you have Cattman headers correct?

 

This is part of the " Stage 2 " Lol. I'm planning this for next winter, my idea is to cut the spare wheel well, and weld a steel plate with a box for the battery would be in the center & underneath the floor ( like on the M5 ) I would run a true dual exhaust with an X pipe in the center, I will use 2 cat + 2 resonator and 2 cattman muffler but the rest would be custom made > SS mandrel bend 2 x 2.25" or 2 x 2.5" if there is enough space, something similar to an M5 so to speak. This is the plan i have since the very beginning, I know that I will have to relocate the black box, but after all what I have been true this one will be a piece of cake.

 

Check out meximax's setup in post #33

http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...ml#post4526724

He did magna flow street series mufflers, which are really good mufflers and I plan to use them on whatever my next project may be

I really had an idea about Long Tube header setup on FWD(which is nice cause with you will be SC'd and can play with the exhaust for more power). I plan to try and make them for a friend when his project gets rolling. I will on the front side bend the individual pipes around the front of the engine, I will probably extend each individual tube another 1.5 feet and have them join in a 3" coupler. The same for the rear, I will bend the individual pipes around the chasis and join in a 3" coupler. It would remain a true dual exhaust system with an x-pipe. I however am really interested on the power gains it could possibly prove to gain, but he is building a high compression NA so it is remain to be seen. I would also have him run 2.5" true duals back, 3" duals would be too much IMO for a V6

 

This evening I started to dress-up the engine to see what it's going to look like, what do you think ?

BTW this is not the final version, as you can see on the pics some of the bolts are rusted.
All the bolts will be black chromed after my vacation.

 

I think I just found my new wallpaper...I love that purple color with the chrome!

 

I'm wondering what's the consensus about the VI, should I keep the power rod and butterfly valve or should I simply get rid of it ? wich way would make more power ?

The metal cup is broken and I'm not to sure if I want to glue that sucker with epoxy, in any eventuality is this going to be a permanent repair or will it tend to break once in a while ?

 

That's - that's beautiful.... This is going to be an incredible car when you're finished. It makes me want to take my LandShark to a car wash.

Really nice work there, AA !

 

No power rod = more power up top.

Power rod = power everywhere, especially down low.

 

everyone who fixes there cup with JB stick weld never seem to have the problem there after. So you should be okay. Besides after this project something with four screws shouldn't be too hard to remove and fix it

 

Thank you, I just hope to drive the car this summer, sometimes I think that because of the level of details there is a slight possibility that it only see the road by spring 2010 since many things can go wrong. Any how I'll make my best to burn rubber this summer. Lol

 

So I'm probably better to fix the metal cup then right ?

Thanks for the advise.

 

Fixing the regular stuff in the house will seem like a joke. The next car project will be the X5 getting a full Dinan upgrade, but you know what when the time come I'll just write a check and someone else will break his bott to do the work. Lol

 

I've been there, with my scoliosis and 4 buldging discs at 23...things aren't as easy when I was High school and its only gonna get worse.

So how is the project doubla?

 

Just got off the plane 90 minutes ago, took a week vacation in Dominican Republic.

The project has not advanced but I'll be working on it over the week-end.

 

More chrome pics:

 

Jeez!! I wouldnt even want to drive the car!! puuurdy!

 

That looks really sweet, what headers are you running?

 

MDeezy: I will only drive that car on summer time, it will be more like a collection/show car so to speak but I'll definitely run it with great care. Now that I have the X5 I can satisfied myself with a spirited run once in a while. Lol

a33i3: I'm running the Cattman Gen II headers, I've bough them used from an org member that has run it only few months. The one installed was polished but I'm probably will have them ceramic coated as the polishing wont last for very long.

 

Can anyone help me with those questions:

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...swer-asap.html

I really need to get going and I'm stuck without clear answer or indications.

Thanks a lot guys.

 

Krrz350 hit the nail right on the head, start with stock fuel setup and you need to have the EU wired in to help to tune it and help break it in properly

Do the fuel pump when you do the S/C.

 

Did you get that job finally ?

Ok I think thing are getting much clear now.

Should I install the Nismo FPR now or wait until I replace the injectors ? In the case that I install the Nismo FPR is it the ECU that will control the FPR pressure ? I guess it is but being a newb at that aspect, I'm better of be safe then sorry.

As soon as Dave B send me the rest of bolts & parts I should be good to finsih the assemble and slap the engine back. On another note my tranny was checked and is in very good condition, so I'm going to have it sandblasted next week and will paint it & clear so I doesn't look like ****.

Do you think that a 2400rpm high stall converter is good enough since I wont drag this car ? I also want a VB recalibration + a tranny cooler and hope it can last for this year. I plan to have a complete beefed up of the tranny next winter while the car is garaged.

 

The stock ecu can only "compensate" adjust the afr a little during open loop (idle partial throttle)Do not install the nismo fpr unless you have a fuel pressure gauge and or wideband to monitor so you can properly adjust your fpr & afr during idle. partial, & wot
+1 listen to krzz350.

 

I'm going to put everything back to stock, start the engine make sure it run smooth and idle properly, once this is done I'll wire the EU and see how I can fine tune everything. I'll run the engine for let say 500-1000KM and once there I'll get back to the forum and make the final plan for the S/C.

Thanks again for the great input.

 

I'm advancing the engine dress-up & waiting for many bolts and parts to arrive this week, anyway I installed the new P/S on the the engine, I believe there was a bracket to adjust it, but I cant remember wich-one it is among the seventy something that I have repainted, does anyone have a pics of that bracket ?

Thanks.


Found the bracket, thanks anyway.

 

Apparently a pics worth 1000 words.

 

Hopefully within the next week the engine will be finished, I hope to drop it in the car by next week-end, I've been waiting for that moment for a long time. Last time I drove my max was october 2005, I dream of the day that I will put the key in the ignition...

 

That first pic hurt my eyes......BLINNNG. lol

 

I can't wait either...I want plenty of videos of that moment.

and dyno #s too NA and SC

Oh and no job yet...I've been on so many interviews I have people call me and I don't know where there from its bad. I'm on unemployment again, its worth more to be on that then work a minimum wage job. Sad I know.

Check out my build thread (s10 link is in the sig). I'm not doing much without a job, just the free stuff right now. Its nothing major yet, but I hope to make it my work horse truck and daily driver.

 

Hang on in there, I'm sure if you keep up, you'll eventually find a job for sure, I mean you have the will & talent, I know the economy is bad in the US but that wont be forever. I'll check your link. I took the day off today so I work on the car, cleaning separating bolts ,nuts & crap. Keep you posted.

Cheers & good luck finding a job.

 

I was wondering what the best way to clean the injectors ? I used compressed air but can I clean them with thinner or another solvant and make sure there clean ? I'm ready to install them on the fuel rail but since they where standing on the bench top for a good while I guess it can help.

 

Yesterday I assembled the right side wheel hub & spindle, came out quite well and for most everything is freaking tight and no play with the new wheel bearing. I just need to go get my second valve cover this coming friday and this week-end is D day, yep I want to drop that engine finally. In the meantime here is some pics of the yesterday work:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0772.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0773.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0774.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0775.jpg

 

It seem that no one has paid attention, but if you look at the engine pics, the Cattman headers see in front is actually the rear one. Lol

I just figured that mistake yesterday, now I have to polish the front one as well. At first I tough I could get away by just polishing the front one but cutting corners never pays off.

 

How did I not notice that with the egr blinding me!

 

your engine is just to purdy....I can't believe I missed that.

One these days I will be back in Canada to check this thing out.

 

I guess that the many parts that attract attention made all of us blind. Lol

Hey Dave, let me know when you come back here, we'll have a heck of a time.

 

Yesterday I order what seem to be the last parts I needed to replaced, both fuel line, the lower oil pan with the 10 bolts wich are 7$ each, a missing camber bolt, the power steering line that had to be cut. Last week, I was on the impression that we could drop the engine this week-end, but because of the fuel line and few other things to install, I'm better off finishing all those little thing and drop the engine next week-end.

I think I have pretty much nailed all the annoying thing that left to be done, so I'll work my @ss of every evening this coming week and shoot for the installation of the engine next week-end.

The other thing that bog me now is the tranny, the casting is full of oxydation and I cant put it back that dirty with the clean engine bay. I was thinking to have it sand blasted but I'm afraid that sand will get in the tranny so at this point I'm thinking if I would be better off buying a brand new tranny, the cost of sandblast and painting will get over a 1000$ wich is almost half way the price of a new tranny. I'm going to do some research and see if there is a deal out there on a brand new autotragic.

 

Get it blasted with glass beads - tape up all seals and openings with a heavy tape, and have at it! Really, your machinist should know all about how to do this. The surface gets more peened than stripped off, I think. I've had lots of engine things glass-blasted - timing covers, LIM, lower oil pan and all the exterior water pipes that you painted.

New automatics are really scarce now - I think Nissan only offers rebuilt transmissions now - I was looking for one a few weeks ago and came up short.





Good luck with your massive project..

 

Hey grey99max, thanks for the pics, this part is not actually done by the machinist who did my engine, they dont really have time for this.

It's one aspect I need to take good care and do it right the first time. Yesterday I spoke with the shop owner that is going to paint my car in august, he has a good friend who own a shop that do race car tranny, he might be able to help me. I'll speak with the guy tomorrow and see what he can do.

I could have sandblasted the tranny casing and paint it myself, but I want to make sure I wont have to remove the tranny in 6 months for a rebuild and scrap the nice paint job so I want to address this issue right from the beginning so I need to do the work in the right sequence otherwise I'll spend money for nothing.

I need to make sure that the tranny is good for the power band but also that it doesn't look like a piece of junk in the engine bay.

If I cant find a local shop that can do all that then I'll send the tranny in the USA ( maybe level 10 but I believe there is another shop that may have a better reputation ) I need to check into this as a B plan.

If you have any contact for that matter please give me some name and phone numbers and I'll call them asap.

Thanks for helping.

AA

 

Check with Jime for his opinion - he knows tons about this transmission - but the stock transmission should handle all the power you're going to make. Find a low-mileage RE4F04W and use it.. They should be more common in Canada than the USA.

A factory-built transmission is almost surely more reliable than a rebuilt one. I see lots of them listed in car-part.com.

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