My n/a project
05-10-2009, 03:26 PM
#641
Check with Jime for his opinion - he knows tons about this transmission - but the stock transmission should handle all the power you're going to make. Find a low-mileage RE4F04W and use it.. They should be more common in Canada than the USA.
A factory-built transmission is almost surely more reliable than a rebuilt one. I see lots of them listed in car-part.com.
.
A factory-built transmission is almost surely more reliable than a rebuilt one. I see lots of them listed in car-part.com.
.
Thanks for your input that is helping for sure.
05-14-2009, 05:32 AM
#642
Good news, I found a local guys that own a shop that has a very good reputation and is about 20 minutes from my home. The guys name is Marc, after talking with him for about 25 minutes, I knew he was the one that would take care of my AT, he really know is stuff and has already done few Nissan show/race car.
Basically he's going to come and pick up my AT next monday, he will take it a part so I can bring the housing to get it sandblast, painted & cleared. Once this is done I will bring him back the housing and he's going to re-assemble it. He said he will replace the seal and test the solenoid since he has a dynamometer to test it. He also agree that the VLSD is a very good AT. I'm going to bring all the bolts and brackets along with the oil cover to the chrome shop. He also have a specialist that will take care of the Torque converter and modify it to suit the power band of my DEK. I need to order a valve body re-calibration and he will install it, can anyone tell me what would be the best place to order the VB ? I heard so many story that I want to make sure to buy it from the best place, I know IPT sell those at a more expensive price than other shop but can anyone shim-in and give me a word or two about this.
The AT is the last big parts that needed to be address in order to get the engine running N/A. I'm now more confident that the car should be ready to test drive in the next month. In the mean time I'm picking up some of the last few parts that are missing to install the engine, but the fuel line are still to come and wont probably show up before another 2 weeks, oh well, I got to be a little more patient before I can drop the engine in.
Thanks again for your input guys as the count down for the D day as already started.
Basically he's going to come and pick up my AT next monday, he will take it a part so I can bring the housing to get it sandblast, painted & cleared. Once this is done I will bring him back the housing and he's going to re-assemble it. He said he will replace the seal and test the solenoid since he has a dynamometer to test it. He also agree that the VLSD is a very good AT. I'm going to bring all the bolts and brackets along with the oil cover to the chrome shop. He also have a specialist that will take care of the Torque converter and modify it to suit the power band of my DEK. I need to order a valve body re-calibration and he will install it, can anyone tell me what would be the best place to order the VB ? I heard so many story that I want to make sure to buy it from the best place, I know IPT sell those at a more expensive price than other shop but can anyone shim-in and give me a word or two about this.
The AT is the last big parts that needed to be address in order to get the engine running N/A. I'm now more confident that the car should be ready to test drive in the next month. In the mean time I'm picking up some of the last few parts that are missing to install the engine, but the fuel line are still to come and wont probably show up before another 2 weeks, oh well, I got to be a little more patient before I can drop the engine in.
Thanks again for your input guys as the count down for the D day as already started.
05-14-2009, 07:37 AM
#643
AA,
I am not sure, but Kevlo used to have a modified valve body for sale. I dont know much about it, but it was modified. You might want to send him a pm to see if he still has it. Just a suggestion!
I am not sure, but Kevlo used to have a modified valve body for sale. I dont know much about it, but it was modified. You might want to send him a pm to see if he still has it. Just a suggestion!
05-14-2009, 08:45 AM
#644
I sold mine already but it was an old school VB(i think it was Don's). I believe the last company that sold it is gone. I've read all it is, is increasing the passage ways for the fluid to flow. I believe you can modify the Trans-Go shift kit and make it more aggressive by doing this.
05-14-2009, 10:14 AM
#645
WAIT I KNOW OF ONE!!!!
Searching....
http://www.valvebodyxpress.com/catal...dex_Nissan.asp
They might be able to do something special for you. just give them a call.
Searching....
http://www.valvebodyxpress.com/catal...dex_Nissan.asp
They might be able to do something special for you. just give them a call.
05-14-2009, 05:03 PM
#646
WAIT I KNOW OF ONE!!!!
Searching....
http://www.valvebodyxpress.com/catal...dex_Nissan.asp
They might be able to do something special for you. just give them a call.
Searching....
http://www.valvebodyxpress.com/catal...dex_Nissan.asp
They might be able to do something special for you. just give them a call.
Is there any place on the AT where this would be stamp ?
Sorry for those newbie question but I need to be absolutely sure before I go on an order.
Beside that they refer me to the Canadian reseller, they quoted me 673.50$ CDN $$$ can you tell me what is a fair price I can get in the USA ? I though the VB was like 400$ US wich is 496 CDN $$$
Sometime the cdn subsidiary of US company sell way more than just the difference in currency + shipping, I dont want to end-up paying 250$ more for the same thing.
Thanks for the link Dave.
05-14-2009, 06:18 PM
#647
We are RE4FO4A, it was the 3.5 guys who are B.
I couldn't honestly tell you what a good price on it would be. Last I heard there is still a place you can send it to and they can do the job can't remember where I saw it though and I believe they charged $400 cause you sent the VB. They put stiffer springs in the valves and bored out the valve area if IIRC. I was going to do a VB mod plus a shift kit ($125 in parts), cause the shift kit claimed to replace some of the weaker parts in the tranny. Other then that, that was all I was going to do.
I couldn't honestly tell you what a good price on it would be. Last I heard there is still a place you can send it to and they can do the job can't remember where I saw it though and I believe they charged $400 cause you sent the VB. They put stiffer springs in the valves and bored out the valve area if IIRC. I was going to do a VB mod plus a shift kit ($125 in parts), cause the shift kit claimed to replace some of the weaker parts in the tranny. Other then that, that was all I was going to do.
05-14-2009, 07:45 PM
#648
When I called them this pm they are saying my AT is RE4F04B, to be honest I have no fockin clue, I just know it's a 4 speed AT with VLSD and my max is the 2001 CDN SE 20th ann. how can I verify this for sure ?
Is there any place on the AT where this would be stamp ?
Sorry for those newbie question but I need to be absolutely sure before I go on an order.
Is there any place on the AT where this would be stamp ?
Sorry for those newbie question but I need to be absolutely sure before I go on an order.
Your car should have an ID plate on the firewall, under the hood. On the 4th gens, the 5th or 6th line on this plate has the model number of the transmission spelled out completely. Take a look.
Look in car-part.com and search for 1999 Infiniti Locking AT - the model number will be shown in some of the listings. Do the same thing for 2001 Infiniti Locking AT - you will see the appropriate model number shown on some listings. Both searches will cross-reference the Maxima for the same years.
As Drunkie said, "We (95-99) are RE4FO4A, it was the 3.5 guys who are B.(actually starts in 2000)" This is true for the non-VLSD trannys.. The same 4AT carries through the 2004 model year - I have one in my wife's 2004 SL Maxima.
Hope this helps....
05-15-2009, 05:12 AM
#649
Thanks for the specification, even at 48 I'm still listening to that little voice inside who sometime tell me something is wrong. When I called at the local reseller for the valvbody express it was a woman who answered my call( no offence here hey I like woman ) and she was insisting that my AT was the RE4F04B and was like wtf... You see that why I always come back here and asked, I mean how can you trust someone you dont know and foremost when you cant evaluate her or his own competency. I'm going to call them back and see how much is the RE4F04W.
05-15-2009, 06:32 AM
#650
Thanks for the specification, even at 48 I'm still listening to that little voice inside who sometime tell me something is wrong. When I called at the local reseller for the valvbody express it was a woman who answered my call( no offence here hey I like woman ) and she was insisting that my AT was the RE4F04B and was like wtf... You see that why I always come back here and asked, I mean how can you trust someone you dont know and foremost when you cant evaluate her or his own competency. I'm going to call them back and see how much is the RE4F04W.
A quick sanity check - if you have the RE4F04B, then when you look through the axle seals from one side to another, you will see a shaft going across the opening. The VLSD trannys do not have that shaft - and the driver's side axle seal is much larger than the passenger side axle seal. A quick visual check will show you what you have, if you know what to look for.
Another thought - the valve bodies are the same, for a given year, for both the non-VLSD and VLSD transmissions. A "B" model is the same as a "W" model except for the differential, I believe. The FSM shows that to be true, so you may not need to worry about it...
I can take pix if you need them.
Last edited by grey99max; 05-15-2009 at 06:36 AM.
05-15-2009, 07:26 AM
#651
A quick sanity check - if you have the RE4F04B, then when you look through the axle seals from one side to another, you will see a shaft going across the opening. The VLSD trannys do not have that shaft - and the driver's side axle seal is much larger than the passenger side axle seal. A quick visual check will show you what you have, if you know what to look for.
Another thought - the valve bodies are the same, for a given year, for both the non-VLSD and VLSD transmissions. A "B" model is the same as a "W" model except for the differential, I believe. The FSM shows that to be true, so you may not need to worry about it...
I can take pix if you need them.
Another thought - the valve bodies are the same, for a given year, for both the non-VLSD and VLSD transmissions. A "B" model is the same as a "W" model except for the differential, I believe. The FSM shows that to be true, so you may not need to worry about it...
I can take pix if you need them.
Thanks for the precision, I'll take a look at this tonight when I back home, if it's not trouble for you, a pics would be great if that is no trouble for you.
Cheers
05-15-2009, 08:11 AM
#652
.
05-15-2009, 02:45 PM
#653
I'm back home and I just checked the metal sheet with the car information and it say RE4F04W so you are right and they are wrong, no need for pics then. Thanks a bunch man
I definitely appreciate your input otherwise go figure what could have happen.
On another note, if anyone is looking at painting the tranny housing I've kind of nail it down.
The local shop is going to empty the AT case, I will then have it sandblasted once this is done I'll clean it with PPG DX579 wich is a multi-purpose phosphoric acid based cleaner and prepaint conditioner that can be use for most metals. I will put 2 coats of PPG DP40 primer /sealer and then paint it with PPG Deltron 2000 Base Coat DBC and clear it with PPG Deltron DCU 2002. This kind of coating will last fore ever and will not peel off because of heat unless the prep is not done properly.
I'll keep you posted with pics and details as this project advance.
Thanks again & have a wonderful week-end.
AA
05-15-2009, 05:34 PM
#654
I'm back home and I just checked the metal sheet with the car information and it say RE4F04W so you are right and they are wrong, no need for pics then. Thanks a bunch man
I definitely appreciate your input otherwise go figure what could have happen.
On another note, if anyone is looking at painting the tranny housing I've kind of nail it down.
The local shop is going to empty the AT case, I will then have it sandblasted once this is done I'll clean it with PPG DX579 wich is a multi-purpose phosphoric acid based cleaner and prepaint conditioner that can be use for most metals. I will put 2 coats of PPG DP40 primer /sealer and then paint it with PPG Deltron 2000 Base Coat DBC and clear it with PPG Deltron DCU 2002. This kind of coating will last fore ever and will not peel off because of heat unless the prep is not done properly.
I'll keep you posted with pics and details as this project advance.
Thanks again & have a wonderful week-end.
AA
I definitely appreciate your input otherwise go figure what could have happen.
On another note, if anyone is looking at painting the tranny housing I've kind of nail it down.
The local shop is going to empty the AT case, I will then have it sandblasted once this is done I'll clean it with PPG DX579 wich is a multi-purpose phosphoric acid based cleaner and prepaint conditioner that can be use for most metals. I will put 2 coats of PPG DP40 primer /sealer and then paint it with PPG Deltron 2000 Base Coat DBC and clear it with PPG Deltron DCU 2002. This kind of coating will last fore ever and will not peel off because of heat unless the prep is not done properly.
I'll keep you posted with pics and details as this project advance.
Thanks again & have a wonderful week-end.
AA
Your information about how to paint the transmission is just what I need to know about my engine - I had all the major parts glass-blasted and I've been trying to decide on how to dress up my Cosworth-based engine build. Now I know how to paint the timing covers and oil pan - maybe Cosworth-blue ???
Glad to help...
Harold
05-15-2009, 05:40 PM
#655
From what you've just said, your transmission is a RE4F04W, a 2000-2001 VLSD 4AT. The older 95-99 4AT VLSD is a RE4F04V. I just blew up a 2001 AE VLSD tranny (my stupid), and before that I had a '99 Infiniti VLSD installed - also blew it up after 3 years. Same "my stupid" applies here, too, but I know what they look like. They're almost identical except for the length of the valve solenoid wiring and the shifter lever. .
Your car should have an ID plate on the firewall, under the hood. On the 4th gens, the 5th or 6th line on this plate has the model number of the transmission spelled out completely. Take a look.
Look in car-part.com and search for 1999 Infiniti Locking AT - the model number will be shown in some of the listings. Do the same thing for 2001 Infiniti Locking AT - you will see the appropriate model number shown on some listings. Both searches will cross-reference the Maxima for the same years.
As Drunkie said, "We (95-99) are RE4FO4A, it was the 3.5 guys who are B.(actually starts in 2000)" This is true for the non-VLSD trannys.. The same 4AT carries through the 2004 model year - I have one in my wife's 2004 SL Maxima.
Hope this helps....
Your car should have an ID plate on the firewall, under the hood. On the 4th gens, the 5th or 6th line on this plate has the model number of the transmission spelled out completely. Take a look.
Look in car-part.com and search for 1999 Infiniti Locking AT - the model number will be shown in some of the listings. Do the same thing for 2001 Infiniti Locking AT - you will see the appropriate model number shown on some listings. Both searches will cross-reference the Maxima for the same years.
As Drunkie said, "We (95-99) are RE4FO4A, it was the 3.5 guys who are B.(actually starts in 2000)" This is true for the non-VLSD trannys.. The same 4AT carries through the 2004 model year - I have one in my wife's 2004 SL Maxima.
Hope this helps....
But again these days, I'm fiddling with a 4.3 engine which is completely different.
05-15-2009, 06:41 PM
#657
05-15-2009, 06:57 PM
#658
I used PPG Deltron 2000 DBC base coat, I'm using the same base coat for the AT, the only difference is the primer/sealer/surfacer. For the engine bay I used Acrylic Urethane, DPS 3051 and DP3055 if I remember correctly.
For the AT or engine block DP40LX is better suited wich is a non sanding epoxy primer/sealer. I mean I dont see myself spending a week sanding the tranny so washing with DX579 is the key after sandblasting, but you got to be very careful using that product, my advice is to wear rubber glove, eye protection glass, a body suit and a breather mask with NIOSH cartridge. Make sure you spray with DX579 in a well ventilated area, if you follow those precaution there wont be any problem at all and you'll achieve professional result. If you have any question I'm getting quite familiar using PPG product, wich by the way are high quality products.
For the AT or engine block DP40LX is better suited wich is a non sanding epoxy primer/sealer. I mean I dont see myself spending a week sanding the tranny so washing with DX579 is the key after sandblasting, but you got to be very careful using that product, my advice is to wear rubber glove, eye protection glass, a body suit and a breather mask with NIOSH cartridge. Make sure you spray with DX579 in a well ventilated area, if you follow those precaution there wont be any problem at all and you'll achieve professional result. If you have any question I'm getting quite familiar using PPG product, wich by the way are high quality products.
05-16-2009, 06:42 AM
#659
One thing I forgot, I'm having a hard time finding a 2k1 front valve cover, I know Dave shipped me one out months ago, but I never got it and still dont know what happen to that. ( I'm not here to bash at Dave he's been nothing but very help full from quite sometime ) I called few junkyard and it's either they dont want to sell it without the engine or they dont have one available.
When I had my valve cover chromed, if you look underneath there is a metal sheet that is riveted, they had to take it off to not contaminate the chrome process. When it was remove they find out that some of metal separator are all rusted and I cannot be use anymore, but this metal sheet is part of the valve cover and cannot be purchase separately, at this point I'm stock with the final assembly until I find another 2k1 front valve cover ( and hope the metal sheet is in good condition ) this can be fabricate but that will be a PITA to do. Does anyone has a 2k1 front valve cover ( the one with oil cap ) available, I just need the back metal sheet but I can take car of that.
Here the pics of the part I need: ( the part is not that color, this was after it was copper plated they found something was contaminating the chrome and then they had to take it off and re-plate the valve cover.
When I had my valve cover chromed, if you look underneath there is a metal sheet that is riveted, they had to take it off to not contaminate the chrome process. When it was remove they find out that some of metal separator are all rusted and I cannot be use anymore, but this metal sheet is part of the valve cover and cannot be purchase separately, at this point I'm stock with the final assembly until I find another 2k1 front valve cover ( and hope the metal sheet is in good condition ) this can be fabricate but that will be a PITA to do. Does anyone has a 2k1 front valve cover ( the one with oil cap ) available, I just need the back metal sheet but I can take car of that.
Here the pics of the part I need: ( the part is not that color, this was after it was copper plated they found something was contaminating the chrome and then they had to take it off and re-plate the valve cover.
Last edited by doublea; 05-16-2009 at 06:45 AM.
05-16-2009, 09:09 PM
#661
I'm going to V8s now, I probably won't do much to it if its not an LS V8. Right now engine builds and all the like are kind of not an option right now, with me finishing school and being about 50k$ in debt without a job sucks. Someday I want to come back to game and play.
I used PPG Deltron 2000 DBC base coat, I'm using the same base coat for the AT, the only difference is the primer/sealer/surfacer. For the engine bay I used Acrylic Urethane, DPS 3051 and DP3055 if I remember correctly.
For the AT or engine block DP40LX is better suited wich is a non sanding epoxy primer/sealer. I mean I dont see myself spending a week sanding the tranny so washing with DX579 is the key after sandblasting, but you got to be very careful using that product, my advice is to wear rubber glove, eye protection glass, a body suit and a breather mask with NIOSH cartridge. Make sure you spray with DX579 in a well ventilated area, if you follow those precaution there wont be any problem at all and you'll achieve professional result. If you have any question I'm getting quite familiar using PPG product, wich by the way are high quality products.
For the AT or engine block DP40LX is better suited wich is a non sanding epoxy primer/sealer. I mean I dont see myself spending a week sanding the tranny so washing with DX579 is the key after sandblasting, but you got to be very careful using that product, my advice is to wear rubber glove, eye protection glass, a body suit and a breather mask with NIOSH cartridge. Make sure you spray with DX579 in a well ventilated area, if you follow those precaution there wont be any problem at all and you'll achieve professional result. If you have any question I'm getting quite familiar using PPG product, wich by the way are high quality products.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 05-16-2009 at 09:13 PM.
05-18-2009, 06:42 AM
#662
I think I may have found a 2k1 front valve cover, just waiting with the seller and hopefully it will arrive in a week. For now I'm just going to go fishing with my son as we finally have a sunny day here. Talking about global warming, the rocket scientist probably never came here, it was 3 celcius early this am, it's suppose to climb to 14 wich is about 60 f. Lol
05-19-2009, 03:08 PM
#665
Those are fuel/ vacuum lines/brackets that surround the upper intake manifold (00VI)
You can sort of see them in these pics (brass copper looking brackets)
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...num=2&ct=image
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-...1%7C240%3A1318
http://www.ecarlist.com/showroom/117.../291595#61.jpg
Here they are with the hoses still conected.
I think it will all come together like a puzzle once you place them near the oovi
You can sort of see them in these pics (brass copper looking brackets)
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...num=2&ct=image
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-...1%7C240%3A1318
http://www.ecarlist.com/showroom/117.../291595#61.jpg
Here they are with the hoses still conected.
I think it will all come together like a puzzle once you place them near the oovi
Last edited by accordingtou; 05-19-2009 at 03:31 PM.
05-19-2009, 05:21 PM
#668
Tell me about it, 42 months without driving the max... I'm still waiting for the fuel line to arrive, when I removed the engine I couldn't unscrew the 2 fitting so I had to cut it. Also the tranny shop is going to pick my AT next monday since I cant take a day off this week I'm too busy with the work. I found the front valve cover, I should have pretty much everything in about a week or so.
05-19-2009, 08:19 PM
#669
I was able to install 2 out of 3, I couldn't figure the 3rd pics yet. My cousin is coming next week end, he has a 2K maxima so I'll take a bunch of pics and see where it goes.
Thanks again for the assistance.
Thanks again for the assistance.
05-23-2009, 06:39 AM
#670
Just got the valve cover yesterday, I'm really happy since the back cover is in very good condition, I already started to pop out the rivet so I can transplant it to the chrome valve cover, I'm doing this today. I also got the new oil pan with the new bolts so those are pretty much the last few part missing for the engine. I still need to shave the alternator top so it clear the coolant extended adapter but I should be able to finish all that this week-end. Thing look good for an engine drop by this monday ( if I can find a friend to help ) otherwise that will be for sure saturday may 30 th. I will install the fuel line after the engine is dropped in unless I get the lines this coming week. I also fixed the VIAS broken cup with JBweld, it worked like a charm. Is there anything I should do/know before I drop the engine in, ( I was told to loosen the back headers before I drop the engine in ) I mean any hose that absolutely need to be plugged in before or anything special, any input for that matter is welcome.
Cheers
AA
Cheers
AA
05-25-2009, 08:25 PM
#671
Pics of the VC back plate installed:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0805.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0806.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0807.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0809.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0810.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0805.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0806.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0807.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0809.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0810.jpg
05-26-2009, 05:56 AM
#672
Marc the owner of the transmission shop, came by to pick up the AT yesterday, I'm really happy to have found him true some friends. I cant say enough that he's such a nice guy, I mean he drove 15 miles to come and pick up the AT for free. They are tearing off the AT today or tomorrow.
As for the VB recal, he was saying unless it's a race VB that need special solenoid they can do the work for much less than buying one for 675$. They will also take care of the torque converter, his technician will call me so we can talk about my goals so to speak. He's going to call me once the AT is all a part and then I could bring all the bolts and the AT oil cover to the chrome shop while the housing will be sandblasted and painted in another shop.
I kind of show him were I stand with my build at this point, and what's left to be done. On a side note he was very impress with my project, he mentioned that it is the first time he see a project so detailed all done in a home garage, he asked me if he could take some pics of the car and engine. I was a bit flattered by his comment, I'm a very down to earth person but nice comment like this coming from a pro is better than a big reward. He left my garage, saying that he'd like to make a project in collaboration with me sometime in the futur, like building a Mach one.
As for the VB recal, he was saying unless it's a race VB that need special solenoid they can do the work for much less than buying one for 675$. They will also take care of the torque converter, his technician will call me so we can talk about my goals so to speak. He's going to call me once the AT is all a part and then I could bring all the bolts and the AT oil cover to the chrome shop while the housing will be sandblasted and painted in another shop.
I kind of show him were I stand with my build at this point, and what's left to be done. On a side note he was very impress with my project, he mentioned that it is the first time he see a project so detailed all done in a home garage, he asked me if he could take some pics of the car and engine. I was a bit flattered by his comment, I'm a very down to earth person but nice comment like this coming from a pro is better than a big reward. He left my garage, saying that he'd like to make a project in collaboration with me sometime in the futur, like building a Mach one.
05-26-2009, 04:14 PM
#673
When I removed the engine the AT was attached to it, but now I want to put it back in 2 steps, the engine first and then the AT. With all the chrome and such I dont want to scrap the nice work, but I'm wondering if I have to remove the driver side, LCA, Spindle wheel hub and all in order to install the AT. Can anyone shed some light as to what step should I follow, the AT is what is bothering me at this poing, it's hard to handle and I absolutely need to avoid mistake here, like having to remove the AT a second time and the risk of scratching the housing or chrome. I guess I need to follow the right sequence and make sure it goes as smooth as possible. Still shooting for saturday morning 8:00 am.
05-26-2009, 10:23 PM
#674
hmmmmmm....
I would install it as one whole unit too, like you said its easier and helps to protect the work. Removing the LCA wouldn't be neccessary, but removing the spindle could make things easier, since this suspension is so easily disassembled I would do it for the room to install the axle and anything else that may need to be installed. But any way will work and it can be done without damaging anything if you are careful enough.
I would install it as one whole unit too, like you said its easier and helps to protect the work. Removing the LCA wouldn't be neccessary, but removing the spindle could make things easier, since this suspension is so easily disassembled I would do it for the room to install the axle and anything else that may need to be installed. But any way will work and it can be done without damaging anything if you are careful enough.
05-27-2009, 05:31 PM
#675
That's going to be tough to put the engine & tranny at once, I will need at least 2 or 3 helpers to make sure we dont hit anything while dropping in the engine bay. I'll see if I can find some help around. Stay tune as D day is approaching.
Cheers
AA
Cheers
AA
05-29-2009, 05:44 AM
#676
I want to replace the stock ignition coil, does anyone know what's the best deal around, or is there any specific version, brand, like Nissan or OEM or performance one see what I mean. I also need to buy new spark plug, I guess I will need to buy 2 set one for N/A and one set for when the engine will be boosted. I getting down to the last few things, so I want to order asap as my engine is ready drop in, still waiting for the freaking fuel line that take forever to arrive but anyhow the A/T wont be ready before another 2-3 weeks so patience is the word for now.
05-29-2009, 06:31 AM
#677
As far as I know there aren't any better coils available, some ppl boost the voltage goign to the stock ones but otherwise it's all OEM for coils. What is wrong with the ones you have?
05-29-2009, 09:14 AM
#678
When I got the car in the garage 3 years ago they where fine and all but I'm thinking that since the coils has been sitting on a drawer for 3 years, it might not be a bad idea to replace it all, instead of the risk facing a problem when the time to start the engine. With all the money I've thrown so far another 300$ for such important aspect seem money wisely spend. do you think ?
05-29-2009, 10:19 AM
#680