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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 06:35 AM
  #1121  
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Oh wow very nice.
Old Aug 27, 2010 | 07:33 AM
  #1122  
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I'm going to have to move my bott, to get this car running soon. lol

I still have a few things to fix that I'm not so comfortable to deal with but I dont have a choice and need to get my aging body underneath the car > the evap canister, I also discover that I forgot to tie the rubber boot on the rack & pinion man this one is going to be a PITA to do, I might just buy some stainless steel colar instead of the wire that need to be twisted. In the meantime I have fixed the broken nipple on the UIM ( for the brake booster ) I found some really good epoxy that just took care of this, otherwise I would have had to take the UIM out which I was trying to avoid by all mean.

I'm taking off at the country house for the week-end, and will try to finish as much as I can next week. I should get the radiator hoses either today or monday. I have received the 5th gen collar this morning, that will be install next week. As for the EU in the glove box, I need to work this out a little bit, I need to hide the cable under the dash board and just keep about a foot of cable in the glove box.
Old Aug 30, 2010 | 03:09 PM
  #1123  
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Ah looks like you got Kyle's Plug-n-Play harness!
Old Aug 30, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #1124  
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Originally Posted by DrunkieTheBear
Ah looks like you got Kyle's Plug-n-Play harness!
That make it so much easier, I could have wired the car but I know the amount of work that it is required, so this cable saved me a lot. I just need to make a better job at hiding the cable under the dash board. I also want to fabricate a ventilated foam container so the EU is secured in the glove box and doesn't move freely.

Last edited by doublea; Aug 31, 2010 at 06:32 AM.
Old Aug 30, 2010 | 05:44 PM
  #1125  
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On another note, I'm currently cutting and shaping new brake line, the one that goes between the abs actuator and the brake oil container, now do I have to use some lock tight for the screw ? which color ?

Edit: No lock tight required, just needed to double flange the brake line, problem is fixed

Last edited by doublea; Aug 30, 2010 at 08:12 PM.
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 05:12 AM
  #1126  
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The new black box has been installed yesterday, it is now located in the rear center toward the bumper ( between the 2 cattman muffler ), I have extended the wiring and now I just need to finish the spaghetti hoses connection and hook up the vacuum cut valve, I found the diagram on the FSM (EC41) I might be able to finish the installation tonight. I also need to figure out some heat shield cuz the original are no longer appropriate since there is no more wheel well, I'm thinking of using aluminum diamond plate that will be cut and fixed on the rear bracing ( when the wheel well was cut we framed and welded the rear with 1" square tubing ) I want to bolt the diamond plate on the frame tubing, that will serve dual purpose of heat shield and look.
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #1127  
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I have finally figured out on the hoses connection for evap box, man this was stressing me. I guess my taught was that it 's going to be a pita but after spending 30 minutes, thinking about that, I pretty much figured it out, I also found the bracket with the 2 cut valve. I just need to get an adaptor that goes from a 3/8" to let say 5/8" roughly, those are not the actual dimension but just to give an idea. I'm leaving for 3 days tomorrow but I'll try to take care of it otherwise that will have to wait until next monday when I'm back. I still haven't bought the oil & tranny cooler but I will take care of this tomorrow. I think I could reasonably say that this car will breath again this month.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 03:23 PM
  #1128  
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I have finish the moke-up with the cheap high temps hose, I wanted to do this first in order to see what it look like, next week I'm going to cut all the Russell SS hose & make the final set-up, the evap box is going to be boxed with aluminum diamond plate. I also want to redo the bracing where the wheel well was, I'm not satisfied with some of the welds, for the time being I guess it was ok but seeing where this project is going I cant cut corner and I wont.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 06:37 AM
  #1129  
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Beside the XD-16 gage that I bought with the LC1 wide band, If I would only use 3 more gages which one would you recommend that are the most useful/important ?

Last edited by doublea; Sep 4, 2010 at 06:55 AM.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 09:54 AM
  #1130  
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fuel pressure, tranny temp, boost (not necessary really - but helpful), or maybe oil temp
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 10:08 AM
  #1131  
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I want to get one of these AeroForce gauges. I've been holding out for their new gauge which was supposed to be out in August...

http://www.aeroforcetech.com/products_interceptor.html

They use the OBD2 port to read off parameters directly from the ECU. I checked with the sales department earlier this year and if it doesn't work I can send it back for a refund. It supports quite a few engine parameters (though some won't work since the car doesn't have some of the sensors). They do offer sensor packages that would allow you to run one of there analogic gauges and 2 sensors of your choice (say fuel pressure and boost) and program warning lights on the gauge.

You might want to check that out if you only have limited places for gauges, since you could combine 2 per analogic gauge and several with the interceptor (assuming it covers parameters you want to see).

Last edited by Mad-MAX_SE; Sep 4, 2010 at 10:20 AM.
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 06:17 AM
  #1132  
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I have a triple gauge pod, so beside the XD16, I like the idea to have 2 gauges that can have dual reading, like oil temp & tranny temp and let say boost and fuel pressure. Thanks for the links I'm going to contact aeroforcetech and see when they could ship.
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #1133  
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Unhappy can this be done

hey ia new to maxima.org i have a question i have two maximas one is a 2001 that needs a engine the other is a 1999 .will the engine out of the 1999 fit in the 2001 please help me out both have fourth vin numbers c
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 09:45 PM
  #1134  
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Originally Posted by dontay23
hey ia new to maxima.org i have a question i have two maximas one is a 2001 that needs a engine the other is a 1999 .will the engine out of the 1999 fit in the 2001 please help me out both have fourth vin numbers c
Why would you ask that in THIS thread? Your question has absolutely nothing to do with this topic.
Old Sep 6, 2010 | 06:26 AM
  #1135  
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I dont know if anyone has ever tempted to install a VQ30 into a 2K1, but there are many org member who have installed a VQ30DEK into a 4 th gen which is the opposite of you are asking. I cant help much for that matter.
Old Sep 7, 2010 | 03:51 AM
  #1136  
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Originally Posted by Mad-MAX_SE
I want to get one of these AeroForce gauges. I've been holding out for their new gauge which was supposed to be out in August...

http://www.aeroforcetech.com/products_interceptor.html

They use the OBD2 port to read off parameters directly from the ECU. I checked with the sales department earlier this year and if it doesn't work I can send it back for a refund. It supports quite a few engine parameters (though some won't work since the car doesn't have some of the sensors). They do offer sensor packages that would allow you to run one of there analogic gauges and 2 sensors of your choice (say fuel pressure and boost) and program warning lights on the gauge.

You might want to check that out if you only have limited places for gauges, since you could combine 2 per analogic gauge and several with the interceptor (assuming it covers parameters you want to see).

I have one of these in my GTP....best $200 I ever spent. Tells me everything that is going on with the engine, including Dianostics codes as well which is awesome
Old Sep 7, 2010 | 04:32 AM
  #1137  
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I like the fact they can give you that much informations.

P.S: I will finish the wiring of the evap box tonight and finish as much as I can during the evening, I'm very close to crank her up, maybe next week-end but I need to order the 2 coolers first and foremost get the freakin radiator hoses.
Old Sep 10, 2010 | 04:29 AM
  #1138  
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The evap system is all hooked up & finish, I didn't use the Russel SS line, because of the tight space available, I will enclose the black box and hoses in an aluminum box which will help to protect from the 2 mufflers heat. I now just need to finish the battery box, and plug the cable. I also find out that one of the brake line is still leaking on the ABS actuator, if anyone has a ABS actuator for a 2k1 for sale please let me know but in the mean time I'm going try to fix it one last time. I didn't get my radiator hoses and it's been 3 weeks already I order those, I hope I will get it today otherwise I wont be able to start the car this week-end.
Old Sep 12, 2010 | 06:35 AM
  #1139  
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I went to see my friend Nick ( the welder ) and though he would perhaps have finished the battery box frame but he's loaded of work and didn't had a chance to start yet.... That make me think that I really need to get a welding machine tig/arc /plasma asap. I understand that people are busy but I hate to wait 3 weeks for nothing, so I'm going to see what I can get and at what price. Dont get me wrong I dont think I will become a better welder than my friend but getting a TIG will allow me to do what I want when I want. Yesterday I relocated the battery cable, and finish the cable management in the trunck, the evap system is all finished and clean.
Old Sep 12, 2010 | 12:45 PM
  #1140  
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For the one if may interest, I'm shopping for an affordable 3 in 1 welding station, Tig, Arc, plasma cutting, I have created a thread here: http://forums.maxima.org/garage-work...r-station.html
Old Sep 12, 2010 | 12:51 PM
  #1141  
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Originally Posted by doublea

Old Sep 12, 2010 | 03:17 PM
  #1142  
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I thought this week-end would be D day, but because I didn't get my radiator hoses friday I knew my week-end was kind of screw up so to speak. The battery cable is in the trunk waiting to be plugged in. I can probably fix all the small kinks and such this week but I need to get the damn radiator hose, Coolflex doesn't answer my e-mail so I`m going to call them tomorrow, I'm also buying the tig tomorrow so I can fabricate the battery box frame and fix it asap.
Old Sep 12, 2010 | 03:21 PM
  #1143  
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Your jumpers and parameter settings on the EU are all setup, or no?
Old Sep 12, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #1144  
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Originally Posted by MoncefA33
Your jumpers and parameter settings on the EU are all setup, or no?

I have not set-up jumpers or parameter yet, I need to read on how to start the whole thing, I'm wondering if I have to start the car before I can start making the setting on EU. I believe I have some write up for EU but being a computer guy, I'm going to read a bit more once all the crap is fixed.
Old Sep 13, 2010 | 11:20 AM
  #1145  
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Woooohoooo, finally I was able to get the coolflex radiator hoses, man this is going to look sick... Apparently Canada Post has tried to deliver at my office while we where close for the labor day, they didn't left any tag on the door and they apparently tried to deliver 3 times but the last time was on sept 7th at 3:25 am WTF... Anyway I got the hoses and will install it tonight.
Old Sep 18, 2010 | 07:55 AM
  #1146  
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Nice, so ready to turn it on yet?
Old Sep 18, 2010 | 02:27 PM
  #1147  
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I'm close, but I need to hook up the o2 wideband and put up the exhaust together. Few bolts to torq and 2 vacuum to fix and at last put all the fluid in the engine, and the EU set-up.
Old Sep 19, 2010 | 05:25 AM
  #1148  
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Does anyone know if there are bushing available for the rear axle beam, I have replace the trailing arm bushing, but while I was looking underneath I found that the bushing on the Multi-Link Beam, I mean the smaller axle ( dont know how it is called ) doesn't look that good, do I have to replace the entire arm or is there a ES bushing insert that can be purchased separately ?
Old Sep 19, 2010 | 06:46 AM
  #1149  
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 09:38 AM
  #1150  
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I just replied. Sorry I missed your call, I was having fun on my ATV in NDDLM. I'll be back later today.
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 05:37 AM
  #1151  
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I'm still trying to find the 90 degree adapter for the sandwich plate, I can buy those online but I though this would be an easy find locally but not yet. I got some strait one but I'm afraid it can hit the axle and it's a tight space so it's a no go. I'm going to stop at a performance shop after work and see if I can find those. I have yet to order the engine & tranny cooler, but I will try to order those today. Once the cooler are in I will be good to try to start the car.

BTW the evap puzzle is finished just need to boxed the evap canister with some alu plate to protect it against both muffler heat. The battery is ready to be plug-in as all the wiring is done, I'm waiting for the welding station to arrive so I can solder the ground to the chassis. I have also ordered a new scott russel link, I want to play with the old one and see if I can fit an ES bushing in there and make the beam tighter.

I'm getting really anxious to start the car, I have very few minor things to fix so it look like that is going to happen this month. Yesterday I have start to installed the Innovate wide band, the gauge and gauge pod are installed, but I have to start the engine before I can calibrate the LC1.

Last edited by doublea; Sep 30, 2010 at 05:40 AM.
Old Oct 12, 2010 | 05:12 AM
  #1152  
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I went a couple of place and couldn't find the 90 degree adaptor, I'm going to stop at another shop this am, if I dont find them I will order online. I have to pick-up my FSTB which has been chrome plated black. I'm going to finish the battery box frame and work on the exhaust mock-up, as soon as I get the sandwich plate adaptor I will put the engine & tranny oil and hopefully crank the car over the next week-end. This week-end we had to pull the boat/ out of the water and do some work at the town house before winter kick-in, next week-end I'm staying in town.
Old Oct 12, 2010 | 05:38 PM
  #1153  
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I found a local business, that is going to make me a special fitting, I will bring them the SS Russel hoses and they will attach it to the fitting using some kind of locking ring that wont pop-up unless extreme force is apply. It's hard to describe but once I will have the line made I will post some pics, that will take only few days.
Old Oct 17, 2010 | 06:32 AM
  #1154  
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Hey guys, I have installed a T where the oil pressure switch is and put a plug so there is no leak, everything is in place once the S/C is ready to be installed it will be easy to intall the oil line. At this point I'm just missing the oil cooler lines, wich will be ready this week.

I cant wait since I believe this is the last thing i needed to do in order to put all the fluid in the engine, ( coolant,engine oil, tranny oil ) Now I'm wondering if I should try to start the engine with EU installed or without ? This is an aspect that stress me a little at this point, any advice would be greatly appreciate as usual. I'm hoping to start the engine for next week-end wich sound reasonable, but it all depend if the oil cooler line are ready. The few little things that need to be install will be done this week, wich is a bracket that hold some of the lines between the engine and firewall. I also need to attach the rack & pinion boot. At last I need to verify the torq on some bolts that just been tight without being torq.

Last edited by doublea; Oct 17, 2010 at 06:34 AM.
Old Oct 25, 2010 | 11:24 AM
  #1155  
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I have found some 90 degree adaptor for the sandwich plate, I think it's going to be a close call. I will post some pics once back from work. It is very close to the axle, I think the rubber boot might hit that adaptor when suspension is travelling, but I'll let you be the judge. The other solution is to have this local business to make me some custom hard line that will mate with the Russell SS line. Not that expensive but I wanted to see if I could fix this over the week-end with just adaptor, wich I did, but I'm scared it might hit the Axle boot.




There is only a hand full of thing to fix but it seem to take forever to get there... Anyway I'm doing my best but that is not fast enough for me. Lol
Old Oct 25, 2010 | 11:54 AM
  #1156  
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Start it with just the stock ECU hooked up, no EU.
Old Oct 25, 2010 | 12:01 PM
  #1157  
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Originally Posted by MoncefA33
Start it with just the stock ECU hooked up, no EU.
Ok thanks for the advise, that's what I tough but with zero experience with EU, I tough I was better to ask. I'm real close but I still have few bugging things to take care which seem to take forever to fix. The ABS actuator is still leaking but I found out over the week-end I didn't had the right size fitting, I was able to find the right size but only got 2 and missing few more.
Old Oct 25, 2010 | 12:02 PM
  #1158  
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I also got my FSTB back from the chrome shop, I installed it and will post pics later.
Old Oct 25, 2010 | 12:05 PM
  #1159  
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Originally Posted by doublea
Ok thanks for the advise, that's what I tough but with zero experience with EU, I tough I was better to ask. I'm real close but I still have few bugging things to take care which seem to take forever to fix. The ABS actuator is still leaking but I found out over the week-end I didn't had the right size fitting, I was able to find the right size but only got 2 and missing few more.
Yeah, with a build like this, I'd keep the initial startup free of things that aren't necessary, it will help troubleshooting since it's one less thing to check.

Look at the Dandy EU writeup on Jumper/Parameter setting, it's easy to setup.
Old Oct 25, 2010 | 12:08 PM
  #1160  
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I have Kyle EU cable so I dunno if I could follow the same path ?



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