doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys, is there any problem soldering a wire extension to the maf wiring ? After tuking the wires it seem that the MAF wire are a little too short now.

Beside that here is a list of thing to finish.

1-Still waiting for the radiator hose and a hose kit for the power steering fluid container
2-Battery box frame ( partially done )
3-Black box hoses
4-Transmission hoses that goes to the radiator ( on order but still waiting for it )
5-I need to install the voltage amplifier ( spoke with greymax, now I just need to read... )
6-EU & O2 wide band wiring
7-I need to fabricate a bracket for the alternator ( shaving the notch doesn't fix it )
8-I need a new windshield window
9-Welding the exhaust piping and muffler bracket.
10-I need to fabricate custom exhaust shield
11-I have to fix a leak on the brake line where it connect to the abs actuator
12-Put fluid in engine, tranny, radiator, P/S etc.

I'm probably forgetting few things but that is pretty much what is left to be done.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

You, sir, have an incredible capacity for details! I certainly hope you get this finished and running soon... it's beautiful.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

My wife keep telling me that I'm a perfectionist. When I see that I can do better, I cant seem to be able to give it up and that just add up more works and expenses ( I couldn't care less ). Since you are logged-in maybe you can refresh my memory about the voltage amplifier ( I dont remember which wire I have to tap in to increase the voltage to the coil )

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

OK - glad to help - you would have to check in the wiring section of your FSM, but there is one wire that comes from the battery + and goes to all of the coils. It should go through a connector to get to the coils as one wire, and that's the one you open up and use the battery+ side to run the power supply and connect the side that continues on to the coils to the output of the power supply.

EDIT - I found a 2001 manual, and Page 24 in the EC section shows the coil power wiring, but I don't see the connector details..... Power comes through the ECM relay, which may be mounted near the radiator near the battery.

.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Ok thanks, I'm reading the fsm right now, I'll check the wiring tomorrow.

I hope to start the car sometime during the summer, but anything could go wrong and push that date to the fall. I prefer to take my time I'm in no hurry. I want to work the interior and paint the car during the winter so I still have a lot of work ahead.

Thanks for the reference, that is going to save me some time.

Cheers

Andre

ronvr6

ok i allready did my vq35 swap on my max, i runned for 2 years by now till yesterday i lost a piston with the rain lol, not funny... but i still have my vq30 in good conditions and im thinking on puttin the vq35 heads on the vq30 shortblock......
do u think thats a good idea????????????????

vq35 swap with intake and catback, push 13.8 @99mph 1/4mille, with only 220whp

ronvr6

hey i allready did my vq35 swap like 2 years ago till las night when i lost my engine cause the rain by the intake.

i still have my vq30 jdm in good conditions and i was thinkin on putting my vq35 heads on the vq30 short block. do u thinnnnk its a good idea??????????

vq35 swap katback, intake. i push 13.8 @99mph 1/4mille, with 220whp.

MoncefA33

iTrader: (6)

This is the wrong thread to post in, sir.

No, it's not a good idea, since you will lose compression. Put the stock VQ30 heads on if you still have em, or ****** a VQ35 up and throw that back in your car.

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

I'm just wondering about those ground on the engine with the chrome plating, I'm wondering if they will make full contact to the metal. Not sure on chrome plating and how that will affect everything.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Chrome is not a very good conductor but I have bought some ground strap to make sure I have good ground.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I have taken a look in the engine bay but it's like searching a needle in a hay stack. lol

I see the diagram but I'm wondering if I have to tap in each wire that goes to the coil or perhaps there is one wire that feed the six coil ?


Edit: I have look at the diagram more in deep, I see there is a ECM relay that feed the 6 coils, anyone know what it look like ?
I think I would have to tap into the ECM relay but can someone confirm this.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

You only need to tap into one wire - the common wire from the ECM relay that feeds all six coils. It may ( probably ) go through one of the connectors in the engine bay - but I don't know which one.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Ok after looking at the diagram, I found that there is a relay coming from the ECM to the coil, so I think this is where I will have to tap in, but I first need to locate the connector. I will try to find it tonight. On the other hand to you know what the ECM look like ? I know it's a newbie question but I'm being honest by saying I'm far from knowing everything about this car.

Thanks for your help, it is greatly appreciate.

AA

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I'll look in my 2001 FSM and see if I can find some details. The engine wiring loom is complex in that car.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

You absolutely right on that one.

Thanks again.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I went through the 2001 Nissan FSM and located the ECM Relay in an enclosure mounted in front of the battery, on page EL-353. The Engine Room Harness is shown on EL-364, and the Engine Control Harness is on page EL-368.


Page EL-364 shows an exploded view of the ECM Relay (E32) enclosure, including the cables leaving the relay enclosure. These cables go to the Engine Control Harness and other places, but the connectors you want to look at are on the driver's side of the Engine Control Harness. However, I don't see a way to identify which connector feeds the coils.

If you unplug all the coil connectors (F3, F5, F6, F30, F31, F35) and harness connectors and identify which of the three pins on each coil connector is ( + ) you can use an ohmmeter from the coil ( + ) terminal and check all the connectors on the driver's side of the Engine Control Harness until you find the one you need. It will probably be a 6-pin connector. Open up the wire going from the relay box to the connector and insert the power supply there, using the wire from the ECM relay as power and the wire going to the connector as switchable power to the coils.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Simply awesome, with these informations I'll definitely be able to locate the connector, I'll use an ohm meter and verify each wire that should be no brainer. I will take some pics to show the connector, wires etc.

I will post over the next few days.

Thanks a bunch.

AA

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I took some pics of the connector and what I believe to be the wire to tap in. I didn't had an ohm-meter handy, so my assumption are based on a visual inspection, but I will confirm later tonight once I check with an ohm meter.

See the pics:
Connector box with the ECM relay:


This might be the wire to tap in:


Pics from underneath the relay box:


The red wire in the middle of the top row is the one I believe that supply power to the coil.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Now if that is the right wire to tap in, how do I have to do it ? Just splice the wirer from underneath ?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

You intercept the wire so that the booster gets the in and the booster out goes to the coils.

I plan on installing mine today or tomorrow.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hi Kevlo, thanks for shim in.

Does this mean that I cut the wire from underneath, leaving a one inch snake on the connector side, then there will be one wire going to the connector and one wire going to the coil. It's been a while since I have purchased the amp so I dont remember how many wire there is to hook up.

I will try to make a schematic so it will be easier to understand.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

That should be it

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Ok got it, I'll take a look at it tonight and will try the installation. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again.

AA

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I left the ohm meter at the office yesterday, crap... I wont have the chance to take care of this until until next week, I'm taking a few days off with family & friends at our country house to celebrate " La St-Jean Baptiste " wich is the equivalent of the 4th of july for us in Quebec. I will come back tuesday and take 2 full days to work on the car, at this point I'm only missing the radiator hoses and the 2 hoses the that goes from the tranny to the rad. yesterday I received the hose kit for the rack & pignion and power steering. During those 2 days I want to install the remaining parts but also fabricate the alternator bracket, battery box support and for most finish the black box installation.

Yesterday I ordered a new black box since the one I have was repaired but I wasn't sure if it was sealed correctly so I dont want to take a chance. I know I'm getting close
and I should be able to start it in july, this is my ultimate goal and I will work my bott's off to meet that dead line and make her run again. I'm sure if I had the help of 2 guys that know there stuff we would be able to start her in a matter of a day or two but my friends are not mecanically incline so this is not an option.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Can you do me a favor? Can you measure the bottom rad hose?

I need to see how long the 5th gen hose is from the entrance of rad to the first bend going up.
My turbo pipes hit the hose and if the 5th gen hose is a lil bit longer that will be perfect for me.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Ok I'm leaving for my home later today, so I will take that measurement and post it asap.

Do you happend to have a modified thermostat housing ?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

No, I never installed it. I might do it when I change this rad hose tho.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hi Kevlo, from the bottom strait to the top it is 10 inches, there is another 3-4 inches to reach the regular thermostat housing location. I will double check my measurement this morning and will report back if any change.

I'm going to buy the radiator hoses shown here: http://www.coolflex.com/cfm/welcome.cfm

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Ha, yea that is what I was planning to do as well. SummitRacing has the universal kits that I was planning to try out. I think I can make it all fit

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...s/?Ns=Rank|Asc

Should save you some money, they all look pretty much the same to me.
We just need to measure the inner id. Def looks less than 2in.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Here is the inner/outside measurement checked with a calibrated vernier caliper.

in = 31.47 mm or 1.239 inche
out = 35.72mm or 1.4065 inche ( 1" 3/8 )

doublea

iTrader: (7)

So basically we would need 2 of this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SU...n%7cUpper+hose

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-390048/

Or that and use it for both.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-7789/
Or two of those

I will get them eventually. Need to sell some things first.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I think the 48" kit only come with 2 adaptors but we need 4 right ?

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I forgot to ask, do you happend to know what is the tranmission cooler kit that people buy for their supercharged 2k1 max ?

Thanks for your input I really appreciate your help.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

You want a large cooler, and since your are up north; you need a cooler that has a cold fluid bypass.


http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=3
Lol that might an overkill but I think streetz is using something similar.



But here is a bypass:
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=7

And here is a decent sized cooler:
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=2

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

I went with the largest cooling capacity one available at my local AutoZone. It's meant for things like RV's and full size trucks for towing. It's a bar and plate style and approximately 14"x12"x1". It came with all the necessary hardware and more than enough transmission line for the installation. Granted I'm using it on my '95, and you asked about 2k1 supercharged max's, but the sampe principles apply - more surface area and cooling capacity at high efficiency is all that really matters.

edit: The cooler Kev posted at the end of his post is basically the one I have.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Ok I see, I had lost trace of the link for the true-cool cooler and I couldn't remember the brand, thanks for the link.

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

I would recommend the cooler Kev posted. It's a much more efficient design (bar and plate versus tube and fin). Based on your approximate budget, I would recommend the kit Kev posted since you will need a bypass valve, or finding a kit that includes the lower cooler he listed.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

My car wont be driven in cold weather anymore so I guess I dont need a by pass valve ?