When I picked them up I was under the impression they where the wrong side but I couldn't find the reference pics I took before I removed the old bushing, I used a stock pics to compare but I might be wrong. I'm going to check this asap cuz the engine and A/T are hooked together and we wanted to drop the engine around 1:00 pm today. If they are the wrong side I can go to a local shop and press them out but I'm going to double check this.

I'm re-thinking about this and I'm sure the bushing has to face the driver side meaning only the front one will have to be pressed out. Thanks for letting me know, at least I can take care of it before we are ready to drop. Thanks a bunch man.

 

Here is a picture on how they should be positioned. The flat side of the insert should be facing the drivers side and the opening of the frame of the mount should be facing the radiator.

 

Thanks for the pics. My bad, 'll have the rear one press the good way. At least the engine is in the car, I removed the cross member so it will be easy to put back the engine mount once pressed the right way. lol

 

Engine & tranny is in the car now, I have pressed the ES bushing the right way this time, and everything fits like a glove. The UIM is installed as well, I will finish all the vacuum hose and wire before the week-end, I should be installing both axle tonight as well. At this point I need to order the SS exhaust pipe and mendrel bend, but I dont think I'll be able to work that before a week or two. For the first time in months I will have a full week-end to work on the car, my wife will spend the week-end with the kids in Ottawa visiting family. That will leave me 2 full days to finish as much as we can, my friend Louis will probably help me both days. I'll post a pic or two later this am.

I think it is reasonable to think that we should be able to crank the beast for the first time sometime in march.

 

So exciting! Pics please!

 

Hey guys, I just took 4 new pics, I hope you enjoy. Kyle might have the EU harness ready by next week.

 

WOW...that is one clean engine

 

Looks sick!! I attempted to read all the pages but just couldn't do it lol. Great Work!

 

wow, its so clean. i cant tell where the engine stops and where the engine bay starts lol.

 

Thanks for the compliment, I just hope the engine run as well as it look. Still a lots of work but the worst is behind me and hopefully I'll finish all the wiring and vacuum over the week-end.

 

Lookin good. EU tuning is easy. You have a wideband and boost sensor, correct?

 

OMFG, speechless................

the most beautiful engine bay iv seen on our car.

 

I've seen a lot of engine / car builds, but this is the most amazing build I've ever seen. You have really worked every detail of this engine compartment.

One day I'll have to do something like this, but for now I'll watch yours come together...

 

Well I have a LC1 wideband, EU, I still need some gage but I dont think I have a boost sensor, anything you can suggest ?

 

Sometime I pinch myself, just to make sure I'm not dreaming.Lol

 

I have put something like 3000 hrs of work that's not counting the chunk of money. I have dream to build this car after I saw Kevin's car back in the early 2000 - 2002.

 

All that hard work def seems worth it now man, it looks intense!

 

We are figuring out all the wiring and vacuum, while hoocking up the O2 sensor on the rear GEN II Cattman headers ( the one close to the fire wall ) I found out that the O2 bung tread doen't match the O2 sensor tread. The tread on the headers is bigger than the O2 sensor so now do I have to look for an O2 sensor that fit in the tread or do I have to find a O2 bung that is screw in type. ? I did a bit of search on the internet but didn't find anything conclusive. My max is a CA emission.

 

I got my map/boost sensor from ebay, here you go: http://cgi.ebay.com/Boost-Map-Sensor...#ht_2181wt_952

I used to have a GM Map sensor, but wasnt exacly the same voltage as the greddy one so the PSI was off. so I would have to tune via voltage and write down what v = psi, etc.. a mission. i just spent the money and got a read greey sensor and plugs right in

 

Just got in the house after a 14 hours day, to say I'm pretty exhausted but happy of the advancement & result. The wiring is almost completed and it was a PITA.

All the wires have been wrap with automotive black tape, grouped and tie wrap, I have also used wire loom for some of the wire. All the connectors have been cleaned
We have also worked on the vacuum hose, I'm using Russell SS hoses, but the Earl's clip dont fit on tight space, so I have to look for other options. I have spent a good time reading the FSM and finally found the diagram for the evap system, gee that's one thing I'm really happy to have found. Tomorrow I want to install both axle, the alternator, the tensioner bracket and the battery re-location kit in the trunck.

Time to go crash.

Ciao

AA

 

If you ever win at the lottery call me I'll make you a deal.lol

 

Thanks for the info, is there any way to buy it in USA or Canada ? I'm searching but cant seem to find it in USA ? Otherwise I'll get it from there.

 

Anyone have an answer for this ?

 

I would cut the bung off with your grinder and weld on the correct bung. Bungs are cheap and it will allow you to maintain the stock sensor.
BTW, that engine looks unreal.

 

Hey Bryan163, thanks for the answer, finally my friend will have a srew in type O2 bung custom made at the machine shop, because of the chromed headers we could not weld or cut.

Thanks for your input.

A+

 

Thanks man, I just ordered one.

 

I see there is only 3 x O2 bung on the headers, do I need to have another O2 bung weld for the 4th O2 sensor ? ( my max is cali spec ) I have a resistance that can be soldered but I would prefer to have the 4th O2 sensor where it should be, but what do I know about this ? It's the first set of headers I put on my maxima, so I have no clue what's the best solution.

 

Use an o2 simulator for the 2 precat o2's. They are NOT used in the tuning of the car. Those are prob the sensors that did not fit in the headers. Only use the 2 main sensors and for the pre cat o2's use o2 simulators. You will find many threads on this.

 

Hey Kevlo, so I need one O2 sim for the 2 pre-cat ? so I guess I have to wire them in serie ? Will I get rid of the cel if the secondary O2 sensor is ple ugged-in ?

I will be picking up the trottle body part at the chome shop later this week, that was the last part missing on the engine. Hopefully I'll be able to finish the battery relocation and the evap system within the next week. I'm ordering all the exhaust part tonight so it seem realistic to think I might be able to crank her in late march or early april.

 

They have o2 sims with 2 outs. Or you can buy 2. It will get rid of the secondary o2 codes

 

Ok thanks a bunch, I'm going to check if I have a single outs.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tallation.html

That might help

 

Absolutely, I just made a pdf of it.

A+

 

I finally got my throttle body parts back from the chrome shop, at some points I have tought they might have lost the parts but apparently someone put my parts in someone else order, the customer was honest and brought it back to the shop. I'm going to finish the installation of the TB tonight. Tomorrow it's will be both axle and the battery re-location hopefully sunday I could fix the evap box hoses. I still have to finish the SS Russell vacuum hose, I hope I can do all that stuff over the week-end. Then we will just have to do the exhaust set-up and that should take at least a long week-end. I'd really like to crank her this month, so let see if we can just do that.

 

I was wondering if anyone can post a clear pics of the 2k1 throttle body assembled, I have check in the FSM but the diagram is crap so i want to make sure my TB is correctly assembled.

Thanks

AA

 

Yesterday I tried to installed the left side axle but the axle wouldn't fully get inside the tranny so to speak, so I checked in the FSM and saw there is a special tool that Nissan use to replace the seal but also to align the axle. I can probably order those tools but I remember someone told me to hammer the end of the axle and it would go in, but before I fock up something, I wanted to hear what you guys have to say about that, beside putting a bit of oil on the axle is there any specific thing I have/must do in order to properly install the axle.

Thanks for any advice.

 

just give it a few taps with a hammer. it should slide in. just make sure the axle nut is on the end so you dont mess up the threads. nice build btw!

 

Thanks for the advice, I'm going to try the hammer in the next hour or so.

 

No prob!

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t=IMG_0317.jpg

This might help, I do not have it anymore but you get the idea.