Watch the vid again, the rear wheels arent moving at all, you can even see the snow built up in the spokes. The slush you see shooting out is because the rear wheels are being dragged across the street.

 

it can be done and has been done, here is a vid of a awd sentra ser, I have another of a awd altima also just got to look for it. there are alot of crazy swaps out there people just don't car to post about it.

btw there really is a twin turbo maxima in the tri-state area

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8bAariYtBw

 

WOW RWD RB26DETT IN A MAXIMA!! Start saving for speeding tickets, good luck with your build.

 

wow, someone is actually pulling through with this. good luck man.

oh, use photobucket's image code for forums when posting the pics!

 

here is vids of under the car and rear end up

 

 

i give u props for doing it i would have honestly bought another car to throw an RB into, im interesting in seeing how exactly that rear section is going to bolt up, u might have to do a massive amount of strengthening and bracing

 

if you notice the rear shocks had to be moved backed a bit to work correctly

 

Holy ****..you would never be able to tell that's a maxima from looking at it. Nice work, and damn that clearance between the exhaust and the driveshaft is tiny. What are you doing about the driveline movement to keep it from contacting?

 

There's a few things that concern me.

1. There is no crossmember other than the one that holds the steering rack, and the subframe is hacked. The only thing holding your car together at this point is the thin red bar. The engine torques left to right, so it's an issue. Since rwd cars have subframes, usually with the mounts attached, it's not a problem, but the front end definitely needs extra support.

2. The sway bar is mounted on the pivot point of the control arm. The mounting points should be static at all times, allowing the bar to do its work and move ever so slightly within the bushings. Also, are you using endlinks? I can't tell by the video. It looks like there's also a bracket that limits control arm travel, which can definitely decrease stability on bumps and turns.

3. The trans crossmember is cut a LOT to make room for the exhaust, and has bolts that have a lot of lateral stress on them. Most trans crossmembers have the bolts go it from bottom to top, not left to right, to ensure even weight distribution on the head of the bolt. If it's left to right, the top of the bolt will get all of the weight, and start to shear off with enough force.

4. The exhaust is very close to the steering rack and brake lines. Usually on RWD cars, the brake lines and exhaust are routed on opposite sides. Having them that close is a major liability and a fire hazard, since the ceramic line can easily crack with the abundant amount of heat coming from the downpipe. At the very least, wrap the downpipe with some insulating header wrap.

5. The exhaust is very close to the driveshaft. Even though the trans mount looks like it has no bushing, the engine mounts WILL flex, seing as how there's a lack of support, and depending on where it goes, the driveshaft will nick the exhaust and do other possible damage to the trans/diff. You can massage the trans tunnel for some extra room with a hammer, just for added security. You can also add a flex section to the engine portion of the exhaust, and bolt the rest straight into the car by fabbing brackets.

6. The bolt holding the engine onto the mount has a LOT of lateral stress, and considering it's such a small bolt, your engine can quite literally fall out of the car if pushed hard enough.

7. The rear subframe has a section where a piece of metal is bent around an exhaust hanger bracket, and the bolt looks tiny and fragile, definitely not a grade A automotive bolt, looks like one you can get at Home Depot. These rust pretty quickly, and aren't worth it in such an application.

Other than those things, it looks decent. I wish you luck, and I sincerely hope you work these issues out before you first drive the car or go wild in the streets, they are very serious.

Keep us updated!

 

OH TO THA SHI1!!! this is gonna be killer.

 

amazing... all that i can say lol

 

Thanks i will look at the list and correct them

 

wow this is gonna be insane congrats buddy

 

ahhhhhhh man... your in BK to... i gotta see this car in person when your done. GL with your build.

 

thanks guys but there is more to the car than the motor but it will be very fast

 

So far from what I have seen, the structural intergrity of the car has been compromised. The amount of chopping and cutting without any real 'strength' being put back into the car is worrying. I have a GTR and I know how much chassis twist they have when they start storming onto boost.

For example, axle tramp in the rear end will tear the current attachment points out, they need more than a 'strap' holding it on from the bottom, it needs to be welded to the chassis in a 3D bracket to stop lateral lift/drop from acceleration and braking then need to consider torque twist as well.

The block attachment points are welded to the thinest and weakest parts of the chassis, which will snap off first time it hits boost, resulting in the sump hitting the ground. Then, using a gas axe(cutting torch) on the chassis rails actually weakens them due to loosening the 'work hardening' that a box section piece of steel has. It REALLY needs a proper crossmember to work properly but

From my experience, it is just a small list of things that I would replace / modify /think through to make the car safer on the road, handle better and be as reliable as a stock skyline All fun and games actually fitting an RB26 but being able to drive it is a completely different scenario

Having been involved in RWD SR20DET swaps in the US GM Metro(our Suzuki Swift) I can say that you really need a crossmember at the VERY least to carry the weight and stop the front chassis from twisting up like spaghetti! Otherwise, it will drive like a crab as the front suspension twists and its hard to go fast when your trying to correct the steering...

 

as everyone saying , I give you props but I hope this output of the motor doesnt twist your car up, with all the hacking I dont see the support there , it would be wise to have them do a roll bar and strengthen the rear subframes somehow.

All in all you thought out of the box but would have been cheaper and easier to do a RB in a S13/14 like I have in the past or even the new motor swap VH in a s chassis

 

all the proplems will be sort out at the final stage this is just to see where things go and how they look as far as support i was talking to the guys and we know that there a a lot of work still be be done that's why i ask for some input eariler cause i know that there will be things that will be over looked

 

yo this is one sick project...nice work bro..

 

wait till its released on the streets of NY, release 07/29/10

 

Looks like us NY heads prove you guys wrong again huh? Oh wait now the motor might tear up the chassis so he doesnt get any props yet? Lmao you guys kill me.

Carry on..

 

Funny I see alot of people giving him props. And others giving him advise.

 

well stand still so the snipers can get a clear shot!!

 

u do realize how many n00b questions are asked about RBs fitting in maximas? U cant blame most of the people on here for being skeptical but still they shouldnt have come at him like that, but he is proving that he is going through the work to get it to fit, so the tone of this thread has changed dramatically, read through the thread not just the 1st page

 

well if it does I tried and fail than fail to try, WHAT HAVE YOU DONE ????

 

i cant believe the mods allow you to troll the forum after all these years

 

Don't worry

 

ok, so, after reading the entire thread, up till now, here is my thoughts / suggestions / questions :

1. an rb26dett in a 4th gen is a surprise to everyone, it would have been more surprising / awesome if you waited to create this thread til you had pics to back it up. I must now give props for getting this far...

2. I see alot of structural problem with the car, but I did see your post about how it's still in early stages of fit testing for the rear end, trans, motor etc etc... but, listen well to what these org members are telling you about this. I'd hate to see this project go kaputt on the first test ride...

3. where are you going to mount the master cylinder? I'd imagen it'd have to stay somewhere near the stock location for it to function properly. you must have brakes to slow that beast down once you get it going... and I don't see much room under the hood for one, but I could be wrong...

4. this is cool and all, and I know you got ALOT of time and $$ in it already, but here is the way I would of came up with a RWD RB26DETT 4th gen " maxima " ........ find a j30 of simialar year model (already rwd, not as much custom chassis / suspension work to do) custom fab 4th gen maxima body panels on it ( should be close enough in design to do it...), 4th gen front fascia / rear end etc etc, slap some maxima badges on it, THEN go for the rb swap. END RESULT: THE SAME, BUT WAY EASIER. IMO

good luck w/ the build!

 

well to answer your 3 question the motor is in the middle so there is a lot of space on both side all stock parts will be removed and replaced with aftermarket cylinder shape parts ie reserve tanks winshield wash and so on, believe me i am listening to what everyone has to say thats why I asked for input in one of my earlier post because i have not done this before so I need as much help as possible especially from throttlehappy46 because he said he has a gtr and know how much power they put out and what could happen if the structure of the car is not right. Believe me i will not drive this car if I know its not safe for me or anyone who is driving next to me I know better, just keep the advice coming and WE WILL GET THIS RIGHT, its my build but I can't do it without the help of you vets. I am just working with what I got

 

Uh, what have you done exactly besides living in NY?
Your always posting up crap about what "others have done or have" and acting as if your part of it, but what have you done yourself ? Pics of of your ride and your setup?

 

I think once its all fitted in place, the shop will address the structure issues. Its currently a work in progress which everyone needs to realize.
It doesnt make sense to start welding up braces and etc. to stiffen up the chassis to just to cut and remove them again if fitment issues arise which Im sure they will being this is learn as you go process.

 

he scrapes pigeon poo!!

 

hey guys check this out have any one of you did this i couldn't get the link but go to youtube and in the search type seafoam engine treatment is this good or bad

 

You'll never get a straight answer about seafoaming. Have you searched the org, or anywhere else? It's all the same, engine irrelevant.

Honestly it's rather scary that you're attempting an RB26 swap yet know nothing about seafoam.

 

FANTASTIC.

 

Many have and swear by it, I myself have done it years ago and didnt notice anything come from it, good or bad.





Correction, hes having the swap done for him. Hes not attemtping it. If and when it does get completed, keeping it running and maintained will be a whole other issue for him.

 

It's obviously cheaper/easier to do the swap into an S chassis car but that's why he's here. Because he wants to do it in a Maxima.

Good luck, keep updating! I'd like to see what you end up doing for wiring.

 

Interesting swap for sure.

As others have said chassis bracing is needed. Will you retrofit the front macpherson to work with the AWD or something different? The A32 front suspension sucks geometery wise. and what of the rear suspension? I would definitly try to make the rear suspension a custom IRS setup for sure.

Edit: I saw the vids and see what you did. Nice that the IRS fit without having to cut out the spare tire well.

Also I was wondering how much room there will be with the twin turbos by the steering rack and ABS if you have it. It's not a problem on RHD skylines. IIRC when they convert older GTRs to LHD they convert to a big single turbo to make room for the steering shaft and other parts.

 

well everything is staged and there is no touching of any of the parts as far as braceing there will be a cage in the car but the rest will be at the end when its all up in place these are all things that have been looked at and being worked on oh it will be rear wheel only