So you think the block is bad now? I dont get it...

if you think the heads are good, why wouldn't the block still be good, and the pistons and rods?


remember if you change your mind and pull those heads off, those new headgaskets you put on are trash now. If you change your mind and decide to stick with the 3.5 after the heads come off you need a new head gasket period.

 

when i say block might still be usable thats after a trip to the machine shop. get that thing back in spec, those were grinding&screeching noises coming from the motor, the heads shouldnt be effected but the block and rotating assembly.....yea.

 

depends Do you know where the screeching sound was coming from?

I had a very very bad screeching sound on my first turn of the key. ran for a min, stopped. ran again later for 2 min stopped. Drove up the street back.

pulled tranny to find a piece I shouldn't have put there. re-install screech gone, car ran like the peoples champ.

the block and rotating assembly wont make any noise unless the timing and such is off...which it would be due to that timing ring.


Dude... seriously... if your going to finish the swap or try to get the car up and running right. Fix that timing ring first before you worry about anything else.


I bough a vq35de with a blown head gasket. Swapped a new one in, arp head bolts, and main bolts, high rev valve springs all that. car ran like a beast. till I sold the motor to a friend who blew his.

 

the thing about it is it never made this sound before and it could hold idle and rev fine, now it makes the noises and dies. im honestly not going to pull off my tranny to find out the problem still exist, i would rather shoot myself.

 

it just all boils down to if you want to finish the car or not. I'm not sure how bad you think it is but pulling the tranny is a 45 min job tops. Even on the un even surface you posted. Lay a flat piece of card board and go to work.

you under there for a short period anyway, just to drain fluids, un bolt cross member, un bolt pass axle, linkage, then to pull out the tranny.

its up to you dude... all the info you need to fix your car is here...just decide if you actually want to fix it. This is what comes with the territory of swapping, a lot of us had problems and didnt feel like doing a lot, but we wanted to see the project the whole way thru and cursed and persisted to enjoy the glorious days after to be able to say I did this, its done, and it works and have something unique out on the road.

make your decision.

 

im done and sick of it, i cant stand having my car down for so long, and this obviously isnt really working for me so it might be a better idea to move on. Dont let ambition turn into stupidity.

 

So whats next a regular 3.0 or a DEK?

 

probably check out the rods and crank on this 3.5, take them to the shop make sure they are in spec and use them in a 3.0 with an 00vi, thats probably next. im goign to try starting this 3.5 one more time when i get back from the beach, if it still sounds like bobo, then start to get it ready to be yanked out.

 

*cough.... sentra.. *cough... cough...

 

you are really this hard headed? it will sound like crap cause of that timing ring. regardless if it sounded kinda better before and got worse now. Still.


Dude you should go with a 3.0 or a dek. cause trying to mix the crank and rods froma 3.5 witha 3.0 will be much more challenging than a 3.5 swap. So seriously if you couldnt pull the 3.5 swap off it wil be even harder to pull of a hybrid motor with heads and block crank etc. Only person to have done it was Tilley and he was the god father of the 3.5 swap. No one else has done it. If you were to try I feel it would be a case of ambition that will eventually turn into stupidity...

keep it simple... 3.0 or a DEK either one you dont have to mess with heads and blocks etc...

cause if you said your MOm is tired of you workin on the car and its still not working, what will she say when its down for another 4 months getting this build done?

Take a couple of days drop a DEK in and call it a day.

 

I have found another timing ring, wtf? u think im going to reuse the same one? I thought i said that in the other thread. And where did my mom come from? Its my car, why would my mom care about my car?

My thing is i cant do all this work with out moving forward, and since the car never moved from the normal 3.0 its taking a step forward from the 3.0. and from reading the thread on the 3.5 internals in the 3.0 its drop in, its still just a thought i haven said im going for it, but if i do the only thing used from the 3.5 will be cams rod and crank everything else such as fuel what im having so many issues with will be from a 3.0.

 

you were talking about starting the car up tomorrow to see if it runs better, or has a different sound. Unless you're going to swap that timing ring too then you shouldn't expect a good result is what I'm saying.

sounds like your avoiding swapping that timing ring, when that is the most crucial thing you need to do.


and didnt you say further up in this post about your Mom something...I'd have to scroll back... Jeff responded to it with a "how old are you?"

 

never mind... I see now.,..Jeff "fixed" your quote to add Mom in it.... never mind...


damn Jeff....

 

jeffafafafa changed it from reading "by mon." to "by mom"

 

Grinding noises dont come from timing rings, thats just a fact. it was that same timing ring my car first started on, ran on, i was able to drive a couple of places on, it was jerky but the car worked, Grinding noises and then a non responsive engine? Thats just not the timing ring, im in the process of buying another timing ring right now because i know it needs to be replaced but thats secondary to what happened yesterday.

 

no timing rings dont make noises, I never said they did... but that bad ring can be the cause of the jerkyness and maybe other symptoms...

all i'm saying is you cant say for sure what is being caused by that bad timing ring and what isn't. if your keeping the motor. Swap that ring then start from there and see what problems are still there.

If not then swap rings when you drop whatever new motor in

 

PM me if you wanna get rid of those cam adapters...

 

+1 Fix the timing ring then go from there.

 

crusher finish what you started...seriously.

Don't ****ing can this engine or I will never ever let you live it down. DO what deezy said to do.

 

I dont have anymore money to put into this motor OR patience, it will need a full rebuild, think about this, u can feel the vibrations through the car, and a Grinding/screeching noise coming from the motor, i had the throttle wide open when starting the car it didnt rev about 1000rpm and then died. im sry but that motor is done.

See the things u guys dont see is how much time i put into working on that car, I put a lot more time and effort into it then most of u realize because u refuse to believe what i say and just go on about ur stupid jokes, U wanna know how many times i re-did the timing on that 3.5? Do u wanna know how much effort i put into cleaning that motor? U wanna know how many times i redid the fuel setup? Deezy is talking about the timing ring, wtf does the timing ring have to do with grinding and screeching?

Currently that motor to me is $$$, it will be parted out and im going to move on to something else, try something new. Maybe one day when i have more time and money i will try again but right now, i dont and im going to need my car.

 

mother f**ker are you serious?? are you serious!?!! If so... you are right to abandon the swap. Regardless of what we say, if you're done then your done, so lock up this thread and time to move it on...

 

Wow theres alot of wrong going on here

 

A stock flywheel is cheap.

Based on what? Low compression? Pieces of metal in the oil pan?

LOL, a full rebuild will not fix your problem. The crank sensor reading the flywheel correctly is absolutely critical to the proper operation of your engine. Chipped teeth means misfiring and timing issues.

Engines don't make grinding and screeching sounds if properly lubricated.

Again, the two crank sensors and the cam sensor are absolutely critical to the proper operation of your engine. A chipped flywheel doesn't give a proper reading.

Maybe you should listen to what people say here instead of doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result. That's Einstein's definition of insanity.

Nothing, but I doubt you used a mechanics stethoscope to troubleshoot the grinding and screeching. I doubt you removed the serpentine belt too.

3.5 heads, block, and other parts aren't worth $$$

 

Yes i was dead serious.

 

Thank you... I'm glad someone else is seeing this how I am...

 

I have so much money i have spent on this swap, some of it unnecessary.


And i have said i dont know how many times already i am right now in the process of buying a timing ring, I know what the timing ring does. remember i had no ignition with out a reading. the car started and ran on a timing ring with 4 chipped teeth, i know i have to fix that to fix the jerkiness. I was impatient at the time and just threw everything together to see if the car would even start.


it sounded pretty bad on start up that was no belt squeak, i just dont have the money to start buying more stuff for this thing, the way im looking at it is i took a gamble when buying this motor, it cost me $150, it had 85K on it with a blown headgasket, thats pretty much the most that i knew, when i took it apart it looked like both sides of the motor had leaking HGs.


so unless u have something else u think i should look at besides the timing ring then i will listen, im saying i doubt its the timing ring that is causing these grinding noises, im not saying that its not the timing ring so im not replacing it. just if i pull this tranny off this motor and put it back on and its still giving me **** im going to strap C4 to myself and jump off building.

 

crusher...seriously, this isn't even funny anymore. all of your questions have been answered and suggestions given. Now its time for you to actually do work on your car and see what results occur. We have said all we can say, you just have to put some actual work in.

And pulling the tranny compare to the whole swap is cake, this is what comes with the territory of doing the swap, doing what is needed to finish, or to fix something. You half *** a few things and now you have to go back as a result of it. Stop *****ing and do some work on the car.

 

I think it's time to lock this thread. I mean ****, we spend like two pages telling him to do something and he hems, haws, argues, and finally does something.

What's the point of all this? I don't know why any of us are helping him anymore.

****, what do I know? After all, I busted a couple of valves in doing the swap. I was scammed and bought the crappy ebay FPR and suffered through that until I put the 4th gen one back on. I suffered through the pain of starting issues due to crank sensors and grounding issues.

Why should he listen to us? What do we know?

 

I say lock it up. Crusher is cool to me but he's killin my nerves with this, all the info he needs is already in the several write up floating out there, plus its in his thread here, we cant do anything else for him short of going to his house and doing the work.

I remember when you bent your valve springs... i still I still have that pic saved..

I went thru re-doing timing with the motor in the car (that was a pain in the assss) pulling tranny back off, adjusting that sensitive **** tps sensor till it was in spec and almost perfect etc..

Lock it Ben

 

im not laughing.

this is what im going to do, first im going to say **** dave, when the timing ring gets here, im going to install it, if the car works than u guys were right whatever, if it doesnt and i hear that damn grinding and screeching again, then i will politely ask u to get off my d1ck and leave my decision about getting rid of the 3.5 alone, because at that point i think u guys can agree it is justifiable. Can we agree to that? Because i dont need to see something about what happened to this car in every thread i post in I KNOW its MY CAR. I get enough **** about this car and frankly quite a few of people who are giving me **** arent even close to the level of modification i am at.

 

you dont have to do nothing to try and please us. we are just trying to help. We really dont give a shiit what you do or what motor you use, Our cars are running just fine, but we can see that its a simple fix to get your car going, but hey if you cant then you cant and maybe its not meant to be, so in the end, don't worry about us Do what you want for your car.

Just dont biitch about wanting answers when they've been here the whole time.

 

im not mad at u i know u have been doing nothing but trying to help and i appreciate it, but im fed up with this car, and the here is the thing that is going to annoy me the most, and u will know exactly who im talking about, but those naggin *****(im not talking about dave but i am lol) that do nothing except criticize and when u look at their cars, they are either stock, or damn close to stock and have the audacity to say something about me for actually trying something and wanting to be different?

so what im doing is just saying that ahead of time incase what i think is going to happen, happens. Not to prove u or Ben who was the one that pointed out the CKPS to get the car started in the first place, but for those that will have something to say when they are clueless on what they are saying.

in short im preparing myself incase the worst happens.

 

for the doubters i uploaded a vid of my car running, its from a sh1tty cell phone, im going to try replacing the timing ring and i think a little water might have got in the crankcase causing the fail noises, so oil being changed and making sure this doesnt happen again, going to give it another shot once i get the timing ring on and the oil changed:

 

LOL, how would water get in the crankcase? Water in small quantities won't hurt the oil. In fact, there's always a little bit of water in the oil because one of the by-products of hydrocarbon combustion is water.

If there's large quantities of water in the oil, then your oil will look like chocolate milk.

Changing the oil isn't going to fix the rattling noise. Might as well change the spark plugs, lol. With all the time you've been hemming and hawing and avoiding doing anything, you could have dropped the tranny and fixed the timing ring.

 

how water got in there i dont want to discuss, it was pretty stupid of me thou, i will admit thats the first thing i really did where i didnt use much of any logic

but yea i think because of how rich this thing has been running the plugs are most likely fouled so im just going to change them aswell. And actually i have already ordered the timing ring, and all the time i was posting and arguing i was already in the process of buying another timing ring because regardless of what happened i would need it.

currently im just waiting for the timing ring to get here, then im going to replace it and change the oil and spark plugs and go from there.

 

if you had a wideband you'd know how rich it was running

 

ur right, i think i will drive down to ur house and help myself to urs.....

 

grant u like my idle?

 

not as much as i like my revs

 

Changing the timing ring, spark plugs, and oil tomorrow, is there anything else that some one can think of that i should do or check to get this car running. It idles rough, and doesnt want to rev freely.