Altima eBay Headers installed (Hotshot knockoff?)
#84
Thanks guys. I'm also looking into coating the headers with one of these: http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/ or http://www.ebay.com/itm/370730995856
Right behind the flex is a Vibrant 3" ultra quiet resonator. I'm looking forward to see how this affects the drone zone.
Right behind the flex is a Vibrant 3" ultra quiet resonator. I'm looking forward to see how this affects the drone zone.
#87
Finally!!!! somebody else who's not cheap and actually using v-band flanges on their headers
love not having to change gaskets/re-rtv the 3-bolt flanges every 3 months.
I totally approve, and looking forward to that quiet resonator too.
#88
@schmellyfart, was wondering, I'm limited in my knowledge of header theory so bare with me. We all know the 3" catback makes more power, however i guess you're basically making a stepped header to meet your 3" catback, was wondering though......what do you think about the following?
just as how you used the 2.25" pipes for the "y", my theory suggests each pipe from primary is stepped 1/8th at a time so three primary 1.75"/(1 6/8) pipes when stepped merges to (2 1/8 i.e. 1 6/8 + 3/8) however the common pipe one size up is 2 1/4(2 2/8) so thats satisfactory, for two (2 1/4) pipes to merge and maintain velocity it would step up by 2/8 so it would be 2 4/8 or 2.5. that would be a upgraded choke without having a drastic shift in exhaust volume and velocity meaning going directly to 3". so right from the 2-1 merge a 2.5" to 3" transition cone could be used.
so its not to knock your setup but just a silly whymsical thought that i had.
meaning i see cattman's with exhaust cutout put down numbers and they have a 2.5 choke/final merge of two pipes before catback
just as how you used the 2.25" pipes for the "y", my theory suggests each pipe from primary is stepped 1/8th at a time so three primary 1.75"/(1 6/8) pipes when stepped merges to (2 1/8 i.e. 1 6/8 + 3/8) however the common pipe one size up is 2 1/4(2 2/8) so thats satisfactory, for two (2 1/4) pipes to merge and maintain velocity it would step up by 2/8 so it would be 2 4/8 or 2.5. that would be a upgraded choke without having a drastic shift in exhaust volume and velocity meaning going directly to 3". so right from the 2-1 merge a 2.5" to 3" transition cone could be used.
so its not to knock your setup but just a silly whymsical thought that i had.
meaning i see cattman's with exhaust cutout put down numbers and they have a 2.5 choke/final merge of two pipes before catback
#90
@schmellyfart, was wondering, I'm limited in my knowledge of header theory so bare with me. We all know the 3" catback makes more power, however i guess you're basically making a stepped header to meet your 3" catback, was wondering though......what do you think about the following?
just as how you used the 2.25" pipes for the "y", my theory suggests each pipe from primary is stepped 1/8th at a time so three primary 1.75"/(1 6/8) pipes when stepped merges to (2 1/8 i.e. 1 6/8 + 3/8) however the common pipe one size up is 2 1/4(2 2/8) so thats satisfactory, for two (2 1/4) pipes to merge and maintain velocity it would step up by 2/8 so it would be 2 4/8 or 2.5. that would be a upgraded choke without having a drastic shift in exhaust volume and velocity meaning going directly to 3". so right from the 2-1 merge a 2.5" to 3" transition cone could be used.
so its not to knock your setup but just a silly whymsical thought that i had.
meaning i see cattman's with exhaust cutout put down numbers and they have a 2.5 choke/final merge of two pipes before catback
just as how you used the 2.25" pipes for the "y", my theory suggests each pipe from primary is stepped 1/8th at a time so three primary 1.75"/(1 6/8) pipes when stepped merges to (2 1/8 i.e. 1 6/8 + 3/8) however the common pipe one size up is 2 1/4(2 2/8) so thats satisfactory, for two (2 1/4) pipes to merge and maintain velocity it would step up by 2/8 so it would be 2 4/8 or 2.5. that would be a upgraded choke without having a drastic shift in exhaust volume and velocity meaning going directly to 3". so right from the 2-1 merge a 2.5" to 3" transition cone could be used.
so its not to knock your setup but just a silly whymsical thought that i had.
meaning i see cattman's with exhaust cutout put down numbers and they have a 2.5 choke/final merge of two pipes before catback
I would have to use a different merge collector in order to retain the vibrant resonator, and I've become quite fond of this flowmaster merge.
Thanks, I thought the 3.0 oil pan had to be used with the swap due to clearance issues with a crank sensor?
#93
I know the guides say that but I for sure ran the 3.5 upper with a 3.0 CPS. The 3.5 CPS hole is larger and the 3.0 sensor had play to clock a few degrees either way before you tightened down the 10mm. If the sensor was clocked wrong or loose, it would intermittent hard start. But with the sensor where it should, no problems. This was with a '03 auto max 3.5 upper oil pan.
#95
I have hotshot headers on mine (anyone else still have Hotshots??), I never liked the 3.5L lower drain spot, so i reused my 3.0L lower oil pan with 3.5L swap. (i did use the 4AT 3.5L upper oil pan and spliced in the 3.5L CPS to the 3.0L sub harness, I did not use the 3.5L 'oil cooler' since it's more like an oil warmer if anything -- using 200* coolant to cool the engine oil?? no thanks.. with the oil warmer it doesn't clear traction bars [anyone here use traction bars?])
I don't even take off the tire when changing oil, just drive onto a curb with the pass front tire and i have all the clearance i need
Last edited by vipervadim; 02-05-2013 at 01:19 PM.
#96
More pics I removed the cat 'section' so this bolts straight to the catback.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/8448795121/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/8448795117/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/8449879752/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/8448795121/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/8448795117/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/8449879752/
#100
#102
#104
eBay
Altima headers: $135 (they are now about $220 on eBay)
SS o2 bung: $8
Mandrel Bending Solutions 2x 2.25" SS Vband clamp & flanges: $84 shipped
Amazon
Vibrant 3" Ultra Quiet resonator: $94.80 ( I only paid 67.91 after rewards points)
Flowmaster Merge Y214300S: $53.99 ( I got it for free after rewards points)
SiliconeIntakes.com
2 x 2' Extra Thick Stainless Steel 180° Bend, 2.25" (SIL001637) = $47.98
1 x 3.0" Stainless Steel Exhaust/Intake Flex Section - 6" Long (EXH000868) = $17.99
+ $18 shipping
My Total: $378.87
I see what you're talking about now. I'll try it out next time I build a y pipe.
Last edited by schmellyfart; 02-06-2013 at 08:26 AM.
#105
#107
#111
Cattman headers that have the skid plate are really bad with the 3.5L lower oil pan. The location of the 3.5L drain plug drains the oil right onto the skidplate (hot headers + engine oil = bad smelly combo)
I have hotshot headers on mine (anyone else still have Hotshots??), I never liked the 3.5L lower drain spot, so i reused my 3.0L lower oil pan with 3.5L swap. (i did use the 4AT 3.5L upper oil pan and spliced in the 3.5L CPS to the 3.0L sub harness, I did not use the 3.5L 'oil cooler' since it's more like an oil warmer if anything -- using 200* coolant to cool the engine oil?? no thanks.. with the oil warmer it doesn't clear traction bars [anyone here use traction bars?])
I don't even take off the tire when changing oil, just drive onto a curb with the pass front tire and i have all the clearance i need
I have hotshot headers on mine (anyone else still have Hotshots??), I never liked the 3.5L lower drain spot, so i reused my 3.0L lower oil pan with 3.5L swap. (i did use the 4AT 3.5L upper oil pan and spliced in the 3.5L CPS to the 3.0L sub harness, I did not use the 3.5L 'oil cooler' since it's more like an oil warmer if anything -- using 200* coolant to cool the engine oil?? no thanks.. with the oil warmer it doesn't clear traction bars [anyone here use traction bars?])
I don't even take off the tire when changing oil, just drive onto a curb with the pass front tire and i have all the clearance i need
schmelly that y looks fantastic, did my hot shot measurements help at all? It's not fully equal but better sounding than it just going straight into the collector like bolt on y pipes.
When you get time grab a nice cam and make a nice video, sounds pretty mean though
#115
well, after all these compelling arguments and some nice sounds scmelly i'm sticking to another warpspeed y cause i don't have a shop around here that can do all that and money's tight. i would however like to do a different cattback and was wondering what you have cause i really did'nt read all the data you posted. it's early and i'm tired so i was thinkin about a flowmaster 40 with the monza resonator and b pipe i already have, thoughts? seen some vids, sounds ok to me.
#116
well, after all these compelling arguments and some nice sounds scmelly i'm sticking to another warpspeed y cause i don't have a shop around here that can do all that and money's tight. i would however like to do a different cattback and was wondering what you have cause i really did'nt read all the data you posted. it's early and i'm tired so i was thinkin about a flowmaster 40 with the monza resonator and b pipe i already have, thoughts? seen some vids, sounds ok to me.
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