Aackshun's VQ35DE Swap Plans...
11-08-2011, 01:49 PM
#241
we can all dream, but when you blow your motor earlier than you wanted to, reality hits and you gotta do what you gotta do.I am still VERY confused on the piston clearance issue.
The HR Pistons have clearance issues in a DE block w/ a DE crank yet....
In Rod Length: DE = HR = 09 Maxima
Piston Height: DE > HR > 09
Deck Height: 09 > HR = DE
Crankshaft radius: HR = 09 > DE
*EDIT* THIS IS ALL WRONG, I CAN'T READ FSMS. I AM A N00B, kthx.
As it seems.... This is probably one of those things I will find out the hard way, we'll see if I will be uh dismantling uh motor Sunday....
Last edited by aackshun; 11-08-2011 at 07:06 PM.
11-08-2011, 01:55 PM
#242
we can all dream, but when you blow your motor earlier than you wanted to, reality hits and you gotta do what you gotta do.I am still VERY confused on the piston clearance issue.
The HR Pistons have clearance issues in a DE block w/ a DE crank yet....
In Rod Length: DE = HR = 09 Maxima
Piston Height: DE > HR > 09
Deck Height: 09 > HR = DE
Crankshaft radius: HR = 09 > DE
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...hout-mods.html
??
11-08-2011, 02:04 PM
#243
According to the FSM that should NOT be happening... With a smaller crank radius, shorter piston, same deck height, same rods... Shouldn't you loose compression and gain clearance?
11-08-2011, 02:12 PM
#244
Oh ok idk man. Im good at some stuff, def not a engine builder tho.
11-08-2011, 02:32 PM
#245
Me neither :/ this is my first non arm-chair attempt.
I'm going to dismantle both of the motors this weekend, we'll find out first hand why these motors are here and to see if I can make a salvage ghetto build for 260whp.
I'm going to dismantle both of the motors this weekend, we'll find out first hand why these motors are here and to see if I can make a salvage ghetto build for 260whp.
11-08-2011, 02:34 PM
#246
btw...
11-08-2011, 05:47 PM
#248
Also, the FSM only gives the measurement from the base of the skirt to the crown, it doesn't tell you the distance from the centre of the pin to the crown, which matters if interchanging between rods of the same length.
11-08-2011, 07:01 PM
#249
After some more thought this is what I have in my head for some ghetto fabulous powah:
02 VQ35DE Block
09 Pistons (Still a strong maybe, depends on what happened to the motor)
Z33 IM + Custom Elbow for a Q45 TB (Don't have a 02VI to use, but plenty o' Z manifolds)
5/8th Plenum Spacer
NWP Economy Spacers
Z33 Injectors
3.0L Timing + Cam Adapturz
The "Aackshun" Tuning Solution
That's it.... mated w/ my current tranny and exhaust, lolz will be had, and this is all going to be done for under $700
The same reasons a piston that is 2.2mm 'shorter' overall can have a higher CR in the same block/head. The shape is different.
Also, the FSM only gives the measurement from the base of the skirt to the crown, it doesn't tell you the distance from the centre of the pin to the crown, which matters if interchanging between rods of the same length.
Also, the FSM only gives the measurement from the base of the skirt to the crown, it doesn't tell you the distance from the centre of the pin to the crown, which matters if interchanging between rods of the same length.
I learned this while talking to the Maxima Mechanic in town, he broke it down to essentially everything I said was just not accurate at all and the FSM gives no idea to what the pistons, deck height, rod length really is in the VQ's
Last edited by aackshun; 11-08-2011 at 07:19 PM.
11-08-2011, 07:26 PM
#250
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 119
well...according to wikipedia :
The new engine block retains the same bore and stroke, but the connecting rods were lengthened and the block deck was raised by 8.4 mm to reduce piston side-loads. This modification, along with the use of larger crank bearings with main bearing caps reinforced by a rigid ladder-type main cap girdle to allow the engine reliably rev to 7500 rpm.
from what i remember (i'm more of a RWD VQ guy) the HR's deck heigth is more like the VQ40's(has a much bigger stroke) that's the reason you can't put an HR or VQ40 with a DE tranny
The new engine block retains the same bore and stroke, but the connecting rods were lengthened and the block deck was raised by 8.4 mm to reduce piston side-loads. This modification, along with the use of larger crank bearings with main bearing caps reinforced by a rigid ladder-type main cap girdle to allow the engine reliably rev to 7500 rpm.
from what i remember (i'm more of a RWD VQ guy) the HR's deck heigth is more like the VQ40's(has a much bigger stroke) that's the reason you can't put an HR or VQ40 with a DE tranny
11-08-2011, 08:46 PM
#251
when did i become "The Maxima Mechanic"?
11-09-2011, 06:49 AM
#253
I'll donate a new set of StephenMax's cam adapters.... gimme mailing address. Also have a couple of Q45 TBs... did you know that they mike out at 80mm ID, not 90mm? Unless my Harbor Freight digital micrometer has a low battery again.
Have you considered ARP rod bolts, HR head gaskets and bolts, and modding the block for better water flow because of the HR gaskets?
Have you considered ARP rod bolts, HR head gaskets and bolts, and modding the block for better water flow because of the HR gaskets?
Last edited by grey99max; 11-09-2011 at 06:52 AM.
11-09-2011, 08:50 AM
#255
WAKE UP, WAKE UP, YOU'RE DREAMING!
We're in discussion already.
You. Are. Da. Man.
I've considered it, but this is a super ghetto budget backyard junkyard parts build, it was part of my original VQ35 build plan before I revamped it to the altima build.
Pshhhhhhhhhh
Thanks, this is all pending a compression test and visual inspection which is about to go down in an hour
//Edit:
Ok, any tips on discovering what could be an oil burner???
Also I did find a FWD manifold in stock.... I think I am sticking w/ teh Z manifold for simplicity, easy for me to have cut and welded the elbow for whatever the **** I want (Q45 TB)
We're in discussion already.
I'll donate a new set of StephenMax's cam adapters.... gimme mailing address. Also have a couple of Q45 TBs... did you know that they mike out at 80mm ID, not 90mm? Unless my Harbor Freight digital micrometer has a low battery again.
Have you considered ARP rod bolts, HR head gaskets and bolts, and modding the block for better water flow because of the HR gaskets?
Have you considered ARP rod bolts, HR head gaskets and bolts, and modding the block for better water flow because of the HR gaskets?
I've considered it, but this is a super ghetto budget backyard junkyard parts build, it was part of my original VQ35 build plan before I revamped it to the altima build.
Thanks, this is all pending a compression test and visual inspection which is about to go down in an hour
//Edit:
Ok, any tips on discovering what could be an oil burner???
Also I did find a FWD manifold in stock.... I think I am sticking w/ teh Z manifold for simplicity, easy for me to have cut and welded the elbow for whatever the **** I want (Q45 TB)
Last edited by aackshun; 11-09-2011 at 01:58 PM.
11-09-2011, 06:24 PM
#256
One trick is: if you have the heads off, coat the cylinders in grease and rotate the crank - if there are sealing problems/cylinder wall pitting - there will be little portions of grease that aren't 'swept' up by the rings.
Otherwise, in a perfect world you can perform a leakdown - or even just compare the carbon buildup on the the valves/head ports with a flashlight (oil in the U/L IM will be an earlier sign). If you have the oil pan off, from the bottom - locate the line where the rings 'stop' sweeping the cylinder wall, you'll see the point where the untouched crosshatch pattern meets the point where the rings touch the walls. You have limited access, but with a flashlight you can see whats left of the crosshatch where the ring does make contact. Compare how 'smooth' or 'crosshatched' each wall is, they should be fairly similar, but if 1 or 2 cylinders are completely smooth, or one side of a wall is extremely smooth and the corresponding other is fairly crosshatched, its a sign something is up (ie - the cylinder is an 'oval').
Otherwise, in a perfect world you can perform a leakdown - or even just compare the carbon buildup on the the valves/head ports with a flashlight (oil in the U/L IM will be an earlier sign). If you have the oil pan off, from the bottom - locate the line where the rings 'stop' sweeping the cylinder wall, you'll see the point where the untouched crosshatch pattern meets the point where the rings touch the walls. You have limited access, but with a flashlight you can see whats left of the crosshatch where the ring does make contact. Compare how 'smooth' or 'crosshatched' each wall is, they should be fairly similar, but if 1 or 2 cylinders are completely smooth, or one side of a wall is extremely smooth and the corresponding other is fairly crosshatched, its a sign something is up (ie - the cylinder is an 'oval').
11-09-2011, 08:57 PM
#257
One trick is: if you have the heads off, coat the cylinders in grease and rotate the crank - if there are sealing problems/cylinder wall pitting - there will be little portions of grease that aren't 'swept' up by the rings.
Otherwise, in a perfect world you can perform a leakdown - or even just compare the carbon buildup on the the valves/head ports with a flashlight (oil in the U/L IM will be an earlier sign). If you have the oil pan off, from the bottom - locate the line where the rings 'stop' sweeping the cylinder wall, you'll see the point where the untouched crosshatch pattern meets the point where the rings touch the walls. You have limited access, but with a flashlight you can see whats left of the crosshatch where the ring does make contact. Compare how 'smooth' or 'crosshatched' each wall is, they should be fairly similar, but if 1 or 2 cylinders are completely smooth, or one side of a wall is extremely smooth and the corresponding other is fairly crosshatched, its a sign something is up (ie - the cylinder is an 'oval').
Otherwise, in a perfect world you can perform a leakdown - or even just compare the carbon buildup on the the valves/head ports with a flashlight (oil in the U/L IM will be an earlier sign). If you have the oil pan off, from the bottom - locate the line where the rings 'stop' sweeping the cylinder wall, you'll see the point where the untouched crosshatch pattern meets the point where the rings touch the walls. You have limited access, but with a flashlight you can see whats left of the crosshatch where the ring does make contact. Compare how 'smooth' or 'crosshatched' each wall is, they should be fairly similar, but if 1 or 2 cylinders are completely smooth, or one side of a wall is extremely smooth and the corresponding other is fairly crosshatched, its a sign something is up (ie - the cylinder is an 'oval').
But this is some really helpful info!!! Thanks a lot!
11-17-2011, 06:23 AM
#259
Trying to figure out what's the cheapest option for a VQ35... I have a few, just crunching #'s, in the mean time my car sits in the garage, this weekend I'm taking it apart though.
Oh and the core VQ35 we have here... Threw a rod, and the motor ceased, so it's only good for a full build.
Oh and the core VQ35 we have here... Threw a rod, and the motor ceased, so it's only good for a full build.
Last edited by aackshun; 11-17-2011 at 06:31 AM.
11-19-2011, 05:41 PM
#262
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 119
another needed part would be a q45 MAF with 3.5 intake piping to go with that q45 throttle body,...the result would be unrestricted airflow atleast until the IM's elbow ,....i plan on doing the same on a Z33 intake manifold but with a 3.5 elbow
11-20-2011, 04:45 PM
#263
And the BBMAF is already taken care of also
I'm pretty sure I'm going to have terrible cold starts and bad idling, but whenever people ask I can give them the appropriate answer... because race car.
Last edited by aackshun; 11-20-2011 at 04:48 PM.
11-20-2011, 05:02 PM
#264
goodluck man
11-28-2011, 10:38 AM
#271
So...
Problem?
Next ting...
If one runs a BBMAF on my old skool 3.0 electronics... Could you use a VAFC (or whatever you call that damned thing) to make the correctiions? My car was NOT happy @ idle during the BBMAF test trials, but due to my richness it ran perfectly fine while driving... just @ idle it sounded like a Cammed SBC, which is awesome... at times... but I know I will find it extremely annoying eventually.
As much as I hate to have these silly things on my car... I may need it to get my car to idle correctly...
Problem?
Next ting...
If one runs a BBMAF on my old skool 3.0 electronics... Could you use a VAFC (or whatever you call that damned thing) to make the correctiions? My car was NOT happy @ idle during the BBMAF test trials, but due to my richness it ran perfectly fine while driving... just @ idle it sounded like a Cammed SBC, which is awesome... at times... but I know I will find it extremely annoying eventually.
As much as I hate to have these silly things on my car... I may need it to get my car to idle correctly...
Last edited by aackshun; 11-28-2011 at 10:53 AM.
11-28-2011, 12:16 PM
#274
11-29-2011, 12:20 AM
#275
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 119
you will instal both for testing but the S-AFC,will need to stay there to keep the settings,what BBmaf are you running? q45??? and you'r on FWD vq35 injectors right?.----i want to instal my q45 maf on vq30 electronics with DE-K injectors...any impressions on how it drives after BBmaf??? better top end? more responsive? more low end?
sorry to bother you with questions but i'm eager to find how does a 3.5" intake and maf react on VQ30 electronics
sorry to bother you with questions but i'm eager to find how does a 3.5" intake and maf react on VQ30 electronics
11-29-2011, 06:20 AM
#276
you will instal both for testing but the S-AFC,will need to stay there to keep the settings,what BBmaf are you running? q45??? and you'r on FWD vq35 injectors right?.----i want to instal my q45 maf on vq30 electronics with DE-K injectors...any impressions on how it drives after BBmaf??? better top end? more responsive? more low end?
sorry to bother you with questions but i'm eager to find how does a 3.5" intake and maf react on VQ30 electronics
sorry to bother you with questions but i'm eager to find how does a 3.5" intake and maf react on VQ30 electronics
If it starts, runs, idles, I will not use the SAFC
Uhhh Home Depot/Grey99max BBMaf
No it'll be Z injectors.
And I tested a 3" maf on my VQ30, rough idle, but throttle response and low end was improved were the most noticeable things. Probably a bump in power overall, but this is all butt dyno results.
Edit, did some more research on the TB I have it's 80MM not 90 like I thought, so my intake piping and maf will all be 3 inches not 3.5.
Last edited by aackshun; 11-29-2011 at 07:55 AM.
11-29-2011, 10:11 AM
#278
11-29-2011, 11:54 AM
#280
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 119
DE-K injectors are supposed to be z33 injectors at a lower fuel pressure ,...so combining a BBMAF with bigger injectors (not that big) ..will need only a slight tune with an SAFC to get perfect AFR's
so that means that :for guys doing a 00VI with lower IM should also upgrade to a BBMAF and would get really good gains and will only need to adjust AFR's a little to get them perfect
so that means that :for guys doing a 00VI with lower IM should also upgrade to a BBMAF and would get really good gains and will only need to adjust AFR's a little to get them perfect
Last edited by shrek; 11-29-2011 at 11:57 AM.