Cold cathode lights ARE NOT neon!!!

 

that's why I ignored his msg.

Not only that, they are 3x brighter.

 

Cold Cathode tubes contain a rarefied inert gas (e.g. neon), and electrons are emitted in an avalanche from the unheated cathode when the voltage between the anode and cathode reaches a high enough value. The flowing current excites the gas inside and produces a glow - this is the way that the small neon mains indicator lamps work. A relatively small voltage on a control grid between the anode and cathode has a great effect on whether a current of electrons flows or not and can switch it on and off.

Got that off some page discussing 50 year old calculator technology. Not exactly new stuff. Difference between that and a vacuum tube is that in a vacuum you need to add heat to the cathode to get the electrons to move.

True they are not always filled with Neon gas, but they can be. So guess what, if the tube emits a red glow...it's still a Neon.

 

I wish that there is a way to replace those 2 skinny horizontal iron bars for the trunk lid. With that out of the way, I think the square cut-out in the middle of the rear deck can be removed and used as a port-thru for bass. Then just design a ported box, have it fire up into that square opening, and into the interior of the vehicle.

Another option would be to use the rear arm rest opening. Fabricate a port-thru panel. Then use a ported box, have it fire towards the fabricated port-thru panel in the rear seat then into the interior of the vehicle.

I wish I know how to make the box so I can do this myself.

 

I can see it now in the paper. "Man dies in fatal car crash after his chassis ripped itself apart." That gapping hole back there would really do wonders for the handling.

 

thats exactly what i had done to mine. it makes for some serious bass notes.
it ports up thru the top and thru the arm. it makes the one kicker rock hard. rest.http://members.cardomain.com/whoamax

 

Glad to see that someone has done it. And your car is still intact right? But wait are you porting thru the rear deck or the arm rest? Any more pics of your port thru set up from the rear seat looking into the sub box?

Not sure if Broaner was kidding but there are ways to reinforce things back there.

 

thanks damax unfortunatley it was vandalized a few weeks ago and they stripped the trunk clean. i dont have any pics of the port but from a physical description it was almost like a ported box in the trunk where the ports went to the old 6 1/2 holes up top and out the armrest with some insulation. i have been to a couple of meets and anybody can tell you the bass was insane but outside the car it sounded contained and no rattle just a wobbly roof when it hit low notes. right now im looking at 2L7 12 in and a arc 1000 watt amp to get me back on track.

 

Whooaaa!!! Just by description alone...it sounds insane. So you didn't have any rear fill, just the subs from the back? And the front separates?

 

I was only partly kidding.

 

what? rear fill. thats what they said to me when i asked them what should i put up top. the professional's dont use rear fill only if they have surround sound for dvd. for true soundstaging the speakers need to be up front and angled back, they say when you go to a concert are there people playing behind your head? no.the same applies for a stereo i have 2 very simple tweets that just melt into the music with out making you go deaf. people are very surprised when they get in my car because everything is crystal clear no distortion from tweeters and mids fighting with each other. between my alpine hu which has sounstaging and my elcetronic crossover i can pull the music to fit right in with the bass giving you that where is it coming from sound similar to like what bose did with the hugh woofer and tiny speakers that made you think it was all coming from them.

 

I was referring to rear fill as having mids and highs in the back for the rear passengers. With your set up, having only mids and highs upfront with proper imaging, can your passengers sitting behind you clearly hear the midrange and highs coming from your front speakers, not just drowning them back there with nothing but bass? Even aiming or angling the speakers back like you mentioned, it is great for the front passengers because nothing is blocking them from the speakers but their legs. Rear passangers however have the front seats obstructing the sound coming from the front speakers. How did your installer fix that?

 

Passengers? Who cares about passengers?! If they want some tunes they can drive their own car!!!

Tony

 

True....true, except when your parents want to ride in your car and want to listen to the radio. Uh--oh!

 

when you sit in the backseat the mids and highs hit you perfect. there is no drowning of the bass and no distortion. i thought so at first that it wouldn't sound right but it does. man i use to love me some 4 way 6X9 pioneer in the deck but now dont miss them at all. my brother who has a max also has a decent set up with rear speakers and i blow him away, his next move is to eliminate his rear. you have to have some soundstaging ability to pull this off though to get those sounds to the rear with out bass muddle.the front speakers are angled to shoot across to the opposite rear passengers so they get a healthy dose of mids and highs. at least 30-40 org memebers has heard my system and maybe if someone else reads this can give thier input.

 

what up c max, yo dude that system is bumping hard. when i first heard it i couldnt believe the bass that thing made. you cant even tell there's no rear speakers even from the back the music just hits you where ever you sit. sorry to hear the system being stolen. but on a good note cant wait to hear the next system, good luck.

 

So you basically used custom speaker pods for the fronts and perhaps some outboard electronics to accomplish the staging part. That is sweet. New concept for me of course since i'm just an old school sound person, speakers on all corners of the car plus a sub! What do you recommend for electronics?

 

Here's a couple more since I had posted mine while it was still "in transition"...


My 12w6 had the foam surround seperate from the cone, so I replaced it with an Infinity (may go with 3ea 8w6's if I can find them after Xmas). Also pictured are my Quart MusiComps for the front's:


Here's a pic of the back prior to installation (a/d/s PH15 + 2ea Stinger 1fa caps):


Here's the box in the car I posted earlier. I need some additional pix I guess since I don't have any showing the Xover and such:



Writeup of the install may be seen here: http://www.win.net/~audtatious/audio.../maxaudio.html

 

looks good auditatious, im about to post mine. btw hows it sound?

 

yes thats it. as long as the speakers are angled the sound will travel through the car. im using the alpine hu which has sounstaging capabilities and a kenwood electronic crossover. these things dont have to be electronic but takes more to tune them. a lot of pros dont use electronics either i do because i need to tune on demand, they say it introduces noise to the system. if your going to get electronics make sure its a higher end product for less noise EX: alpine, kenwood, zapco etc.

 

It's not too bad. The PAR-225 really helps get over the limitations imposed via the factory headunit.

 

I think more and more h/u's are coming out with some sound staging capability built-in. The Pioneer DEH-P6600 that I just picked up a few weeks ago comes with what's called Sound Focus EQ which does pretty much the same thing. So I guess I can't get away with pre-fabbed speaker pods like Q-Logic (if there's one for the Maxima), or can I?

 

Q-logic doesnt make one for our cars. they say because of the bose system
they dont mess with its set up. where i get my work done they make custom Q-logic for our cars, thats the best route to go if your going soundstaging.plus you have to get seperates if you want true seperation because when you turn up the music you want each speaker doing what is was meant to do and not distort. A 4 way speaker will get you close but once distortion sets in you cant fine tune it out.

 

I know we're sorta moving off-topic now, sorry guys!

Right now I have the Infinity Kappa Perfects 6.5" component sets for the front. I haven't tapped its full potential yet, since I'm only giving it 50w of power. If I'm pushing it with around 150 watts and proper imaging, will this be enough to fill the listening area w/o getting drowned out by the subwoofers? The Perfects peak at 400watts, 100watts RMS.

 

those are exactly what i had in front till they stole em. those are perfect you can even tilt the tweeter if you had to. its funny im thinking back in the day when i had rear fill no doubt they sounded good but the rear passengers would get out and couldnt hear a thing with all the treble and mids they got hit with. its very comforting when you have a warm bass behind you with hgihs and mids coming from around you instead of hitting you in the ear drum. were around the same age so you def know the difference between loud and listenable.

 

Sweeet!!! Now all I need is good imaging (custom pods) and good amplification. What did you use to power your mids and highs? I'm going for more clarity now than insane bass although I still want the bass to hit nice and deep. As for bass, I'm planning on a port thru config using the rear stock speaker locations for porting. Maybe I'll try and get a box made for my JL15w3.

 

i had a zapco 4 channel amp 300 watts. but now i just picked up a alpine V power series 300 watt 4 channel. havent installed it yet but it should do the trick. any good amp with a clean power supply and low distortion should do the trick. with the JL15w3 that is plenty of bass and once you port them thru the top that bass will be smooth and sweet. if you havent did it yet try a little dynomat or other sounproofing to help seal the trunk for maximum bass response it makes a big difference.

 

I ordered a Fatmat trunk kit so I'll be doing that when it arrives. The only issue I see is the 2 iron rods that run horizontal below the rear deck. Just don't know how I'm going to set up the port thru.

 

Oh come on Igor there a ton of people that have awesome trunk setups. I think mine is pretty good for doing it myself with little to no knowledge of any trick or tips other people use.

 

Personally, I think you did an awesome job building your own trunk from zero experience!!! I wish I can do that but I don't have 3 important things: time, tools, and a work area (being that I live in a condo w/o my own garage). Anyhow, I got this idea in my head for a trunk set up but I have no woodworking skills so I'll be in the mercies of pricey audio shops.

BTW, I'm going to be using the Fatmat as well. I noticed you used it in your trunk, how was it to install? How do you like it so far?

 

Well the install was a beetch because of all the knooks and crannies. It doesn't stick as well as dynamat but costs a fraction of the price. I just had to go around and make sure I rolled it down real good before moving on to the next section. I'm completely satisfied with it.

As for the audio setup....... I'm pretty good with building things and have just about every tool. The huge garage is also a plus.

 

Ever thought of maybe doing some basic box building for us here?

 

Ay AL, I'm lovin your setup. I think it's real nice and clean, nuttin crazy of course but definately a beautiful setup as well as still having the ability to carry the spare! I think I might have to take your setup and do a couple different things and tweaks of my own, but thanks for the write up and pics on your page. Great job!

 

You might want to turn that image into a link instead so that the photos don't take forever to load. Nice setup, simple too!

 

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnation/images/712_9.jpg
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnati...ges/712_11.jpg

I can't view either of them. Can you re-host them fer me?

 

I think the webserver doensn't like being linked or something. You should create a cardomain account (free) and upload your photos there. Or you can go here: http://www.imageshack.us/

 

i just picked up some more goodies to begin my install. i took a chance on this amp i heard good things so i will see. its the kenwood excelon kac 811 D 1000 watts into 2 0hm mono bass amp and 2 10 L7 kickers, and a custom ported thru the arm rest subclosure. i hope it sounds just as good or better than my old set up.

 

currently
-AUDIOBAHN 1 Farad Capacitor/Accessory Rack In Spare Tire Well/Covered In Plexiglas.
-Chrome APC Fire Extinguisher/Accessory Rack In Spare Tire Well/Covered In Plexiglas.
-Chrome AUDIOBAHN Bass Driver/Trunk/Remote ****/Center Console.
-2 QUEST 10" Blue Neon Music Interface Accent Tubes/Accessory Rack In Spare Tire Well/Covered In Plexiglas.
-MA AUDIO HC2501 High Current Subwoofer Amplifier/Subwoofer Enclosure.
-TEAM LSR-LOUD STREET RIDES/SUB-SONIC INNOVATIONS Subwoofer Enclosure/Single Chamber/Rectangle Port/45Hz/2.75 Cubic Feet.
-TREO ENGINEERING STREET SERIES IMPROVED DVC 2OHM 12” Subwoofer.
-LEGACY 7.2" TV Monitor/Trunk Lid.
-Black Trunk Liner Carpet.
-Black Dyed Trunk Panels.
-Accessory Rack In Spare Tire Well Covered In Plexiglas.





but I'm working on this...
Work In Progress.....
-TEAM LSR-LOUD STREET RIDES/SUB-SONIC INNOVATIONS Fiberglas Subwoofer Enclosure/Painted Metallic Silver/Raised JL AUDIO Logo/2.50 Cubic Feet/Slide Out Amp Rack/Painted Gloss Black.
-2 JL AUDIO 10w3 10" Subwoofers.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=361650

 

haha cant wait to see the fiberglas will

 

Yeah, what he said X3