Help with Car Audio
#42
so basically to sum up for now what i have to do is upgrade my big 3 to 0 guage and also upgrade the power wire running back to my amps and caps to 0 guage as well? is changing the battery necessary right now or should i just do the wiring first?
#43
If you've got a good battery now, it shouldn't be required..
also when you upgrade the cabling, go to a welding supply store or an industrial cable supplier... I paid $1.10 a foot for my 1/0 power and ground cables from a place called Industrial Cable & Supply in Tulsa, OK.
don't let tweeter charge you $15 a foot for their stuff. just insane markup and the quality of wire is the same.
also when you upgrade the cabling, go to a welding supply store or an industrial cable supplier... I paid $1.10 a foot for my 1/0 power and ground cables from a place called Industrial Cable & Supply in Tulsa, OK.
don't let tweeter charge you $15 a foot for their stuff. just insane markup and the quality of wire is the same.
#45
Originally Posted by TriniRicanPapi
so i wouldn't need to upgrade the ground going from the amp to the trunk?
#46
i talked to someone over at Trenton Generator and Starter and they don't recommend getting an optima battery, i'm not sure why. does anyone else care to comment on whether its better to have an optima or not?
#47
Originally Posted by TriniRicanPapi
i talked to someone over at Trenton Generator and Starter and they don't recommend getting an optima battery, i'm not sure why. does anyone else care to comment on whether its better to have an optima or not?
Maybe he just wanted you to buy a new alternator? I would love to hear his reasoning though if you go back.
#51
but i think i figured out what the problem was. i mean he did move around the battery today and ever since i've been blasting my bass as hard as i can and no clipping. i guess that connection to the battery was either a little loose or that oxidization on the terminals was causing a bad connection. but in any case it seems that the problem is solved hopefully i can get that connection tightened up. is there any way i can protect those terminals from getting that oxidization build-up?
#57
I have a problem, I had this guy upgrade my big three and he grounded my battery to both the chassis and the engine block, isn't it supposed to be from the battery to the chassis and then from the chassis to the engine block or does that not make a difference?
#58
Update
Hey Everyone,
I updated my big three to 0 guage, ran 0 guage going back, and got an optima yellow top battery. It helped but still not good enough, amp still cutting out on high volumes. I guess this means my only option would be to upgrade the alternator. Anyone on here a dealer that can offer me a good deal on an alternator?
I updated my big three to 0 guage, ran 0 guage going back, and got an optima yellow top battery. It helped but still not good enough, amp still cutting out on high volumes. I guess this means my only option would be to upgrade the alternator. Anyone on here a dealer that can offer me a good deal on an alternator?
#59
I would venture to say that the amp might be the problem, not the alternator. If the alternator was the problem the car itself would have major problems too, i would think. If it is the stock alternator then it may need replaced with a heavier duty one.
#60
I run the two amps in my sig off of a single 4 gauge wire....both older RF's that are supposedly power hungry. They both share a 60 amp fuse at the battery and it has never blown! They are both rated at 60 amps each and I'm running the 800.2 at 4 ohm mono and the punch at 2 ohm stereo. They are pretty conservitavely rated at 1200 wrms at this configuration but at full tilt my lights barely dim at all. I have no big 3 or caps or any of that. Either these JL's are really power hungry I would suspect that there is a problem with your install. Maybe your alternator is about to give up the ghost?
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