Speebs

iTrader: (2)

I asked this in a thread in the Parts Forum, but this is a more appropriate place for it:

What would one have to do to use the stock Bose speakers in a non-bose max with an aftermarket HU (Blaupunkt Alaska)?? I got a used '95 GXE a few years back and I'd like just a little more clarity/bass for cheap. If this can be done cheaply and easily, I'd like to just buy someone's stock Bose speakers and pop them in.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Speebs

Whitemax

OK, in order to use an aftermarket HU with Bose speakers, a line converter must be used. It connects between the HU and the speakers converting the normal signal levels to a very low ohm ( 1 half ohm) that the Bose uses. They are around $50, and most stereo shops either carry them, or can get them. The problem is with getting the Bose speakers connected. Too much of a PITA. You would be better off to just get a good set of speakers upfront.

Speebs

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. I'm totally new to this, so would you mind just briefly explaining what's needed to install aftermarket speakers, maybe tell me some good quality (but not really expensive) brands? That would be excellent.

Thanks!

Whitemax

replacing speakers isn't hard. Biggest task is removing the door panel, and that's no major ordeal. There are alot of good brands out there, it really depends on what kind of sound you want, and the price range you're looking for. Take a look at the post "can I build a system for $500?" I listed some brands I've used, and are good for the money. If you want something a little better go to www.zalytron.com They have Focal speakers for $100 a pair. Focal is better than most all other brands out there, and this company has great closeout pricing.....

Speebs

iTrader: (2)

Is there a lot of wiring to be done?

Whitemax

Well, since you don't have the Bose from the factory, if all you're going to do is run the speakers from the HU, then the factory wiring is fine. If you're planning on running the speakers off an amp, yes, you do have to do more wiring, but it's still pretty straight forward.

OgreDave

iTrader: (1)

ive been wondering.. what kinda funny noises will you get if you use aftermarket hu on bose speakers? i was just crimpin my harness.. didnt know if should even bother crimpin F/R L/R ..(did anyways)

Speebs

iTrader: (2)

I have little money and little demand for big sound.. so I'd just be using the factory wiring and swapping speakers (if it's easy), no amp. What would be involved in switching the speakers, including the sub under the seat, if I were to do this? You've already mentioned getting the BOSE converter thing for the HU to deal with the speakers' amplifiers, but what does the actual swapping entail?

The reason I'm interested in BOSE speakers is because I don't need AWESOME sound, just decent sound, and I figure I can probably buy some BOSE speakers from someone who's upgrading and get them relatively cheap.

Whitemax

If you're still talking about going the Bose route, then you have to run a power wire for each Bose speakers(each with it's own built in amp)4 total, as well as a ground wire for each. then you have to run a signal wire from the Converter to the speaker(Probably can use the factory wiring(don't know about the connectors on the ends though). Problem that could happen here is if you aren't careful, engine noise picked up by the power wire could end up getting into the amp, and you get engine whine. So in the end, it really would be alot of headaches and what-ifs invloved, and I'm not sure if that's worth it. If your getting the Bose speakers for free, then I say go for it. If you would have to pay for them, you would be much better off in the long run getting a good set of 6.5" speakers for up front. If you want more bass than that, then get the $25 Ultimate sub from Parts Express and an inexpensive amp to run it and the 6.5"s. The Soundstream P203 is perfect for it. 3 channels, built in x-over. 35x2 for the front speakers, 70 for the sub. Best of all it's only $89.
http://www.soundcity.com/bin/product...roduct_id=2549
You could get away with all 3 items for pretty cheap if you get the $50 Clarion 6.5". When you figure the cost of a set of used Bose, and the converter (I think around $50) combined with the ease of install over the Bose, you come out to around the same.

Speebs

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much for all the information. I will buy new 6.5" speakers for the front and an amp and sub. Now, how difficult is installation?

Whitemax

That's pretty easy. Toughest part is running the power cable from the battery through the firewall. With the size of like the P203, you can place it under the passenger seat, making wire runs alot shorter, but placing it in the trunk means you don't have to pull out the seat. A basic instruction is this.
1) Route power cable ( 8ga.) from engine bay, though firewall, either though an existing rubber boot, or by drilling a hole. Don't connect it to the battery yet!!!
2) run power wire down the drivers side of the car, under the carpet. the plastic door sils just snap out. Removing the seat, while more time consuming, will allow you to place it farther away from the speaker wire which will be run later, but is not required.
3) Remove back seat bottom, by pulling the 2 rings located in the front of the seat. run power wire into the trunk and towards the location in the trunk you plan on mounting the amp.
If you plan on running the front speakers off the amp, do as follows.:
4)Make 2 equal length runs of speaker wire (around 25ft each) and run one on each side of the car, under the capet, and into the trunk. At the door end, pull off the plastic kick panels. Use a straightened coat hanger and with the door open, pop the rubber boot the wires go through out of the hole.make a small hole in the boot, careful not to damage any wires run though it. Slip the coat hanger through the hole into the car. once you see the hanger end in the cabin, use some masking tape and secure the speaker wire to it. Once it is, pull the hanger out, and the wire will feed itself through the hole. Then feed the wire though the boot in the door. Note it sounds harder than it is. Once you do it, you'll see what I mean.
5) To install the speakers in the door, remove the door panel. Remove the screw located in the handle cup, 2 screws at the bottom of the door, the little light that comes on when the door is open, and the plastic cup for the door release. Use a screwdriver to pop the fasteners out if they are attatched.Once the panel is off, remove the factory speaker, and if using an amp to power the new ones, tape off the factory wire ends. pull the new wire though and attach to the new speaker. Attach the speaker to the mount and reassemble the door panel. Do for both sides.
6)run the RCA cables and remote lead wire from the back of the HU to the trunk, keeping them away from each other as much as possible. By doing so, you help heep engine noise out of the system. Once the power wire, RCA, remote and speaker wires are all in the trunk, connect them and the ground wire to the amp. Mount the amp where you prefer. Connect the other end of the ground wire to bare metal with a screw. Connect the sub wire to the sub at this time.
7) Cut the power wire within 18" of the battery, and connect the inline fuse holder with out fuse to the wire. Connect Wire to the battery, and install the fuse. Turn on the stereo, and confirm that it's working propery.
Sorry for the long windedness, but it's not that hard once you get to doing it. You're more than welcome to call me at home and I can answer any questions you have or walk you though anything while you're doing the install. Just PM me for my home number if you do.

Speebs

iTrader: (2)

This project probably won't start for a while due to my busy schedule, but thanks for all the info! It definitely sounds useful. I may even take you up on your offer to help me out over the phone, should I have any issues.

Thanks again, and you really should get some sleep some time



Speebs