Looks good.

Personally I would have picked a darker color for the carpet.

 

for the baffle or the whole box?

i tried to tap the knowledge of the audio section, but know buddy had anything to say about gettin the right color carpet.

so this is what i went with it works for my purpose but in the future i wanna try some different carpet cuz this stuff is sort of hard to work with

 

Isn't the baffle and rest of the box the same colored carpet?

know buddy? do you mean nobody?

What kind of carpet did you use?

 

shoulda asked me trav, i go to keystone bro's off of 45 near 610. they got a crapload of carpet in a bunch of colors.

 

alright man well for the next box we will be in touch

i may put the icons in a sealed box so i can get some trunk space back, but that is pretty far down the road

 

Nice Job on the deadening all round. I just finished most of mine about 2 months ago. Spent a week on the entire floor (whole interior out), and another week on the front 2 doors. What i find really useful is to have the amps and deck in temporarily, then with an AUX in (or CD If that's your only source), use a signal generator to go through sweeps with your midbasses blasting. You can find a lot of rattles that way. I did it first without the door panel on (which was actually pretty good for rattles), and then again with the deadened panel on (which had more rattles to rid).

This is my first post in the Audio section, but i was happy to see a 4th gen with a very similar setup to mine.

I'm running the 880prs, Seas 27TAFNC/D (neo's), B&C 6NDL38 (7" midbasses...B&C is a pro-audio brand, so they are high efficiency, but also high excursion (5.5mm), and high power handling and my favorite of all...very high output.)
As for subs, currently running a Dayton 10" Reference HF in 1.1cu ft.
Amps - Xtant A2002 (tweets), Xtant 4.4 (bridged to midbass), Avionixx Axt1200.2 (highly recommended budget amp buy. 1500rms @ `14v @ 4 ohms, and only $129.99 on ebay...on final clearout. 3-4 years ago, they were $250ish+ and were still a good deal. Class T design and very clean.

Anyways, I shoudl get an install thread on my setup going i think. My only other plus in my setup is i did custom A-pillars for the tweets (fully molded all together..they're loookin good ).

Good luck on the rest of the install!

 

ya i would be interested in seeing ur log

 

no homo.

 

 

build log that is...

 

now for some steps in the right direction
new rcas ran(no whine ) and ipod connected up

test setup lol

remote wire(extra stuff i had lying around)

more pics to come in the morning

 

now for the 1/0 being ran underneath the car



grommet the wire will come through

wires in

 

the wire in the loom under the car



battery with its new 1/0 friends

 

now for the temp setup in the trunk with the 100.4 so i have some tunes
till i get the box in.

 

all i'm sayin is can i get some shop time? need some woodworkin' sucka.

 

its my friends shop so i would have to talk to him and there aint much wood work goin on in this shop where i did the wiring. but we could probably get some stuff worked out for ya

 

Underneath the car? Seriously?

And they ran ground the entire length of the car too?

 

If you bottom out those wires could get scraped and cut, could be some fireworks

 

ya the ground all the way to back i know its overkill just wanted to have a real solid ground.

and yes im aware of bottoming out, my car isnt dropped or anything, so im not real worried about it i will keep an eye on my wiring.

i am double fusing the positive run, to avoid a fireworks show if it happens to short out

 

oh and the real reason i brought the negative to the back cuz i will be running a second battery

 

A more solid ground would have been to ground it to the sheet metal in your trunk. It all goes back to the same place anyway.

Double fusing is absolutely unnecessary unless you expect something to go wrong in between your battery and your first fuse... ~15 inches? I think not. Once a short occurs, you want the power cut as close to the battery as possible. Think about it logically.

 

since i was going to run 2 batteries i thought having a fuse ~15" from starter battery then ~15" from battery in trunk

 

The body probably has more resistance than the wires he ran.

 

not if he grounded directly to the frame rails or any other solid piece of metal in the trunk. the difference might be negligible.

trav i'm jealous of that workspace you got there.

 

double fusing is completely necessary since there is a hot in the trunk as well as underhood. suppose something happens between the underhood fuse and the rear battery. without being double fused the front fuse will blow but you will have a hot wire from the rear battery up. a fuse as close to the front battery + and one as close to the rear battery + as possible is the right way to do it.

i've asked about running a ground back up to the battery as well. some say it doesn't make a difference and some say it does (although it may be negligible). i researched a little on ground loops and came to the conclusion that it's probably a good idea because of al the bcu's grounded to the chassis in the 4th gen. one thing is for sure though; a sheet metal ground is not more solid. it is as solid at best.

 

I was under the assumption only one battery was being used.

Reading >>me.

 

had a feeling there was a misunderstanding. you're in the audio section way to much to not know what you are talking about.

 

exactly

thanks mike

and im glad everybody is on the same page now

 

ya its my buddies shop. very nice to have a big solid slab of concrete, and plenty of tools at my disposal

 

first lets start with the box modifications



battery box

 

more battery box



deadened the trunk lid

new terminals(screw my terminal cup)

 

finished product




sry about the big pictures photobucket is being gay

 

Wow, I like the lattice-work of your ceiling!!!

Anyways, very impressive custom build. How's it sound so far?

Dr J

 

Impressive indeed. Also curious about the sound. I've got a mad hankerin to go 2-way active this summer and wanna know how it sounds compared to a standard bridged setup. I'm thinking my system can sound a heckuva lot better if I go active but I wonder if my current amp has enough ***** to make it worth it (75 x 4)

I see that your tweets are getting 100w, what are your mids getting a piece?

 

the 2 way is definately very nice.

i can control the range of frequencys the speakers see. The pioneer 880 has the abilitys to control the crossover points without messing with the amps.
the tweets are probably seeing in the range of ~30watts, the gain is about 1/3 on those guys.

and my mids are seeing close to 100W i have the gain almost maxed out. I hope to soon be running the mids bridged on the 4 channel and put the tweets on a smaller amp.

 

Aye. My Eclipse has the same capability so I'm gravy in that department...good news then...sounds like 75 watts to each might do alright after all too. Nice.

Now I just gotta figure out how to do it.

 

you do know i have to hear this right?

 

of course man

might be able to come to your neck of the woods this weekend

 

it was pretty easy for me.

got alot of info form soundsolutionsaudio.com

i pretty much have the same setup as one of the guys on the forum.

my mids are 8ohm so they need more power, thats y i wanna bridge them