maximamaybe

IFirts let me say that I did a search and found stuff for 2K1. Is it the same setup? It sounds different than the 2k2 bose. I am wanting to go pretty inexpensive here, but I definately need more bass than the stock Bose is giving me. How good is the Sony XPlod amps? I have always been a fan of JL subs so I might do 1 JL 12W3. How much wattage should I need?

Thanks in advance.

Nathan

mikemusica

Since you want to go the inexpensive route i would say go with the Xplod amp but mixing an Xplod amp and JL subs doesn't mix. Those W6's require some good s**t. Use the Xplod but don't use W6's. Think of gettin some lower model subs. Pioneer perhaps (I hear they make a pretty good sub for the price).

Use W6's but don't use the Xplod amp. I suggest Kicker's 600.1. Very good for the price. It's your choice man but I would suggest spending a little more and getting a system that will perform under pressure.

-Mike

maximamaybe

So has nobody ever installed just an am and a sub to the factory Bose? I talked to a local car audio place in Garland and they said that I would need 2 PAC converters to convert from line level to RCA. He said I would need that because they can only handle 25 watts a peice and the Bose puts out 50. Is this true? I read a post about the 2K1 Bose that said you can use the wire before the amps and convert that into an RCA cable. Any ideas?

Goss50

maximamaybe,
did you install the amp/sub? I am looking into getting this done as well and want to know if you did it yourself or had it done? How does it sound? What did you get? Etc??????

Goss50

maximamaybe

No I have not installed it yet. I am looking for advice first. I would like some one else tell me hou it sounds first. I just like the Bose head unit, therefore I don't want to replace it. I just want some more Bass.

studman

Ok, call or surf over to http://www.tune-town.com/. You need 3 pieces... totalling $100 (including overnight shipping). All are made by PAC.

ADD-NIS2
AMP-RCA
OEM-1

That will give you 4 preamp outs on the back of the headunit, without cutting/splicing/modifing/etc your factory wiring. Then go find an amp - JBL, RF, etc - and a pair of subs - JBL, Pioneer, RF, Kicker, etc - and buy those. Prices vary based on wattage and size.

Then go by an amp wiring kit from your local Best Buy/Circuit City/Internet Retailer($50-100).

Then buy some shielded RCA wires (16 ft. long) from the same places ($50).

Wire it all up, enjoy.

And BTW... I have a RF 700S with 2 Pioneer TS-W3041DVC 12" Subs. And it RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRocks!!!!

Need more info, send PM/email.

maximamaybe

That is great news to me. Do you notice any distortion with it? Does it overpower your stock Bose speakers? If I did it mywelf, Is the adapter plugged in near the radio or near the amp? Thanks for the reply.

Nathan

studman

That is great news to me. Do you notice any distortion with it? Does it overpower your stock Bose speakers? If I did it mywelf, Is the adapter plugged in near the radio or near the amp? Thanks for the reply.

No distortion. The convertor doesn't overpower the speakers, it only produces a line-level RCA signal for use with an aftermarket amp. It plugs in directly behind the HU. You can definitely do it yourself. On my setup, my subs way-over-power the stock amp, as well as the speakers, but the gain on the amp is adjustable to your liking. Once you get it all installed, search the .org for instructions on tuning your system. That will help you get it setup to where it sounds nice.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

I have a 95 Maxima with a Bose system. The Bose HU's cd player is no longer operational so I installed a Pioneer HU with a built-in sub pre-out. I used a Peripheral line level adapter to wire up the Bose speakers to the HU, which sounds really great! Now I want to add a sub. I am going to use the HU's sub pre-out and take advantage of the HU's low pass active filter, it also has settings for bass cut-offs and level. I'm thinking of using a 15" JL Audio W3 sub that I used to have in my pick up along with the JL Audio 500/1 (was also in my pick-up before). I'm having a custom box built that'll go behind the rear passenger seat. Now I know that my sub configuration might be a little over kill. But I'm going to tune it way down so that it doesn't drown out the Bose speakers? Do you guys think that this combo would be doable?

maximamaybe

My kicker 12 on a 300 watt amp will over power the Bose speakes. Luckily your amp has a remote gain. Just crank it down at low volues and bost it up when you are wanting to pound.

indeep

can someone show how to add the subs n amp for the 99 maxima

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Start reading. The information is all around you, including about 5 posts up!

ressling

iTrader: (1)

could you do these conversions on a 2k3 as well? i'm in a similar situation... want to keep the stock HU and get new speakers w/ an amp for better output

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Yes, read the stickies.
If you're Bose, you can splice your RCA's into the bose preouts behind the headunits.

indeep

any pics that show step by step what too do and how to remove the bose head unit?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Again,

Please read the Stickies and FAQ's.

clive

Yes.
OK, you said you wanted low cost. The Bose amp converts the bal input to unbal output, just that the level is far too high. Need an attenuator. Let's design one. From the speaker live terminal, put a 4K7 1/4W resistor in series and, following that, connect a 1K resistor to ground. Take the output across the 1K resistor, each side, via a screened cable to something like a Nakamichi 200 Watt sub amp with built-in crossover. My son recently picked one up used for $30.
Run the output to a 10" Kickass or other high-power low cost (rubber cone surround) Chinese or whatever driver, and mount it in a baffle behind the centre armrest cutout in the rear seat.
Total cost will be well under $100 and I'm certain you will like the results.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Too electrical.

Splice female RCA's into the preouts coming out of your Bose head Unit, OR, the inputs going into your bose amp (same signal and wires either way)

There is your signal for your amp. Line level. Done.

ZGadson

I've got a question about my woofer...

I'm using the stock Bose system (in my 02 I35), but I've got my own seperate amp and woofer because the Bose woofer didn't have quite the umph I was looking for. I've got a JBL amp (with audio input spliced from the rear speaker wires at the Bose amp) and an Infinity woofer, but I've been having issues with the volume level of the woofer. Bose systems have a speaker saver function that turns the bass down as volume goes up. In this case, it nearly turns the woofer off when I have the volume up past 20.

I've searched, but couldn't find any remodies. Anyone got any suggestions?

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Holy **** this thread is 5 years old!!!!!


Best remedy for that would be to replace the bose system altogether, OR to tap the wires BEFORE they go into the bose amp.

ZGadson

Is it the Bose amp that adjusts bass levels or is it the head unit?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Head unit.

ZGadson

In that case, there's no possible way around the volume leveling while using a Bose system?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Get an aftermarket head unit. That will solve MANY issues.

BenKruise

Well I have just recently done this upgrade, and I will tell you it's all up to you. It depends on what U want and the money you want to spend. I used a regular LOC and tapped it to my speaker wires on my factory amp. That gave me my signal for my RCA's. I tapped my remote turn on wire from the factory sub also. I have 2 Memphis PR15's and a MTX ThunderSeries 4501 Mono amp and everything else is factory Bose. My system sounds Great and Everyone who has heard it thinks the same.


Here is a link to what I went thru askin the same Question...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=533442

Not saying that what everyone else is telling you to do is wrong(cause it all works) This is the way I went and I have a great sound...
I also have new pics of my cleaner install that I will post soon...